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Hi I have a 1960 948 (Fogeye) sorry Bugeye for all of you in the US which has has a reconditioned Gearbox and a new clutch fitted. It changes up the gears fine ie 1-4 but is a real problem from 4-3 and 3-2. The clutch seems to work fine (no drag or juddering). The company who reconditioned the box claim it is fine even after visiting them. Has anybody got any ideas what it might be ??? Many thanx Chris Purnell Ipswich England "chrispurnell26" 14614... MORE
Having a little problem with bugeye right that I can't get back to until next weekend, so I thought I would see if the lists have any suggestions beyond what I've done so far. Car was running perfectly at beginning of week. Drove it to work on Monday - ran great. Started out Tuesday morning, but turned back to house after a mile. Ran okay through neighborhood, seemed a little "off" but I just thought engine was still cold. But on highway I tried to accelerate hard, car ran up to about 2500-3000rpms, and would "stutter" - no power... MORE
Update: Tried the same routine this morning. Started the car in the garage, drove it out with out any problems. Car behaves as normal. All gears work flawlessly. Clutch feel and action normal as before. I let the car warm up and try to drive it. Nothing! Try it for several minutes. Still no go. Had someone look to see if the driveshaft is turning? Nope. Driveshaft is not turning. Clutch pedal feels as before, normal. I turn off the engine and let the car cool down for 5-10 minutes. This time I try to start the car while... MORE
Phil, You stop just short of all the information we need to go further. So let me ask these questions. The car is cold in the morning, you get in and push in clutch, starts ok, select rev and back out. Then if you put it in first and let out clutch, it drives away just fine. If you keep driving for a while, shifting through the gears up and down, it feels normal. How long can you keep driving with out the problem? If you keep driving, does the problem ever occur, or is it only there after... MORE
Ok, perhaps I am not doing a great job at describing the problem. Lets try this again. By the way, this problem just started as of yesterday. 1. First thing in the morning the car works perfectly. Rev it up dump the clutch and the car will spin the wheels on the pavement. 2. After 5 min warm up the car will not move regardless what gear you select. Put it in gear, rev it up, relese the clutch pedal and nothing happens. Nata! Zippo! Car acts as if it in nueteral. 3. While the car is running you... MORE
1) sounds like the clutch cover is not engaging the driven plate fully. When warm, have someone watch the clutch lever at the trany and see if it is indeed moving properly as the pedal is depressed and released. 2) Low fluid? Check the brake fluid level and then try to bleed the slave cycl. or 3) with engine off put it in 1st and try to start it. warning if the clutch doesn't slip the care will move and try to leave. beready and be pointed away from anything hard!!! or soft either!! 4) while driving see if... MORE
Thats correct! When I use the clutch to select any gear, I let out the cluch and nothing happens. I can rev the engine all I want, no action, it acts as if its in neutral. Ps. Everything is new, slave cyl. master cyl. 3/16" steel brake lines and clutch line. Phil Aurora, Ontario, Canada "Phil" 14568... MORE
Paul, What I am trying to say is: After the car warms up (ideling) by selecting any gear,nothing happens. While the car is still running it will not go in any gear without using the cluch pedal. Turn the car off and put it into any gear, the car will not move. Engine prevents the car from moving. What gives? Phil Aurora, Ontario, Canada "Phil" 14563... MORE
List/members, Sorry for the long post. I need your input or your collective wisdom about this strange phenomenon that my car suddenly developed. I am stumped! Can't quit understand how this could be. Before I start poking around, I feel I should get some opinions (advice) first. Here are the particulars. Everything is either new or it has been rebuilt. Engine, clutch, transmission, electics, brakes, etc. Problem developed last night. Started the car and drove it out of the garage. Everything is normal as usual. Parked it outside and let it run for 5 min or so. Neighbour came... MORE
Hi Bob, He has the original setup, with no adjuster. But, if it was working before, likely the slave is OK and the problem is in the clutch cover or disc. Could also be a broken axle, but that I doubt. Broken clutch covers will not always hold an engine HP, but will have enough dfrag on it to prevent a person pushing the car. Man is really low on the HP scale!! Might also be a plugged or swollen brake hose, if he has one, and simply is slowing down the slave return with the clutch pedal released.... MORE
OK, now for some alternate thoughts, etc. 1. Must depress the clutch to get trans into gear. Normal 2. Release the clutch and the car won't move. NOT normal! 3. Kill the engine and with it in gear, car won't move when pushed by hand. Pretty normal. 4. Clutch pedal feels about normal. For #1== No conclusion. For #2== A/ Clutch not engaging enough to get the car under way. Despite it being a new clutch, the diaphragm type clutch is known for it's ability to break the retainer spring and consequently won't clamp the disc adequately to make... MORE
And the problem is what? Engine quits when the key is turned off? Could that be normal? Nah! If you have a hose to the slave, it might be old and swelling inside and making the clutch grab slowly. However, I still don't understand what the problem is!! Please restate it! Paul A "Paul Asgeirsson" 14562... MORE
