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This is a job I have done a few times, and the spacer has always been able to move about after removal of the hub from the car. The original workshop manual for cars up to and including the 1275 spridgets shows no shims with the spacer and I have never found them necessary, but hey, what do I know? Other listers may have other ideas. On later cars of different models made by the same manufacturer the spacer was designed to be slightly crushable to ensure correct assembly, and therefore required replacement with the bearings, [use shims to... MORE


Charles Christ said: [...] Hmm, the last fellow I know that did this speared off into the trees when the new hardware broke. (grade 5 bolts). Wrote off the body shell (hit a *big* tree about 15ft off the ground, and then they fell to the ground (both unhurt luckily). It was a road winding along a gorge above a river. So if you do replace the hardware, use a reputable brand. Myself? I just reuse the existing bolts unless they show signs over overtorqueing. If I spent enough time to look at the available brands and saw some... MORE


I'll be honest, I've never quite understood what this spacer does. However I've never come across shims being used here. Don't forget these are not taper bearings and they therefore don't have to have a side load to 'adjust' them. They are meant to run slightly looser than taper bearings. jeremy.cogman@... 14860... MORE


Jay Shaffer asked: pin Firstly, go and do the checks listed at http://www.ahsdc.org/goblins/tech/frontend.htm That will tell you if anything else is in *need* of repair/replacement. Now my observations: 1) just replacing the fulcrum pin is a waste of time. The pin rotates on its threads and since the pin is hardened, the wear is not just limited to the pin itself - the threaded insert in the a-arm is certain to be worse! While you can buy the repair kit and braze them in yourself, most folks just buy reconditioned (change-over) units. I think Peter C now has a-arms... MORE


Forget using grade 5 bolts for anything other than holding the license tag on. Grade 8 are considerably stronger, cost perhaps a nickel more and are available from any fastener supplier. Every city of any size will have a source. AS far as the front end - if the fulcrum pin and/or bushes are badly worn, chances are everything else is too. Take it apart and see. A complete major suspension kit is cheap if you are going to race. Shucks, it's cheap for a street car...and, by all means, crack check everything. Twice. "tloutrec" 14838... MORE


That's what I did. I used a large pipe wrench to hold the pulley still while I broke the puley bolt loose. Worked pretty good. Make sure you oil the seal before you slide the shaft through. I didn't. Did it all over again 3 mos later. Good luck Alex ' 61 midget COFNCAR "Alex Volk" 14842... MORE


Handbrake feels kind of springy when pulled up - it is obviously doing something but not enough! The '71 Sprite has the funny little turret compensator thing on the back axle and I suspect that is where the problem lies. Ends of the rods look OK and are a close fit on the clevis pins without much free movement. Guy "Guy Weller" 14788... MORE


I cannot get the handbrake to lock up the rear wheels on my '71 Sprite. It has new shoes and cylinders at the back, brakes are bled and work fine on the pedal - it will lock all 4 wheels with only moderate foot pressure on the pedal. Just the handbrake dosn't do much and the MOT tester wants it improoved before he will pass it. It has new handbrake cable, and all the cotter pins and pivot points on the rods seem OK. Ideas very welcome! Guy "Guy Weller" 14773... MORE


Anyone have a good reverse Idler gear lying around the garage for a 78 Midget? I just picked up a decent four speed trans. from a 79 Spitfire. It is in muche better shape than the one in my Midget, but it has some funky wear on the idler gear. I'd be happy to pay a fair price for it... Bela "beladona_13" 14782... MORE


Hi The end of the oiling system is the rocker shaft and rockers. On my 1275 the shaft was worn real bad and the rocker bushings were also worn. I took the valve cover off while the motor was running and I was flooded with oil squirting out of everywhere. I replaced the shaft and found some rockers that weren't worn as bad and it shore improved my oil pressure hot. Take off the valve cover and see how much oil is passing through there while running and hot could be there is no resistance there for the oil... MORE


DCOE or SU "upgrade". When properly tuned for the application (and I am talking very "generally" here 'cause I am aware of the many "variables" which could concievably make for exceptions!) and all else being equal: The "fixed venturi" DCOE carb. will usually provide better top end...as opposed to the latter "variable venturi" SU type which usually provides superior bottom end and mid-range torque. Cam utilized can obviously be chosen (in a general sort of way) to "match" whichever carb. you choose. Depends upon application, also. (A cam with Sprint timing isn't a wise choice for the "street"!:) Fr'instance,... MORE


LOL, Chris! I get enough flying when on duty but the carrot cake and coffee does sound pretty good! It's just that something does not sound right here in my experience with Series "A" and "B" engines which includes two MGA's, a number of B's and my original (high school) 948 Bugeye in addition to my current 1293 frogeye. In all cases, starting in all but winter temps. hardly ever involved use of the choke. A little pump on the pedal while cranking usually starts any of the LBC's I've run. Rarely was more than very temporary use of... MORE


