MAIN
Lubrication System
Previous Page | Next Page
I've noticed the last few times I driven the Bugeye that the electric fuel pump(blue Purolator 1-5psi) to ticking more & louder than usual. I can hear it alot when turned on and can even hear it over the engine noise (1380 & headers - so a fair amount of noise) when driving. Normally it ticks loudly when I first turn on power, quiets alot when fuel gets up to regulator or SU, and it not noticable when engine is running. Bad pump? Learn to live with it? Anything I check? Any advice or shared experiences would be appreciated.... MORE
to a "one-wire" alternator (typically Subaru or other). I would like to do alternator locally. I have access to a 2002 Honda Civic 4-pin generator appears that it will work. I've been exchanging e-mails with Frank wiring for a 4-pin conversion. I thought that it might be worth my time to ask if so, how you worked the wiring. "Robert Webb" 9570... MORE
Greetings list, I've read everything I can find about converting the BE generator to a "one-wire" alternator (typically Subaru or other). I would like to do this sort of conversion, but can't find a reasonably price one-wire alternator locally. I have access to a 2002 Honda Civic 4-pin alternator which, upon matching it up to the space for the generator appears that it will work. I've been exchanging e-mails with Frank Clarici of the Spridgit list, but is unsure about the correct wiring for a 4-pin conversion. I thought that it might be worth my time to ask this... MORE
Are you really going to drive in rain, etc., etc., after spending $????? to restore your Bugeye. Bob, Troutdale, OR My windshield wipers work, for a Bugeye, I just perfer not to find out/remember where else it leaked. I do remember that when water is running across the road, don't drive through it unless you have waders on, (your butt gets real wet and when you get home, you have to drive a nail through the floor to let it out, unless you restored it and know that there is a slot that it is suppose to drain out... MORE
Chuck, The gauges you want for your car are as follows; speedo - SN 6155/10 tach RN 2351/02 fuel FG 2530/31 oil/water GD 1502/01 Biff Jones "Biff" 9524... MORE
G'day all Just a couple of tips about adjusting rear brakes and handbrake. Firstly, you MUST totally back off the handbrake before you attempt to adjust the rear brakes. Preferably, remove the clevis pin where the handbrake cable is attached to the compensator mounted to the diff housing. This ensures that the adjustment at the wheels is not interfered with by the handbrake being partly on. After you have adjusted the brakes, you can then re-connect the handbrake and adjust it. You will often find that the clevis pin will no longer fit, and you have to back off... MORE
Well, If all that is aback together right, and it sounds like it is, except for using brake grease on the backing plates, that brings us to the brake cable its's self. Assuming that you have it with one of the nuts on both sides of the "Plate" that it attaches to, It looks like you need a new cable. As big as they are, they streach to where you cannot adjust them to hold, especially after 40 years. They aren't very expensive, but you have to remove the handle to hook the end of the new cable into... MORE
Drained the gearbox this weekend to remove the broken 1st gear tooth. Just as predicted I heard the splash as foreign objects dropped from the draining oil into the bottle. While slowly replacing the 2.8 pints through the gear shift opening (thanks for the tip guys) I put a magnet into the drained oil container and came out, to my surprise, with two =BC" ball bearings, a =BC" X 3/16" long capsule shaped piece of metal and pieces of spring. Not finding anything that resembled a broken gear tooth, I inserted the magnet up through the gearbox drain for... MORE
Bob, Thanks for the quick reply. I'll answer your questions, and maybe even ask a few as well: Did you use the scilacone grease No, I used no lubricant of any kind when putting things back to gether. As I started the rear axle project, I made the mistake of removing the passenger side brake pads, thinking they needed to come off. Fortunately, a quick question to the group set me straight on this, and I did not remove the driver side pads. I put the passenger side pads back on, and quickly found the brake drum would not... MORE
G'day Roget T I NEVER fill the gearbox through the filler hole. It's such a bummer to get to, you spill oil on the carpet, the plug doesn't line up properly when you refit it. In my humble opinion, it's faster, cleaner, and less stressful to do it through the gearstick hole. Pull back the rubber gearstick boot (OK, in later cars you will need to remove 4 self-tappers around the soft vinyl boot), remove the three 7/16" bolts that hold in the gearstick, and lift out the stick. Pour in your oil (2.807 US pints according to the... MORE
The Real Truth about Our Tools HAMMER: Originally employed as a weapon of war, the hammer nowadays is used as a kind of divining rod to locate expensive parts not far from the object we are trying to hit. MECHANIC'S KNIFE: Used to open and slice through the contents of cardboard cartons delivered to your front door; works particularly well on boxes containing seatcovers and motorcycle jackets. ELECTRIC HAND DRILL: Normally used for spinning steel Pop rivets in their holes until you die of old age, but it also works great for drilling mounting holes in fenders just above... MORE
As long as you are being formal Rodger, why don't you call me SIR! Okay just kidding, haha. My real name is Brad and I am near Spokane, Wa. When you refresh your memory on the A series GBX you will find that Colin and I are referring to the lay gear as well as first gear. This is one of the weak points of the GBX, they do not take much 1st gear abuse. While refilling the GBX lube can be a PITA via the usual method you may remove the shifter and add 20/50 slowly until the... MORE
G'day Roger You already know the answer - broken tooth on 1st gear. Which is also engaged when you select reverse. And as Ed suggests - a quick chane into second and it will last quite some time. AS LONG AS you do an oil change in the gearbox NOW. Every chance the broken tooth will be stuck somewhere inside the box (there are built-in ledges to trap the junk) but you might be lucky and have the tooth come out with the oil. Just like a broken tooth in your head - better out than in. Just imagine... MORE
