Braking System

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G'day Jeremy I can supply a "pedal pivot repair kit" (two sintered bronze bushes and a new pivot bolt) for $24 USD including postage. regards Colin "Colin@SpriteParts" 22676... MORE

Jeremy, et al. Any good machine shop should be able to make you a set of bushings for your pedal pivot points. I have made numerous bushings for other applications out of a porduct called (in the business) Oil-lite (sp) is a medium hardness red brass alloy impregnated with oil. We have used it here at the plant for years for babbit type bearings on applications much more demanding than our brake pedals. Just my tuppence worth. David A. Stevens Jr. Utilities Engineer II NYS Office Of General Services Sheridan Avenue Steam Plant 79 Sheridan Avenue Albany, NY 12210... MORE

A question for the New World listers. The bushes for dual master cylinder pedals 2A5564 has been out of stock (in fact absent from price lists) in the UK for over a decade. Do any of the US (or maybe Antipodean) suppliers claim to stock it. There is so much play in my pedals I think the bushes may well have disintegrated by now. J. "Jeremy Cogman" 22667... MORE

On my 1275 I hooked the steel mesh pad out with a piece of bent wire. Washed it and the cannister out in petrol, rinsing repeatedly, and stuffed it back in again. These cars were made to be simple. They come from an era, long gone unfortunately, before the "throw away society" was thought of. Guy "Guy Weller" 22659... MORE

It's full of a coarse steel wool - kind of like a Brillo pad (steel pan scouring pad) but without the soap 8^) Difficult to clean thoroughly and effectively I would have thought - I read somewhere that the best "cleaning" is to cut the canister in half, clear out the contents (inc. mesh) and weld back up, leaving the can empty! Me , I'm replacing the whole timing cover complete with new canister on my 1275 rebuild. Steve "Steve Clark" 22656... MORE

As there was a thread recently regarding front end alignment, beginning with message 22461, I have posted a couple of photos of a simple apparatus that I used this week to estimate and rough-in the toe in on my Sprite this week, in case it might be useful. The apparatus comprises a 48" construction ruler, and a pair of 18" x 24" L squares. The short legs of the L squares are clamped to the opposite ends of the ruler, such that the long legs extend outwardly from the ruler and parallel to each other, such edges being separated... MORE

it's not unknown for flexible hoses to collapse internally, and if yours have done so, I wouldn't recommend trying to clean them out, junk them and replace with new. If there is gunk in the solid pipes, I'd use methylated spirits (not sure of the US translation for this - ethanol? denatured alcohol?) to flush it through then blow dry with dry compressed air, as the brake parts cleaner might be a bit harsh if left in contact with the seals for any great length of time. Regards David "David Jacobs" 22579... MORE

Does anyone have any ideas for flushing clogged brake lines on a 1972 MGB? I have thought about brake parts cleaner or compressed air or maybe even a combination of both. At this point I am unable to get fluid from reservoir to wheels by applying pedal pressure with known good master cylinder. Setup is dual tandem, non servo type. Thanks, Warren "nipper6579" 22577... MORE

I was wondering the correct engine starting procedure for a 1972 MGB 1800CC 4spd w/electric fuel pump and twin SU carbs. I can usually get it to start with manual choke on third try after pump stops clicking without touching the acceelerator pedal. I was wondering what the original owners manual said, if anything. The car was recently given to me and it has become my duty to bring it back to order. I have rebuilt and adjusted the carbs as well as performed normal tune-up procedures. Your help is appreciated! "nipper6579" 22575... MORE

Does anyone have any idea where I might find a roll bar for a '63 Sprite? I'm not going racing or anything like that, I'm just trying to recreate the look of a car that I had in college. I'd like to be able to put the top up if I have to.(though I haven't yet) Everything I've seen is for later models. Also, Colin, if you're out there, did I mention that the master cylinder had already been re- sleeved and the rebuild kit worked fine? Thanks for the info. Thanks, Jack Texas "austinbud2002" 22541... MORE

Actually pure water would in theory work in a hydraulic brake system, but has some practical disadvantages! It boils at too low a temperature. Boiling hydraulic fluid creates gas (steam) which is compressible so your brakes go spongy. It would also cause rusting of cylinder walls, pistons etc. It wouldn't lubricate the rubber parts as well. So although it would work, it wouldn't be much good. DOT 4 will actively attract and absorb moisture over time, but when under pressure the absorbed water will unabsorb back into water droplets, cause rusting, turn to steam and become compressible. Silicone won't... MORE

Dave.... The only time air enters the lines is if you let the master cyl. get too low or allow it to go empty. It's all done by gravity and while gravity is doing the work, your's truly is enjoying the sunshine and applying himself to "other activites", while keeping his eye on the ball, in the aforementioned respect! Do not allow yourself to become distracted or diverted with "Oh, honey...." stuff!! :):) Cap'n. Bob '60 :{) PilotRob@... 22504... MORE

"There is a whole lot in between" Exactly...which is why it is difficult to comment on this. Why did the PO simply leave the car there? Did it run at all? You know how ozone affects rubber.... especially rubber as in "seals" in terms of hydraulics which need to be kept "wet" to "live". In this respect, I would expect to renew a lot of stuff right off the bat just to "be sure", most especially when it came to brakes. A better question might be what would be a fair price for a painted tub with a new... MORE

