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Bill, It's out of a 65 amd is a non-synchro first gear box. I'm in Florida. Martyn "Martyn" 17852... MORE


Alan its simple really. They have difficulty operating the gear lever in the U S of A, so as the majority are right handed they drive from the left. This gives them a slightly easier job of changing gear properly. They certainly would not manage changing gear with a left hand! ;-) Guy "Guy Weller" 17776... MORE


I put in a new layshaft, thrust washers and some bits and bobs in my '74 using the Haynes manual, and it seemed pretty straightforward apart from the first motion shaft wouldn't come out of the casing the way the manual said. Having said that, I didn't dismantle the mainshaft at all. Regards David "David Jacobs" 17760... MORE


Strange as it is parts are now less expensive and accessible for the do it yourself folks than they were in the sixties. Then about the only places to have a Spridget repaired or to buy parts was at the usually one local British Motor car garage and they were always ridiculously expensive compared to other garages. They tended to cater to high end cars and the attitude was if you can afford a Jag you can pay more. That left Spidget owners who had paid all of 1500 dollars for their car at the mercy of high end... MORE


RBH.... $750 for an MGA? Grab it unless it's really a mess. The cars are going for 15K and up in reasonably restored decent shape with good engines. I want to hear from other listers who currently own/drive MGA's or are into them. I owned both my '56 and '61 back in my high school and college days. That was like 40 years ago but, this is what I think I remember. If I am wrong it's OK. I don't mind testing my memory in this respect and don't mind appearing a fool in front others if the following... MORE


G'day Mike Fitting a Marina 1300cc engine into a Sprite/Midget is pretty easy. But much more so if you already have the leftovers from a Sprite 1275cc engine. The sump is different, with the same size half-moon section at each end. This isn't a problem if you have the Marina sump. The sump extension at the back can be simply cut off wih a hacksaw. Front engine plate is different, but any old BMC engine plate will fit. You will need to remove the timing cover and gears, remove and replace the front engine plates then refit gear/chain and... MORE


G'day Guy The 1275cc style of plessure plate (6 1/2") is sensitive to the amount of travel, and if it gets too much the diaphram can go over-centre and the fingers distort. As you say, using a 7/8" slave cylinder can cause this to happen. But you usually pick this up immediately, as the car will show all the symptoms of the clutch not disengaging, ie: it crunches when you try to select gears. This is easily diagnosed, as you find the gear selection is fine with your foot half-way to the floor, but gets worse as you push... MORE


so what are the net gains from fitting the smaller bore slave cylinder, again? Sounds like a lot of trouble to go to, for more effort at the pedal! "David Jacobs" 17537... MORE


G'day Brad etc What size slave cylinder do you have? The 948cc and 1098cc cars used a 7/8" bore cylinder, with a 3/8" UNF hole for both the (solid) clutch pipe, and the bleed nipple. I have these for $### USD plus $5 shipping. The 1275cc cars used a 1" bore cylinder, with 7/16" hole for the flexible clutch hose. These ones are about $&&& USD, same $5 shipping. But I use the smaller slave cylinders on all cars. You get a slightly harder pedal, but longer travel at the business end. You just need to make up an... MORE


Colin, When I first rebuilt my Sprite I used a 7/8" diameter clutch slave for exactly the reasons you said - it gives a firmer pedal and longer travel. Within 3000 miles the clutch gave out. On close examination it had been "overthrowing", resulting in bent and distorted clutch cover plate fingers. I concluded that this was down to the use of the wrong slave cylinder so rebuilt it with the correct 1" bore size and have had no further problems. It may have been a one-off, but I for one would be wary of using the longer travel... MORE


Steve , I have had the same success as Don with WD40. Sprayed between all leaves both sides of both springs.Works best with the "straw" attached to the spray can so you can get a concentrated dose along each leaf joint. Seems better to do this with rear end jacked up and wheels off. Good time to top off the dampers while you're at it. Chuck CFickmour@... 17471... MORE


I have rebuilt the tandem master for the 65 Sprite, as well as the clutch slave. I placed the car on ramps to bleed the clutch. But now I get a variation when I depress the pedal. Sometimes it shifts perfectly, other times, I need to pump the pedal to build pressure to get it to shift. It is the solid line (no rubber hose) all the way to the slave. If it was air, wouldn't it need to be pumped all the time? So, list wisdom, please offer suggestions. Ed, I have a friggin book!!! Brad Fornal 17416... MORE


G'day Martyn I had the same problem trying to find a pivot pin for the pedals, so had a local machinist make one up. Well actually, I got him to make 40 of them! Almost every Sprite that comes into the shop to get the brakes fixed, has major slop in the pedals, pushrod forks, clevis pins etc etc. But I only have the pins for the earlier combined clutch/brake master cylinder. Will cost you $11 plus $4 shipping. I can get the other ones for the seperate master cylinders, but not sure how much - supplier is shut... MORE


Does anyone know where I can obtain a pivot bolt for the clutch and brake pedals. Mine is badly worn, a friend rebushed the pedals for me and tried to clean up the bolt first (turning it on a lathe- no luck the diameter was getting too small). I've tried Mo$$ etc with no luck. Thanks. Martyn "Martyn" 17383... MORE


