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Don't waste your time at this stage removing the gas tank. A '73 should have a drain plug, but if it doesn't, buy yourself a hand-pump siphon for $10 or so. You can also easily remove the rubber hose connection between the filler neck and the tank opening (inside the trunk). Use a flashlight, not electric lamps to inspect. you don't want to take the chance of a spark igniting gas fumes. You will almost certainly need to disassemble the carbs and floats before it will runs, as well as the brake and clutch system. Once you hand crank... MORE


Well, shes been sitting for 8 to 10 yrs, only my aging back caused me to quit driving! British Racing Green(originally mallard green)with tan seats. Heres my plan, Squirt marvel mystery oil down the spark plug holes to prepare the engine for a hand turnover via the fan blade bolt and a long ratchet(hope its not too hard to turn). I tried inflating to flat tires and only two inflated. I guess I will have to take the wheels off to get the other two to inflate as tubeless bead arent making a good seal, maybe I can just... MORE


As for SUV's, Ryan... I really don't care what the other guy chooses to drive or spend his hard-earned cash on. I have witnessed two accidents with SUV's on limited access highways (60-65). In each case the driver applied the brakes as he "cut" the wheel to avoid the guy ahead of him and........ immedately rolled over and came down on his roof on everbody ahead. I do not believe the propensity these vehicles have for rolling over in this fashion in a heartbeat as they slow to 40 quickly and barely touch the guy ahead of them as... MORE


I will keep that in mind. I do use the hi-temp brake grease (non Lucas) and agree that the whole idea of grease and brakes don't seem to mix :) "Israel Engle" 17050... MORE


I've been using NAPA Silicone grease for the backing plates and would probably work here too. Especially since I am using silicone brake fruid. Bob, Portland, OR "Robert Webb " 17040... MORE


".....brake fruid"? Just great! Frank is doing a "69" and for some reason gets a Mityvac involved in the act, and now Bob in Portland is talking about silicone and "fruid". I think I'll turn on the Playboy Channel... Cap'n. Bob (Ret'd) '60 Frog PilotRob@... 17042... MORE


From my own apparent ignorance, may I ask why? I have always used a bit-o-grease just about any time I needed a little long-lasting lube including the pistons while rebuilding calipers - no ill effects that I have ever experienced first hand. Israel "Israel Engle" 17038... MORE


Good Morning All, Thanks for all the responses much appreciated. However it now gives me great pleasure to announce tonight's winner........... Well actually it's you all but special mention must go to Gerard who got it in 1, actually he got it in 4 but let's not split hairs! Checked fuses and all were fine, checked switch and all not looking quite so fine, in fact looking positively cruddy. Off comes the pedal cover and out comes the spray lube and 2 minutes later we have brake lights. Liberal doses of lube applied to both sides of the switch... MORE


If you are very lucky, some penetrating/lubricating oil might get you by... 5. The difficulty is, you can't unscrew the switch without at least loosening ALL the pedal box fixing screws. This is because the switch is oblong and won't clear the sheet metal of the inner fender without raising the box up. If you try to force it, you will likely break the switch (no pun intended). 6. It is possible, depending on your patience and skill level, to disassemble the switch and make it work again. (I have done it, no problem) Replacements should also be available.... MORE


My mistake, my books only go to 1980 and they show only 1 wire, Green w/purple stripe to the brake lites from the brake lite switch with a connector on the right hand side and a wire going to both lites. Bob, Portland, OR a fuse fuses in the failures for "Robert Webb " 16986... MORE


Hi all, Just had a panicky call from my wife informing me that her brake lights on our 1500 don't work (her daily driver). Going to swing by Halfords on the way home but being at work and without my Haynes I have no idea what rating? Could anyone help? Also I'm aware that it could also be the switch itself that has packed up, does anyone have any diagnostic tips? Have to get this done tonight before she goes to work tomorrow or my life will not be worth living :-) Thanks in advance, AW Newcastle UK ****************************************************************************... MORE


In answer to your question about aviation, I very much regret to say that my answer must be in the negative. :-( I always wanted to be a pilot, but due to a small problem with the differentiation of very pale red/green I was never allowed to sit at the sharp end of one of those rather beautiful machines that fly, at least, not in the services, and all the other jobs were a bit of a let down after that. One of the things that I have always wanted to do. A bit senior for it now. As... MORE


I hace a Mk 2 , with discs and it is very difficult to lock up the brakes, except in the wet, but then you leave more space, don't you ;-) Must say the ABS in my present workaday car have kinda converted me, but I always used to hate ABS .... "Roger Stinson" 16920... MORE


