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Andy, Some thoughts as to possible problems: 1. Expansion tank pressure cap replaced? 2. Rad may APPEAR good but may still be somewhat blocked internally. Need to do "internal volume check", but this would entail taking rad off, of course. I have rad off my '71 1275, plus another "good as new" to replace it. Could easily fill it/them and give you fluid quantity info. Fins on rad in good shape? Not blocked up with dead bugs etc? 3. Water pump impeller may have little left re "vanes", so not circulating flow strongly enough. 4. Ignition may be too... MORE


I just "exploded" a starter solenoid in my 76 MG Midget... not sure why it "POPPED" like it did... It happened when I put a battery charger on my battery isolater to charge both the front and the rear (dedicated to the stereo) batterys... Anyhow... I got the solenoid off of my donor car, also a 76... to put in... but this one is missing a terminal on it. The one that "blew up" had a 4 spade connectors on it... two with double brown wires, one set going to the fuse box, the other coming from the alternator... MORE


I installed the Rivergate conversion two months ago. It is great. It uses a late 1979-1981 Datsun 210 5 spd transmission. No cutting on the Spridget body or frame. I had to bang on the heater duct a bit. The kit comes with adapter plate, rear main oil seal, front u joint, rear motor (transmission) mount. I had to grind a bit on the transmission housing and cut a hoel for the starter. I used the original clutch slave cylinder and had to re-route the hydraulic tubing. Took me a few hours, but what a difference! The car drives... MORE


TO: Tony P. tloutrec@... is a partner (I believe) in a firm specializing in quality rebuilt calipers. (as Peter C. of nosimport is with quality Armstrong shock rebuilds). Both obviously know their respective business. Cap'n. Bob '60 :{) PilotRob@... 13001... MORE


To sender, name unknown: Absolutely excellent piece of detective work. I'm putting a copy into my "reference file" in case of similar problems with my Midget or any other old/disc-brake car. Congrats., Tony P. "anthony pooley" 12999... MORE


Last night I was asked to diagnose a Spridget brake problem of excessive pedal travel, and ran across something which proved very elusive. The car had lots of pedal travel, nearly to the floor. All of the mechanical parts were in good shape - no significat wear in the pedal bushes, clevis, push rod, etc. The push rod was properly adjusted and the rears were adjusted to the point of just scuffing. There were no signs of fluid leak or leak down. The system had been pressure and vacuum bled several times. Still there was the long and scary... MORE


Lon, DON'T USE BRAKE FLUID! Brake fluid is corrosive. Yes it will eat paint. There is a product available called Black Magic that is a rubber moisturizer that I find works great. It leaves rubber a rich black but once dry, is not shiney like Armourall (which actually draws moisture OUT of rubber and plastic). I've used it for a couple years now with no ill effects and keeps the rubber from getting hard. Gerard "gerardchateau" 12893... MORE


Aaaargh, you split a caliper, everyone know you'll burn in hell for that! Only joking, they look great but goodness only knows how much to get them to this side of the Atlantic. "Jeremy Cogman" 12833... MORE


After all this talk about junk rebuilt shocks, I'd like to pass along something I've been learning. As some of you may recall my partner and I have embarked on a program to do superior rebuilt MGB and Spridget brake calipers. As part of our learning process, we bought one caliper from each of several USA rebuilders. What we found in them was the stuff of horror stories - old rusted and badly scored pistons, hardware store o-rings substituted for the proper fluid channel seals, partially stripped, rusty old bridge bolts, paint over old rust and grime. There's some... MORE


Yes, I would have guessed Apple Hydraulics also. PeterC. is the man...... kna331@... 12783... MORE


I just finished putting rebuilt shocks on the front of my 74 midget. After only one month one of them has lost all of it's fluid. I've heard that they aren't very reliable but please... One Month? What are my options for reliable shocks? "darre1l" 12776... MORE


Cap'n Bob Wow! You hit the nail right on the head! I hope I never again lock my brakes up or experience the feeling that comes along with it! I had absolutely no control as I slid into the lorry that entered the wet roundabout, right in front of me. Had I not 'locked 'em up' I could have easily cut to the inside of him. Thank god no injuries and just a slight push-in of the front bumper. But, I gotta tell ya, heading for his fuel tank was not a good feeling. Instead, I bounced of his... MORE


Greg- Unless your involved in a "panic stop", they won't lock up.....and you don't want them to....and either did the manufacturer who "sized" the brakes to the vehicle accordingly. Consider the thinking and reasoning behind modern day Automatic Braking Systems (ABS). The quickest stop is performed at the threshold of wheel lock-up. ABS keeps the tire slightly "rolling" (just short of lock-up) to achieve this, which by the way allows the driver to remain in control, directionally speaking. Once "skidding" of a tire begins, friction with the surface is gone....and so is your ability to "stop" along with the... MORE


