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George, I've got a set with just roller tips, not the type with the main bush replaced with rollers (for the price, I suspect Minimania's are the same). Make sure the kit contains a new shaft (or get one if it doesn't) as the old one will probably be as worn as the old rocker bushes. If you do get the full roller type, it's recommended that the oil feed to the rockers is restricted slightly compared with plain bush types, and it must be clean as any bits in the oil will wreck roller bearings in no time... MORE
In the 65 Sprite is some type of floor covering, it is stitched to cover the tranny tunnel around the shifter and has heel pads sewn in, so I know it is not homemade. It is gray in color and looks like a cross of felt and scotchbrite. Anyone ever seen anything like this before?? Brad Brad Fornal 14201... MORE
Not dim questions at all, we are all happy to help. The bearing should be flush with the face of the hub (I think, that's always the way I've done it anyway, I'm not sure it will go in any further). J. "Jeremy Cogman" 14196... MORE
Guy, That sounds exactly the same as I got when I did my diff. Regards David "David Jacobs" 14195... MORE
Hi Mark, You sent me some good advice on rebuilding my sprite diff, way back in March. I have finally got round to ordering the parts. The supplier has sent me 2 "planet gear" shims which look like bowl-shaped copper washers (phospher-bronze ?) They look OK He also sent 2 "sun gear" shims which are larger, thin flat washers and look like they are made of some kind of hard plastic material - bit like electronic ciruit board stuff. Does this sound right to you? - I was expecting something a bit more technical! Guy "Guy Weller" 14194... MORE
Gerard Thanks mate. I will try and drift the bearing further into the hub before retrying - and use a locking adhesive if I can get some. Sorry to ask dim questions all the time - I am suffering from having only run company cars (i.e someone else maintains them!). Still, it is fun learning. By the way, I re-designed the rear undercarriage to accept a later style radius arm box. Only a bit of cutting and grinding and it does seem to have strenghthened the whole area. Rear axle etc. is all fitted now (well, when I get... MORE
Chris, Ditto on Jeremy's advice. Sounds like the bearing is loose in the hub. If the outer race can work free, the bearing wonlt be doing it's job. Gerard "gerardchateau" 14185... MORE
Yes I have experienced this before on a hub. Basically the bearing is not a tight fit in the hub. Whether this is caused by very slightly undersized bearings or damage caused to the hub at some time in it's history by pressing in a bearing slightly skew I don't know. It's probably OK, though if it's loose enough the bearing may starting turning in the hub which will just make the situation worse. I solved this problem by acquiring another hub (they are pretty cheap second hand) but in the shorter term I might be tempted to remove... MORE
David, are you talking about the o-ring that goes between the hub and the halfshaft flange or the lip oil seal that goes in the hub inboard of the bearing. jeremy.cogman@... 14177... MORE
Jeremy I am not sure if I am just worrying over nothing. The play i referred to is actually movement of the hub between the bearing and the axle itself. Bearing seems to be fully home and the hub nut fully tightened. I am guessing that this isn't a problem because the wheel nuts will pull the hub tight onto the bearing. When this happens, there will be a 2 or 3 mm gap between the hub and the axle shoulder (allowing the hub free movement). Is this right? Chris "howes" 14174... MORE
I have experienced worn hubs where the bearing moves within the hub. Also are you sure the bearing has seated back against the shoulder on the axle? That said because they are not adjustable you will get a little movement but it should only be a little. "Jeremy Cogman" 14170... MORE
Dear All I have just re-furbished the rear suspension on my '58 (including a few mods to strengthen it as it is an early car) and have replaced the hubs and bearings...but there is a little play between the hubs and the axle itself (with bearings, hub nut tightened but no wheel). Is this normal - or should I be aiming for no play at all? If the latter, what mistakes might I have made? Regards Chris '58 Frogeye "howes" 14168... MORE
Toyguy- Go gently here or you'll "wear" the splines Brad. (This is also the reason why you keep these things lubricated on a periodic basis!). Plenty of kerosene or penetrating oil (over time). Put the knockoffs back on and move the thing around....then do it again as often as necessary and eventually, they'll slide off the way they should. Yeah, you can beat on 'em but that'll just put wear and tear on the whole spline/hub thing...better to loosen them "naturally". You'll only be going through this procedure once, anyway, right? Cap'n. Bob '60 :{) PilotRob@... 14156... MORE
one method I've read, but never tried myself, is to loosen the nut and lower the car back down to the ground and roll it back and forth - the weight is supposed to help break the taper. Don't forget the copperslip when you eventually get them off! Regards David "David Jacobs" 14149... MORE
