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Hi I just found this Group Today.... First let me start off by saying I love MG's, (Midgets especailly) The First car I drove was my Dad's '72 1275cc. I had to get it back into Driving shape when I turned 16, but it was well worth it.. After putting some work into it, I decided to buy one of my own, since my Dad's would always be my Dad's no matter what I did to it. I ended up buying a BRG 79 1500cc, Loved that one too, but it had been a beach car and I never... MORE
Hi All, I have two requests for help, one basic - the other related to tools. The basic question is: I have stripped the car and will have re-painted the body soon. In terms of mechanical parts, is there an order of rebuild that I should be guided by. What do i put back first? My guess would be : Brake pipes, wiring harness, fuel tank, rear suspension/brakes, front suspension/brakes, engine/gearbox, ancillary electricals (heater, wipers), dash, trim, then seats. Or doesn't it matter much? Secondly, I am going to buy a sander. Is a random orbit sander worth the... MORE
There you have it, toyperson! As can be seen from replies from fellow listers, there are so many variables that "normal" encompasses an arc about 5 nautical miles wide!! The guys in Jersey, NY, LA and London or engulfed in metro traffic situations get a helluva lot of excercise driving a stick shift!! They have many, many more shifts per mile than a guy driving the Blue Ridge mountains and similiar areas. And it is "tougher" on the mechanicals as you DO have to keep up with traffic (0-60 "sprints") or you DO become an "obstruction" to all in... MORE
Hi Adam All this is a matter of opinion and I am not sure if you are looking for a Midget rather than a Sprite or either. The truth is that the Midget is a copy of the Sprite, the first car being the MK 1 Sprite (frogeye) designed by Healey using Austin mechanicals. All the cars built since the frogeye use basically the same body and floor pan but with cosmetic exterior modifications. Most of the modifications to the car were driven by legislation or an attempt to keep up with the competition and maintain market share and... MORE
Ah, the noises!! Honestly don't know for sure, Brad. There are springs in the clutch disc (4) as well as the pedal return spring in the cockpit (or pedal box in the case of the Bugeye). My feeling is the cause of this noise will become obvious when get the clutch apart. Let me know; I can learn something here. Cap'n. Bob '60 :{) PilotRob@... 10980... MORE
Tony. If memory serves me correctly, my brake line runs under the car along the aforementioned rails, but I don't think there is any problem running the two lines parallel. Just makes sure the lines don't chafe against each other. Gerard "gerardchateau" 10955... MORE
Gerard, This info is extremely useful and I thank you very much for taking the time to reply. Supplementary question: so does the fuel line routing through the tunnel follow/run parallel to the rear brake line? I reckoned to effectively double-clip fuel/brake lines at the same couple of points in the tunnel for the sake of tidiness. I not going to be fanatic about originality, but as I'm just starting to put stuff back together I may as well do it as near as possible to the "right way". Again, many thanks. Regards, Tony pooley. "anthony pooley" 10945... MORE
Can anyone recommend a decent Midget specialist around Southampton area in UK?? I am looking to check for a clean bill of health and then would like a god pont of reference for various suspension upgrades, engine & brake modifications that I am planning. Any thoughts gratefully received, Joe West "jaydubbleyah" 10930... MORE
I've seen it done. Major modifications required, including cutting the front rails. The one I'm familiar with uses a Ford rear axle and much larger brakes. BB, you out there to tell our friend how fun your Nasty Frog is to drive? schicmg@... 10935... MORE
Can anyone please help me in my rebuilding endeavours with my North American Midget: 1. What is the correct routing for the main steel fuel line (from pump to carbs) - inside the propshaft tunnel or underside of floor? - if inside, which side? I have rear brake line running through tunnel on right-hand side - should fuel line be anchored at same points as brake-line clamps? - if right-hand route inside tunnel is correct, at what point does fuel line cross over to left-hand side, and would this be above or below gearbox (or bell housing)? 2. On... MORE
TP, On my '65 the fuel line runs underneath the floor parallel to the tunnel. Next to a flange where tunnel and floor meet. Not sure if it would be different on a 71. I would think it safer if that line be kept away from the prop shaft, in case of u-joint failure. Yeah I know that a brake line would be damaged but the risk of fire is much less. Martyn Remove the canned meat if you wish! meastwood1@... "Martyn Eastwood" 10926... MORE
What is the average life of your clutch components? We have had the 68 for about 6 or 7 years now, and I have not ever changed out anything in the drivetrain. I have been hearing from time to time, as sound like a spring popping when I have taken off from stop signs and stop lights. Now last night, the clutch decided to get difficult. It won't shift easily and makes a low growling when the pedal is depressed. FWIW, I ALWAYS shift into neutral when sitting still. For all you new owners who are not yet driving... MORE
Couple of points Shaun. Pricing seems a bit of a cartel - probably fixed by BMH. All suppliers seem to be asking very close to 2500, but have various sweeteners - eg MGOC give 6-months' 0% finance (but payable by 6 monthly instalments) and 10% off all MGOC purchases for a year + free delivery. MGBHive (where mine is coming from) want 2500, with free delivery and 100-worth of free stuff. You cannot order direct from BMH. Choose your prepper / painter carefully - definitely worth shopping around. Have they done Heritage shells before? Are they going to take... MORE
