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Ken Charles! You can run heated or unheated. As David Jacobs states, the MG Metro runs heated. And as David says, you can run either way and see which way is best but, before you do..... you need to understand the effects of water manifold heating and why it exists. It is basically there for economy of operation in light load driving...like around town sort of stuff. As David says, heating the mixture allows for better vaporization of the fuel. True. This allows for a "leaner" mixture for more economical operation (better gas mileage) in part throttle, light load... MORE
it's not unknown for flexible hoses to collapse internally, and if yours have done so, I wouldn't recommend trying to clean them out, junk them and replace with new. If there is gunk in the solid pipes, I'd use methylated spirits (not sure of the US translation for this - ethanol? denatured alcohol?) to flush it through then blow dry with dry compressed air, as the brake parts cleaner might be a bit harsh if left in contact with the seals for any great length of time. Regards David "David Jacobs" 22579... MORE
Does anyone have any ideas for flushing clogged brake lines on a 1972 MGB? I have thought about brake parts cleaner or compressed air or maybe even a combination of both. At this point I am unable to get fluid from reservoir to wheels by applying pedal pressure with known good master cylinder. Setup is dual tandem, non servo type. Thanks, Warren "nipper6579" 22577... MORE
Brad, Is this car an import for Dodge similar to an Eagle, made by Mitsubishi? If so STOP TRYING TO START IT NOW, IT IS PROBABLY THE TIMING BELT!!! If it is similar to the Eagle it will have a zero clearance valve system that will crash if the timing belt gets too far out of sync, about a $1,200.00 bill to rebuild the head. I know, my daughter's 1994 Eagle did that in the middle of the Penn. Turnpike two years ago. Can give you lots of pointers on the repair. Steve Quandt "Steve Quandt" 22522... MORE
Anyone out there have any experience with these cars? It is a 93 3000 GT, it just up and died, no warning. Now it won't start, and turns over like it has no compression. The timing belt is turning, but it feels a bit "chunky" when you put your finger on it while it turns. Brad Brad Fornal 22520... MORE
Actually pure water would in theory work in a hydraulic brake system, but has some practical disadvantages! It boils at too low a temperature. Boiling hydraulic fluid creates gas (steam) which is compressible so your brakes go spongy. It would also cause rusting of cylinder walls, pistons etc. It wouldn't lubricate the rubber parts as well. So although it would work, it wouldn't be much good. DOT 4 will actively attract and absorb moisture over time, but when under pressure the absorbed water will unabsorb back into water droplets, cause rusting, turn to steam and become compressible. Silicone won't... MORE
Yep, David... The new cars are definitely far better "runners" for sure. They run efficently on 87 unleaded PON and polute not and are much more safe than ever before BUT.....they are anything but user friendly when it comes to maintenance. They are expensive as hell to maintain when they have a problem. Simply opening up the taps at each wheel and the clutch slave with an empty beer can at each "tap" and waiting for the fluid (drip, drip, drip...slowly but surely as they drain simultaneously at the same time) in the MC to fall to almost the... MORE
Well... I don't think he is pulling your leg, David... rather, I think there is a misunderstanding. Moisture in brake fluid is, as far as I know, a bad thing in any event. Non-silicone fluids hold moisture in suspension whereas the silicone stuff does not. So, you could say silicone, by allowing the moisture to puddle at system low points (like the calipers wherein the moisture can cause corrosion!) keeps the moisture "away" from the rubber seals? Which one is worse when it comes to corrosion, is anyone's guess insofar as your's truly has no idea!! Loods like your... MORE
There was a thred a little while ago where the subject of DOT 4 brake fluid was discussed, especially brands other than Castrol GTLMA. Here is a short list of the other brands of DOT 4 that are available: 1)Radiator Specialty (also known as Gunk / Solder Seal) M45-12 or M45-12/6 (12 oz.) M45-35 (32 oz.) 2)Wagner FC120838 (12 oz) FC120839 (32 oz) 3)Raybestos APF-124 (12 oz) APF-14 (32 oz) I hope this helps those of you unable to source the Castrol Chris 60 Sprite et al "miguy1950" 22476... MORE
Don I feel for you. It brings back memories of when I first started welding, it's such an unnatural process, it is difficult to get to grips with, but you can do it with patience and practice. Having just finished welding my 71 Midget, new floor pans, inner and outer sills, front and side footwell panels, lower rear wings all on both sides and outer boot floor area, I wil happily share some tips with you. I had never really welded before I started and it did take some practice to get used to it, even now I can... MORE
Hey all, I just want to tell a story about an averted disaster at my home yesterday. I have an older home (built in 67-68) that had used the Zinsco brand breaker box. The design of this older box is VERY dangerous. If you live in an older home, please see if you have this in your house!! What happened at my house was, I had lights go out, but the breaker was not always tripped. I rewired the ceiling fan I had installed a month ago, I had found a loose neutral wire. When I went to turn... MORE
