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Tim, A few comments on Bob's post... below. Vizard's discussion of heads with both the larger intake AND exhaust valves in Cooper "S" heads reveals that they had a tendancy to crack between the intake and exhaust, even whan later casting modifications were made. The last "S" heads produced used the 1.156" exhaust valves with the 1.4 inch intake. Those casting were the common 12G-940. i think I'd think twice about enlarging both. I'm not cer\tain that these cheap mufflers are the way to go as the don't provide the proper back pressure. The only "recommended" performance (hi-flow) exhaust... MORE
G- The Cooper "S" intake valves which were oversize to the extent cracking occurred were the 1.48's not the 1.4's. Having used 1.4's and 1.215 Rimflow valves, intake and exhaust, in the same ironhead, I can vouch for the fact they do work....and rather well! There is no such thing as "proper" back pressure....what you are looking for is less or minimal back pressure. The Cherry Bomb works better than stock 'cause the Dyno said so! Either the Thrush or Cherry Bomb (can't remeber which) can be mounted in reverse for better flow (and more noise!). Take a look... MORE
The 948 mechanical fuel pump will work - Mine did! I drilled and tapped my 1275 block out and the normal mechanical pump fit & worked just fine. Hope I'm not too late for this reply. Rodger T. '59 BE "mowog59" 4705... MORE
Tim, I have rebuilt several A-series engines this past year and disassembled a couple more. Here is what I find is always the case as far as what needs to be replaced/done to the bottom end. New pistons/rings (ususally oversize due to out-of-round or tapered cylinders). new cam bearing new rod & main bearings, thrust washers new timing components (both gears and chain) new damper pulley if your shows deterioration of rubber (they usually are) new freeze plugs new oil gallery plugs (need to be removed to clean out block). new oil pump reground cam and lifters (or new... MORE
^ . . ^ =0=..........Tim- (I usually don't give out information to those who don't like cats...so you better like 'em!) OK....here we go! In consideration of today's relatively garbage octanes - "mild" is the way to go assuming you want a dependable, reliable daily driver that won't be a headache with respect to overheating, ignition advance, etc. but still go pretty well. A "stage 2" state of tune comes to mind. Between 9.0 and 10.0-1 compression ratio with a Kent 256 or 266 cam. The 256 will give you a boost in the low and mid-range with tiny... MORE
Gerard, Thanks for the tips. I see I need to reply with a little more additional info. I'll answer on the list in case anyone else is interested. Are you recommending a new oil pump because of possible wear on the old one, or are there other inherent problems I am not aware of that might happen were I not to replace it? The old lifters are toast. I've never seen lifters with spider web cracks before. I was told this may be due to someone revving the engine to high RPM on a cold startup. True? The machine... MORE
Dear List: I took my 1275 Midget engine in to the machine shop yesterday to start the process of rebuilding it for my '59 Bugeye. I would like to hear from those of you who have gone down this road before what you would recommend for replacement components as I do this. My driving goals are mostly local trips in town, the occasional club event (100-200 miles of highway driving - no Interstate), and perhaps a few quick starts of the light to show the kids how to do it. ;-} (I plan to replace the stock 4-speed with... MORE
Moss Motors marketed some in the late '70s that were of a little different design. They were sold through specialty shops such as "M G Mitten". I bought a set but wasn't able to find any replacement seals for them after time and actually couldn't even get Moss to acknowledge that they marketed them. I gave them away to a Midget owner and haven't seen them since. Steve "an5l9717" 4680... MORE
Bob, Yes, any mech fuel pump should work on the covered fuel pump location. (I've done it) Use the left over holes from the removed bumper bars to mount any bar for any front accesories. I do not drill any non-stock bolt holes in a Bugeye except for belts, roll bar, period. John Carey Bugeye Gallery at: http://pages.sbcglobal.net/jbcarey/index.html NG4SaleOTH@... 4671... MORE
I almost started to spend $$$ on redoing the front bumper when I realized how much better the Bugeye looks without it. What are you folks out there doing for mounting badges and aux driving lights? Moss has some lights which have rear mounting bolts.These would require drilling a hole in the bonnet. Are there any badge bars or "nerf" bars out there? Bob C in KS bcah@... 4670... MORE
I'm looking at a 1275cc engine which has a blanking plate covering the hole where the fuel pump could go. It came out of a Midget with an electric fuel pump.Poking a flashlight into the hole, it looks as if there is a lobe to run the pump.Question: will the mechanical pump from my 948cc bolt right on, or do I need a different pump? Bob C in KS bcah@... 4669... MORE
Well gang, turns out my rough starting probalem on the Volvo was a blown head gasket. A small fracture between 2 and 3 was evident but boy are those pistons clean now! I pulled the head today after finding the oil contaminated with water yesterday. It was the color of very blond coffee. Just my luck, I just changed the oil and filter last week. I guess the good news is I don't think the head or the turbo housing is cracked like a couple people speculated. I'll be taking the head to the machine shop on Monday and... MORE
Gents, Just my two pennyworth, Of course the car runs cooler when there is moisture in the air. Water is a better conductor of heat than air. Why do you think they put water in the radiators and not air. You also need to move the coolant away from the hot surface and this is where the air comes in. Question : if you could force the same quantity of water through the radiator as air. Which medium would remove the most heat? Yes , IC engines do run better in cool moist air conditions, for the reasons that... MORE
