MAIN
Electrical System
Previous Page | Next Page
Michael, Good one, really got me thinking on that one. I would investigate the dipper switch area (operation, connections etc.) for an incorrect connection. I believe that wire originates down there, at the dipper switch. If the back of the headlights give you a voltage reading with a volt meter consistant with what your blue lite says I would suspect the dipper itself. I would start measuring at the back of the speedo at the light and then down to the dipper switch next. It might have a wire plugged in the wrong place or melted to another wire.... MORE
In the course of the years I've owned my bugeye ... the wiring harness has been exposed to a little more short circuiting than I'd care to admit, mostly not due to my own shennagans. Still, she is running fine and the wires that were toasted got replaced. I suspect that there may be some melted ones lying next to each other that I should chase down. My question involves the high beam indicator light: In the bugeye electical circuit diagram provided in the original Workshop Manual it has the high beam indicator light splitting off of the "Main... MORE
I spent two months in Florida this past summer for work. (KSC) Drive down to Vero Beach and visit Wire Wheel. They are nice people and have lots of fun LBC toys. I even got to sit in several of their cars. Who knows...You might drive home in a Lotus or TVR ;-) Mark Hanna (Colorado) "an5lmh" 9283... MORE
Marcus.... If the motor is drying out at the top and the slightly richer needles don'r really improve the situation to the extent you and your engine tuner/dyno operator think they should, check the total timing. Assuming the timing is set to stock specs to begin with.... you may find while the curve is fine for normal acceleration that you are running overadvanced at the top. Capping the curve off earlier in the game with a bush fitted over the limiting pivot arm is an easy fix in this event and will allow you to keep the present curve... MORE
the 1" slave, (with the 3/4" master it makes for a easy clutch), and I do have the Datsun slave cylinder with the L hydrolic line direction, but I think it is 7/8". I am going to a heavy duty oil/hydrolic line supplier in Portland tomorrow to try to get a "Street 90" for my 1" slave cylinder. If they can't do one in a short enough L, is there a Datsun or ??? that is short enough? What do the racers with a 5 speed (the 5 speed switches sides of the transmission of the slave cylinder) and... MORE
Chris, Geez, I have one I bit like that. Back when I had a built 1296 with a Weber, I was had just put the Weber back on, connected everything else, last thing I did was give the throttle cable a tug and watch it actuate. All OK. Then went on to other things, at some point turned the key on to start it up for some more tuning, thought to check something else under the bonnet, went around front and checked. All OK, I then figured, well, I'll start it up from right here, pushed the starter button... MORE
The shorting with watches, rings, wrenches, etc. is probably why in all the instructions, one of the first things mentioned is to disconnect the battery cable. Someday, somebody should try it and let us know if it helps. :(). I haven't melted a watch or ring, but I do have weld spots on several wrenches. Question: In 1970-73 I had a 58 or 59 (stock) and I had to buy a Snapon 135 degree open end wrench to loosen the front generator bolt so I could adjust the fan belt. I now have a 60 w/a 1275, and I... MORE
Yes Rex, I did tell her, but in a "no big deal" sort of way, leaving out the detail of how ridiculous I looked trying to get out. I think I would have chewed my hand off at the wrist rather that let her find me there and have more "guess what he did last week/month/year" ammo. And yes, I once completed a circuit from the starter motor cable through my high school ring. Gold alloys are quite conductive of both electricity and heat. I had a circular brand burned around the finger. No more rings while wrenching. H... MORE
Well sir, you are a real man among men admiting this to the world. It feels better letting this go doesn't it. The real question is, Did you tell your wife about this and let her "use it" on you? Seriously, you are lucky to have gotten out of your perdickament. Try being in the same position and finding the hot starter wire with your wedding ring! Blew the thing in two and I was lucky I didn't loose my finger. Talk about a wedding ring scar...Cheers, Rex Urban "Rex Urban" 9220... MORE
Mike...windshield post screws. Each side has a long one and short one... I think the long one is the front one... any one else? Cap'n. Bob '60 :{) PilotRob@... 9219... MORE
I also have not run into this problem before. It should not be able to move, is it installed correctly? Is it new or old? I have found a similar simptom with the crane system on the MGB electronic distributor (75-80) If the incorrect timing rotor is used (from point style kit) it can move freely like described. Also on a sprite if the point style timing rotor is not pushed down fully onto the top of the cam lobes it may be able to move (but you really have to be a nimrod) sorry.... Rex Urban "Rex Urban"... MORE
Okay. Brain dead dude in Modesto, here. I've thought I saved every bit of info that I've asked questions about, but I'll be darned if I can find the email back from Palo Alto Speedometer. It had all the necessary things I need to send them to do the conversion. These are the people who can convert an original bugeye sprite mechanical tach to an electric one using a chip inside ... and still preserving all original stuff including the casing and face plate? I'm sure it is. Just need an email address and verification from you guys. Old... MORE