Sorry for the delayed reply. I have been very busy with and engine swap project and just haven't had time to keep up with the bulk of mail. I would even have looked at this had you not included my name in the subject line. Now to the answer... I believe you are correct if you are retaining the 948 flywheel. It is possible (and preferable) to use a 1275 clutch, but I thing it requires having a 1275 flywheel adapted for use on the 948. I use a 1275 cltuch on the one 948 I have but I... MORE
Hello everyone I have put some beautiful mini lites on my 1971 MG Midget What my issue is, is the brake dust. A friend of mine had said that they do make a dust cover to keep the dust from getting on the wheels. Is there something like that out there for MG's? Thanks for the help Jason Gross 1971 MG Midget "Jason Gross" 10799... MORE
I took the advice from ED in SD and checked the pin where the pedal attaches to the master cylinder even though I replaced it last June. Guess what, this is where my problem was. The pin was of soft metal and had sheared off on one side and was just about to snap on the other. The pedal was moving almost half way to the floor before pushing the shaft in the master clutch cylinder. After cleaning up the damaged holes and bushing them, I put a bolt (with a shank) in it and now she shifts better... MORE
updated..the echo (the memory goes first?..) was a cloud..makes it had to chart them.. this one did not like to move or take instructions.. I expect we both will be 'on doing other things' by the time(if ever-I see it as happening w/human assist)automation kicks in ..will relate a test program I was a small real, real small part of..auto atc.. all the rules, local airport/airway/apch-dept data..the whole nine yards were entered into this wizbang thing.. ok..start the machine..first thing "it" keyed on was a permanent echo that was not a part of the terminal data..made it number one,... MORE
I expect we both will be 'on doing other things' by the time(if ever-I see it as happening w/human assist)automation kicks in ..will relate a test program I was a small real, real small part of..auto atc.. all the rules, local airport/airway/apch-dept data..the whole nine yards were entered into this wizbang thing.. ok..start the machine..first thing "it" keyed on was a permanent echo that was not a part of the terminal data..made it number one, issued landing inst. .. acft(simulated/generated) 2 thru 8 check in..gives all correct instructions..except as per rule almost #1.. first come, first serve.. the "echo... MORE
I am currentl tracking down a lead on a 1975 MG midget. I am going to use it as a donor car for my other project, a 1958 Bugeye. Thought maybe I could use the front brakes, engine, tranny, and whatever else may fit. Can anyone provide me with any information about the interchangability of this later year car with my Bugeye? Thought if the car was in good enough shape may just save it for my next project or try to part it out for others looking for parts. Is that a popular year of that car? Is... MORE
Allen, I now have a happy running Mk 1 Midget with a new rear hub and bearing, it all went well including bleeding the brakes as indicated. The hub that I took of had taken a beating, the splines that lock the wheel studs in has all worn away on 2 studs and were pretty gone on a third. Does anyone have any experience of wire wheel coversions? This is the type that goes on to a standard axle, the centre lock hubs bolt on like a steel wheel, then a specially offset (took a while to work that... MORE
Check the archives for many debates on this subject but basically: Silicone: Lasts longer, doesn't damage paintwork Ordinary: Better brake pedal feel, cheaper, easier to bleed. If you want opinions then I'm for a firmer break pedal and easier bleeding any day of the week. The advantages of silicone are easily replicated with glycol by being careful and changing fluid yearly. "Jeremy Cogman" 10666... MORE
You may want to check the wear at the pivot point of your clutch pedal where it connects to the master cilinder, inside the pedal box.I had this problem and found the hole in the end of pedal egg shaped. Just a 1/4" play at the top will translate to several inches of travel at the pedal.The fix is a bit of a pain as the pedal assembly has to come out. You of course can replace with a new oneif you want but i drilled mine out and installed a brass bushing[cut of peice of tubing]greased and away... MORE
all.. have rebuilt my entire braking system and am now faced with the choice of silcone or regular brake fluid. advantages of the newer fluid are obvious (e.g., no water absorption), but i've heard that the internal rubber parts don't like it much. true? advice needed. thanks ken horner "pblock4x4" 10643... MORE
Easy peasy lemon squeezy (don't ask!) An hour absolute max, more like ten minutes. Undo carb linkage clamp stick head in drivers footwell and unhook cable nipple from gas pedal arm withdraw cable assembly from engine bay lubricate new cable inner stick new nipple through hole in bulkhead into footwell locate nipple in arm seat cable outer in socket on bulkhead thread other end of inner through hole in heat shield locate outer in socket in heat shield pass inner though clamp on carb linkage pull tight and adjust so there is a tiny bit of slack to be... MORE
The engine is a stock 1275 in my 68 Sprite. I'm adding a long centre branch header and Monza exhaust, the 45 DCOE, and the Mallory Dual Point, as well as an oil cooler, cross-drilled slotted discs, and 175/70 13 tires, among other improvements. I have seen conflicting reports on the best sizes of jets, venturi, etc. to use in the carb. Hoping to hear from the voices of experience. - Tom "tmhazen" 10544... MORE
