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Hi guys I was originally intending to replace my brake and fuel lines with copper, but I've recently read that copper can become brittle through vibration. I'd like something more durable than the original steel pipes, and understand that Cupro-Nickel pipes are a good replacement over the original steel ones, albeit more expensive than copper or steel. Any thoughts on this? I noticed that the fuel pipe was a larger bore size than the brake pipe which I assume is 3/16", what size then is the fuel line - 1/4" ? And finally does anyone know what thread size... MORE
The scroll on the rear of the crank is an archimedes screw, like a coarse screw thread. As the crankshaft rotates, it tends to "screw" the oil back into the crankcase. The only way to stop rear crank leaks is to maintain negative crankcase pressure. All the various factory crankcase vent systems did this one way or another. On my car ('68 engine) the front cover vent hose runs to the carbs between the piston and butterfly, thus is always under slight negative pressure whenever the engine is running. To prove a point, I once rerouted this vent hose... MORE
David, surprised that you havn't come across this stuff - its been around for years. Locktight make a range of these engineering adhesives. The common one is a blue fluid used extensively to stop nuts vibrating loose, but they also make several grades of adhesive for associated applications. One such is designed for fitting bearings and typical purpose would be to prevent an outer race turning in its housing (eg for wheel hubs) This is what I used for the 1500 thrust washers. I don't know if it made a difference but it was easier than pinning and I... MORE
Hi, Bill.... Ok....we don't know what sort of a rebuild job was done on the engine. Judging by the "tone" of the contents of your mail, probably not a very concientious one with respect to assembly anyway, it seems. That "scroll" rear engine area needs pretty close tolerancing as well as siliconing of the half moon gaskets back there or it will leak to one extent or another I am told, even on a new engine producing minimal blow-by. Speaking of which....what sort of shape is the engine in (mechanically speaking) in this respect? Compression, leakdown, etc.? "Blue" exhaust?... MORE
Oh...and one other thing, Max.... make sure the heater tap is open at all times to prevent hot water getting "trapped" at the back of the block, in terms of efficient circulation. You can take the heater out of the circuit but connect up the appropriate hoses to provide for the aforementioned "circulation" if need be but consider..... the "heater" is in fact, a "heat exchanger" in and of itself, so..... you can always close the cockpit vents and route the internal heat upwards through the defroster vents for keeping the heater "in" the circuit also results in another... MORE
David, the MC just kept leaking down, ever sooooo slowly but more than enough to tell that it was going somewhere. I noticed it around the base and on the firewall behind it. I was talking to the mechanic that has the car right now (like I said, I'm no brake man) and he had just taken the MC apart. Somewhere in it's previous life, the thing had been re-sleeved so, he thought that the rebuild kit should fix the problem. I went ahead and bought the stainless brake lines. I hope that helps. The previous owner kept great... MORE
Have a master with broken innards and need one to get the sprite out of deep sleep (20 years)Everything works but the brakes. 1968 with a front tipping 59 bonnet. email mf53027@... I will email you back "mh53027" 22106... MORE
Sounds like an invitation to go further out on the limb. I agree about the rubber hoses, and you mention that you had just replaced all of the clutch componenets, and not knowing what the car is, I will assume that it isn't a bugeye(dual master cylinder). There is a rubber valve in some brake master cylinders that holds pressure to the drum brakes. If this was deteriorating, it could keep pressure on the brake line. With it being old, and needing rebuilt, other than the brakes being serriously over tightened, I think it would be in the master... MORE
Bob, Right after I replaced all of the clutch componenets and drive shaft, I took the car out for a drive. I was out about 2 hours and parked it. The next day, I got in, drove a couple of blocks and the brakes locked up. I generally don't trust myself with brakes so, I took it to the mecahnic who has serviced this car for me and the previous owner. He says the MC has been leaking for years but the previous owner wouldn't let him fix it because she was saving up for a Bugeye. Anyway, I'm... MORE
G'day Jack The mechanic's advice is correct. Have the master cylinder re-sleeved in stainless steel. I have no idea what that costs on your side of the pond, but over here is is about $120 AUD = $75 USD. Then you can fit the kit with confidence, and have no more problems for 30,000 miles or more. And even then, you will just need a new kit, as the stainless steel will not rust, and being slightly harder than the rubber seals, it will not have worn. Don't waste your money on a new master cylinder. But after all,... MORE
David, Don't bother pulling the rubber boot, if everything is OK you have to replace it. If it not you have a messy part to play with! Simply leave the car on the ground and have someone rotate the steering wheel from side to side (about 9 to 12 ins). Get hold of the joint with your fingertips, you can feel for worn steering rack joints through the rubber boot of the steering rack with a worn rack producing a 'click' or 'jerk' near the joint. You will feel play if it is worn. The whole joint will seperate... MORE
George, Couple of points: Tyres can apparently get "flat spots" caused by brakes being warped or out of "true" And, on complaints - I find letters work far better than e-mails - at least in the uk. For some reason e-mails are treated as ephemeral, and if not dealt with immediately, are unlikely to get a reaction later. A letter to the complaints department, including a footnote to say that a copy is being sent direct to the CEO is more likely to get you a positive reaction. (sorry if I am covering something aready stated, but I have... MORE