Willy, The best way to anchor would be to the tranny tunnel and inner rocker. This is how the retrofit is detailed in the MKI shop manual. The only problem is you need to weld a nut on the innner rocker. A couple heavy washers and nut and bolt will work on the tunnel side. The alternative is to go through the floors at each corner behind the seats and use reinforcing washers on both sides for strength. Gerard "gerardchateau" 4650... MORE
JIM, I replace mine and was able to get one out by screwing it out, the other had to be cut out and I had to replace the wishbone/springpan. If yours is locked in as tight as mine was cutting the pan may be your option as well. WHen you speak of the bottom trunion, its attached to the Swivel pin and should drop out once the fulcrum pin is removed. As long as you have removed the small pin that runs through the trunion and locks the fulcrum. best of luck Bob 60 AN5 Tampa MTGBRKR1@... 4647... MORE
Really dull... The specific heat of dry (0% humidity) air @ 100f is 193 cal/degree C/cubic meter. At 100% relative humidity it is 215 cal/C/m, or 11% greater. This would produce engine running temps perhaps 8 - 10 degrees F lower, all else being equal. So your engine should run a little cooler in humid weather, while you run hotter. Bud Moore, recently retired, lives in town. Queried him about carb jets/humidity. He says, absolutely, humidity is a factor in jet selection. And if Bud doesn't know, nobody does. Told you it was dull. Besides it's one of those... MORE
Larry- (You ARE being a wise guy and I am going to kill you!:) "But, seriously, folks"... No, Lar. No humidity reading, however... It is taken into consideration via "safety factors" in "density altitude charts" which determine performance with respect to runway lengths required at various gross weights for the aircraft you are flying. (At least it should be, by this time!!) Even here, it may not be shown as an individual factor. When and if I get back into general aviation upon retirement, I will learn more about this. This is all done by "Dispatch" with the airline... MORE
Not exactly, Piloto - water molecules have greater heat capacity than air molecules, so humid air would cool (and heat) slightly more efficiently, all else being equal. Water molecules in the air into an engine would also slightly slow the fuel burn rate, in effect increasing the octane rating of the fuel air mix. Whether this is enough to measure, I don't know. "tloutrec" 4613... MORE
"Ahhh"...... "T" my friend.... Well, "measurement" (or "extent" if you will) IS the issue, indeed! We are NOT taliking water injection or moisture "saturated" cool air. In the former case, your thinking is obviously right on the money and in the latter case, just enough water to "smooth" out (slightly "slower", more "even") combustion, though oddly enough, power isn't really "up" assuming mixture was correct to begin with (clue!). Clue #2 - Think air "density" in terms of air/fuel ratio. Clue #3 - Ever started your carburated application on a coldish, "wet" morning and had the engine run rough... MORE
Larry, You are exactly correct, and your hypothetical experiment of spraying water on the radiator would demonstrate the effect if good instruments were used to take the data. Air flowing through the dry surface of a radiator has the same heat transfer effect whether at zero percent humidity or saturation. (When flowing over a chiller, and condensation occurs, THAT is different.) The variation of other parameters which affect heat transfer (air density, heat capacity, and thermal conductivity) over the range from 0 - 100%RH is negligible. As long as no phase transition of the water in the air occurs... MORE
Hi All, I am brand new to the list and a relatively new owner of a '59 Bugeye. I am located in the St. Louis area. My Bugeye is in relatively good shape has been modified from original with the 1275cc motor and an "ugly" interior. The body is all-original and appears to be in good shape except for a small rust hole in the right rear (floor of trunk area). It runs good; except it tends to run hot in our hot humid summers here in St. Louis. My immediate goals are to redo the interior and get... MORE
This has been bothering me for a long time. IMHO humidity only effects the human body not steel or iron. 80 degrees is to a radiator or engine the same rather the humidity is 0 or 100 percent. If we sprayed water on the front of the radiator, then it would matter. But since the outside of the radiator & engine are dry, or should be, the humidity cannot effect either. The air speed, coolant speed & type, are important, but the humidity is not. Please prove or disprove this theory for me. Thank you!!!!!!! Larry "bltlar" 4595... MORE
Yeah- With the old downflow rads., Sprites do tend to run awful warm when outside air temps exceed 80F. The later Spridgets with "X-flows" do better on the whole. Now another lister, Dave Yealy, complains of similiar problems so I'm gonna write another post on this. So much of this depends on when the block was last boiled out and how the car has generally been taken care of as to whether a reverse flush is done at least once a year, and when the radiator was last overhauled or rebuilt. Eventually, all the scum and crud builds up... MORE
Hi ! I bought 2 different new slave cylinders for my bugeye.. an original 998/1098 and a 1275 which uses the flex line. Neither matches up with the crazy-rigged clutch line installed by previous owner. What now ?? Is there a source for original all-solid clutch lines ? Victoria British and others I have checked say NLS.. Can one be bought with correct ends for using the later flex-coupling ? Buy just the Whitworth couplings (if correct) and buy brake line to adapt ?? The later slave cylinder has a larger bore..will the reduction in slave piston travel be... MORE
Completed a great 125 mile loop around rural Arkansas this AM, and would give the 'Purple Ice' a grade of B+. It dropped the temperature on almost all of the run a minimum of 5 degrees F. This was with my 1293 CC with a downflow radiator. I believe that I will be Very happy using this mixture for the remainder of the summer. (1 Quart A/F, 1 Cup Purple Ice, Water) I'll replace it this fall when it gets cooler and I need to keep some heat in the engine. Good Luck-Steve "an5l9717" 4587... MORE
