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Help. Due to a number of circumstances my 1275 1971 Midget has been standing in the garage since the dynamo front bracket snapped on the way back from Silvertsone three years ago. I want to get it out, circumstances have improved, my wife wants it back, my daughter wants to experience it. So, what is the best way to free off the stuck clutch? I've tried putting the rear axle on stands, running it at about 2500 rpm in top gear and applying the brakes with the clutch down, but no joy. Am I going to have to take... MORE


Most any of the degreaser products such as Oil Eater or Castrol will work well. The wire Lucas used is very good and will not be damaged by it. Test first to make sure. Spray it, brush lightly with a soft brush, careful of not fraying the ends excessively, hose it down with water and dry well. If you have compressed air that will help to blow water out of the harness covering and wiring bundles. While contact cleaner works in most cases, contacts with that much old oxidation often need an additional cleaning with fine abrasive paper or... MORE


G'day Brad You need a line with a 3/8" UNF male fitting, and a double flare (or "ball" flare"), on both ends. Is this your left hand drive or the right hand drive car? If RHD, then no, the brake line will not reach. The original clutch line was 57" long - remember it should have a double loop approx 2" in diameter, to take up the engine vibration and stop the line from fracturing. The brake line from the 4-way junction to the L/H front wheel is long enough, but has the wrong fitting on the wheel end... MORE


Hi, Jorge!! :) Good to hear from you....man, it's been a looong time. Can see from reviewing posts that" 1. you are single at the moment 2. that your sexual apparatus, while in good shape otherwise, is in danger of overheating The 1st is the correct configuration when an unintended error in choice has been made....good show. This puts you in the enviable position of being available when and if the "right" one comes along. Of course, you must actively try them out to be sure of compatibility in all respects. Thus, part of finding the right one require's... MORE


After a nice 2 hour ride in the 65 on Sunday, after the installation of the new slave cylinder, I tried for another ride last night. I ran to the shop ( 2 blocks away) and then back to the house. A block from the house, I am almost out of pedal. I limp home, and Martha helps me rebleed the clutch. With a firm pedal, I pull out into the street and start going through gears. I get to third, no pedal, AGAIN!! This time, I have to turn it around, and start the car in first to... MORE


Simplest fix is to disconnect the 2 hoses going to the heater box adn connect them together with a short piece of pipe and 2 clamps. Otherwise yo u could install a new valve in the inlet hose to positively SHUT OFF the inflow of hot water from the block. David A. Stevens Jr. Utilities Engineer II NYS Office Of General Services Sheridan Avenue Steam Plant 79 Sheridan Avenue Albany, NY 12210 "Stevens, David" 19020... MORE


..... get me a hose, I seem to have stepped into Moissers bucket!! "Brad Fornal" 19015... MORE


1. Make sure seat rails are solid and tight 2. Wear shoes with aggressive tread 3. When reverse is required simply stick your foot out the door and push! ;-) I used this method for many months in college in a 1978 Toyota Celica (and that is a heavier car) "Trevor J." 18951... MORE


I have a question. As I am getting ready to start on my Bugeye in a month or so, I have my eye on a pressure washer to cut the grunge from parts of the car before I start diving into it. I also have a need for a pressure washer to take some peeling paint of of the wood work around the house so I can paint the patio and shutters with out scraping and sanding my self to death. I also will use it for some general cleaning of driveways etc. but I am sure if I... MORE


Hello mg folks: I replaced the brakes and cylinder in right rear of my car, so far so good. I need to remove the hub on the driver side... Axle: What tool works well to remove the hub from the axle tube, now that the axle nut has been removed? I need some sort of puller... Will the bearings need to be pressed into the hub on replacement? Will the locknut (torqued down) be sufficient force to seat the hub upon replacement? Master cylinder: I am trying to rebuild my later model dual circuit master cyl, but the piston... MORE


Guy Not sure if this is any help but the UK Moss parts catalogue I have lists that part as 'Pipe - Tank to pump flexible hose' part number AHA7381Z and costs =A38.81 GBP, approx $13.20 USD. It's the part as used for the later Spridgets too. Nigel "amukdigiphoto " 18833... MORE


Guy Not sure if this is any help but the UK Moss parts catalogue I have lists that part as 'Pipe - Tank to pump flexible hose' part number AHA7381Z and costs =A38.81 GBP, approx $13.20 USD. It's the part as used for the later Spridgets too. Nigel "amukdigiphoto " 18832... MORE


Hi All, In the midst of replacing my 1965 Midget gas tank with a new one from Moss of new england. The fuel line that goes from the tank to the pump was in poor shape so I snapped it off to replace it with new one. 1/4 inch line with what seems like 13mm threads. Kinda like a large brake line fitting that fits in the tank. Thought I had the bases covered but cant find anything local to work. Been to NAPA, carquest ect. Moss motors shows the part but no number. Any ideas on where to... MORE