The 3/4" dual master cylinders come up on ebay every couple of months or so, But they will need rebuilt or sleeved. If you have one now, you could just have it resleeved. The earlier cars used a 7/8" dual master cylinder and are interchangeable. The 7/8" was for drum brakes and the 3/4" was for disc. In going to a 7/8", the petal pressure will be harder. What seems to be the problem with your existing master cylinder/brake system? Bob, Troutdale, OR "Robert Webb" 22043... MORE
Does anyone have an idea where I might locate a master cylinder for a 63 Sprite? No luck with Moss or Victoria British. I ordered the rebuild kit but, I'm not sure that it's going to solve the problem. Is it possible to use the master cylinder from an older car? There seems to be plenty of those around. Thanks "austinbud2002" 22032... MORE
Ok, I bled them again and found a copious amount of air in the rear lines. It is significantly better now - I can actually stop the car! I think I need one more bleed sometime next week followed by a nice cup of really hot tea and I am all set. Thanks for all your collective help! Happy trails! -Tom "tmruwart" 22014... MORE
Go to the group homepage and search the archive there will probably be top (or hood as we confusingly call it over here) fitting advice in there. You also probably want to get a least one manual, factory, bentley or haynes. The other book that will be useful to you is the Lindsey Porter restoration book. This definitely has a hood fitting section in it. A search of the archives will also reveal some useful recommisioning advice but as a starter don't forget to: Change all fluids including hydraulic fluids. Grease the front suspensions. Check the wiper blades they... MORE
Bill.... "Sidebar"...... Was going to check further on the PerTronix/tach accuracy at higher rpm situation today but major accident on RT.95 along with construction on the "northern route" squelched this short trip! Tomorrow looks better (I hope!). Where a PCV valve or later "closed loop" breathing system is not employed (later post '67 system encompassing fuel system), there exists no means to evacuate crankcase pressure/vapours. David Vizard points the way in this respect in accordance with his "bible" on Series A engines. In such a case.... one must go back in time to the pre-emission "ventilation" theory. In practice,... MORE
Hmmm. The recent discussion about silicone brake fluid has got me thinking about other bad ideas which sound good. Water wetter - it may do no harm, but it certainly does no good. Oil additives - nobody, but nobody understands oil technology better than the major oil companies, and their oils can't be improved on by pouring some magical goop in. Battery additives - same story. Fuel additives - another waste of money and possible source of harm. Tire sealant goop - can you say thump, thump? Whirligigs in the air inlet, spark intensifiers, once-a-year waxes. etc, etc. There... MORE
G'day Tom etc I support David's comments. Water vapour will still enter the braking system, it just will not dissolve in the Dot 5 fluid, so it pools at the lowest point. I used Dot 5 in my restored race car 7 years ago, simply because I didn't want to see all the paint blistering off all the newly painted parts when we first tried to bleed the system. And of course I was told that it would not absorb water. I gotta admit that I forgot the yearly routine of bleeding the entire system (thanks, Cap'n Bob) until... MORE
Absolutely. In the finaly analysis break fluid is there to transmit force from your foot to the brakes. Silicone does not do this as well as glycol based fluids (dot 4 etc.) as it is more compressible and less mobile therefore hindering bleeding. The only place you might justifyably use it is in a trailer queen. change your fluid regularly, be careful not to spill it and cover wings etc. when topping up and you've taken away all the reasons to use Silicone. jeremy.cogman@... 21916... MORE
Hey all, Interesting. I put Dot 5 in because it [supposedly] does not absorb water and would prevent rust from forming inside the calipers. Since this care is in Minnesota it hibernates for 4-5 months a year during which time any moisture in the brake system can cause rust problems. That is my understanding. I was not aware of the "micro-bubble" problem with Dot 5 that I seem to be experiencing. Oh well.... another learning experience. I hope to have a few more bleeding sessions with my car over the next several days and I will keep you all... MORE
You may have some residual air in the system, and, as Allen suggested, repeated bleeding over a few days may help. It also may be that the new pads and shoes will need to wear in a bit so they fit up exactly against the rotors and drums before you get a rock hard pedal. Some people clain that Dot 5 always gives a softer pedal, but I can't confirm this. What I can confirm, because my car had Dot 5 silicone it when I bought it, is that Dot 5 is more likely to leak, and when it... MORE
about 3 sessions over about a week before the pedal really firmed up. But, eventually it did and the silicone fluid perfermed just fine over the car's lifetime. Cap'n. Bob '60 :{) PilotRob@... 21911... MORE
Yo Group, My first opportunity to ask a question since rejoining recently. I installed a '79 Midget rear axle in my '75 as the main job in converting from wire wheels to disc's (mags actually). Got the job done and went to refill the banjo but it doesn't appear to be the square ratchet hole I expected but rather a hex. Can anyone on the list confirm that this is a hex plug and what size? Thanks, Rob C '75 Midget robbiesg@... 21907... MORE
I have a 73 Midget and recently rebuilt the front calipers and replaced the rear cylinders, put in new rotors and pads on the front and new shoes in the back. I replaced the flexible brake line in the rear and cleaned *all* the brake lines (inside and out) and the master cylinder. I then proceeded to put in DOT 5 brake fluid. Everything seems to be fine and there are no leaks anywhere in the system. I used a MightyVac to bleed the lines (in the recommended order - twice) but the brakes are still *very* soft -... MORE