I am trying to remove the wire wheels from the 65 Midget. They are frozen on the hub it seems. Anyone have any tried and true methods of removal they would recommend? I want to get to the shocks and the tires have to come off for that. I already have a 3 arm puller on there and have it as tight as I dare go, and it still isn't budging. I am also banging on the hub with a hard plastic mallet to no avail. what next?????? Brad Brad Fornal 14147... MORE
Bout the AA stuff.. had a short briefing today.. seems all the F100's are being phased out when maint. due. AA is going to a rolling hub set up (longer between flights - layovers longer).. but they also said to look for an increase in AA egglet flights.. that good for you Bob? yep.. something new.. lay off thousands.. people left picking up the slack, working harder...sure - thats new stuff. Well.. back to primer paint time.. floor looks good..must try some on the spridget! =) chuck n tx croche 14102... MORE
Well, the clutch pedal and MC might not get worked on tonight. I'm driving home the new scarab green beetle! 30% German, 30% Candian, 100% assembled in Mexico! That all should add up to British shouldn't it? Robert Houston Santa Teresa, NM '74 Midget 63 TR4 .. NOTICE - This message and any attached files may contain disinformation that is confidential, superfulous, possibly vulgar, and often without taste or any socially redeeming value intended only for use by the intended recipient or anyone so unlucky as to accidentally receive this. If you are not the intended recipient or the... MORE
Got my Arkley through its MOT test on Friday, so now it's on the road instead of just being trailered to autotest events (did anyone see it at Silverstone in the California Cup Autotest?). Looking forward to some fresh air motoring I set off for a drive with the hood down. However as soon as I got up to about 30mph, instead of fresh air I had the strong odour of exhaust fumes - like driving a Minivan with the back doors open. Is this a characteristic of the aerodynamics of the Arkley rear end?, as I don't remember... MORE
Kevin, Ed an helpful listers, I finally got to spend a couple of minutes with the Midget this evening and the wifey even consented to come out and pump the clutch pedal a few times. Problem is, the pedal wont pump. When you push it in, it goes to the floor and stays there. I pulled it up by hand, filled the MC and wifey pushed it down while l loosened the bleeder on the slave and fluid is making it that far anyway. I took the plate off the pedal box and oiled the heck out of the... MORE
Right! first things first. I took a leisurely trip to Spa Francochamps - tooled around there for a few days. Of course I had to take prozac in order to enjoy the countryside roads in other ways than with my right foot. Then a relaxing drive down through france with various interesting stops along the way. Then one day - aah magic! the first 1000 km were clocked- off to the garage - drop the running-in oil - replace the filter, torque the head, pop in new oil and dump the pills. The rest of the trip dissapeared in... MORE
OK...before you all pass out from the oddity of me asking a Spridget question...how about some advice. I bought a new battery for the Midget today. The hot weather is dropping down into the low 90's so it's to start driving the Midget again. Real men don't cre about skin cancer! Got a little adventure added to life while I was changing the battery. I was scrunched over the fiender, head under the bonnet struggling with the posive battery cable when I glanced down (about 6 inched down) at the solenoid and there was the biggest black widow spider... MORE
I have just put a set of their 'Ultimate' Carpets (part number NO34AA) and I am well pleased with them. They are a good fit although putting the ones on the rear arches especially with a Roll Over Bar fitted were a pain. The original set had a miss sewn tunnel piece (the most complicated one) but they swapped this out at no cost to me. So apart from the delay their service was good. My internal Trim I got from Moss which were also a good fit and matched the originals. Geri 67 Sprite Mk IV "G &... MORE
Don, I'm sure you're right about the source of the oil, but there's no way I know of, short of cutting out the tranny tunnel, of replacing it. It's very difficult to remove when you have good access to it. It can be done in car in a Morris, but not in a Spridget. Gerard "gerardchateau" 13884... MORE
It is theoretically possible with the glass in place, but incredibly difficult. This is because there is no space to work, and the 'u' clips that hold the rubber strip in place point upwards, so when you pull the old strip out, the clips will not stay attached to the door, but will fall off inside to the bottom; then, when you're putting the new strip in place, you have to pull the strip and u-clips (the new ones you bought to replace those that are now rattling about in the door) upwards together, to fasten onto the turned-over... MORE
On a MK1 Midget can you replace the rear transmission extension oil seal without pulling the engine and transmission? While taking out the carpets for replacement I found the underlayment soaked with oil seeping onto the passenger floor from along the seam of the transmission tunnel where it is spot welded to the passenger floor. :-( I suspect it is coming from the rear transmission oil seal. Haven't jacked the car up yet, but know I have no oil leaks from the engine. Don "Don May" 13878... MORE
