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If you have an impulse type Smith's tach, it is from a later car. "The pulse lead is connected in series between the ignition switch and the ignition coil." This is typically the white wire. "The pulse lead should form a symetrical loop and tight against the plastic forms." The loop is about a half to three-quarter inch in diameter. The other lead should be a green power lead from the fuse box. The lead from the tach should go to the SW side of the coil. The speedo needle is operated by a magnetic field spun from the... MORE
All, A filler tube cut is an orig. tank lost. The rubber connection can leak inside the car. (it has happened) You have to crawl inside the back to connect it. (ugh!) All but the rear ended to 55% crushed tank can be fixed. I suggest that if you want a new tank, get the new tank and use any filler top rather than cutting off the Bugeye tube. Save the tank if you don't want to pay the $25 to have it boiled and $25 to have it repaired. Someone would love to have your orig. You can... MORE
As the body of the tacho is grounded, it is possible the melted wire you speak of had faulty insulation, and was rubbing on the tacho, and was the source of the short you refer to. you will want to replace the *melted* wiring, as heat affected copper will be less efficient in the whole system and will be a weak spot for the future. I would look at that wire and also a quick check over the other wires there , if one has broken, cut, nicked or otherwise compromised wiring, it will mos t likely be the... MORE
Since you say the "short" stopped when you turned off the key, I would start at the ignition switch. Gerard "gerardchateau" 3457... MORE
My bet is the ignition switch, Kirk. How old is your's or when was the last time it was replaced? My experience has been they get "old", the "positions" go to hell and eventually "cross" and all quits. You fiddle with it, get it started and....(yep) the tach. wire burns (for those of us running an alternator). Was one of the first times I actually had the firex out of it's mount and and pulled the ring. Burning stopped, though. Check all your wiring back there, my friend. You may have to replace more than the tach. wire, but... MORE
I was out for a little test run the other day (short runs to evaluate the new brake pads and suspension done over the winter) and the "Prince of Darkness" struck me. I hit a small bump and everything shut down, no ignition, no fuel pump- nothing. I pulled over to the side of the road to investigate. After several minutes, I tried to restart and everything started again, now is when it gets weird. Just as I was turning into my block the dash started smoking. I immediately shut everything down and was forced to push the last... MORE
Phil, # 12G1316 is a later style 1275 head. Has air injection ports next to the spark plugs, right? That a dead giveaway. Gerard ..but I did go back on my previous post to find the cyl "gerardchateau" 3424... MORE
After a whole winter in the body shop, i should have my MKII body shell back on Monday. Hopefully the rest of the body panels won't take this long, the shell was there since last fall, and the only rust repair needed was the front shut panels, plus reapir of an antenna hole which I don't want/need, and also what looks like damage to the firewall in the area of the battery, almost looked like the negative post may have contacted the firewall and arced a hole into it. Looks real good now, painted the original Old English White.... MORE
Darryl, Actually there are 5 freeze plugs. Two are at the rear of the engine behind tha back mounting plate. I personally have never seen one go bad so chances are the other two are OK unless they were improerl installed. I'd probably replace the one and monitor the other two you can see. My thinking is that you'll want to see what will happen with one new one, leaving the others. With three new ones, it would seem you have a greater probability of blowing out the rear ones (weakest leak theory). Do them all when you decide... MORE
Darryl- I have never blown a core plug in any of my LBC's. Sounds like improper installation but let's see what others have to say. Try a little silicone around the gauges until you can find "proper" brackets; works good, lasts a long time and easy to remove (silicone and/or gauge!). Cap'n. Bob '60 :{) PilotRob@... 3372... MORE
I forgot to put in a plug for Porter's book. mentioned previously. For those of you who haven't seen it, and are contemplating any major Spridget restoration, I highly recommend it, for two reasons. Firstly, it is geared to the sort of restoration which can be carried out in a home workshop, using mostly simple tools and some rather ingenious methods. Secondly, and it was of great inspiration to me, the cars which he uses to demonstrate and illustrate the book and so absolutely terrible, rotten and butchered that one can alwys think: "Well, if he can restore THAT... MORE
My frogeye is a real problem starter. During the day, bomming around - starting and stopping is no problem at all. Starting the next day is a bit slower, but if i leave it for 2-3 days is becoming awkward and if i leave it for a week or more it is a real pain, some times i end up pull starting it. When it finaly decides to start it is rather erratic and needs a while to establish good running. The car has for the last year or more only been driven for a few months ie a... MORE
It sure would have been hard to drive the car all the way back home using a 3/8" deepwell socket and 6" extension as a shifter. That is how I got the car to my office. It worked but was a little sloppy. Well it sure is great to have Bugeye buddies right here in my home town. I contacted Rick Kaplan and he fixed me up and I am back on the road again. He took the shifter to his house rewelded it together then pinned it by drilling a hole through it and inserting a 1/4" hardened... MORE
