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You've gotta love this one.A 1973 Midget that has been in storage for 20 years. One bid already for $500. The storage guys are now selling it, and some of their priceless gems include: 1) It runs but obviously will need a tune up. As it that's all it will need! 2) We did not drive the car and there is no fluid in the hydraulic clutch, but we were told the transmission, and brakes are OK. So please explain how you verified these bits were OK. 3) The only rust is where I am pointing in the photos,... MORE
Try www.griffinrad.com They can build you a custom aluminum radiator at reasonable cost. "joe blxfstz" 14994... MORE
Dear list, I will be fitting a 1275 within a year to my Bugeye Vintage racer (yes that's legal in the groups I race with). I feel I should improve the cooling system at the same time. There are some very expensive aluminum radiators from the specialty shops, but ISTR suggestions of some aluminum radiators from modern cars that make good swaps. I didn't find anything when I searched the archives, so hear is is again. What subsitutions have people tried that work well, don't take a lot of monkey buissness to fit and plumb and are cost effective?... MORE
To quote my friend Norm - it's either a feast of a famine So here's a Mk II Sprite fitted with small block Chev Corvette engine. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=3D1&item=3D4547 154080&category=3D6023 The eBay description reads: 1962 Austin Healey Sprite MKII. (Great restoration project) Hotrod convertible/Roadster. California car, clean body, blue metallic, The mileage on odometer reads 40,136 but is not the original odometer, exac t unknown. Equipped with rebuilt 1972 Corvette V8 Chevy small block 350, 4 bolt main. Engine has crane cam with roller rockers, 4 barrel Holly 650 double pumper dual feed carburetor with Edelbrock 4 barrel intake manifold. Comes... MORE
Group, I just joined this group a couple of weeks ago and my doctor gave me some bad news yesterday. I can't get in the bugeye with my bum pelvis and hip I injured in my head on collision. I guess it's got to go! It's rust free and runs like a bear. I have two extra engines complete from clutch to fan. Two extra trannys and a set of racing carbs. I have to digest the news and maybe think of some way of entering the car without messing up my future hip and pelvic transplant. It may... MORE
A UK gallon is 4.546 litres whereas the US is 3.785 litres. My understanding of the situation is that the US gallon is the old british wine measure and is 4/5 UK gallon. Both gallons have 4 quarts, as both have 8 pints although a british pint has 20 fluid ounces as opposed to the US having 16 fluid ounces. Just to make it worse the US fluid ounce is about 4% larger than the UK fluid ounce. Somewhere back in history the whole mess arose and ultimately everyone is likely to go metric as most except the US... MORE
Sorry Colin, Our kids only go to school 8 1/2 months a year on this side of the pond and a most of it is in being "Politically Correct", "non sexual discrimination", "Pro Teachers Union", "A Kennedy can do no wrong," etc, etc, etc. Reading, writing, and 'rithmatic are extra critical activities. The fact that a US Gallon is 4 quarts and an Imperial (as in United Kingdom) Gallon is 4 liters, and since they are teaching everything else, nobody can read when they grab the quart oil can that says it is only .9.... Liters. It's a good... MORE
There's an odd noise I can't identify coming from the back of the bugeye when the car is moving. Almost sounds like a muffled bag of tools bouncing around. It doesn't sound exactly metallic, but if you were ruling out sounds, you'd be left thinking that metal is responsible for the sound. It's not a click, grind, whine, rattle. Maybe a bit clunk-ish with a blanket thrown over it. It's repetitive... maybe 1-2 per second. My instinct says driveshaft related. Maybe u-joint? Or some slop somewhere? On to the stupid question you've all been waiting for... I want to... MORE
Speaking of Portland does anyone, besides the ones who live nearby, plan on going to the ABFM in Portland (first weekend in September) this summer? We plan on driving the Bugeye again this year, assuming it is not broken by then :-) We usually take two days up and two days back with the stopovers being in far northern California. Anybody interested in a caravan let me know and maybe we can hookup. My buddy Warren will co-drive the Bugeye and Sandi & Kathy will drive the emergency vehicle with tools and other spare parts, including a Bugeye towbar.... MORE
Remember the Auto Jumble on Sunday, April 24th in Portland Oregon. Sponsored by the Club T MG Held in the Montgomery Park parking structure at NW 27th & NW Vaughn. Lots of only British parts for all marques, along with Club information. Held rain or shine, Goodies and hot or cold drinks for sale at the Club T booth Setup time: 7:00 am to 9:00 am, sales from 9:00 until it's over. Lots of great bargains, drive on over and have some fun getting some goodies for your cars. Additional info at: Http://home.earthlink.net/~clubtmg Driving directions - From I-5 (North... MORE
Hello all; Just looking for some expert opinions. I purchased a 59 bugeye about 5 years ago from a neighbour who was downsizing with the intentions of doing what I had to in order to get it on the road. Prior to me buying the car it came off the road and sat in the neighbours garage for 12+ years. When I bought it I gassed it up, checked the fluids and started it with the first turn of the key. 3- 4 minutes later, the gas tank and water pump started leaking so I shut it off and... MORE
I should have specified, unfortunately I don't have an 11 stud 1275, this is a 9 stud 948 block and 5 studs go into the water jacket. Cheers 'Curt "cfisher1a" 14739... MORE
