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Andrew.... Tuning the carbs should present no problem as the procedure is the same in any case. However, proper valve clearances are another matter altogether. You must get in touch with the old owner and find out about this camshaft. You want to know exactly where the valve clearances should be set although there are generalities for the factory cams....but, is it a factory cam? On some non-factory cams, the clearances are different for intake and exhaust valves. There are more than just a few "fast road" cams available for these engines. No sense going into camshaft profiles, lift... MORE
OR, Brian... You could buy mine which is still in good shape and suitable for rechroming. Only $100 plus shipping which is pretty minimal considering you're only across the "little pond". I am having another old one (pitted like yours) "cut down" and black powder coated, using the grille portion only in the air intake....no upper chrome piece. And those "unsightly" seams between the bonnet and front valance will go as well. Got rust coming through one of them so as long as I've gotta do one, might as well do them both and be done with it. You... MORE
There should be an "L" if it's an export car. Sometimes they are stamped very lightly. You may need to reflect light from different angles to see it. If the plate is in very good condition, someone might have reproduced it. Given the level of restoration, that is very possible. One of my Bugeyes is 42xxx something and it was also reg'd as a '59. My plate was missing however and I got a BMIHT certificate to find out my chassis number. Mine was MFG in late June 1960. There are other ways to confirm your number. Write em... MORE
Lousy luck, Jim...however... ....it is tiny and "soft" and if you cannot hear it rattling around.....? I'd be pretty inclined to go with Gerard's post. The thing is, the warranty would be null and void if you went to the engine builder with this. Yet, if you are gonna sleep nights and not worry about this, pulling the head (or finding it around on the floor) seems like the way to go (I know you hate to do this...not one of us would feel any differently in your shoes in this respect) but, everything is "new" so this shouldn't... MORE
Welscome, DEW.... This IS a beautiful car and I wish you the very best with it and much enjoyment! :) Finally got a decent day here in Stamford, CT. and will get to drive my own Leaf Green Frog today....what a lousy Spring it has been thus far...brutal!! The VIN is located in the engine compartment, driver's side, looking down to a diagonal "frame member" by the steering wheel shaft forward of the Master Cylinder just prior to the rear carb between it and the firewall. It's a little aluminum & black plate. Cap'n. Bob '60 :{) PilotRob@... 6729... MORE
Per David Anton's (APT) suggestion ( & per Vizard's book) I had cut off the overrun valve on the throttle disc & soldered (obviously not well enough) the remaining valve disc (bronze, about 3/8" dia) to plug the hole in the throttle disc. THE VALVE DISC IS MISSING after running engine for first time yesterday. The engine only ran for a few seconds several times; it idled extremely fast then would stop if let up on choke or throttle. Eliminated all causes except the carb - a single HIF6 SU. After removing the SU today to tune it, I... MORE
List/members, Update regarding the wheel cap stickers. After nearly four months, the final product is of good enough quality to be offered to other car members. There was a lot of fine-tuning to get them to this level. This venture was only possible by John Cunningham inquiring if something like this is possible to produce. Since the only thing that was available over the shelf, came in as "AH" format, the challenge was on. Fellow co-workers did a splendid job of making this into a reality. Thanks to several members for their kind input. These wheel cap stickers are... MORE
All My car is at the body shop being painted. It was primrose yellow when new but when I got the car, it had been stripped and there was no color left anywhere to speak of. The books I have say that the code for this color is "YL3", but that is not a code that my body man or his paint supplier recognize. Does anyone on the list have a modern code for a color that would be close to the original, or know where I might find such a code ? Thanks Michel Richard "scrapyard_ca" 6673... MORE
"Imperial Chemical Industries" Do websearch on "ICI Paint Codes", Michel. :) Cap'n. Bob '60 :{) PilotRob@... 6679... MORE
Michel I had success using a paint product where the supplier could contact the manufacturer's national headquarters for a code. You may find that there's a YL03 and not a YL3 in their records, though. (I was matching red, so YMMV.) I also emailed the various manufacturers myself and some of them responded with what they thought were modern code equivalents - not the case, though. I can't recall the name of the product that I used, but I can find it if you wish. Geoff Muttart gmuttart@... Nova Scotia, Canada AH 'Bugeye' Sprite AN5 PS I'll look for... MORE
I have a number of cars partially painted and the matching that my painter does is absolutely amazing. Utilizing the latest computer matching techniques, they can match/blend paint on cars that have been painted many years ago and you can't even tell that there has been paint work. Primrose yellow was a common British color used on MGB's, XKE's and others. If you know someone who has the color yellow that you like, you might consider having a good paint/body shop "take the color" off of their car. Sometimes, seeing the color on an actual car can go a... MORE
Thanks to Marcus, Willy & Bob for their responses & suggestions. Problems fixed (more or less)!! Brown wire to ignition switch was problem, reconnected properly & had power! Of course, wipers ran all time,... but no headlamps or sidelights (parking lights), no panel lites, no turn indicator warning light & only righthand turn signals worked!! Have now solved everything except turn signal. Wiper switch installed per Haynes wiring diagram for MK2 Sprite (switches, wiring & instructments mostly from Mk2 parts car). Reversed the wire locations on wiper switch, wiper now turn on/off properly (was this because I reversed ground... MORE