So it goes with the original 7/8" master cylinder, Bob Irwin. The later 3/4" type Mk ll set-up would provide more pressure with less effort. I, too was considering a switch over to a 3/4" bore, in consideration of the effort required after going over to discs. Then I considered the problem of maintaining directional control in "panic" stop situations as a consequence of "locking them up". Especially in view of the fact you never have to worry about exerting too much pressure in a "panic stop".....it's instinctively "automatic". And that's exactly "the problem", most especially with power brakes.... MORE


I assume that I do have the original master cylinder. I don't know how to tell until I take it apart. Would replace it with the 3/4", but they seem to be hard to come by. Clearly two master cylinders would be better - do they fit in the space of the one original? Any ideas on where I could get one and where I can find instructions on how to install it. Thanks Bob rlirwn@... 16902... MORE


I have a 1960 Bugeye with original brakes on the back and disk brakes on the front. Last year I rebuilt the calipers, put on new pads, rotors, hoses, brake shoes, and rear brake cylinders. In short, I think I did everything I can except the master cylinder. The brakes are orders of magnitude better than when I started. However, I still have to push pretty hard to get the car to stop, and a "panic" stop would be difficult. Is this just the nature of the sprite brakes, or am I likely to get significant improvement by replacing... MORE


Yeah..Bree... I AM getting more weird every day, no doubt about it...runs in the family. What can I say? On the other hand........ how else could it BE when I belong to car lists where the topic of the day is the male organ....I mean I've heard of organ accelerator pedals but, the male organ as a car part? I musta missed this somehow... I'll have to look this one up in my official Spridget Maintenance Manual, Part #AKM 2092...Let's see....is it "M" for "male", "C" for "cockpit" or "P" for.....(this is all very confusing...}:0-< Cap'n. Bob (Ret'd) '60... MORE


Mine rests on the inner wing, somewhere in the vicinity of the coil. One of these day's I'll probably make a bracket for it but for the past three years it's just sat there, held in place by the hoses. "Jeremy Cogman" 16832... MORE


apparently it's similar in form to a BSP thread, but not identical. Don't oil coolers use parallel threads not tapered, to go with the cone and swivel fittings on the hoses? Cheers David "David Jacobs" 16813... MORE


Bill, I recently bought new hex-headed bolts for my 1275 to replace unsightly PO-installed stuff. (I hadn't even thought of looking for Allen-headed cap screws, but now like the idea). Anyway, they are definitely NOT metric but ARE American National Fine, so your 20 TPI bolt sample is correct. The 11mm bolt previously used is close, but no cigar. 11mm = .433", slightly less than 7/16" (.4375") BUT the 11mm thread pitch is 1.5mm (.059") or approx 17 TPI , i.e. a bit coarser than the correct 7/16" X 20 TPI (.05" pitch). All this to say that the... MORE


I am fitting the late 1500cc twin circuit master cylinder to my 1275cc but I can not source a new push rod. Can any one tell me what the length of the push rod should be from say centre of pivot point to end of rod as I hope to manufacture one this weekend. "Peter Whittle" 16768... MORE


I have my 1500 rolled over and ready to go to the shop to be sandblasted if anyone wants to look and offer any advice the pictures are at http://photos.yahoo.com/smquandt in the MG folder. Also it would seem to be much easier to re-install the suspension, gas tank, fuel and brake lines with the car rolled over. Has anyone ever done that? Does anyone see a problem doing that? Thanks Steve Quandt "Steve Quandt" 16769... MORE


Unfortunately I don't have too many tips on fitting the oil cooler. After much deliberation, it just seemed to WANT to go where it is now. I had to take off most of the bottom flange for it to fit between the rails. It's not being held there by any bolts - only being held down beneath the captured nuts in the rails. I fabricated the upper support myself just from some spare aluminium. The air scoop is being held there also be just the pressure of the oil cooler sitting on to of it, so I guess those... MORE


You know, Dave Jacobs... That's what I thought, too. Figured an A or B box with 1st locked out, but the Metropolitan's box has a non-synchro first and is column mounted instead. Maybe it's an A or B box with 4th locked out through a higher diff? I am not knowing but supposedly, this is all standard Austin A 50 running gear according to Slightly Classics. The truck-like floor mounted handbrake on the extreme left side of the driver's compartment (LHD) was sort of unexpected, as well. Very cool little car! Cap'n. Bob (Ret'd) '60 Frog PilotRob@... 16680... MORE


I have recently had the engine out to replace gearbox and whilst at it changed the cam shaft (1275cc) and the fan and the front brakes to extra large disks and callipers and the diff and propshaft and .................. (Another casualty of while it is in bits story). Obviously I have had the sump off this has been replaced with new gaskets and rubber front and back half moon seals.Previously we had no oil leaks now it don't exactly drip but dribble. I know I will have to take the sump off again but any ideas how to get... MORE