MAIN

Braking System

 1  |  2  |  3  |  4  |  5  |  6  |  7  |  8  |  9  |  10  |  11  |  12  |  13  |  14  |  15  |  16  |  17  |  18  |  19  |  20  |  21  |  22  |  23  |  24  |  25  |  26  |  27  |  28  |  29  |  30  |  31  |  32  |  33  |  34  |  35  |  36 

Previous Page | Next Page

Thanks to all, I'll check the lines as soon as the temperature allows. Another thing about this is that the line between the master and the slave cylinders isn't steel, it's plastic. That is, the fittings are on short lengths of stell tubing, but the long run is plastic. Is this really what it's supposed to be? In my experience, I've never seen plastic tubing used for hydraulic lines. Rich "rohanley" 19852... MORE


If you are replacing the actual axle seals, there should be only 1 1/4X28 countersunk Phillips head screw located under the brake drum that needs to be pulled to free the axle. The wheel studs should not need to come off. There is both a gasket and an O-Ring in there as a seal for the axle shaft. I hope that helps. Matthew Pfeil 76 Midget "Matthew Pfeil" 19855... MORE


As Brad said, follow the clutch line back from the slave and eventually you will find the leak. The fluid is leaking somewhere and, nasty stuff that it is, it could be doing damage to something else. It strips paint much better than most of us are happy with. Incidentally, it is difficult to apply pressure to the clutch pedal when you have your head in the footwell, so have someone do it for you with a piece of wood or similar, but try it first so that there is no danger of it slipping off and doing you... MORE


Fluid was disappearing from the clutch master cylinder reservoir, resulting in no pedal pressure and an inability to shift. There was no obvious signs of leakage, just missing fluid. After topping up the reservoir, I could shift again. This happened twice, then topping up the reservoir failed to solve the problem. Suspecting leakage past the seal in the master cylinder, I rebuilt it; then bled the system. The result: no pedal pressure, and still no leaks. Next I replaced the slave cylinder, which showed signs of leakage past the cup, but not the boot. Bled system, but still no... MORE


Granted, I only have a Bugeye, but while ROTFLMAO, the only way I can think of looking around inside the bell housing is with a *********** that the doctors use for a colonspotkie (I never said that I could spell). I think the inspection hole is on the top, right under the dash, or you have the clutch hole, where it is difficult to bleed or even tighten the bolts to the slave cylinder. Bob, Portland, OR "Robert Webb" 19821... MORE


Ok...the time has come! I installed a normal sized (matches) boost gauge in my wood panel for the Judson Supercharge which for various good reasons is no longer an application under serious consideration. So, it's time to remove the boost gauge and fill the hole in the panel with something useful, like and oil temperature gauge, fr'instance. I was going to install one of those cool vacuum gauges like Frank Clarici has in his Mk1 but, alas, can't find one around. (Perhaps I should cross the GW bridge one night and weasel....nah....he's got that attack cat!) Nisonger has the... MORE


"...original drum brakes...stopping is an experience all to it's own!!" Guess this sort of puts the cap on the recent discussion of overhauling the original drums or going disc!! :) Cap'n. Bob (Ret'd) '60 Frog PilotRob@... 19742... MORE


Trever.... Depends on whether the car is a "keeper", I guess. Knowing Sprite front ends and the old average owner's penchant for taking good care of them, it is one of the first things I had checked out when I bought my BE. The car had been basically restored many years before I bought it, but not the front end which was found to be worn to the extent it would not pass a DMV safety check, though it "felt" pretty good on the road. Having BTDT with previous Spridgets, I didn't even think about it....ordered a major kit... MORE


Mr. Holmes. First, I find your comment comparing me to your dog very offensive. Second , I stand by what I said. The ORIGINAL (my capitals) 1920's method w as to Copper plate, then Nickel plate, then Chrome plate. Third, I state that the "Final finish is dependant of the preparation". I consider better press tooling and probably the use of more malleable or duc tile steel is part of the preparation for massed produced parts. For one off restoration of corroded parts then I still insist that the fina l finish is dependant on the preparation Fourth, I... MORE


Jeepers, Alan, Where should I start? 6 to 8 thou thick? No. The very highest quality specs, ASTM Service Condition 5, for severe corrosive environments exposure (that means , for example exterior ship parts), requires .0012" total thickness. The British Standard is identical. Chrome plating is porous? In a pig's eye. Buff the nickel after plating? Not since the days of high button shoes. The production of mirror bright nickel in the as-plated condition has been standard practice since the 40s. Polish the chrome after plating? Never. My Gawd man, how many polishers do you think FoMoCo would have... MORE


