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Hi, Jack- I have a "Wheelwright" tube shock conversion kit on my '61 Frog. The kit came on the car but I've used the same kit before on Spridgets; sold by FASPEC and Winner's Circle, as I recall. Currently I am using GasAdjust K2 and they are a little on the stiff side. May go to SPAX in time. Shock is Corvette-sized. Before you switch over, though, there are places where well-overhauled "levers" can be obtained; nosimports, for instance are reputed to sell excellent replacement units and I believe Peter C. can "upgrade" stiffness of the units to suit.... MORE


I think you will find that BTA548 is the part number of the diff housing. The M&G International parts book lists the diff housing assembly (complete with caps) as BTA549. The other part numbers you mention are for the complete assemblies with crownwheels & pinions, etc. There is a small flat on top of the diff housing (about 11 o'clock) which has stamped on it the number of teeth on the crownwheel and pinion - i.e. 9/38 for 4.22, 10/39 for 3.9. You will need to scrape off the accumulated crud and view it with a torch/flashlight and a... MORE


Got a new heater for my bugeye and when I opened the box I discovered that it was not the same as the original. The metal tube that comes off the side of the old heater and contains the mechanism to close off the air is much shorter with no mechanism for closing. I guess you would use a longer hose to connect it to the blower, but you wouldn't be able to close it. I got it from Moss. Does anyone know if one more like the original are available anywhere? Thanks rlirwin@... 6015... MORE


piece of metal cut to the same width as the base metal and bent on the end (double-lapped for the added strength). I drilled a hole the same diameter as the bolts that attach to the base pad, and reattached with the fabricated piece on the bottom. Holds well and one would never know. So Dave, thanks for your offer to look through your spare parts boxes for the manufactured piece. Since I was working on the door, thought I'd move on and tackle the removal of an exterior push handle assembly from a spare driver's side door. The... MORE


Brad, That's the way I do it. The pad on the jack fits inside the lower spring seat and the A-arm restrains the spring somewhat. I've done the bolt trick, that takes a long time. Wiring the spring in a compressed state is not very safe at all. I've had springs compressed with a spring compressor and it slipped, very scary. No matter how you do it be careful! Martyn meastwood1@... "Martyn Eastwood" 5997... MORE


Stu: The part that I need is the plate that attaches to the pad. The plate has edges turned up that the grub screw attaches to. One edge of the plate broke off, and that is what I need to attach the mirror. This piece is completed concealed when the mirror is on. Is that piece considered a part of the base pad or the plinth? Pete pskalski@... 5979... MORE


It is visible, it's about 1inch one one side, sloping to about 1/2 inch on the other, and the length of the bottom of the mirror - chromed. As far as I remember it's got threaded holes to take the mirror mounting plate (which is held on with a little grub screw). The base pad is a plastic plate with two moulded plastic lumps which go through holes in your door and open out when you screw into them (thus holding the mirror on without having to remove the door inner). I think anyway.... ST "Stuart Toller" 5978... MORE


All, While Rick is busy with his service arrangements, I'd like to solicit your input regarding a Moss order that I am about to make. Looking at the catalog in the side mirror department, I am looking for the metal piece that the mirror clips onto at the base. Is that considered the Base Pad (part 165-635), or do I have to order the plinth (165-630) to get what I need. I know a call to Moss would take care of it, but I also have another question. This regards the thermostat housing unit. My 78 1500 midget's unit... MORE


All the base pad is is a rubber pad that sit's between the plate and the paint on the door. You will have to order a plate for the mirror to sit on. the 165 - 630 Good Luck Jason "Jason Gross" 5976... MORE


I know this made the list a couple of years ago...but it's worth revisiting . As we all know, the proper tool for the proper job is the best choice. =A0Please refer to the chart below for each tools proper use. HAMMER: Originally employed as a weapon of war, the hammer nowadays is used as a kind of divining rod to locate expensive parts not far from the object we are trying to hit. MECHANIC'S KNIFE: Used to open and slice through the contents of cardboard cartons delivered to your front door; works particularly well on boxes containing seats... MORE


The usual culprit is a worn out clutch release bearing- the carbon is probably worn down enough that the brass carrier is pressing on the clutch release surface. You can inspect the release bearing through the clutch release lever hole- you'll need a flashlight. The carbon block should protrude from the carrier at least a couple of millimetres. The other possibility is worn out crankshaft thrust bearings- with the engine running, watch the front crankshaft pulley as your beautiful assistant pushes the clutch pedal- if you see the pulley move forwards, then its engine rebuild time. My money's on... MORE


How does one get the #$@!M%^!$ dashboard off? I looked in Haynes and Bentley, and they shoe the screws/bolts that have to be removed, and simply say something dumb like, "remove bolts/screws". I've tried everything I can to get my hands up inside the dash and can barely FIND the dang screws much less be able to remove them. Even if I can get them removed, the chances of reinstalling it seem to be pretty slim. My goal was simply to remove the tachometer and see what the problem is, but now I'm wondering what simple thing I'm missing.... MORE


