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G'day Jeremy I can supply a "pedal pivot repair kit" (two sintered bronze bushes and a new pivot bolt) for $24 USD including postage. regards Colin "Colin@SpriteParts" 22676... MORE


Hi; I was hoping you will be able to help. I was out today with my '61 bugeye. First gear has always been noisy, today as the revs climbed, the noise became almost a banging from the rear of the trans tunnel? Noise disappears when shifting up to 2nd. thanks Michael (Iver28) Rifton, NY. mcmcsey@... 22680... MORE


Jeremy, et al. Any good machine shop should be able to make you a set of bushings for your pedal pivot points. I have made numerous bushings for other applications out of a porduct called (in the business) Oil-lite (sp)......it is a medium hardness red brass alloy impregnated with oil. We have used it here at the plant for years for babbit type bearings on applications much more demanding than our brake pedals. Just my tuppence worth. David A. Stevens Jr. Utilities Engineer II NYS Office Of General Services Sheridan Avenue Steam Plant 79 Sheridan Avenue Albany, NY 12210... MORE


A question for the New World listers. The bushes for dual master cylinder pedals 2A5564 has been out of stock (in fact absent from price lists) in the UK for over a decade. Do any of the US (or maybe Antipodean) suppliers claim to stock it. There is so much play in my pedals I think the bushes may well have disintegrated by now. J. "Jeremy Cogman" 22667... MORE


As there was a thread recently regarding front end alignment, beginning with message 22461, I have posted a couple of photos of a simple apparatus that I used this week to estimate and rough-in the toe in on my Sprite this week, in case it might be useful. The apparatus comprises a 48" construction ruler, and a pair of 18" x 24" L squares. The short legs of the L squares are clamped to the opposite ends of the ruler, such that the long legs extend outwardly from the ruler and parallel to each other, such edges being separated... MORE


Does anyone have any ideas for flushing clogged brake lines on a 1972 MGB? I have thought about brake parts cleaner or compressed air or maybe even a combination of both. At this point I am unable to get fluid from reservoir to wheels by applying pedal pressure with known good master cylinder. Setup is dual tandem, non servo type. Thanks, Warren "nipper6579" 22577... MORE


I was wondering the correct engine starting procedure for a 1972 MGB 1800CC 4spd w/electric fuel pump and twin SU carbs. I can usually get it to start with manual choke on third try after pump stops clicking without touching the acceelerator pedal. I was wondering what the original owners manual said, if anything. The car was recently given to me and it has become my duty to bring it back to order. I have rebuilt and adjusted the carbs as well as performed normal tune-up procedures. Your help is appreciated! "nipper6579" 22575... MORE


Hi guys is this the same group i left, some 2 yrs ago. well im back at my sprite now. anyway just started stripping it to replaace the 2nd cill, and also fitting a 5 speed gear box while at it. So while the engine is out im looking to boost power. ie free flow exhaiust , hi lift cam. & poss hi lift rockers . i intend reusing the twin HS4 carbs but fit k & n Filters. Can anyone tell me of a proven choice of parts. ie f0r fast rd use. If I fit cam is... MORE


Although I don't have personal experience (yet), by all accounts Rivergate's Phantom Grip is a good LSD for the money. Jay Shaffer 22554... MORE


Hello...I am rebuilding a 1972 Midget and have totally stripped the car to the shell. Both kingpin/stub axles need repairing and I don't fancy tearing into it. Does anyone have any recomendations of places in the US for someone to rebuild the assembly for me? Thanks... ...Roger "Roger Treadwell" 22540... MORE


G'day all With the continuing discussion on wheel bearings, I thought I might copy you in on this post to the Oz discussion group. avagoodday Colin "Colin@SpriteParts" 22518... MORE


Hello All! Just signed up to this forum and thought I would post to say hello and all that! I've also signed up for membership to the club as I've just taken ownership of a 1969 Midget-based Arkey SS. All the running gear is Midget, but has the 1800 engine and gearbox of the B. Looking forward to becoming a regular poster! Cheers Mark "Mark Pereira" 22425... MORE


Everyone seemed to think it was the thrust washers causing a bad vibration upon acceleration. I replaced them yesterday, and while the old ones were worn a bit, the new ones did nothing to fix the problem. Now I need suggestions on where to look for where it's coming from. The engine is running perfectly, no vibration when not under load, only when accelerating. I am not sure how to tell if it's coming from the tranny or the rear end, but it does seem to coast with no problem. Could this be a bad motor mount? the driver's... MORE