Hi List, I'm having a hard time sealing the cylinder head studs that go into the water jacket. I used Permatex teflon thread sealer, but can still see that the sealer has migrated out of the threads and under the gasket. Anyone have a product they like better? I want to avoid anything too permanent. Thanks for the advice from several on head gasket sealing! Cheers, Curt Fisher "cfisher1a" 14737... MORE
BTDT... Oh, I agree, but my horn didn't and doesn't work without the little ground wire I ran from the steering rack to the radiator support bracket. It looks like the steering column is not grounded to the steering tube, and the little fitting the steering column attaches to, is surrounded with a plastic seal/bearing and with the oil/grease in the rack, somehow isn't grounded. Bob, Troutdale, OR "Robert Webb" 14721... MORE
The "hot" wIre from the horn connects to the slip ring in the steering column plinth. the brush rubs against this slip ring and carries power to the horn btton which is the switch. When pressed, this completes the circuit to the steering shaft which is grounded through the steering rack. Check, steering wheel off, whether the slip ring is hot. Just jump it to the steering shaft and the horn should sound. "joe blxfstz" 14718... MORE
Is there a core charge for a new water pump? I doubt it, but thought I should ask before tossing two old, used ones. Thanks. Dave "ex_cmp_guy" 14701... MORE
OK Leroy! If you aren't a 97 lb weakling, just get it close. It's a little bitty engine. Now if it were a 454, that's a different story. Actually Leroy, I have mine on a stand right now, and if you are going to do to your engine, what I have done to mine, mounting it to the stand is the least of your worries. Try bolting on a new aluminum head, 1.50 roller rockers, adjustable belt drive, and find out that when each pushrod is off the cam lobe, it rubs up against the head!!!! AHHHH!!!!!!!! So all,... MORE
Yep.... going to $65+bbl shortly I'm sure. We'll see US3.00 gal. this summer and when it goes back down, it'll be US2.50+. Same for future years whether China's demand "flattens" or not....trust me on this!! :):) Cap'n Bob Basic Frog "Robert E. Shlafer" 14647... MORE
"On early crs with a steering rack grease nipple, inject SAE 90 hypoid gear oil with 10 strokes of a grease gun," "Clymer Sprite & MG Midger 1958-1979 Shop Manual,"page 17. And since ther rest of the car uses multipurpose grease, which is semi solid, I find the best way to keep the two seperate is to have seperate grease guns. The steering rack grease nipple is at the bottom of the car, with the nipple accesable only from the top which I find is not practial to just dump 90 weight in the general direction of the zert... MORE
I have started the rust repair on the bonnet of my '58 Bugeye. The rust damage is so bad that I am working blind and I am not sure quite how things should go together. I hope that one of the group members will be able to assist me. I have posted pics of the damage that I am working on at the following site: http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/higlree/album?.dir=2280&.src=ph You will see from the pics that I have no reference for the bottom lip of the bonnet nor do I have any real idea of how the radiator cowl integrates with the... MORE
Having a little problem with bugeye right that I can't get back to until next weekend, so I thought I would see if the lists have any suggestions beyond what I've done so far. Car was running perfectly at beginning of week. Drove it to work on Monday - ran great. Started out Tuesday morning, but turned back to house after a mile. Ran okay through neighborhood, seemed a little "off" but I just thought engine was still cold. But on highway I tried to accelerate hard, car ran up to about 2500-3000rpms, and would "stutter" - no power... MORE
Update: Tried the same routine this morning. Started the car in the garage, drove it out with out any problems. Car behaves as normal. All gears work flawlessly. Clutch feel and action normal as before. I let the car warm up and try to drive it. Nothing! Try it for several minutes. Still no go. Had someone look to see if the driveshaft is turning? Nope. Driveshaft is not turning. Clutch pedal feels as before, normal. I turn off the engine and let the car cool down for 5-10 minutes. This time I try to start the car while... MORE
1) sounds like the clutch cover is not engaging the driven plate fully. When warm, have someone watch the clutch lever at the trany and see if it is indeed moving properly as the pedal is depressed and released. 2) Low fluid? Check the brake fluid level and then try to bleed the slave cycl. or 3) with engine off put it in 1st and try to start it. warning if the clutch doesn't slip the care will move and try to leave. beready and be pointed away from anything hard!!! or soft either!! 4) while driving see if... MORE
Hi Bob, He has the original setup, with no adjuster. But, if it was working before, likely the slave is OK and the problem is in the clutch cover or disc. Could also be a broken axle, but that I doubt. Broken clutch covers will not always hold an engine HP, but will have enough dfrag on it to prevent a person pushing the car. Man is really low on the HP scale!! Might also be a plugged or swollen brake hose, if he has one, and simply is slowing down the slave return with the clutch pedal released.... MORE
And the problem is what? Engine quits when the key is turned off? Could that be normal? Nah! If you have a hose to the slave, it might be old and swelling inside and making the clutch grab slowly. However, I still don't understand what the problem is!! Please restate it! Paul A "Paul Asgeirsson" 14562... MORE
