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Tire size? Wheel Backspacing? Disc or Drum? Front spring Rate? Driver weight? Rubber or Poly Bushes? Lots of variables, data required for answer. Steve "Stephen P. Mers" 10062... MORE
List: I recently installed a MiniMania panhard rod in the rear of my stock Bugeye. This in addition to refreshing the radius arm bushes on both sides. I did this because I could hear the rear tires rubbing on the inside frame when I turned corners. Well, one or both of these changes fixed my rear tire rubbing problem, but now I have the top of the front tires rubbing on the outer edge of the bonnet when I turn corners. I know stiffening the rear will sometimes shift the geometry to the front. Is this what is happening?... MORE
1959 original condition 948 Bugeye for sale or trade. New front and rear suspension, new drum brakes, master cylinder,rebuilt carbs. Work completed by local master British mechanic. Cosmetically, not too pretty but garage kept. Mechanical restoration work was done first because "chrome don't get you home". Basically, only paint and interior work will finish completion. Florida license tag "buggeye" included. Car is located in West Palm Beach, Florida area. Contact Jeff Bogard at bowguard@... only due to too many tirekickers calling in the past. "moodeebluze" 10051... MORE
Rob, I went through the same thing replacing my springs last year. I purchased new springs from Moss and it was sitting WAY to high. I talked to the guys at Speedwell and they gave me a few tips that worked for me. I used half of the leaves, start with the bottom and use every other one. Then to help lower it more I used a couple of the shortest springs (or if you have some scrap metal) and positioned them at the bottom (between the mount and under the bottom base spring) and an aluminum "wedge" that... MORE
If they are newer springs they may be rally springs. If that is the case, then it will sit way too high. I removed a couple of leaves on mine, then got some front end alignment shims from a truck repair shop. Depending on how much lighter the fiberglass is than the sheet metal, you might want to take out an extra leaf. Good luck. Ed "mowog4" 10034... MORE
I am finishing building a frogeye out of a 1970 midget (fibreglass front and rear) and replaced the rear springs (left all nuts and bolts loose until loaded) with nearly new (purchased on auto jumble 5 leaves 38mm wide 4.35mm thick). With everything bolted up the rear of the car is 225 mm off the floor (9 inches) what could be wrong? Best Regards Rob Batley "rob batley" 10030... MORE
Mike, A 3sum is getting into your area? Is it possible that your Yahoo handle, DogRocker3 is somehow related? Just a simple yes or no will suffice, no detail please! And now... another episode of WHAT NOT TO DO. (Continuing from last season's episode where Hamondale was flailing around under his BE with his finger stuck in the tranny filler hole...) Last Saturday I did some front end work on my BE. Apparently I forgot to tighten the lug nuts beyond what my electric screwdriver does at max torque (which ain't all that much). I could SWEAR I wrenched... MORE
Ron, Thanks for your quick response. I already changed the coil but I will try some of the other options you mentioned. Jan "jan_michel_hd" 9991... MORE
Jan, I know you changed the coil, but is the polarity correct? If wrong, it will give the symptoms you describe. Peter "Peter C." 9995... MORE
Yo Ferris, Welcome to the bugeye board list. These guys are out of their minds as well as being a great source of large and small item genius due to all their experience. Dis is da place!! EVERYONE: My question (meager as it may be): On my 58 bugeye ... I have the little Top Frame ASSY storage goodies that you use in the summer when the top is down. (You know: The little 2" or 3" rectangular pieces with a round hole in the top that you insert the top frame in for storage.) Having said that, I'm... MORE
Hi, Just just `joined the group' and thought I'd introduce myself. Name's 'Ferris'. I live in Wallington, Surrey (South London, UK) and recently acquired a 1960 leaf-green frog. She's completely restored, but has unfortunately been sitting in dry storage for 7 years without much TLC. Hence all gaskets, seals and lube have dried out, some of the electrics points have corroded, etc.... all those little things I've been busy adjusting! She is nevertheless a good runner and beautifully restored. I am, however, only just finding my way around at the moment and realise I don't know who's best around... MORE
Early cars with Morris Minor steering racks were DEFINITELY aluminum, and NOT painted or plated. Later cars (as stated below) with _Triumph_ steering racks WERE stamped steel AND Cad plated. Gerard "gerardchateau" 9961... MORE
Aaaahhhhhh no, sorry George. The steering rack clamps are cast aluminium, and they were neither painted nor plated. They were left as plain aluminium castings. avagoodday Colin "Colin@SpriteParts" 9951... MORE