I've recently changed the diff (a 3.9) on my mk2 Sprite. It was not whining at all but very rattly when coasting in or out of gear. I've put in a 4.2 until I get my hand on another 3.9. The 4.2 is a bit whiney but very little rattling though there is a little. The thing is, while doing the change I noticed the splines on the halft shafts were beginng to wear. On the leading edge of each spline there was an area of wear about 1/16th inch wide (i.e. that far 'down' the valley of the... MORE


Actually, Jeremy... The crankcase pressure is in and of itself the propellent in a "ventilated" rather than "evacuated" system, the former of which I prefer for exactly the reason you state in your post to Guy Weller....less dilution of already diluted octanes. Fr'instance, I think it was Chris who mentioned dragsters with vacuum pumps hooked up to evacuate crankcase pressure and considering THEIR applications I can well nigh understand this, considering THEIR crankcase pressures!! Whoa, whoa!! :) Obviously, for the normal LBC daily driver this would be overkill but the point is made, though we are talking apples and... MORE


okay: I went and looked at the pulley on the front, and there appears to be around 1/8 to 1/4" of fresh shaft sticking out of the block. my question now is, how do i get the crank back into place, and how do i know if I need oversize thrust washers? George "chuibuddy" 22261... MORE


could a faulty u-joint cause this? I just ran the car in 4th gear with the rear wheels lifted off the ground, and heard a slight knocking coming from under the car. I shut off the engine and crawled underneath, but didnt see anything wrong with either joint (for all i know) Ryan "ryanmill1" 22216... MORE


Ryan... There may or may not be a problem...it is not unusual to get noises emanating from the driveline of a standard shift car when running in gear with the driveline "unloaded". Cap'n. Bob '60 :{) PilotRob@... 22217... MORE


David, surprised that you havn't come across this stuff - its been around for years. Locktight make a range of these engineering adhesives. The common one is a blue fluid used extensively to stop nuts vibrating loose, but they also make several grades of adhesive for associated applications. One such is designed for fitting bearings and typical purpose would be to prevent an outer race turning in its housing (eg for wheel hubs) This is what I used for the 1500 thrust washers. I don't know if it made a difference but it was easier than pinning and I... MORE


the balancing machine consistes of a rotating spindle to which the wheel and tyre is fitted. The machine is run up to speed and a set of sensors then detect where the 'heavy' point is on the circumference. Lead(?) weights (the machine calculates how much) are added to the wheel rim opposite the heavy side to counteract this. The machine should also detect where the out-of-balance condition is across the width of the tyre, so sometimes weights will be on the inside, sometimes on the outside of the rim. To get an accurate assessment, the wheel needs to be... MORE


Bill, I understand that, when working correctly, the crankcase ventilation system should actually create a negative pressure ( at least a pressure less than ambient ) - not simply prevent a pressure build up. Negative crank case pressure would actively reduce oil loss. Having said that, I am not sure how you would check it! If I stretch plastic food wrap over the oil filler hole with the engine running, it pulls it downwards indicating a suction here. I use a non vented oil filler cap so that suction in the valve cover also equals suction in the crankcase... MORE


the best method is to get them balanced on the car - in the UK, Ford RS dealers had the equipment to do this as it was a particular point on Sierra Cosworths, but with the demise of that car, I don't know if they'll still have the gear. David "David Jacobs" 22123... MORE


that has reminded me - when you get new tires (or tyres) fitted to wire wheels, make sure they have the correct adaptors for fitting centre-lock wheels on their balancing machine - a lot of them make the wheel seat on the exposed part of the spokes where they stick through the hub. This isn't necessarily a flat true surface perpendicular to the wheel's axis, so it can make it look like the wheel isn't true. Regards David "David Jacobs" 22119... MORE


I would try and isolate the sound a bit more, best done by driving. When you say the vibration occurs above 2500rpm, is that the same for all gears, or is it realy related to road speed? In other words, does it relate to engine speed, as you suggest, or to road speed? Get up to "vibrating speed" and try shifting into neutral. If the noise continues then it is more likely connected with the transmission or running gear than the engine. Can you tell if it is a high speed vibration (prop shft?) or a lower speed related... MORE


Driving my '76 midget, at above about 2500rpm, especially in higher gears (it happens before 2500, just very minor), i get a vibration, and an un-nerving "vibrating sound" that seems to be coming from up front, passenger's side. I considered tire balance, and rotated them.. no fix. I thought it might be starved of fuel at high rpm, so i changed the fuel filter, then rebuilt the carb (needed done anyway) i thought about timing advance, so i changed the vacuum line to the distributor. I'm all out of ideas, you all have any before I exhaust my wallet... MORE