Marcus, these kits are *very* good. Hans' work is excellent (I use his extractors, Stainless racing muffler and K&N filter housing, amongst other things). They aren't cheep though... Driven a Mini with his kit, and driven in (as a passenger) the MGBGT with his kit too. Awesome performance. Mike "Mike Gigante" 9449... MORE
I actually haven't bought the wiring harness yet. I just have the old harness still in the car but it is obviously gotta go. It looks like someone put in only the wires that were needed to thrash my little car around the track. I'm gonna need a really good wiring diagram when the tiime comes to rewire it. Right now, I just want to source parts and the wiring harness is right up at the top of the list. I just wanted to be sure I got what I needed. Someone suggested that I get mine built by... MORE
Having just switched over to a 5-Speed, I have a Ribcase Transmission that was rebuilt by British Masters Racing 2-17-88 and stored dry until 2 years ago when I put it in my Bugeye. I now have 1549 miles on my Bugeye so I would say very little use since their rebuild. The P.O. had them do this reabuild and I have the recept which I can fax to anyone that is insterested in the transmission. The rebuild did not include any gears, but did include sycros, seals, and bearings. If insterested, contact me off line and make offer.... MORE
Then you need to try BRITISH WIRING. Just do a search and you will come up with them. I have used them in the past and they do have a nice product. FWIW there is a new harness on eBay right now with over 4 days left on the auction. If you want to run an alternator and the SU pump British Wiring can accomodate this upgrade. When installing a new harness it is much easier to remove the steering wheel and drop the dash down, don't neglect to disconnect the battery cables and you will also need to... MORE
All: Just to let everyone know, following my recent debacle with a broken half shaft I purchased a used pair off of Ebay and then proceeded to follow the advice from Marcus about reducing the shear by drilling through the shaft. I turned a bushing out of Acetal with the inner diameter to match the bearing diameter of the shaft and the outside diameter to match the inside diameter of the lathe. Added this bushing to ensure that the shaft was supported and straight. Took me 2 hours each half shaft and 6 different lengths of 1/4" diameter drill... MORE
G'day Jon et al I guess I should have added to the last post: If you fit the cast engine plate, it will move the engine and gearbox a little further apart. This means you MUST change the clutch thrust bearing to the later 1098cc, or even 1275cc, style, with the offset locating pins. Otherwise the clutch fork will hit the oval hole in the gearbox case before the clutch pedal is fully depressed. The engine mounts will be out of position by about 3/8", but then the steel mounting bracket has slotted holes anyway. Just loosen the nut... MORE
G'day Rick et al All the suggestions about leaking sump gasket, mis-aligned rear main bearing cap components, blocked breather dump tube, are perfectly good reasons for you to have an oil leak. But here's another possibility. The 948cc engines as fitted to the Bugeye (and Austin A30 and Morris Minor) had a pressed metal engine backing plate. The gearbox attaches through the plate to the engine block around the top, but the lower three bolts and nuts attach the gearbox just to the plate. Obviously, since there's no engine block down there. Now the engine is slung in the... MORE
Colin...(948 pressed backplate..oil leak) Pretty educational post. Never heard of this before. How about that! :) Thanx. Cap'n. Bob '60 :{) PilotRob@... 9381... MORE
The five speed is great. Kind of a new experience to drive at 70 while only turning 3500 RPM's. I have taken some pictures of the instlation that I will post when I get my computer back. It shows Morris Services kit installed. One of my big complaints has been the big gap between the back of the engine and the heater box. I don't know if it was using a "Rally 5 speed" (fifth is lower right) of if it was just the Morris Service kit, there isn't a big gap, if fact with painting the adapter plate... MORE
Someone should get this quick if they want a proper electric fuel pump for thier BE. Mounts are available from the usual suspects. I have an ample supply. Title of item: Vintage NOS Electric Fuel Pump-Austin, MG + Seller: wefindtreasures Starts: Feb-05-04 17:30:07 PST Ends: Feb-12-04 17:30:07 PST Price: Currently $37.09 To bid on the item, go to: http://cgi.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?RedirectEnter&partner=777701&loc=http%3A%2F%2Fcgi%2Eebay%2Ecom%2Fws%2FeBayISAPI%2Edll%3FViewItem%26item%3D2458783895%26category%3D34198%26ssPageName%3DADME%3AB%3AEF%3AUS%3A1 Item Description: Arnley/Becj /Electric Fuel Pump This is a vintage Electric Fuel Pump - ARNLEY/BECK FOREIGN REMANUFACTURED S.U. ELECTRIC FUEL PUMP....It comes in its original package as shown in pics - it fits the following: AUSTIN-HEALEY AUF-20 (INTERCHANGEABLE AUB83), SPRITE... MORE
8oz (such a quaint measure !!!) of oil. Sounds a lot to me. If from the bell housing drain hole , then it must be from the crankseal sc roll(or possibly from the queerbox, does the dipstick show a drop in level? ). So it must then be flung out by the flywheel. Might be worth checking t he clutch for contamination. Hopefully the centrifrugal forces will do thei r stuff but as it is slung out over the full 360 degrees some will be at t he top of the bell housing and could drip onto the clutch... MORE
Hi - I am aware there is no real rear main seal on a 948 - my engine was rebuilt about 1500 miles ago - intially I would lose a few drops of oil at the junction between rear plate on engine and bell housing- then in August I took a long trip of about 500 miles @ "high speed" 50 -65 mph and since then when I shut down I lose much more oil ... in the range of about 8 oz. ... any ideas??? Is this "normal range" of oil loss? Oil pressure is 60lbs when cold... MORE