Yep, David... The new cars are definitely far better "runners" for sure. They run efficently on 87 unleaded PON and polute not and are much more safe than ever before BUT.....they are anything but user friendly when it comes to maintenance. They are expensive as hell to maintain when they have a problem. Simply opening up the taps at each wheel and the clutch slave with an empty beer can at each "tap" and waiting for the fluid (drip, drip, drip...slowly but surely as they drain simultaneously at the same time) in the MC to fall to almost the... MORE

Well... I don't think he is pulling your leg, David... rather, I think there is a misunderstanding. Moisture in brake fluid is, as far as I know, a bad thing in any event. Non-silicone fluids hold moisture in suspension whereas the silicone stuff does not. So, you could say silicone, by allowing the moisture to puddle at system low points (like the calipers wherein the moisture can cause corrosion!) keeps the moisture "away" from the rubber seals? Which one is worse when it comes to corrosion, is anyone's guess insofar as your's truly has no idea!! Loods like your... MORE

There was a thred a little while ago where the subject of DOT 4 brake fluid was discussed, especially brands other than Castrol GTLMA. Here is a short list of the other brands of DOT 4 that are available: 1)Radiator Specialty (also known as Gunk / Solder Seal) M45-12 or M45-12/6 (12 oz.) M45-35 (32 oz.) 2)Wagner FC120838 (12 oz) FC120839 (32 oz) 3)Raybestos APF-124 (12 oz) APF-14 (32 oz) I hope this helps those of you unable to source the Castrol Chris 60 Sprite et al "miguy1950" 22476... MORE

Guys... Much too early to tell....we're jumping the gun yet, the government is under pressure with respect to the producing of WMD evidence so I'm sure we'll hear from them in the coming week or so. The people we've captured over there do not know that Saddam and his sons are dead so....I doubt they're doing a lot of "talking" except to "mis-direct". I know I'd feel "less than secure" in their shoes for sure, and I Iraq is a big country in terms of the fact we are looking for needles in a haystack, so to speak. But... MORE

"The car has a manual 5speed in good condition. Has new radiator,tires (on 280zx rims), and hoses.Motor is bad. Body has rust. Be a good parts car or restoration project. $300 obo. Also have other motor parts for building a motor (pistons,block,etc.) I am located in Cocoa, FL. (321)638-407 or email huxeric@... " DLancer7676@... 22427... MORE

Actually, Jeremy... The crankcase pressure is in and of itself the propellent in a "ventilated" rather than "evacuated" system, the former of which I prefer for exactly the reason you state in your post to Guy Weller....less dilution of already diluted octanes. Fr'instance, I think it was Chris who mentioned dragsters with vacuum pumps hooked up to evacuate crankcase pressure and considering THEIR applications I can well nigh understand this, considering THEIR crankcase pressures!! Whoa, whoa!! :) Obviously, for the normal LBC daily driver this would be overkill but the point is made, though we are talking apples and... MORE

Well, Chris... Intelligent routing of "ventilation hoses" (vertical travel) and/or a draught tube run off a "catch can" makes "liquid pollution" a thing of the past in any case. I don't know what everbody else looks for when they check their oil level at least once a week but, I know what I look for besides oil level. The reek of gasoline is all pervading, believe me! If you are not smelling this (it pervades the atmosphere around and within the car, especially on older vehicles which is our subject) or noticing a definite drop off in performance while... MORE

I was asked to pass this along to this list, what do you folks think?? Brad Can you clean up what I am writing here and post this to the Midget Yahoo list please. I am not on it. Any reply's I send there bounce. Subject: The GOLDEN Sprite ***************************************************** Rick Moses, coordinator of the every five years Sprite anniversary gatherings proposed a question......... Why not have, "the list," any individuals, sports car garages and those interested, restore a Bugeye Sprite? When it is completed we can sell raffle tickets for this car and give it away the last... MORE

G'day all The clutch line is the same as the brake line. And use plated steel fittings. Now fuel pressure - that's an interesting topic to raise. SU carbies were designed to run with 2.5 to 3 psi of fuel pressure, delivered as it happens via an SU fuel pump. With any more than 3 psi, the fuel can force it's way past the needle and seat in the carbies, fill the float bowl and flood the engine. You might notice the carby flooding, and change the needle and seat to solve the problem, but it is likely that... MORE

G'day Nigel Yes, use cupro nickel, unless you can get some of the original cadmium plated steel lines. Under no circumstances should you use copper. As you say, it "work hardens" and becomes brittle. We see this most often at the very edge of one of the fittings. There can often be a sharp bend or crease at the edge of the fitting, if unsufficient care has been taken when the pipes were bent. Of course, being softer, this is more likely in the copper pipe. The brake line is 3/16" thick wall tube (to take the brake line... MORE

on cars with electric pumps, the fuel line doesn't have any threaded fittings, just push fit/clamped flexible hoses at each end. David "David Jacobs" 22273... MORE

Chris, Interesting comments. The standard UK set-up has no pcv valve, the hoses just connect direct to vent fittings on the carb barrels. I still feel that the term crankcase "vent" is wrong. It sort of implies that the purpose is to allow excess gasses from the crancase to find their way out. In reality, the system is a much more active "extraction" process, whereby the induction system positively pulls gasses out, creating a negative crancase pressure. Guy "Guy Weller" 22260... MORE