"The car has a manual 5speed in good condition. Has new radiator,tires (on 280zx rims), and hoses.Motor is bad. Body has rust. Be a good parts car or restoration project. $300 obo. Also have other motor parts for building a motor (pistons,block,etc.) I am located in Cocoa, FL. (321)638-407 or email huxeric@... " DLancer7676@... 22427... MORE
Forgive if these have already been covered but: Crank pulley loose / coming to bits. Bad transmission mount. Propershaft UJ's jeremy.cogman@... 22414... MORE
Actually, Jeremy... The crankcase pressure is in and of itself the propellent in a "ventilated" rather than "evacuated" system, the former of which I prefer for exactly the reason you state in your post to Guy Weller....less dilution of already diluted octanes. Fr'instance, I think it was Chris who mentioned dragsters with vacuum pumps hooked up to evacuate crankcase pressure and considering THEIR applications I can well nigh understand this, considering THEIR crankcase pressures!! Whoa, whoa!! :) Obviously, for the normal LBC daily driver this would be overkill but the point is made, though we are talking apples and... MORE
If memory serves (and I will defer to the more chemically qualified members of the list) it is a dilute form of hydrochloric acid (can't remember the exact concentration). My concern is this: I believe that if hydrochloric acid contacts any sort of ferrous metal the chemical reaction results in the formation of HYDROGEN GAS. REMEMBER THE HINDENBURGH.......KABLOOOEY!!!!!! it is pretty aggresive stuff and can be very dangerous to skin and respiratory systems if they are exposed. This stuff will take the hide off a water buffalo at 30 paces, so be careful. There are other rust and GUNK... MORE
Well, Chris... Intelligent routing of "ventilation hoses" (vertical travel) and/or a draught tube run off a "catch can" makes "liquid pollution" a thing of the past in any case. I don't know what everbody else looks for when they check their oil level at least once a week but, I know what I look for besides oil level. The reek of gasoline is all pervading, believe me! If you are not smelling this (it pervades the atmosphere around and within the car, especially on older vehicles which is our subject) or noticing a definite drop off in performance while... MORE
Specifcally like a bilge fan from someplace like West Marine would be continuous duty although it will not be as cheap as the mattress pumps. David A. Stevens Jr. Utilities Engineer II NYS Office Of General Services Sheridan Avenue Steam Plant 79 Sheridan Avenue Albany, NY 12210 "Stevens, David" 22355... MORE
Bill B. writes.."Incredible". Way to go Bill. As long as the exhaust isn't blowing blue smoke, looks like you've got the problem licked...but keep an eye on the oil level over the next thousand miles or so just to be on the safe side....sounds like it's working fine though!! :) If you incorporate that exhaust fan idea, look for a "continuous duty" fan as I think Dave Stevens already mentioned. Cap'n. Bob '60 :{) PilotRob@... 22354... MORE
"Could you re-route.....to scavenge crankcase gases" Well, you'd be pressurizing the catch can prior to the draught tube or filter I guess. If the pressure was more than was present in the crankcase vent lines, it would pressurize these, as well as the draft tube unless you used one way valves in the lines from the crankcase to the catch can. If you could run the tube from the smog pump through the catch can and down vertically toward the road surface, you'd have a pressurized draught tube and by punching some small holes in the portion of the... MORE
what sort of fan would i need to try this out? how would i wire this up? thanks Rob "Andrew" 22342... MORE
anymore ideas/instructions to try this fan idea? cheers Rob "Andrew" 22332... MORE
G'day Robert A mate of mine did just as you suggest. He bought a 12 volt hair dryer, reversed the wiring to make it suck not blow, mounted it neatly in an aluminium can with lots of vents, and collected it to the engine breather outlets. Worked beautifully - no more leaks. And the fan didn't seem to mind ingesting all those oil fumes! avagoodday Colin "Colin@SpriteParts" 22325... MORE
Thanks Bob, The gained hp is will be most welcome, even if there were none those darn pipes get in the way of working on the distributor and the smog pump in the way of the thermostat housing. Living in California where the smog wisdom goes like this . . .to reduce smog put MTBE a carcinogen in the gas that cuts your gas mileage by 10 percent and contaminates all the ground water. Don "Don May" 22337... MORE
"What about you, Cap'n Bob...." Right!! "What about Bob?"....Bob? I know just enough about everything to be dangerously ignornant of the severe mal-consequences of being in such a state!! Thus far, anyway! :) Talk about Peter Pan and "Never, never land"!! :):):) Fans for pulling heated air and vapors out of anything (including the engine compartment and crankcase) are just too intelligent to imagine!! In every respect, this is seems a great idea but, you better have a high capacity battery and/or alternator! Just kidding, Bob. Exhaust fans make perfect sense in all respects though with crankcase fumes, the... MORE
Radiator shop. Cheap. Ed "justbrits" 22305... MORE