G"day all, and happy new year to you. According to Terry Horler's Original Sprite and Midget, the RWA cars were produced from October 1971, and all badged as Midgets. Anders Ditlev Clausager (Curator(?) of the British Motor Industry Heritage Trust) agrees, in his book Sprites and Midgets. So all RWA cars are Midgets, right? So here's a conundrum. I own an Austin Sprite (AAN10/87699) which according to the BMIHT certificate was built on 4 June 1971, and it has round wheel arches. From personal inspection, and according to a few panelbeaters with Sprite/Midget experience, this is a genuine car... MORE


"Twas the night before Christmas and in the Garage, There wasn't a trace of a ford or a Dodge. The presents were wrapped, and the lights were all lit, So I figured I'd mess with the bugeye for a bit. I popped the t handle, and lifted the bonnet, When a deep voice behind me said" looks pretty good" Well as you can imagine, I turned mighty Quick, And there, by the workbench, stood good ole Saint Nick! We stood there a bit, not to sure what to say, Then he said, "don't suppose you'd trade for my sleigh?... MORE


With reference to your problems since having clutch fixed. 1. Did they fit a complete 3 piece clutch? 2. I recently took my engine out and replaced the clutch unit and inevitably when you remove an engine from a 35 year old (mine is 1967 too) engine it disturbs things. I had vibrations for a couple of weeks when accelarating in 3rd gear, turned out to be the timing had been knocked when hoisting the engine out. 3. Chinking noises could be tappets, put a screwdriver from your ear to the rocker cover while the engine is running and... MORE


Ref the Steering Rack, Use a grease gun emptied of grease and filled with Gear Oil (hypoid) and give 10 strokes only at the 12000 Mile service. Don't overdo it or you will damage the steering rack rubber boots! Hey but its fun! Easier if you have a dedicated grease gun. saves all the messing about. "Roger Stinson" 17008... MORE


I have a 60 bugeye with a 1098 gearbox installed. The fitting on the front U-joint does not face toward the access hole, and there is not enough room to get one of those angled fitings on a grease gun over fitting by going through the access hole. Can someone suggest how to get the grease gun onto the fitting? I'm also wondering if something was installed incorrectly? Also, my manual indicates that the front steering rack is to be lubed with 90 wt gear oil (I think - don't have the manual with me). The steering rack is... MORE


Good Morning All, Thanks for all the responses much appreciated. However it now gives me great pleasure to announce tonight's winner........... Well actually it's you all but special mention must go to Gerard who got it in 1, actually he got it in 4 but let's not split hairs! Checked fuses and all were fine, checked switch and all not looking quite so fine, in fact looking positively cruddy. Off comes the pedal cover and out comes the spray lube and 2 minutes later we have brake lights. Liberal doses of lube applied to both sides of the switch... MORE


If you are very lucky, some penetrating/lubricating oil might get you by... 5. The difficulty is, you can't unscrew the switch without at least loosening ALL the pedal box fixing screws. This is because the switch is oblong and won't clear the sheet metal of the inner fender without raising the box up. If you try to force it, you will likely break the switch (no pun intended). 6. It is possible, depending on your patience and skill level, to disassemble the switch and make it work again. (I have done it, no problem) Replacements should also be available.... MORE


Thanks guys for all the penetrating answers. ;-) Now I have to go over to where it is parked and change a rear tire that was on the ground, promptly exploded when air was put into it, need to see if it will roll enough to be pulled up on a flat bed tow truck. That should be interesting. One, I have never changed a wire wheel before. All thee spridgets and the TR4 I have owned in my lifetime had regular hubs. Two, It is the old octagon knock off that has been sitting in the weather for... MORE


In answer to your question about aviation, I very much regret to say that my answer must be in the negative. :-( I always wanted to be a pilot, but due to a small problem with the differentiation of very pale red/green I was never allowed to sit at the sharp end of one of those rather beautiful machines that fly, at least, not in the services, and all the other jobs were a bit of a let down after that. One of the things that I have always wanted to do. A bit senior for it now. As... MORE


Yeah..Bree... I AM getting more weird every day, no doubt about it...runs in the family. What can I say? On the other hand........ how else could it BE when I belong to car lists where the topic of the day is the male organ....I mean I've heard of organ accelerator pedals but, the male organ as a car part? I musta missed this somehow... I'll have to look this one up in my official Spridget Maintenance Manual, Part #AKM 2092...Let's see....is it "M" for "male", "C" for "cockpit" or "P" for.....(this is all very confusing...}:0-< Cap'n. Bob (Ret'd) '60... MORE


Bill, I recently bought new hex-headed bolts for my 1275 to replace unsightly PO-installed stuff. (I hadn't even thought of looking for Allen-headed cap screws, but now like the idea). Anyway, they are definitely NOT metric but ARE American National Fine, so your 20 TPI bolt sample is correct. The 11mm bolt previously used is close, but no cigar. 11mm = .433", slightly less than 7/16" (.4375") BUT the 11mm thread pitch is 1.5mm (.059") or approx 17 TPI , i.e. a bit coarser than the correct 7/16" X 20 TPI (.05" pitch). All this to say that the... MORE