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To follow-up on what Bob said: I bought a Bugeye last summer that was already set-up just as you describe: 1275 with a 948 smoothcase transmission. At the time, I didn't fully understand the difference. I got the engine running (it had sat for over 20 years). Then I discovered that the clutch would not disengage (just because of age and rust). I ended up pulling the engine and tranny and replacing it. The 1275 needs a 1275 flywheel and clutch. This is what I had and I replaced it in kind. But, when I put the new clutch... MORE
Kind-of, No, Yes. Bob, Troutdale, OR And the transulation is: a 1275 will bolt up to the transmission, but you don't want to. (1) you will need a entire clutch assembly due to the difference in length or you can get a later rear engine plate that is cast (1/4") rather than pressed (1/16"). (2) the later "ribcase" transmission is stronger and can be rebuilt where as the smooth case is lacking some of the parts to rebuild(normally). Modifications, NO, the 948, 1098, and the 1275 use what is called an "A" block which means that it is the... MORE
I hope someone can give me some advice on this. Drivers school and race second weekend in June and I can't get the bloody running. I have a highly tuned (national level) race bugeye from the 70's era. Don't know the compression ratio, but probably pretty high, 12 to 1 at least. 4,000 to 7,000 rpm cam. 30 deg. advance. 110 octane race gas. champion n59g spark plugs. Electronic ignition box. No choke, just ram air intakes modifed hs2 carbs. Had it to a local brit car guru last fall and he tuned the carbs and set it up... MORE
There are too many "it seems", Ken. Consider.... What does "it seems" mean to an engine that requires "specifics" to run in a satisfactory manner throughout it's operating range?? If it's not getting the "proper" amount of electrical energy, or the "proper" amount of fuel delivery or the "proper" amount of ignition advance....well... It could be something like an "unsat" fuel pump. Mis-set initial timing. Improper advance rate. Old ignition wires. Fuel cap not venting. So if you cannot trouble shoot each system "properly", Ken...then it may be time to make the investment in a good mechanic and take... MORE
well boys my BE is on the road this spring and looking good but suffering from fatigue syndrome. that is she ain't got much power. all the usual suspects have been dealt with... new plugs. new wires. carbs rebuilt. running a pertronix ignition with a new rotor and cap. also just replaced the vacuum advance diaphragm. the engine fires right up and idles pretty good at about 1000 (kent 266 cam) but take her out and go above 2500 RPM and it just flattens and coughs. checked the distributor advance and it seems to be shifting upward as as... MORE
Does anyone know a good place to buy the new white gauges from Smiths. I have seen them on a mini in Santiago, Chile and they look fantastic. Thanks "frog" 9823... MORE
Andrew, To answer your first question, start worrying when white steam starts to puke out of hood (bonnet). That is what constitutes overheating!!!!!!! Look and see what the gage says at that point and just keep it below that number in the future. Remember these several points.. frequently the gage is not that accurate, (use a real thermometer to check it with) and having a good pressure cap raises the boil point as does coolant. The lists seems to have a consensus from posts last summer that running a 50/50 mixture of water and coolant is too much and... MORE
Greetings all, I just wanted to let the list know that I had success at installing the APT Smith's electric tach in my '59 BE last week. I had a bit of anxiety trying to figure out if I had all the wiring done right (didn't want to fry this thing right out of the box). The tach is designed for 4, 6, and 8 cylinder engines, as well as gas and deisel fuel. This means they have a few wires more than what is needed for a Series A engine. The instructions also used terminology for more modern... MORE
Hello to all you bugeye listers. I tried to quit this list/group ... but time has taken it's toll. Say, ... I miss you guys. After all my whining about getting too much email and cancelling my bugeye@yahoo list thingy ... I miss you guys! The good news is: I've had my head deep in my (not a__) bugeye and appy=lying many of the things I learned from you guys on the bugeye list. Si, I saved every damn subject that I asked about and all the answers from you guys. It's a potpourri of a bugeye knowledge base.... MORE
Does anyone have an extra Fuel Tank Sending Unit for my '60 BE, that they would love to part with? Thank You, Paul "Paul Sherman" 9734... MORE
I have a '61 Bugeye that I bought last summer with a 1275 and I think it has a smoothcase tranny. The most recent previous owner had the car for 20 years, but had never tried to start it. In fact, the car didn't even have a fuel pump or an exhaust so I'm not sure if this engine ever ran in this car (unless that stuff was stripped later). Nonetheless, I got the engine started last summer. After a long personal delay, I'm finishing the brakes and want to try driving the car Here is my dilemma. The... MORE
I have a dilemma that perhaps some of you can help me with. I bought a '61 Bugeye project car last summer. The car had sat for 20 years, and the most recent owner had never started it in that time. Since the car had no fuel pump or exhaust, I don't think that the 1275 engine (which was already installed) had ever been started in this car at all. I managed to start the engine last summer and then got delayed by some surgery from progressing further (no brakes, for example). Here is the dilemma. I know that... MORE