Hey all, I just got my Midget together and started for the first time today. The good news is it runs like an elgian watch! I used a 74 Triumph Spitfire water pump and fan to get rid of the old fan clutch system. Works like a dream! The bad news is my transmission grinds in reverse. The gear shift shakes and the car lurches back in rather spastic little leaps. It barley moves in reverse and sounds terrible! A couple of questions: Does this car (78 Midget) have a ribbed or smooth case trans.? I haven't been under... MORE


Gerard, Had a similar situation only the front level was to high and I was spewing gas out the overflow. I changed to gross jets, replaced the floats, gaskets etc.still had the problem. Took it to the lbc mechanic who diagnosed it as a worn throttle shaft, replaced it with the oversize and no more leak, runs smooth as silk. Hope it helps Bob 60 AN5 Tampa MTGBRKR1@... 14584... MORE


I have a bizarre situation that so far I am anable to remedy. These are AUD404 SU's used with the air injection system ('71). The air injections is removed system and the nainfild vacuum ports are capped, The air tubes in the sides of the carb body are connected together rather than being capped. There are no fuel leaks and I haven't been able to detect excessive shaft wear or vacuum leaks anywhere. The jet nuts are down 12 flats and the butterflies are identically matched/sync'd At first the car started easy and idled fine, but would miss when... MORE


All right, I confess, I've had GFJ (Wife's truly original name for our midge) since new in '66. [I was only 12 when I bought it - honest :-) oops there goes my nose again] and as a person who has mechanical sympathy, she always got the very best of treatment, including loads of greasing, regular oil changes and regular cooling maintenance. That IS the car by the way. I have had to resolder the top stub into the rad a couple of times though, but never really had any trouble doing so, tinning of parts always helps, as... MORE


re: Rog and Bob G's prev. posts- The marginal capacity of the cooling system along with the limited room for a heat exchanger make a strong case for sharing heat removal with the oil system. The difference between a non-oil cooler equipped engine and one so equipped becomes immediately noticeable once you get on the highway and go to sustained revs. and most especially in summer temperatures with the 4.22 diff. The oil pressure gauge tells the tale! Bought a non-equipped '67 for a girlfriend of mine many years ago....I had blown up her old VW unit and the... MORE


Having rebuilt my 1275 and now having to start again as the gearbox has exploded after 800 miles (Moss !) I need space and have some bits and pieces surplus to requirements. Dynamo Anti trap bars original inlet manifolf and carbs 5 roystyle wheels steering wheel original seats weber inlet manfold for MGB distributor original two original half shafts 11/16th anti role bar located Leeds UK "Peter Whittle" 14445... MORE


The most likely cause is that the Bendix was stuck on the ring gear. If you rolled it forward in gear, it freed itself when the engine turned. I may need to be removed and lubricated. The other possibility is you are developing an intermittent starter. This happens when the brushes are worn to the point where the is little spring pressure on them. Another possibility is the hot lead sometimes gets flakey from being disconnected improperly. It develops high resistance and becomes tempermental. Gerard "gerardchateau" 14406... MORE


Brad- The Xflow wasn't used because it was a "better" radiator than the downflow necessarily according to a fellow lister who stated it was used because it simply fit better with the Spridget body design. Don't know whether I "buy" the above or not. I will tell you that old radiators get gunked up with scale which may not be totally removeable, especially if the radiator in questioned did not have the benefit of annual maintenance. You may very well find that replacement of the old radiator with a downflow OR Xflow in better internal condition as discussed above... MORE


Hi, I have a 76 1500 midgut and here is what happened. Last week, Friday to be exact, I tried to start my midget after work, but it would not turn. A voltage check told me that I had full volts in the battery. (12.5) For some reason of which is still not clear to me, I put the car into fourth gear and rolled it forward. Then when I tried the key again, it started. Now, I have done all the work on this car and have faced many of the peculiarities with the breed, but this was... MORE


Can you grip the shock with a gear puller with the puller screw bearing on the broken bolt? "tloutrec" 14313... MORE


I'd disagree with you here, Cap'n - the high lift rockers don't actually alter the cam timing at all. It's just that at a given point on the ramp, the valve will be open more. In effect, they get to the same valve lift sooner, so I see where you're coming from. Yours pedantically David PS it's possible to lessen the loading on the valve gear a little by using slightly softer valve springs - the increased leverage of the longer rocker arms means the springs are more effective in controlling everything. PPS that reminds me - don't forget... MORE


Glad to hear it is better. Second hand hubs are not that pricey, so it may be worth picking up a pair. Try Andy Jennings or Watford Classic Cars, both advertise at www.mgcars.org.uk. "Jeremy Cogman" 14219... MORE


Jeremy, Gerard, et al I've used some loctite "stud and bearing fit" today and the fit is vastly improved. Some slight movement, but none on the outer race. Both sides were affected - I might try different bearings ( the new ones I had were from Moss) in the medium term or hubs if that does not work. I am assuming that the loctite stuff will be strong enough to last for a while though. Chris "howes" 14209... MORE