Bob, My computer has been acting up and died tonite when I got home from a day spent working on 1 of my opel Gt's. I'm using my son's laptop- great toy.- Anyway I was wondering who on the list is going to the import/kit show at Carlisle in May. I also understand there is a sprite or AH get togethether in May in NJ just before Carlisle. If any has more info on the NJ meet please post details. I hope to meet some of you folks at one of these events. I stay at the Motel 6... MORE
I need some help... My bugeye always had poor braking power and brake bias was always STRONGLY to the rear. Toward the end of last year I also had problems building brake pressure - I had to pump the peddle to the floor once before actually using it. I have just replaced the front drums with discs (along with tube shock conversions all around and a front sway bar). I still have both braking problems I had before - bias toward the rear and I have to pump the peddle several times before I brake (EVERY TIME I BRAKE).... MORE
Hi all Craig here on Long Island I have been trying to find a grille for my bugeye - thought I got one on ebay but have had bad luck- First the vendor - greg @ midwestern is fantastic- he has a great deal of integrity I was very impressed - he said he will have hundred of bugeye parts on ebay. Here's my story I bid on and won a grille had it sent to the Chromer - he had looked at it on ebay and quoted me -up to $250 I said ok and had them send... MORE
Hi Matt I must admit that in the picture you've put on the photo's page, the Ashley top does look good from that angle but take it from me (and apologies in advance to anyone who has one fitted) it really will make your Bugeye look like a Tadpole rather than a Frog. As mentioned by John, they will also scratch the rear deck of your sprite. If you must go for a hardtop (and I can't see why you'd need one) then go for a works style top which in my opinion really suits the lines of your... MORE
Larry... I admire your choice in the Walker bonnet. A very "clean" design which goes very nicely with the BE's original lines. In terms of appearance, IMHO it is one of the most attractive out there and there are plenty of good 5" headlites around to fit. Were anything to happen to my current stock (but "vented) steel BE bonnet, I would definitely replace it with the Walker by Speedwell.... www.speedwellengineering.com Cap'n. Bob '60 :{) PilotRob@... 6625... MORE
Matt Don't listen to these guys. I think it's bitchin', especially with that nose. Makes a great little coupe. I don't think it would look very good with the Bugeye nose. I'm actually thinking about combining it with the Walker bonnet on the Bugeye that I'm currently building. Remember it's your money and that John lives in an area where he rarely needs a top :-) and Gary's tag line says it all. Larry Miller http://www.ado13.com "Larry Miller" 6624... MORE
Hi guys, I've been part of the list for a while now but this is my first post. I added a folder (Matt's Sprites) of my bugeye's when I first signed up for the list but never got around to introducing myself. Anyway, I was looking for information on hardtops. I added a picture to my folder of a car with what was listed as an Ashley hardtop fitted. Does anyone know where I could find one or how much they usually sell for? I did find one similar on ebay a while back that I think sold for... MORE
Matt, I will send you (seperate E-mail) an add for a whole car with such a "fastback" hardtop. Buy the whole car for the top. But unless you are doing full time racing, or rain 100 percent of the time, why want one? It might be aerodynamic, but it's heavy, restrictive, reveals scratched paint when removed, and is in direct opposition to the roadster mentality. John Carey NG4SaleOTH@... 6618... MORE
I just picked up a used full size Bugeye tonneau cover (RED!). It needs a little cleaning, but is in pretty good shape ... except for missing eyelets & tenax fasteners. Holes seem okay, not stretched out. How difficult is it to install these fasteners myself? Any special tools required? Also, I expected the same type of full length steel bar as the hood (top) at the back to hook to the 2 retainers. But instead of a full length pocket at back, the tonneau has 2 small pockets (6" +/-) for separate bars (missing) to connect to retainers.... MORE
Hi Jim Yup, got it on the road the next day. It's a Kent 276 cam and lifters to replace a good cam gone bad. I suppose there is a lesson here for someone so I'll pass it on. It's my friends 1275 we built up last fall. A complete overhaul with new aluminum head and the same Kent cam. We broke in the cam as per the experts and was it sweet. Motor ran great and what a proud owner........He let it idle all the time so he could listen to it and let everyone else listen too.... MORE
Correcto, Richard... SOP on the cam break-in. Initial break'in starts with the cam and this is the reason you smeared the lobes with cam lube. Packing the oil pump with grease beforehand is a good idea. Turn the engine over first without the plugs to bring up and insure oil pressure needle will come off "0", otherwise. Limit this 'cause it's not good for the cam. Just 'til the needle moves off the peg. Install the plugs and fire it up, checking oil pressure immediatley. Go to 2k-3k or so and stay there for 15 minutes or so. Shut... MORE
Jim: Thanks, my system is also the Morriservice system and I have talked to Paul. Great guy, great service, he suggested a broomstick which I tried to shove up between the drive shaft and the tranny tunnel from the rear and then trying to move the car back and forth. Not much luck last night. Maybe I need to try something flat. Did you push the temporary shim through from the front or the back? Do you have the 7/8" bore or 1" bore slave? Is your pedal very stiff? I did put a spacer in between the throwout... MORE
Marcus and all: Gerard has already answered most of this modification issue, but I have also found that the clearance in the tranny tunnel needs some help from the BFH also since the propeller shaft scrapes at the universal joint. This has now become a somewhat difficult situation since the system is already in. I'll post a pic later with the exact area that needs clearance. Turns out the clutch is not a problem, except that it takes the leg of Hercules to disengage. So, sounds as if the next unpublished mod requirement is to go to the 1"... MORE