Greetings list, I have purchased an electric tachometer from APT in Bloomington, MN, and need a little help with connecting the wiring. I am running a 1275 cc negative ground system with Pertronix electronic ignition (high output coil as well). The APT instructions for the tach indicate that a Red/Blue wire in the tach harness is to be connected "to contact breaker (low tension side of coil) or positive side of magnetic sensor (NOT both)." To me, this means the Red/Blue wire should hook up to the positive side of the coil, but APT responded to my e-mail inquiry... MORE
missed it the first time... Thanks for the encouragement, my current plan is to do it as a street car that I can use at 8/10th for vintage, the local vintage club has 6 events a year at a non-race course site that they can go pretty good, but not full bore... I belong to a strong local Austin Healey club and since I'm new at the project car game I will be doing a lot of work at a British shop where the owner helps & guides and steps in only when needed... My current plan is to... MORE
I have a 1960 Bugeye with Smith fuel gauge. How do I test the gauge itself? If it fails, can it be repaired? If not, where can I get a replacement? I guess that's enough questions for one email! Ken Talbott Gretna, VA "Kenneth Talbott" 9602... MORE
I've noticed the last few times I driven the Bugeye that the electric fuel pump(blue Purolator 1-5psi) to ticking more & louder than usual. I can hear it alot when turned on and can even hear it over the engine noise (1380 & headers - so a fair amount of noise) when driving. Normally it ticks loudly when I first turn on power, quiets alot when fuel gets up to regulator or SU, and it not noticable when engine is running. Bad pump? Learn to live with it? Anything I check? Any advice or shared experiences would be appreciated.... MORE
Chuck, The gauges you want for your car are as follows; speedo - SN 6155/10 tach RN 2351/02 fuel FG 2530/31 oil/water GD 1502/01 Biff Jones "Biff" 9524... MORE
Drained the gearbox this weekend to remove the broken 1st gear tooth. Just as predicted I heard the splash as foreign objects dropped from the draining oil into the bottle. While slowly replacing the 2.8 pints through the gear shift opening (thanks for the tip guys) I put a magnet into the drained oil container and came out, to my surprise, with two =BC" ball bearings, a =BC" X 3/16" long capsule shaped piece of metal and pieces of spring. Not finding anything that resembled a broken gear tooth, I inserted the magnet up through the gearbox drain for... MORE
G'day Roget T I NEVER fill the gearbox through the filler hole. It's such a bummer to get to, you spill oil on the carpet, the plug doesn't line up properly when you refit it. In my humble opinion, it's faster, cleaner, and less stressful to do it through the gearstick hole. Pull back the rubber gearstick boot (OK, in later cars you will need to remove 4 self-tappers around the soft vinyl boot), remove the three 7/16" bolts that hold in the gearstick, and lift out the stick. Pour in your oil (2.807 US pints according to the... MORE
The Real Truth about Our Tools HAMMER: Originally employed as a weapon of war, the hammer nowadays is used as a kind of divining rod to locate expensive parts not far from the object we are trying to hit. MECHANIC'S KNIFE: Used to open and slice through the contents of cardboard cartons delivered to your front door; works particularly well on boxes containing seatcovers and motorcycle jackets. ELECTRIC HAND DRILL: Normally used for spinning steel Pop rivets in their holes until you die of old age, but it also works great for drilling mounting holes in fenders just above... MORE
As long as you are being formal Rodger, why don't you call me SIR! Okay just kidding, haha. My real name is Brad and I am near Spokane, Wa. When you refresh your memory on the A series GBX you will find that Colin and I are referring to the lay gear as well as first gear. This is one of the weak points of the GBX, they do not take much 1st gear abuse. While refilling the GBX lube can be a PITA via the usual method you may remove the shifter and add 20/50 slowly until the... MORE
G'day Roger You already know the answer - broken tooth on 1st gear. Which is also engaged when you select reverse. And as Ed suggests - a quick chane into second and it will last quite some time. AS LONG AS you do an oil change in the gearbox NOW. Every chance the broken tooth will be stuck somewhere inside the box (there are built-in ledges to trap the junk) but you might be lucky and have the tooth come out with the oil. Just like a broken tooth in your head - better out than in. Just imagine... MORE
I actually haven't bought the wiring harness yet. I just have the old harness still in the car but it is obviously gotta go. It looks like someone put in only the wires that were needed to thrash my little car around the track. I'm gonna need a really good wiring diagram when the tiime comes to rewire it. Right now, I just want to source parts and the wiring harness is right up at the top of the list. I just wanted to be sure I got what I needed. Someone suggested that I get mine built by... MORE
Hi all! So now begins the part of my rebuild that spooks me the most as I understand it the least. Da wiring. My car came with the usual mods; 1275 engine, disc brakes, negative ground set up. But here's the thing. I bought a new volt. regulator that was advertised as what was original for a Bugeye only to find that it has the screw posts not the spades that my current regulator has. Before I send it back, I'm wondering if the regulators are similar and if the only real difference is the manner in which the... MORE
Question for the wiring afficianandos: I was poking around under the dash this afternoon and noticed the green wire from the A4 terminal is hot where it is split to the fuel gauge, heater switch, flasher unit, and wiper motor. Would it be reasonable to assume I have a grounded circuit? In order to isolate the problem could I just disconnect the hot lead at the sink of the circuit and see if the green lead quits heating up? Tim C. P.S. Finally got the new rear end and rear axles installed, the panhard rod installed, and new minilite... MORE
