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It is going to be 71* today, getting colder (56*) by Sunday, so I am going to replace the front bearings today. I have a Koyo inner roller bearing and a Beck Arnley ball type outer bearing. Neither one has any markings for "thrust" on it. My 1969 Chilton's doesn't even mention the front bearing replacement. The BMC shop manual, Bentley for the 1275 series cars, Clymer, and Glenns all mention the orientation of the word "thrust". The Haynes mentions that the word "thrust" may be on different sides, depending on the manufacturer. SO, with no more books to... MORE
Guy, I've done that before also. It is easy. Only drawback is doing on a car that has 40 years of accumulated gunk in the tunnel. Mot a problem for me as by the time I get to that stage, there isn't any debris in there anymore. A plastic bag as a sleeve over the arm will make the rest of the job less messy. Gerard "gerardchateau" 16766... MORE
I know I have said this before, and it caused some amusement, but it is perfectly do-able lie under the car and to reach your arm, full length in along beside the prop shaft and hold the front U/J with your fingers and guide it into the G/box tail shaft. Sounds like you need very long arms but it is really very easy. I used to mess around with coat hangers, bits of foam and bungee straps until one day I tried this and was surprised at just how easy it was! Guy u-joints "Guy Weller" 16755... MORE
You know, Dave Jacobs... That's what I thought, too. Figured an A or B box with 1st locked out, but the Metropolitan's box has a non-synchro first and is column mounted instead. Maybe it's an A or B box with 4th locked out through a higher diff? I am not knowing but supposedly, this is all standard Austin A 50 running gear according to Slightly Classics. The truck-like floor mounted handbrake on the extreme left side of the driver's compartment (LHD) was sort of unexpected, as well. Very cool little car! Cap'n. Bob (Ret'd) '60 Frog PilotRob@... 16680... MORE
I have recently had the engine out to replace gearbox and whilst at it changed the cam shaft (1275cc) and the fan and the front brakes to extra large disks and callipers and the diff and propshaft and .................. (Another casualty of while it is in bits story). Obviously I have had the sump off this has been replaced with new gaskets and rubber front and back half moon seals.Previously we had no oil leaks now it don't exactly drip but dribble. I know I will have to take the sump off again but any ideas how to get... MORE
Yo!! Anyone owning one of these great cars... Could you tell me the factory recommended gearbox lubricant for this type? For the "B" I know it was motor oil but for the "A", I can't recall whether it's the same or gear oil. TIA! :) Cap'n. Bob (Ret'd) '60 Frog PilotRob@... 16656... MORE
Thanks Bob, Thanks for the information. I was wondering if I would have to buy any additional parts to use the wire wheels off the 69 on my 63 using the front and rear wire hubs from 69 to do the change over. New hub change over kits are rather expensive. Don From: Robert Webb To: midgetsprite@yahoogroups.com Sent: Wednesday, November 20, 2002 5:36 PM Subject: [midgetsprite] Re: Parts swap list No list that I know of, but what were you thinking of? I have a 60 Bugeye and the donner car for it was a 69 MG. My Bugeye... MORE
Inside the car, the choke looks very original, and in place (whether it is is deabatable) but under the hood, it looks very amateur. The choke was indeed sticking, so that may take care of my gas- mileage and acceleration problems, and it drives quite a bit better (i'm testing my mileage this tank, so we'll see) As for the shaking, a tire-balancing fixed that. My rear brakes are back in service. (the pressure-differential warning actuator was stuck, and blocking flow to the rear) I think i'm back in business, thanks for the advice. Ryan "ryanmill1" 16551... MORE
Ryan, You're one up one me! I only have a chiltons import manual dated 1976. Unfortunately my car is a 78. LOL! Look in your moss motors catlaog at the ZS auto choke unit (page 88 part #20) and see if it looks similiar to the choke on your car. that should tell you if it's origional or not. Mine has been converted to manual choke, but still has this part of the auto choke. This was the source of all kinds of headaches for me. If it doesn't look similar, check your float level! does the tail pipe... MORE
Bela- I know what you mean about winding up the engine for no good reason on a daily driver. Could not agree with you more. My current "build" is specifically "tailored" to to the low and mid-range and while it will rev. freely to 6.5K, there is just no reason to "go there", especially with the 5 spd. Shifting at 5,000 puts me in a good position "torque-wise" with the next higher gear in all cases. What size is the ZS on your 1500? 1.5" (38mm) or 1.75 (44mm)? As I would think the mfg. knew what he was... MORE
About 6months ago i purchased a '76 Midget that had been sitting garaged for the better part of a year. Because of that period of time undriven and the age of the vehicle, I knew there would be work to do. (a great first car, and well worth the work) I've been slowly replacing about everything with any kind of rubber seals as it goes bad. (hyraulic cylinders, oil seals at the rear wheel bearings, etc) a few weeks ago, one of the rear brake cylinders went bad, so i replaced both sides. I went to bleed the system,... MORE
Ryan, Sounds to me like the rubber flexible lines that go from the back of the body shell to the rear axle have swollen shut with age. Unless you have replaced these already, that is what I would suspect. Had this happen to me on 2 out of 3 LBC's I have had. Be careful with the flare nuts, as I have had difficulty finding exact replacements. They are a metric flare. David A. Stevens Jr. Utilities Engineer II NYS Office Of General Services Sheridan Avenue Steam Plant 79 Sheridan Avenue Albany, NY 12210 "Stevens, David" 16454... MORE