No sweat. By the time you also rebuild the trans, diff, suspension, electrics and brakes, that engine rebuild will be only a small part of the cost :-) "Jeffrey Holmes " 19635... MORE


Are you going to restore it stock (concourse), or personal enjoyment? Are you doing a "frame off" (every nut & bolt removed, cleaned or replaced) restoration, or running/simi-running car and you are going through it a little at a time? If you are going concourse, you should find out if it is the original engine. (BMHT can give you the serial numbers) If you are, and it is original, you might want to have it rebuilt. If not, the 1275 does make a very nice upgrade for a Bugeye. Disc brakes, 5 speed, 3.90 rear end, are also nice.... MORE


I think the housing will be different - hand brake tree different on the banjo. This is the only difference that i know... "Beckers" 19575... MORE


the early 1500s still had the old style handbrake rods. David "David Jacobs" 19587... MORE


My head is from a standard Metro (the 'Jet Black' special edition), rather than the MG. Losing the bypass hose is a definite bonus though I still have the failure of my plug in the waterpump failing. I run an 82C 'stat but have never had cooling problems even on the hotest of English and Northern French summer days. "Jeremy Cogman" 19436... MORE


It should just be a bolt in swap, But use the 71 parts where you can. I'm not sure which rear motor plate you have, but use the one from the 71, The early models were pressed metal and very thin. The increased housepower will brake the thinner one. The 1275 uses a different clutch, pressure plate, and T/O bearing. Bob, Portland, OR 60 Bugeye with a 69 engine, transmission, .... "Robert Webb " 19319... MORE


Went and did it. Just bought a 74 RWA. We all know owning a 74 rwa is more important than clothes, shoes and all that other stuff. So what if I will look like a homeless person driving a sport car. Problem now is getting it home. Had hoped to get it started and running enough to drive the 47 miles home but the reason it had set for a year is because the starter died and I did confirm that it is dead not just a sticking pinion gear. All the smog stuff is still on it or... MORE


OH, it will stop alright, but how........ with good brakes, a tree, the rear of a car. Which option you choose IS up to you. Brad "Brad Fornal" 19304... MORE


You will get more power, that is about it. Be sure to upgrade to disc brakes at the same time, if you don't already have them. Going fast is an option, stopping is a MUST!! Brad "Brad Fornal" 19302... MORE


Hi all, New to group and the joys of 1974 rwa Midget ownership. Question -brake system seems in good order no obvious leaks from cylinders or pipework. Problem =fluid loss from master cylinder . The car is fitted with a servo in nearside wing ,again with no obvious signs of fluid leaks. Is it possible that the servo is eating the fluid ready to spew out at a later date?Any ideas appreciated. Regards Chris. "Chris Lever" 19289... MORE


Nah, I have yet to see a car that accelerated but never stopped. It's how you want to stop that matters. Speaking of stopping, I bought a set of Brembo disk rotors, are they good? I hope they're alright... Kim Yuchol 19303... MORE


Hi, Chris Lever: Welcome aboard and especially so in that you have a '74 RWA Spridget, thereby identifying you as a person of special taste and class, the fact that I myself owned a "Vizardized" variant of one of these in the past, having nothing at all to do with my opinion in this respect, of course! :) If it is not going overboard, the lost fluid certainly must be "within" somewhere and a leaking diaphram in the booster does sound like a likely suspect, for sure. Cap'n. Bob (Ret'd) '60 Frog PilotRob@... 19291... MORE


Oops, Sorry Nigel, forgot you were in the land of RHD. It is interesting how they set up the car to run either RHD or LHD. I was just noticing yesterday that mine has all the mountings to move the pedals to the right hand side. Thanks Mark Howard "Mark Howard " 19215... MORE


Sure you are, Don....and smart, too. The biggest PITA about Sprites, MGA's and B's is that damn carbon throw-out bearing and the strain (by design) it puts on the parts and mechanism. In my earlier days, the motor was always being pulled before it's time to replace the goddamn clutch and even as a kid, I was sensitive to mechanicals. You would never find me abusive to the extent I would rev. the motor and "dump" the clutch just to win a drag race. Never happen. That damn carbon throw-out bearing is a PITA though there are listers who... MORE


Is there a way I can remove the fulcrum pin in my 67 Sprite without getting it all joed up? I removed the front plug and I see a slotted end at the pin but I don't want to ruin the slot by forcing it. Thanks in advance. Yuchol "yucholian " 19154... MORE