Nah, those are easy. Put the Datsun 5 speed transmission in, which has the slave cylinder on the other side, low. No hole, the slave cylinder bleeder is between the frame rail and the transmission. You can't get to it from below, and above you only have the engine, exhaust, carbs, fuel lines, etc. Seeing the bleeder is hard, much less getting a wrench, scocket, pliers on it to open and close it. It's too close to the frame for a bleeder hose...... and like the A.H. slave, you end up doing it 3 times before it gets all... MORE
I have heard several different version of "how to properly tighten and shim the front stub axle nut" for use with 1275 drum brake equipped (upgraded stub axles for vintage racing) and timken tappered roller bearings with no center bearing spacer (I've also heard a modified spacer should be used - thoughts?). Also anyone have a source for replacement shims? Peter at Worldwide, Moss, VB? Thanks Keith Lawrence 1956 Turner 803 - "it's all sprite on the inside" "kal8man" 14499... MORE
Okay, guys, I had the honor of being the last one to swallow this April fool's joke. But, while the last laugh may be on me, the last laugh in the bigger sense will be on all of us if we don't bring the younger generation into our fold. Remember those Model A and T Fords that brought big bucks 20 years ago? They're languishing now and going for a relative pittance. If our LBCs are to have any sort of future at all, the younger generation needs to be encouraged to embrace them like we did. That does... MORE
Curt, Had the same problems with my 1275. Was told it was a good engine. Used copper-cote on the first gasket. It leaked. Used Cat (as in heavy equipment) "green" head gasket sealer (supposed to be the best stuff around) on the second gasket. It leaked. Took the head to a machine shop. It was warped. Had it planed. Hasn't leaked since. Hope this helps. Dave 61 Bugeye 66 Sprite 60 BT7 Dave Gay 14492... MORE
Are you kidding Bob? I am an engineer and have a bridgeport in my garage. Luckily, I still have all my fingers! I had a friend wire EDM me a couple of front tilt kits like Speedwell sells, out of stainless steel. I hope to easily change my original bonnet with the fiberglass Speedwell one with just a couple of bolts and a plug. I didn't want to use the hinges Speedwell uses because I am grafting the radiator ducting from a doner bonnet and plan to use the same attaching points on the shrouds. As for locking down... MORE
Hi Group, Just put new ARP head studs in my 948. Torqued them to 60 pounds per ARP instructions with proper lube etc. While giving my car a quick test run I had the head gasket start leaking from the front cylinder out under the thermostat housing. Also I was told to just put teflon paste on the threads of the ones that go into the water jacket and only torque them into the block a little over hand tight. That doesn't seem very secure to me. I've noticed tiny bubbles appear out the threads of the water jacket... MORE
This forum/discussion group will probably be of very little help to you in that most will allow what is know as "bolt on & reversable modifications" in that there is little if any perment modifications to the cars. The changes are reversable in that instulation of a 1275 motor and a ribcase transmission is reversable be simple pulling out the 1275 & transmission and bolting in a 948 and smoothcase transmission. Disc brakes, etc, are also reversable, if someone in the future wanted to. The major cutting and reworking that you are planning is not easily reversable, and I... MORE
Until recently, I had a similar problem. What seems to have fixed it for mine, is installing a S.U. Electric fuel pump. I am running a 1275 w/HS-4's, but once I have got it started once, It is good for a week. Before the S.U.'s, I had a generic electric fuel pump and a fuel pressure regulator. That combiniation made it very hard to start after standing a few days or more. I have 2 springs on the choke, and have adjusted the choke cable to where it is \ when full off. You are suppose to adjust the... MORE
My 60' bugeye has a 948 with a Judson Super Charger and a Holly carb. I can't get the floats to shut off the fuel, and it over flows through the vent at the top of the bowl. The fuel pressure is about 6.5 lbs. I bought it from Chicaco Carb. I brought it back to them, and watch it on their bench work just fine with my settings. Any Ideas? Tom Kashul Park Ridge, IL. TMJCOMM@... 14464... MORE
Hello group, my clutch is slipping in 3rd and 4th gear when I open the throttle (too) much. I'm running a stock 948 (just overhauled last year) with HS1-SU's combined with a rebuilt ribcase box I think the springs in the clutch cover are tired as the plate was OK as I reinstalled the engine last year Q1: Can I change the clutch to plate and cover to 1275-spec ? I like that system with the diafragm springs better, also it should be able to cope better with te torque of the engine as it is designed for a... MORE
The original floors had a drain hole with a splash shield underneath. The replacement floors don't have a drain hole. Rick "Rick Fisk" 14440... MORE
Of course the man who has paid for the car certainly has the right to do whatever he wants to his car...that said, I do hate to see a Bugeye butchered, since there will never be any more, and it seems a shame to loose one. On the other hand, we don't really object at all to putting the wrong (disc) brakes, engines (1275), and even, God forbid, Japanese transmissions in them, so where do we draw the line? Is Colin bastardizing the breed with an XKE engine shoehorned into one? Is a fiberglass bonnet anathema? Are these cars... MORE
It's his money, let him do whatever he wants to with it. Unless you want to buy it from him and save the car. I just met a fellow in Long Beach, he's doing some wild modifications to his bugeye. His name is Hans, and from what I can tell, he's doing an excellent job. He bought a Miata and gutted it for the engine and trans, rear end and front end. Major modifications. He and his son are building it. He will have one mean ride when he's finished. It will just be interesting if this guy ever... MORE
