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Hi guys. It's been awhile, I'm starting to "go through" my 948 engine from my 62 Sprite. The engine was redone about 20 years ago, and I am lucky enough to know the guy who did the work. I bought the car as a basket case, as he sold it to a guy who was king at "making basket cases". The guy he sold it to (and I bought it from) is out of the picture, but the guy who did the work doesn't believe the engine was even started after the work was done. I have stripped the... MORE
A "Mary K." Spridget, J. Fishbein? You don't happen to be a Seinfeld fan do you? If so, you remember the "parking lot" episode (re-played just this past week) wherein Kramer gets to borrow a pink (Mary K.) Caddy when the lot can't get his car out upon request? Remember what happened to him? I'd be very careful with that Pink Spridget, JF!! :) Cap'n. Bob (Ret'd) '60 Frog PilotRob@... 5476... MORE
Hi List, Need some help regarding front disc brakes assembly.... Not too sure how everything is supposed go together. Since it's brakes, I don't want to screw-up or take any chances. I have all the front brake bits from '69 Midget and since they were are all disassembled, I am not 100 % certain how they are all supposed to go together. Trying to pre-assemble everything on the A arms (with new parts) off the car, since it will (hopefully) make it a lot easier to install later on. The pieces that I am not that sure of, is... MORE
All Listers, It's that time of year again when the vintage racers go up for sale. And, that's what I'm doing. I'm selling my 1961 Austin Healey Bugeye Sprite #42 EP, red. This is a beautiful 100% complete turnkey race car with the best of the best componets installed. This car has been featured in numerous magazines. No expense was spared during restoration and safe racing preperation. Nothing is needed. Roll it off the trailer and go racing. 1275, Longman Head, numerous Speedwell componets installed, custom Speedwell rollbar (the best in the business), Kirkey Ultralight seat, Big Tube LCB... MORE
Willy, I haven't actually ever encountered this situation, but have done a fair amount of aluminum fabrication. I donlt know how much you need to trim, but I think I'd approach it with a table type vertical belt sander. They make special belts for metal too. I think this will give the the most control removing small amounts of metal and test fitting along the way. Gerard "gerardchateau" 5347... MORE
The overflow pipes are very important, and they should be long enough so any overflowing fuel is carried below the exhaust manifold. There's something about raw gasoline on a hot manifold that I think is best avoided. You say your float level is fine, but how are your needle valves? If they are not closing properly, the fuel will continue to flow regardless of what the float is doing. You might want to check your fuel pressure as well. Good luck, Doug Ingram Victoria BC 1958 Sprite AN5L/636 Doug Ingram 5321... MORE
Yes, worked fine, I switched to 3/4". The differance is the pettal pressure required. It doesn't matter if you are using "Stock" Bugeye brakes, single piston wheel cylinders, or MG brakes, dual piston caliper in front and dual piston in the rear, It still takes brake fluid to operate. The dual pistion, front & rear, will require more fluid to operate and therefore the 7/8" should be more effecent since it moves more fluid. The 3/4" requires less petal pressure because it moves less fluid. It does require that the brakes be adjusted properly due to the less fluid.... MORE
Just a quick 2 tuppennyworth Anodizing when done as a process on ally parts is purely an artificial as opposed to natural oxidisation of the surface. Its a 50 / 50 process i.e. whatever thickness is deposited on the surface the same will be penetrated into the parent metal. Its been thirty years since I did any as an experiment but I seem to remember that :- Anodiizing for decoration can be done easily using dilute sulphuric acid, a 12V battery, some sort of regulator (light bulb) and ordinary cold water clothing Dye. I'm sure it will be covered... MORE
Hi Bob, When you are ready to glue these pieces together, make sure you use "methylene chloride" for a permanent bond. If you don't have any, just take the pieces to your local plastic display company and they will probably do it for free. Also, to all members, never...never use "Windex" or similar cleaners on your plastic windows. Just use soap and water!!! My background is in plastics. HTH, Phil Aurora, Ontario, Canada "Phil" 5249... MORE
Bugeye. With today's gas, is anyone really having any trouble with a mechanical pump pulling the fuel as opposed to the electrical pump pushing the fuel. Especially in 100 degree summer temps? All thoughts would be appreciated as usual. Bob C in KS bcah@... 5179... MORE
Julie, Aren't you sweet.. wish I had a daughter as thoughtful as you... I've never seen a Hot Wheels Bugeye, but Johnny Lightening has several versions of the Bugeye. Right now the American Graffiti series has a yellow one and there is a Gold Collectors edition one too. http:// www.playingmantis.com/jl/index.php Gerard http://www.gerardsgarage.com "gerardchateau" 5145... MORE
Hi can anyone help me out here? I purchased a water temp gauge and in the process realized that the receptor on the radiator where it screws into was damaged beyond repair and took the entire radiator into a radiator shop. the tech there said he didnt know where to get the fitting for this and if I could locate one he would take the old one out, and solder a new one in, I went to a few auto parts stores, and they couldnt help me. I looked in Moss and Vickybrit catologe as well as anglo parts... MORE
When I come across "parts cars" or rusted out hulks I usually try to take notes and check Horler's book on Sprites/Midgets. What I have seen in the past is data plates not matching up with obvious mis matches. Engine serial number plates, I understand, were aluminum and I suppose could have been melted off during hot tanking but what about body serial numbers? It is so easy to screw on a different data plate, I wonder how many cars are really what they appear to be? There is another number stamped into the sheet metal on the right... MORE
