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Dave It sounds to me like your engine is sucking air somewhere... (vacuum leak as you indicate) I suggest you check the carb gaskets and that all the breather hoses and vacumm advance pipes are in the correct place. I'd ignore the plugs until you are sure you have a sealed inlet system. It is quite possible that a '67 car would be sold in '68 - they used to sit around at the docks for quite a while... Conversion from positive to negative earth is a common modification - especially if you want to fit a radio/cassette/cd player.... MORE


Hi people, Driving in the lovely sunshine at the weekend, I returned to find my brake pedal dripping with brake fluid (I guess from the master cylinder above it). Question is: do I repair the existing master cylinder or should I go for new. Its a 1980 midget 1500. Cheers, Jim. jim.wyper@... 4602... MORE


No, machining the drum is good - gives a true smooth surface, but you do need oversize shoes (Chris said he had these). Mike "Mike & Kerry Gigante" 4587... MORE


Jim, Recon cylinders are usually ok, but if they go again, I have not been able to find seal to fit, due to the increase in bore size after they have been machined out. I went for a new master cylinder. That way I can replace the seals in the future. "Stevens, David" 4612... MORE


I gather yours is a split brake system then - MkIV Sprite or MkIII+ midget. I'll take a look at oneof my MkIVs (it is in the farm shed) and see what I can see. Mike "Mike & Kerry Gigante" 4555... MORE


Hi David Next time you rebuild your rack, fill it with oil and notice the difference- you'll wonder why you didnt do it sooner. Lovely fluid steering, light, sharp and responsive. You dont know what you're missing. Cheers Grant "Grant Bowyer" 4541... MORE


Hi chaps, My ignorance here - is machining the drum a good idea? Seems like...err... a bit of a 'olde worlde' cheap repair (like re-lining brake shoes and skimming discs). If machined slightly oval wouldn't that make it hard to set the rear adjusters, and lead to long pedal travel? Just a thought - I accept I could have it completely wrong... :-) Cheers, Phil FilMidget@... 4577... MORE


Chris, Can you differentiate between a LOW brake pedal and a SOFT brake pedal or do you have both? They are two very different problems and require different answers. Do not want to sound alarmist but was one of the brake fluid colours red (mineral based) and the other straw yellow (glycol based)? If so - please flush the system yet again and replace ALL seals BEFORE further use, (including clutch if a common master cylinder reservoir) you will probably find that they have gone soft and have started swelling. If they have, they can (will) cause brake failure.... MORE


Hi, I'm sure you've checked this but just in case.... Are the rear drums adjusted up correctly? First adjust the drums, then the hand brake. This can have a big impact on peddle travel. cheers Rob, Bournemouth. "Storer, Rob" 4545... MORE


Good day,all, My car still has a really soft brake pedal. On advise from the list,I have flushed out all the dot5-and replaced it with dot4. That was done using one of those clever pressure bleed thingys-also the fluid is a different colour-so I know the "old" has been replaced with the new. My car does not have any adjustment at all with regard to the pedal position as far as I can see.My workshop manual shows adjustment at the brake light switch____-my switch is in the brake lines at the distribution block near the master cylinder. Other suggestions... MORE


Just replaced the ball joint boot on my 1959 bugeye. Now need to add 90 wt. gear oil to the steering rack to replace what was lost. Manual says inject it through the nipple on the right side of the rack. Is there a special grease type gun I need to do this?? Are there fluid type cartriges to insert in a regular gun? My local auto stores haven't been able to help. Thanks, Red Devil CFickmour@... 4488... MORE


Pilot Bob, I drive a Republic p-47d "Thunderbolt" for fun.And still play with the firms A310's and Citation's when necessary. Our firm does charters for rock mussos tours,and a few of the G.P drivers,as well as those with a tad to many dollars!! After many years with Qantas I decided that I'd rather fly something less glam than a 747-400 ,and also to get as far away as I could fom the corporate bullsh*t that seems to be intrinsic in all commercial lines. I guess that,as one of my business partners said today,we also get to instigate our own... MORE


Friends, Just received this from a trusted source, but can't guarantee its accuracy - given the reference to New York I have my suspicions. Anyone know more? Steve Clark Southampton, UK SUBJECT: WORST EVER VIRUS (CNN announced) has just been discovered that has been classified by Microsoft as the most destructive ever! This virus was discovered yesterday afternoon by McAfee and no vaccine has yet been developed. This virus simply destroys Sector Zero from the hard disk, where vital information for its functioning are stored. This virus acts in the following manner: It sends itself automatically to all contacts... MORE