As bad as I HATE to say this at this point, Mark; I HOPE you are running a wire (spiral) brush thru those holes!?!?!?!?!? BTW, bushes left by 1st Class Mail yeasterday!! Me "justbrits" 9163... MORE
G'day Will The original heater tubing was a wire spiral covered in treated paper, matt black. It's called "Kopex" tubing - don't ask me why, I guess that could have been the name of the manufacturer. Kopex of a smaller diameter was used for the demister vents inside the cabin. Kopex is still available, but very difficult to find and expensive due to low volume production and high shipping costs. It's not heavy, but it takes up a lot of space. Contact me off line if you can't find any Kopex locally. I can supply both sizes. regards Colin... MORE
Don, The Moss part that looks like paper (but is actually aluminum covered with paper) is the same as used in the big Healey in both front corners for fresh air intake. I have used this many times and it looks great. The original style was a shabby vinyl coverd spring that looks very much like drier hose. It must have cost 10 cents less so it went on the Bugeye. Remember if you use the aluminum shiny style (from home depot) for looks make sude that no electrical wires can come in contact with it. Aluminum conducts electric... MORE
From what I can tell the hose shown in the Moss catalogue is not like the original used in the Bugeye and early MKII Sprite and MKI Midget. Most folks seem to use standard aluminum dryer duct that you find at Home Depot as a replacement, works just as well as that from Moss or the original. The original was a rather crude affair of black rubber (perhaps it was vinyl) sheet wrapped around a spiral of wire forming a tube with a somewhat smooth surface. It was very prone to crush and flatten out of shape. Don't know... MORE
A buddy of mine, living in Germany during March of 1963, got the following quote from the Austin Motor Car Co., Ltd., Motor Export Corporation, Ltd. of Piccadilly, London on a new AH3000... A-H 3000 Sports Conv. L865.00.00 (Mono or DuoTone) Prod. Line fitted extras: Heater 15.10.00 Overdrive 50.00.00 Wire Wheels 25.00.00 Adj. Steering Col. 2.00.00 Tonneau 10.00.00 Knockoffs (ea. wheel) 1.06.00 Servo Ass't. Brakes 10.00.00 *Steering Lock 4.10.00 *Wing Mirror 1.11.04 * = Compulsory in Germany A hardtop is not currently available thru the Personal Exports Divison Anyone care to do the exchange rate math at "yesterday's" prices,... MORE
G'day Jim I agree with you - and with Don Empty the tank (doesn't your tank have a drain plug?), drop it out, remove the 4 screws on the top of the sender unit and have a peek inside. It's basic 1940's technology in there, nothing electronic. You will have dirty contacts or a broken wire, and the unit may very well be repairable, free, by yourself. avagoodday Colin connectors above your passenger's right knee (could be under the dash, or could be inside the engine bay) logic, works the opposite to what you would expect: gets through the... MORE
Hi All, I have a Bugeye tach that has been converted to electric. Palo Alto Speedo did the work. I had to supply a Bugeye tach, tell them if I would be running pos or neg ground, electronic ign. or points. They returned a very nice Bugeye tach with VDO internals. No more dynamo no more tach drive gear box(s) to fail again and again. Looks original from the drivers seat. Cost me ~ $200 Mark Hanna (Colorado) "an5lmh" 9091... MORE
G'day Mike The reason you are having trouble finding your 6,000 rpm electronic tacho is...... it doesn't exist. The 6,000 rpm Bugeye tachos were not electronic, but cable driven off the generator (or, if you prefer, dynamo). The electronic tachos (Mk III Sprite etc) all read to 7,000. If you want a 6,000 rpm tacho, you will need to make one out of a later electronic unit and the face of a (preferably non-working) Bugeye tacho. avagoodday Colin "Colin@SpriteParts" 9081... MORE
Sorry.... this is what i meant to write : Is it possible to get an electronic tach with a face that looks like the original cable tach ? (6.000 or 7.000 rpm) Troels Maaloe -3947 "Troels Maaloe" 9083... MORE
Is it possible to get an electronic tach with a facia that looks like the original cable tach ? (6.000 or 7.000 rpm) Troels Maaloe -3947 "Troels Maaloe" 9082... MORE
www.nisonger.com will make you a properly calibrated later electric tach with a BE 6,000rpm BE "face". It will not be inexpensive but will be a lot more inexpensive if you can supply them an original BE "face". The cost will be easily twice the going price (at the time of purchase) of their overhauled electric Smith's tachs. but it will read accurately. Cap'n. Bob '60 :{) PilotRob@... 9085... MORE
Keyword=Electronic NFW is there an ELECTRONIC (Original) BE Tach!!!!!!!! [gearreduction off of the rear of the generator] take care-Steve "Stephen P. Mers" 9079... MORE
G'day Jim In a correctly wired up positive earth car, current passes: 1.. from the fuse box through the front wiring loom to the gauge 2.. then from the gauge through the wiring loom to the bundle of connectors above your passenger's right knee (could be under the dash, or could be inside the engine bay) 3.. then into the rear wiring loom through to the tank unit 4.. where it earths by the screws holding the unit to the tank. There is a variable resistor in the tank unit which, for some bizarre BMC logic, works the opposite... MORE