Goodness! A pox on you for not waitting for the rest of us. Lucky Dog! It's 35 and windy here. Now you have something in common with the guy that drives " The Little Nash Rambler ". I did however just get the wifes Sprite out and clean the plugs and also bring in the MGA in to afix the top properly,,,,,, Does this count for anything? Is it possible to get another shifter , heat and bend it to suit your needs? Should you do this it may be necessary to reheat treat it. Any good knife or... MORE
You're right John. I was talking to Bryan last week (as you know), and he was telling me that he had to have his custom tailored for the 5 speed. I'm not sure on he drain plug, but the slave is the main problem Gerard "gerardchateau" 3157... MORE
Extra 3 qts? I figure I still have a couple to go. I have no idea what this setup should have. It's not stock. That big square oil pan you see advertised now & then, well it's got that + an oil cooler and the oil filter and pump are dry. right now the oil level on the dipstick is at the full mark. I'm still debating about even trying to start it with the 10W30 or just using that to get oil through everthing (using the starter to bring the oil pressure up a couple of times) and... MORE
1. Is the small hot lead from the battery neg. terminal and goes to the ign./light switch. ( POS. Earth cars) ( POS for those that are converted to neg. Earth) 2.Is for the heater motor wire harness. 3. Is for a brake pipe clamp. There is another on the other side. 4. Is for the starter pull cable. 5. Is for the temp. capillary tube and bulb and also the oil pressure gauge pipe. 6. Is where the heater control push/pull wire comes through. 7. Is for a clutch pipe clamp. ( See notes) 8. Is the other... MORE
For what its worth!! I have a section on my website showing the most recent engine build i have done, http://designlab.cx Click on the picture of the motor on the left, and the story will appear in the main frame. This is a motor i built up from an *unknown complete* block that i paid $700 ($350 US) for. (but then i am located in the most isolated capital city in the world, so distance = $$) If you have the option to select a motor, I would suggest choosing the A+ motor, over a standard A motor, this... MORE
Brad, Naturally, my first inclination was to re-torque the head when I saw some coolant dripping from the head gasket on the dizzy side. Alas and to my surprise, it made no differennce. I drained the water and proceeded to pull the head. My finding was that the reinforcing/sealing rings at the oil gallery/pushrod passages stood proud on one side of the head gasket and no amount of torquing was going to remedy this. I replaced the head gasket with another new one and all was fine. I agree too with making sure the air pockets have settled out... MORE
Hi Frank, my current arrangement is as follows: 1. hole Wiring harness ground wire to battery 2. Hole for oil pressure pipe 3. Hydraulic pipe line bracket screw hole 4. hole for heater control cable 5. Hole for water temperature pipe 6. Hole for starter cable 7. Hydraulic pipe line bracket screw hole 8. Hydraulic pipe line bracket screw hole 9. screw hole for battery cable ground 10. hole for Speedo cable 11. hole for wiper motor wire 12. ??? I have one too? 13. hole for wiper motor arm 14. not shown? just above #1 to the left... MORE
Bob, I made an error in my advice to use the oil gallery plug on the left side for priming, that plug has been deleted on the 1275, although the boss is still there it is not machined for access.Tthe last eng. I ran on my stand that needed priming was a MM 948 that had been sitting for a trillion years. I seldom need to prime these eng. as I pack the pump w/vasoline and fill the filter first before cranking for the O/P. You may wish to replace the oil cooler (temporarily) with the bypass pipe for... MORE
Hi Rob, I still recommend you add some lubrication to the cylinder as the walls will be very dry if it has been still for a very long time and never run. You can pump in some oil either through the top connecter of the pipe from the oil filter or the pressure relief valve valve right below it. You'll need to withdraw the spring in plunger if you fill through the relief valve. Brad point out the oil gallery plug on the other side too, but I've never tried that location myself. You can change the timing cover... MORE
It turns over by hand without any problem, I had to pull the distributor drive from a 1098 and put it in. That tapping into the fuel pump location sounds like it might be the best way to go. Can it be done with the engine in the car? A 1275 front timing cover could probally be installed with the engine partly in the car. I didn't rebuild this engine so I don't know where the fittings, etc for the oil pump are. How do I prime it. Pour oil in the oil line to the filter bolt? I... MORE
The oil gallery plug is on the L/S at the rear. It is the only one that sits flat in the horizontal position. Just stick a tiny hose into it and try to pour as much oil into it as it will take. You can also use a pump oil can if you have access. I advise a light wt. oil as it will pour more quickly. Let me know what happens but I am off now to church and will not be back til about 10 ish. Brad "Brad Pace" 3102... MORE
Well, you've got to have some sort of crankcase vent, not just so you can fill it with oil, but also to vent the blowby gasses when running. The 1275 doesn't have side covers, so you can't vent from there. I'm not certain about this, and maybe others can advise, but if you have a 948 timing chain cover on a 1275, it may be that you have no vent at all. In that case, pulling the dipstick will still provide a vent so you can fill it with oil and get it to run. You may need to... MORE