My bugeye with a 1098 engine has an idling speed several hundred rpm's higher (when warm) when in neutral with the clutch pedal up than it does when the clutch is pressed in. Is that normal? Thanks rlirwin@... 5842... MORE


Ity seems a little early to declare the 2001 winners, but a friend sent me this... 2001 Darwin Awards ....... The awards this year are classic. These awards are given each year to bestow upon (the remains of) that individual, who through single-minded self-sacrifice, has done the most to remove undesirable elements from the human gene pool. 5th RUNNER-UP Goes to a San Anselmo, California man who died when he hit a lift tower at the Mammoth Mountain ski area while riding down the slope on a foam pad. The 22-year old David Hubal was pronounced dead at Central... MORE


Just an update on the oil problem. I had a friend check out the engine after he mentioned something unusual. In describing the oil pressure problem to him, he said I need to have the connecting rod end "Sized" and it would solve my problem. According to him, the American version of the Midget had the Austin/American engine installed where this problem was quite common. It seems the rod end tend to distort if the engine overheats. Guess what, the engine DID overheat on me when I first ran it since the rebuild as there was a water hose... MORE


I recall a number of listers who have had experience with the windscreen reassembly problem. Some of the more bizarre solutions involved large trees, blocks and tackle, porta-power hydraulic rams, and a 'somewhat generously proportioned' wife. (And no, I'm not discussing my fetishes and no, I'm not exaggerating) As for the KY jelly comment- well, yes, it's actually the best stuff, but you get some strange looks when you ask the chemist for "a couple of pints". Especially if you have the above-mentioned equipment in the back of the car. Good luck! G "Grant Bowyer" 5765... MORE


It looks like brass, but I just wasn't sure if it was an alloy or what. I'm going to just try to solder with my little soldering iron and then go from there. Yeah, it IS pretty when sanded down. Boy, it was driving me crazy trying to find the leak. I had just replaced all the hoses and checked out the radiator (out of the car), and all looked fine. About a day later I discovered a large pool of coolant under the engine and no obvious sources. The pinhole took quite a while to let it out.... MORE


Also, "clutch woes"- A good time to possibly upgrade to a "roller" throw-out bearing in place of the "stock" carbon-type? I have found "action" to be much smoother with these and even though they do not have the problem Grant writes about in his post, have always felt you are better off in neutral than "holding" clutch pedal "in gear", anytime it can be avoided. Cap'n. Bob '61 :{) PilotRob@... 5747... MORE


The clutch on my '73 midget suddenly started making a scraping noise when pedal is pressed down and slows engine. I am unable to shift gears without grinding. Any suggestions. Thanks one and all. Chuck clessman@... 5715... MORE


The weather's been perfect in Connecticut lately for LBCs. Nice and cool. I did a nice hour or so the other day, and as always had my eye on the water temp, and everything was nominal. When I got back to the garage, I caught a whiff of coolant and opened the bonnet to investigate. There was a small amount of coolant on the alternator, a little spray on the 2 and 3 plugs, and some spray on the alternator and on the heater box. I cannot see any visible cracks, but I did get a piece of cardboard... MORE


Just a quick note to warn anyone thinking about converting their steel wheel car to wire wheel by using bolt on "converters" ... DON'T DO IT!! Unless of course: a) You enjoy having to drain your axle just to change brake shoes. b) You have a stock pile of O rings and gaskets you need to use up. c) You like the sound of your rear tyres scraping against the inner wheel arch everytime you go over a dip in the road. Having said that, I have a brand new pair of rear axle wire wheel converters that are... MORE


I read through the nice long thread on flushing the cooling system, and it will serve me well pretty soon. This last weekend I replaced the thermostat cover (whatever it's called), most of the hoses (one I couldn't find yet), and pulled the radiator and flushed it for quite a while. Nice to see all of the rust and rust-colored water turn clear after a while! I plan to do the vinegar flush and distilled water when I get the final hose installed. Boy, what a difference. The only thing I forgot was to open up the heater valve.... MORE


Hello everyone This is the 2nd time asking this question, I didn't get a response for the first time around. I have a 1971 MG Midget (GAN 5 UB 94654 G) I have seen at a few car show's and on ebay a few MG's in my year with the horn push pad painted red, around the MG logo. Mine is not like this but I have been wondering if it was at one time. Can anyone help? Thanks Jason Maine "Jason Gross" 5445... MORE


VeeEight your Spridget I won an interesting magazine off of eBay (your "beware, you may get screwed in cyberspace" community) the other week. It is a May 1961 issue of Cars, The Automotive Magazine. In it is an article entitled 4 great engine swaps. The most interesting of the 4 was a 270 c.i. 'Vette engine with the automatic powerglide slipped into a Bugeye. It is a 5 page article with about 1 page of text and the rest is 22 photos of the car with close-ups and tech tips. FWIW, he removed the accelerator pedal and made the... MORE


now now RBH don't go getting the bleeding heart liberal's panties in a bunch :) Tad R. 74 RWA Midget 69 MGC GT "richard rivenbark" 5395... MORE