Hi, I've just `joined the group'. I've already introduced myself to the midget-sprite group, so any of you on both groups... please forgive the tedium of repetition! I'm in Wallington, Surrey, UK and have not long acquired a 1960 leaf- green frog. Shes been thoroughly restored, but unfortunately has been sitting in a garage for 7 years ever since so all gaskets, seals, lube, etc. have dried out and some of the points have corroded. Hence!... I've been busy trying to bring her back to ship-shape. She's running ok for the moment (although I think I now also need... MORE
George replied : They were unpainted zinc plated. Not bright. Thanks George, I'm just assembling a bunch of parts for some buckshee plating. A PO had painted them black on the midget but I could see traces of some sort of plating around the bolt holes. And will be using RHD midget rack to convert the the LHD Frogeye, might as well get it right if I got thechance - but I'mnot an originality freak generally speaking !!!! No Pics in Horlers book, other ref. / restoration books show them in a rough cruddy state. Thanks . Alan "alan.east-jones"... MORE
Thanks Gerard I now know what to call the front end I've had for 30 years. The PO wanted $50 and I had just replaced all the sheet metal of the front end, so it seamed like a bargain. It has never been mounted. Paul Van Wig "Paul Van Wig" 9956... MORE
Hi Were the steering clamps originally painted or bright zinc plated? (the same as the door latch plates for instance) For 59 Frogeye cheers Alan "Alan" 9940... MORE
The culprit appears to be the little spring-loaded doohicky that sits beneath the horn button on the steering wheel. The bakelite casing is cracked and a bit broken and the metal contact appears worn. Is that the likeliest culprit? I haven't done all the electrical continuity testing yet. Going for the quick fix. And yeah, I already ordered the part. Finally, anyone know a parts place in Boston? I'm going to Moss but figure there must be someone more local. "Alan" 9937... MORE
all.. i'm happy to report that i managed to track down the root cause of the power problem in my newly rebuilt engine.... after ticking off the pain points, one by one, i came to the finding that my distributor was shot. and i didn't even know it. seems it has several problems: (1) the rotor arm tube was gummed up and sticking to the dizzyshaft so it would not smoothly rotate thru its travel arc. and (2) one of the advance weight springs was broken and the other was stretched. so proper advance was nill. so what i... MORE
Sorry guys - couldn't help myself! avagoodday Colin Follow these 15 simple tests before you decide to have children. . ..or if you already have them I'm sure it'll will bring back fond memories! Test 1 Women: To prepare for maternity, put on a dressing gown and stick a beanbag down the front. Leave it there for 9 months. After 9 months remove 10% of the beans. Men: To prepare for paternity, go to local chemist, tip the contents of your wallet onto the counter and tell the pharmacist to help himself. Then go to the supermarket. Arrange to... MORE
Thanks for the help from all so far. Found that the voltage is holding up fine when I crank. At this point I'm getting no spark at all. Found my hot to the touch coil was seeping a little oil out the +V terminal. Tried another coil of unkown functionality and still no spark. I'm going to thoroughly follow all the wires to make sure I'm not missing anything, then probably follow Bob's advice and try a crain 700 system. I'm not aware of any external resistor in my set up. How do I know what I need? Maybe... MORE
I found the source of the wisp of smoke from the starter area to be that the 3 wire connector between the distributer and ignition module (Howard Assoc. of Costa Mesa Ca.) was sometimes shorting against the +12 Volts to the starter (neg. earth set up). It's no longer in a position to short, But I still loose ignition after I start to crank. Think I cooked the ignition box? If so, what would be the hot choice to replace it? Supose a new Lucas sport coil would be a good idea while I'm at it? Cheers, Curt "cfisher1a"... MORE
Hi guys, Very happy to report I now have a good clue to the hard/no start problem on my full race 948 set up. Noticed that after a few seconds of cranking and some coughs while the motor nearly started, the ignition light went out. Pulled a plug and sure enough, Nice spark for a few seconds of cranking, then the ignition light goes out and nothing. on subsequent tried the light goes out immediatly when cranking and no spark at all. After cooling for a while I get the light and spark for a few seconds again. The... MORE
You don't say what make your existing coil is, at least I do not recall rea ding it. Why don't you just use a Lucas Sport Coil, it is wired direct to h ot and does not require a resister? In use coils have a tendency to get very warm anyway. For a proper test yo u need to use a coil tester, perhaps you can remove your and take it to a s hop that has one? Then perhaps you will know for sure the condition of your existing one. BC ********************* "British Classics" 9913... MORE
Is this a coil that requires an external resistor? "Paul Asgeirsson" 9910... MORE