Keith P-R.... Yes...keeping the front end well greased will pay off big time over time. I myself, am looking forward to Spring, which for me is only 3.5 months away!!:) Global warming has it's merits.... once you get past Feb. it's pretty much downhill from there though there have been a few years in the past 40 or so when this has not exactly been the case in Connecticut up here in the Northeast. But normally we have less of "the stuff" every year, My BE will stay warm and cozy under it's cover while the Golf/GTI does the... MORE
George Stronghilos writes: "After all this I may have to sell my Judson"! Well, George....maybe! But, I can only go by the experience of others along with my own and advise I was heavily into the Judson application and it's success. Without at least a water/ meth. delivery system, my experience (along with those of others) tells me it's an uphill battle on today's pump octanes. Racing fuel is a different matter. I even had an engine built for the Judson. I just installed my new Rivergate 1293 and it runs just beautifully. Very smooth and very strong even... MORE
Hey, Guys!! Bree was kidding in her response to my supercharger posts!! Really!! But...if I were to do this again, I would spring extra bucks for the Shorrocks rather than the less expensive Judson, most especially on the larger bore engines in view of the fact we know the Shorrocks has a "yellow" zone beginning at approx. 7,200 and a "redline" of 7,500. All you'd probably need then for a 6psi boost curve on the larger capacity engine would be a smaller blower pulley. I'd not be surprised if Jon Peck of BCSC hasn't had a few of these... MORE
LOL, Alan... Not a matter of leisure time at all. When I get interested in something, I really get interested and as a pilot, I know how to "focus", man!! :):) Super/turbo charging IS a project, Alan and it will pay to do your homework in this respect and know the whys and wherefores of what you are getting into before you go there! It did take some time to write it out on the screen but the thoughts took no time at all! They just came pouring out as a product of "BTDT" in terms of supercharging and... MORE
at a guess, I'd say it was sucking air in somewhere else, too - worn butterfly spindle/bushes, or poor seal at the manifold joints? or possibly the air valve piston thingy is sticking a bit and not dropping down fully. Regards David "David Jacobs" 16216... MORE
funny you should say dirty points as we had a storm the other night and the engine had just gone back in the car so i covered it with a tarpaulin but the wind blew it off and in the morning the distributor was full of water a s the cap was left off, i just gave it a quick wipe down.=0D =0D You can feel it through the accelarator, do you think the engine mounts=0D might need tightening or replacing now they have been disturbed? =0D Something I noticed was the vacuum unit on top of the distributor... MORE
You can feel it through the accelarator, do you think the engine mounts might need tightening or replacing now they have been disturbed?=0D Something I noticed was the vacuum unit on top of the distributor had come loose.=0D =0D No I definitely cleaned all in the clutch and it was a complete 3 piece new=0D clutch. =0D =0D did you disconnect the=0D propshaft at the axle end when you took the engine =0D out? they always say you should mark it so you replace it the same way =0D (personally, I can't see why this should be, as the... MORE
No I definitely cleaned all in the clutch and it was a complete 3 piece new clutch.=0D =0D did you disconnect the propshaft at the axle end when you took the engine=0D out? they always say you should mark it so you replace it the same way=0D (personally, I can't see why this should be, as the thing wouldn't have bee n=0D balanced on the car in the first place)=0D David=0D "geojon" 16162... MORE
Didn't touch the axle or prop.=0D Do you think it could be engine mountings?=0D =0D "geojon" 16158... MORE
did you disconnect the propshaft at the axle end when you took the engine out? they always say you should mark it so you replace it the same way (personally, I can't see why this should be, as the thing wouldn't have been balanced on the car in the first place) David "David Jacobs" 16156... MORE
Just to let everyone having a bit of trouble with their clutch. This weekend I had to repair the pivot joint where the clutch pedal attaches to the clutch master cylinder pushrod. I got some advice from this list and found the joint worn pretty bad a while back and just installed pieces of tubing to "bush" it until I could get it repaired better this weekend. What I did was to bend a new peice of steel into the "U" shape the pushrod has and drill the bolt holes 1/4 inch farther out. (The "U" is now 1/4... MORE
I have a 1975 Midget that I need to take off the crank shaft pulley bolt the bolt that holds on the crank shaft pulley I think it is around 1 3/4 What is the exact size so I can buy a socket for that.? and when I get that off will the pulley come off easy or do I need to buy a pulley puller? Thanks Dave David & Kay Maroscher fire@... David & Kay Maroscher 16086... MORE
"Wider tires giving better turning and stopping" but worse handling on a Midget. You lose the feedback and controllability enjoyed by drivers of sensibly-tyred Midgets. As someone who enjoys driving my Sprite (as opposed to merely operating it) I will not recommend any tyre wider than 155. (Maybe 165 if you've got a modified 1275) "Lower profile tyres have lower sidewalls and therefore less sidewall flex which results in better handling." Usually because the rubber is the heaviest part of the wheel- less rubber = less unsprung mass, meaning the suspension can do its job better. One caveat is... MORE