Proportioning valve? There isn't one on a bugeye. I converted my Bugeye to discs, using a 7/8" dual master cylinder, and everything worked just fine, but as did PilotRob, I simultaneously rebuilt everything else. There must be many hundreds, if not thousands of these which have been converted, no problems. Later on I changed to the 3/4" mc, which reduced the pedal effort, but the conversion works fine with either. If your conversion isn't working well, there is something wrong. Maybe several things. "tloutrec" 12712... MORE


I did the same conversion and kept the original "2 in 1" master cylinder arrangement and have no trouble stopping at all. Of course, I also upgraded to steel lines all around and replaced the rear shoes (drums were re-surfaced and within spec) and brake cylinders at the same time. The pedal effort seems to be more or less the same as on my previous '67 and '74 Spridgets. Cap'n. Bob '60 :{) PilotRob@... 12708... MORE


Maybe I missed it .. on the 25th is the vote? of is it Birthday time on the 25th? The magic, but unfair for sure, 60th? How does it work..can still fly like fedex or cargo or..charter? did some barrel flying (50gal fuel drums). in a 210 out of Galena AK to Ruby. Those with better tickets ( comm rating and better) were flying for BLM -fire jumpers, dropping sand bags on the yukon at bend points and flying more cargo in larger a/c's ..and making mega bucks and seemed to be having fun.. great country..tad cold in the... MORE


If your brakes are unsatisfactory, chances are there are other problems with your setup than the MC. Are your pads ad rear brakes shoes of a good quality? Are your rear brakes adjusted so that you e-brake only takes a few clicks to lock up? is your pedal too hard or spongy? What condition are your rotors? Is you current MC leaking of have old seals. The later type branching valve is a tandem two line system that is a fail-safe if part of the system fails. It will not change your braking much (if at all) and not... MORE


Hello again Bill, It's so long since had a running "points" vehicle that I had forgotten whether it's divide or multiply 8-cyl reading. So I went down to the household "nerve center" to check. I have a Micronta tach/dwell meter (possibly of Radio Shack origin) COMPLETE WITH INSTRUCTION MANUAL, would you believe? Anyway, answer is multiply 8-cyl reading by 2. With regard to engine running versus being cranked, my view is this check is valid ONLY if the engine is running at a good stable idle - specs should say at what RPM you should do the check -... MORE


Need some help here... I have a 61 bugeye that was converted to disc brakes. It has the original master cyl. split system with clutch. The porportioning valve is the stock one for drum brakes. The question is should I rip the pedal setup and two line system with seperate brake and clutch systems out of a newer midget or can get by with a adjustable valve from a after-market hotrod shop? Or can I T the one line system into a newer porportioning valve? The brakes are a little unsatisfactory as they are now. Thanks Greg "amxpate1" 12686... MORE


Just wanted to thank all you folks who gave me some insight about my Master Cylinder. I bleed the system today using the Mighty Vac and I was really pleased. I didn't need anyone to pump the brakes. The only problem was I had to keep getting up and checking the fluid level. I think this is the first time I have had a good solid brake pedal, not to mention that the clutch actually works. Thanks Folks Joe Shaw "healeyman60" 12682... MORE


Just wanted to thank all you folks who gave me some insight about my Master Cylinder. I bleed the system today using the Mighty Vac and I was really pleased. I didn't need anyone to pump the brakes. The only problem was I had to keep getting up and checking the fluid level. I think this is the first time I have had a good solid brake pedal, not to mention that the clutch actually works. Thanks Folks Joe Shaw "healeyman60" 12681... MORE


I've used the miti vac for a few years. One issue I've come across is drawing air through the threads on the bleeder. Looks just like bubbles coming from the brake cyl. I generally enlist my wife's help for a final bleeding, using the pedal push method. Mike '62 Sprite schicmg@... 12665... MORE


The two hydraulic systems are completely independent. Effectively the two m/cs are just cast in the same unit and share a reservoir thought there is a low level divider so a leak in one system cannot drain the other. I'd do the clutch first as it's a PITA and nice therefore to get it out of the way! "Jeremy Cogman" 12657... MORE


Joe, It really does not make a difference which one you bleed first since they are each independent lines. I would go with the easier of the tasks first and do the brakes. Then go on to the slave. Keep an eye one the fluid level in the master after every 3-4 strokes of the pedal or however the vac system extracts fluid. Also start bleed process with furthest cylinder from master. Rear right wheel, left rear, front right and front left. Hope this helps. Let me know how the miti-vac thing works. Mike kna331@... 12661... MORE


Hi All, I am about to bleed the hydraulic system on my 948 Bugeye. It has the dual throw master cylinder and I was wondering if it makes any difference if I bleed the clutch slave first or should I do the brakes first, then the slave?? I finally broke down and bought one of those Mighty Vac bleeders so I am anxious to see if it performs up to all the hype. Any and all suggestions appreciated. Thanks for your help, Joe Shaw UpState NY "healeyman60" 12652... MORE