The predrilled bolt holes on the bottom of the frame rails are for the anti-sway bar. The predrilled holes on the sides of the frame rails are for the front bumper and the "hood lock brackets." The two small holes on the right side radiator upright are for the original Bugeye horn. Bob, Portland, OR "Robert Webb" 5044... MORE
FWIW, On the modified healeys web site, there are a couple of postings forwarded from a Jag site on cooling. Numbers 3374 and 3376. http://groups.yahoo.com/group/modifiedhealeys/ They are by a guy who is a practicing engineer in heat transfer, and he explains things far better that I did a couple of months ago. Plus he provides a well-founded, concise explanation on why 25-75 is better than 50-50 glycol-water. I'm sold, will be giving it a try next summer since I'm just a little marginal in traffic in hot weather. Hamondale "hamondale" 5031... MORE
Hmmm.... These engines are "good" to "80" over with respect to decent reliability and bore flex...sure you can go larger (and people do for power) but usually bore flex begins to show up at the higher rpms. Thus, sleeving takes place to ensure long term service from the "normal" street engine. Sleeving may also be used to "cover" damage to one bore as in a loose piston pin. However, sleeving also reduces "heat transfer" so the ability of the cooling system is somewhat compromised. Considering you need a new crank anyway, I'd go with a rebuilt shortblock were I... MORE
That's close, Tim: Actually the real explanation is somewhat more simple. In order for iron (yr bodyshell) to form iron oxide (yr rust) it must be oxidized (ie, become a positively charged ion). Connecting the positive terminal of the battery to it only helps that process along. Of course there must also be water present (which is the reason cars in Arizona don't) and, of course the chloride from salt is catalytic to iron oxidation, so if you park your positive ground car in the ocean, you can probably watch chemistry at work as the sheet metal fizzes away...... MORE
Hi, I have two radiators which are candidates for my restoration project.- a 60 Bugeye. One is rough, but has a really nice brass plate proclaiming "Morris Motors" on it. It is almost certainly the original radiator on my '59. The other is in much better condition but has no data plate, only a r aised metal area about 1/2 as wide as the brass plate. I perhaps could transfer the data plate to the better radiator but I do n't want to damage it. Anybody know how it is attached? Were all original radiators identified by manufacturer? Wisdom... MORE
Yep. This seems to be the case, and mine is newly rebuilt and still, it does this. I am not saying that MTL may be the only synthetic lubricant out there that will minimize this, 'cause I haven't tried them all....just Mobile 1. Further, while this seems to work in today's summer temperatures, I don't know this will be the case to the same extent, as winter makes itself known in these parts. I just figure it'll minimize the problem, temperature notwithstanding, in any event. I think the fact Redline makes this stuff particularly for this application with the... MORE
Hey SWAGsters and other Bay Area listers. I've gone to this event the last three years and it's a blast. It really is a picnic and you there are actually BBQ in the meadow for publuc use. There is everything from daily driver's to concourse, hot rods, street rods classic and vintage from Model T up to about 1972. Last year there were several BMW Isettas and a few other foreign makes from Abarth to Morris Minor. Datsun Roadsters usually have a big showing too. Jimmy's OLD CAR PICNIC in Golden Gate Park. OCTOBER 13, 2002 Sunrise to Sunset... MORE
Fuel probs Don't forget to put the 20 Amp (17 Amp ?) fuses back in . Under normal circumstances you should get no where near 20A But 30 Amps in the wire will get a bit hot and still not blow the fuse. Regards, Alan "Jones, Alan" 4888... MORE
But thats what my temperature runs and I am using the 165 Thermostat, less than 85 F, 13 row oil cooler, 1 qt of A/F in a down flow 3 row radiator, with water weter since I couldn't find the "Purple Ice".??? Does the "Purple Ice" really do that much? or anything? Bob, Portland, OR "rw97060" 4868... MORE
Bob, I am running a 165 F thermostat and when driving in less than 85 F, all four (4) of the gauges are running about 170F. Two oil temps and two waters. One of the waters is in the head, other is original mounting. I am using "Purple Ice" with one (1) quart of A/F in a down flow 3- Row radiator. Also using a 13-Row Oil Cooler mounted in front of the radiator. I see them move up some (5-10 F) on higher speed runs or hills and then they drop back down. Running the heater does not... MORE
"To Roll Bar....or not to Roll Bar", Mike? This IS the question. I empathize with your quandry in this respect, Mike. IMHO, I like the look of the Frog without the rollbar, rather than with it, as well. Mine came with a bar welded it (PO did a great job on this....pure "pro".) So, I had no choice, really. And considering a fellow lister just advised us a roll bar saved his wife's life in her '76 Midget, well.......I am glad I did not have a choice.....or I might have done something not too smart!! :) An additional benefit... MORE
Following up on this valve thread, I'm in the middle of building a 1275 from a long block that I purchased. Haven't done this before and have arecommended shop for cleaning, magna fluxing and doing overall setup, including balancing. My question, after all this discussion, should I be looking at changing the valving or leave it alone? At this point I don't even know what is on the head or how to tell the difference. I have found a mild street cam, 266 dur, and the engine guy is asking about the springs? Any idea what he is asking... MORE