Gee, CB, that's all! :) Well, I'm sorry, but that simply doesn't qualify as enough, but I certainly know who to call when I have a question on flying! A "Jug"! Man, what is that like!? Paddle prop, I suppose? About 80GPH in economy (autolean) cruise and maybe 200GPH when you've got it opened up? Speaking of which, what sort of avgas are you using and how much MP can you pull on takeoff, accordingly. Guess the "purple"(?) stuff is no longer available? Accelerate to about 180 before you climb after liftoff? I'm recalling all this from a book... MORE


( still cannot get a good pedal on my Mk though!!) Chris B. Perth Australia "chris broughton" 4445... MORE


Steve, etal, IT IS A HOAX. See below which is the begining of a report issued by Symantec on this susposed virus: "Virtual Card for You Reported on: January 10, 2001 Last Updated on: April 19, 2001 at 09:50:38 AM PDT The Virtual Card for You is a hoax that should be ignored. The following is the text that may be received as an email message: Virus Alert VIRUS WARNING To ALL INTERNET USERS: A new virus has just been discovered that has been classified by Microsoft (www.microsoft.com) and by McAfee (www.mcafee.com) as the most destructive ever! This virus... MORE


One of my competition engines is a +0.020" full race engine (~310 degrees duration ~0.5" lift, 1.5 rockers etc). I had done 2 meetings since the last stripdown where bearings and rings were done, head and crank were crack tested etc. I had used this engine in my bugeye in the races and rallies before the rebuild. After the rebuild it was in the Midget. I took the car to the Australian National Sprite challenge, held in Mallala in Sth Australia. At that meeting (3 days over Easter), we had two days at the track, one day in a... MORE


Chris, I echo your comments on the terrorist tragedy. did you replace the drums? That, and careful adjustment of the rear brakes (turn the adjuster until the brakes lock reasonably firm; unwind, rewind till they just start to drag, back off one flat). Did you adjust the pedal /pushrod adjusters? You use these to adjust pedal height and "slop" until engagement. Mike "Mike & Kerry Gigante" 4323... MORE


G'day, This seems so small after the New York lunacy, but it is hoped that something to divert our minds may be a good thing,' Does anyone have any hints on how to improve brake pedal firmness. All the brakes on my mk4 sprite have been replaced with new ( or fully recond.) The master cylinder has a new kit in it(after reaming out-the kit is suited to the cylinder) The back brake cylinders are both brand new. The front calipers have been serviced with all new kits etc. The brake lines are all new. The flexible brake pipes... MORE


Hi, Chris- Apparent "softness" of new brakes not unusual; should firm up with a little use, if job done properly. Carry brake fluid with you to "top off" master as they do "get harder". (Just went through this with Bugeye last month.) Cap'n. Bob '61 :{) PilotRob@... 4332... MORE


You've missed a bolt, Terry. In addition to the three bolts in the side footwell (lined up vertically near the A-pillar) there's another bolt in the side of the footwell near the accelerator pedal (RHD) or clutch pedal (LHD). The bolt near the windscreen does not have a captive nut. Undo it with a spanner. And that's it! Good luck, G "Grant Bowyer" 4287... MORE


I have just overhauled the clutch hydraulics and, like so many before me, have been having trouble bleeding the system. It seems to me that the fluid is not being drawn down from the master cylinder to be pumped through the line (and thereby displace the air). I can get some air out initially but then no more air or fluid, and the level hasn't dropped in the reservoir. The flex hose and slave are new, master cylinder is almost new. All blown through, so there is no blockage anywhere. Can anyone suggest what I might be doing wrong?... MORE


As far as I am aware silicon fluid is not recommended for race applications I use glycol base DOT5.1 in my race car. Specialised race brake fluid is available from AP/Castrol etc etc. Not sure if that would be synthetic or organic... Hygroscopic properties of glycol fluid is not a problem as brakes tend to be bled regularly and fluid changed at least once a season (on my car at least...) Silicone fluid tends to be used by concours afficianados who dislike the havoc that brake fluid can wreak on their nice shiny paintwork... James "James Bilsland" 4106... MORE


I was hoping that someone was going to answer this one correctly, but alas, no one has had the complete answer. I have been in the automotive aftermarket(selling car parts) for seventeen years, and I am ASE certified, so here is my crack at this subject: Dot 3, 4 and other LMA/Glycol fluids are basically your standard brake fluid, with DOT 4 typically having a higher boiling point than the DOT 3. This means when the fluid boils, all hydraulic pressure, or at least most, goes away, as the stuff is boiling like water! Now, DOT 5 silicone is... MORE


I bought my 1972 Midget about two (2) years ago. I have actually owned three (3) Midgets, going back to about 1986. I have always let 'professionals' do brake work for me, and have never had any problem. Based on regular service, I never needed to top my brake fluid, though I believe that Castrol was always used. This time, I used a different mechanic, due to a move from So. California to Connecticut. I had my brakes serviced on the current car about 500 miles before putting it in the shop for an extended period of time (about... MORE