If it leaked only after you removed the brake drum, leave it alone, it will stop when you tighten the lug nuts again. If you've removed the axle for a peek, then you should replace the o-ring and paper gasket, and while you're at it, the hub seal too. and since you have to remove the bearing to replace the hub seal, may as well fit a new bearing too. They're cheap. Same old story - start out to change a light bulb and end up doing a three year ground-up restoration. "Jeffrey Holmes " 18709... MORE


Hi everyone: Thanks for the encouraging remarks from everyone ...I'm enthused to continue my project. Special thanks for the Midget vs Miata comparo...I was considering a Miata but prefer older cars. Now to business: I have removed the rear brake drums from my car and will be replacing the cylinders, turning the drums, etc. I noticed that, with the lug nuts removed and the axle halfshaft held in by only one Phillips screw, that there is leakage of differential lube from the joint. Even if I tighten this screw, there is weepage. I think that I have to at... MORE


Mickey D's for a coffee? That thing's more potent than the paint stripper we use. I hear it can be used as hydraulic fluid in these little cars in emergency situations too. Maybe you should put some in your gas tank for that extra go-go... Kim Yuchol 18663... MORE


Hi there everyone, I know you all are saying, who the heck is that? Well I'm Reggie in California, and have been a member for several years now, but haven't posted/contributed for about a year. Sorry :( Anywho, intrductions aside, found a little relief from the lack of info on the dual line master cylinders and those damn piston linkages! Was rebuilding one myself these last few days, and stumbled upon the perplexing problem of the pistons no longer being connected to each other. Read the posts on here and found no one else could find reference to them... MORE


Yuchol The DeVilbiss range of Finishline Spray guns are exceptionally good pro quality budget priced spray guns. However, please bear in mind you'll need a minimum of 12-14cfm air displacement, and 3bar pressure at the air cap, air requirement - thats a lot of compressor! You'll have to be looking at a minimum of a 50litre air receiver and 3hp compressor motor to run that air gun - you're looking at about 500 dollars worth of air compressor. The other thing to bear in mind about that spray gun is that it's a semi-pro gun and therefore needs skilled... MORE


G'day Bob The bush inside the spring has a central steel sleeve, and if the bolt wasn't lubricated liberally with grease when it was last fitted, there is every chance it has rusted and seized along it's whole 3'' length. I had exactly this problem with a customer's car about 3 years ago. Fortunately the customer was hanging around the shop at the time, since he wouldn't have understood the 3 hour charge to remove one bolt!. Yes, it took him and me and the gas axe just under 3 hours to remove it. You're right - you just... MORE


Nigel, I am sure David's advice is good. When I did mine, I stripped to bare metal, (grit blasted) and used acid etch primer. I then welded in all the replacement panels. There were a lot, I think most people would have definately scrapped this car. Mark's car that has all the black goo on the doors looks almost immaculate by the standards that mine was in! The cills on mine had been injected with expanding building foam and were rotten through anyway. I used weldable zinc based primer on all the new stuff, particularly on the seam surfaces.... MORE


umm about the same quantity as the colour coats using top gloss thinners and I bought a 25 litre drum of cheap stuff for the primer and gun washing etc. Regards David "David Jacobs" 18541... MORE


hello, When I replaced mine they were both like that. I finally used a sawsall & cut the damn thing off. Used an angle grinder with a cutoff disc on the inside. (careful not to let it kick back) BTDT Go out & buy a couple of 7/16"or 1/2" ? bolts to replace the cut ones. I think they are about 4 1/2" long with about a 3" shoulder. Grease the shoulder & replace. Worked for me anyway good luck Alex ' 61 midget "Alex Volk" 18543... MORE


On my 1/4 elliptic spring replacement project I managed to remove all the nuts and bolts except one. That is the bolt through the bearing at the end of the spring where it connects to the differential housing. So far all attempts to force it out have failed. The nature of the beast is that the head is rounded with a flat side that fits up against a tab welded to the arm. That makes it impossible to rotate the bolt in an attempt to remove it. It has to be forced straight out until it clears the retaining... MORE


I have a 70 midget that needs a master cylinder, I know that the fluid that I should use is the dot 4 fluid however since the car spends more time sitting them moving, I thought that useing LHM brake fluid (We have a 1969 Citroen 2cv that uses it). The benefit of this fluid is that it is non-wicking. The down side is that it's pretty pricey. The question that I have is, is this fluid compatable with the seals in this brake system? I understand that the whole system will need to be flushed out. Any help... MORE


G'day guys Paul, did you really find no coins down there or are you just not prepared to admit it? Some of the nuts on the rear suspension of your Bugeye/Mk II are 5/8" Also the pivot bolt for the brake and clutch pedals. And lastly - they changed from 7/8" to 1" slave cylinder with the introduction of the 1275cc engine. Why they changed the design of slave sylinder is anyone's guess, but don't blame BMC/Leyland etc. It would have been the supplier that made the change, probably for effiiency, simplicity, commonality etc etc. The 1275cc diaphram clutch... MORE