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Hey Cap'n Bob I am using the spax tube fit on the rear end only. I have not seen were they make them for the front end. But answer the rest of the question I do daily driving on good weather day, Highway rural road use and have had good results with the conv. I don't have that nice feeling of hitting the ground now it is a nice smooth ride. Jason 1971 MG Midget "Jason Gross" 6079... MORE
I searched for poly rear bushings and came up empty. So I fashioned nylon bushings for my '62 1/4 spring car, which improved handling, particularly reducing bump steer by locating the axle. However, the improvement was short lived. The stock radius arms were not up to the extra duty as they both sheared during a parking lot autocross. Fun while it lasted! I installed Winners Circle adjustable links with rod ends and was already running WC Carrera adjustable shocks. Stock bump steer has returned, but will be corrected with a minimania panhard bar. Overall ride is very good and... MORE
Hey Rick I just did mine last month, It is pretty simple 1. you unbolt the old stock shocks 2. you bolt on the supplied mounting plate to the old position of the old shocks (They only send 2 new bolts in the kit so I went out and pick up 4 new bolts and wahsers just incase) 3. this is were I got stuck a little, you then have to swap from pass to driver side the plate that the u-bolts go through that hold the leaf springs to the axle. and when you put them on make... MORE
I've pulled off the rear end & suspension from my '63 Sprite parts car for use on my Bugeye rebuild. Currently cleaning & disassembling all the parts, but have a couple of questions for the Lists before I start reassembling. 1) Should the bushings in the 1/4 springs & the radius arms be replaced with polyurethane? If so, who sales them? - I haven't seen them in the VB or M*ss catalogues. 2) The front end will be 1" lower, so I would like to lower the rear by about 1/2" to 1". If I remember previous discussions correctly... MORE
Hi Chris If it's a rolling shell you can check it (as I did mine) by chalk marking the diff flange and a wheel, rolling the car forward and comparing the number of turns. The four bolt holes in the flange are handy for estimating parts of a turn. This is simple easy and quick. Regards Dave (66 Sprite in the UK) "David Dixon" 6148... MORE
I think you will find that BTA548 is the part number of the diff housing. The M&G International parts book lists the diff housing assembly (complete with caps) as BTA549. The other part numbers you mention are for the complete assemblies with crownwheels & pinions, etc. There is a small flat on top of the diff housing (about 11 o'clock) which has stamped on it the number of teeth on the crownwheel and pinion - i.e. 9/38 for 4.22, 10/39 for 3.9. You will need to scrape off the accumulated crud and view it with a torch/flashlight and a... MORE
On the near side surface of the diff (about 2 o'clock as you're looking at it from the propshaft - the exact opposite place as the MOWOG lettering on the off side of the diff) are some raised numbers on the casing that start BTA... These are the ones I've got listed in an old M&G International parts list... BTA 550 = 4.2 BTA 1222 = 3.9 BTA 551 = 3.7 Mine says BTA 548 but I can't find that one listed anywhere ... anyone? Mark. "Mark Hipwell" 6017... MORE
Does anyone out there know the numbers and what ratios they correlate to for rear axles? I just bought a 77 bodyshell with an axle in it and I'm curious to find out which ratio it has. Chris N. Raleigh, NC cwn8382@... 6005... MORE
Chris I was under the impression that the rear gear ratio stayed the same for all of the 1500s. I know I am turning a lot of revs when I'm on the highway trying to keep up the guys in Bs that are trying for the land speed record (or so it seems to the tightly wound little spridget) john Poynton 79 Midget "Yellow Fever" teachjp@... 5914... MORE
Allen I plan on doing the kink pins in my 1500 this winter. Is it really that bad and what are the things to look out. With the upper link removed I presume the spindle should just slide off the king pin. How difficult is it to remove the fulcrum pin. Is it best to remove the arm and king pin together. Doug 77 "Doug Pletcher" 5906... MORE
Just to be sure: There are not 73 1275 with full synchro gearbox??? Are they all 1st gear non synchro as mine?? Jorge Dimitrakis 73 Midget 1275 RWA Buenos Aires - Argentina "Jorge Dimitrakis" 5895... MORE
I drove my Midget for over 45 miles today and enjoyed every bit of it. Well at least until my oil pressure gauge dropped to ZERO while zipping along at 50 mph. The problem was not too bad as the line from the block to the gauge split an it was squirting oil everywhere. After pinching off the line, I was able to get the auto parts store and purchase a kit and fix it. The oil pressure does pretty good as it idles at 55 psi cold and 35 psi hot with it being at 45 psi at... MORE
Reading that you say first gear isn't syncromesshed, is that why I hear a funny sound (sometimes) from my 79 1500 in first gear, and kind of feel bumps thru the shift lever, or do I have some other problems that are coming? Willy "Wm. Thompson" 5872... MORE
The usual culprit is a worn out clutch release bearing- the carbon is probably worn down enough that the brass carrier is pressing on the clutch release surface. You can inspect the release bearing through the clutch release lever hole- you'll need a flashlight. The carbon block should protrude from the carrier at least a couple of millimetres. The other possibility is worn out crankshaft thrust bearings- with the engine running, watch the front crankshaft pulley as your beautiful assistant pushes the clutch pedal- if you see the pulley move forwards, then its engine rebuild time. My money's on... MORE
My bugeye with a 1098 engine has an idling speed several hundred rpm's higher (when warm) when in neutral with the clutch pedal up than it does when the clutch is pressed in. Is that normal? Thanks rlirwin@... 5842... MORE
Hello Everyone I have a rear end up date on my 1971 MG Midget The shop says that when they rise the front end it levels the whole car out. They this is caused by the king pins being worn. Could this be true? Jason 1971 MG Midget What was going on was that the car was leaning to the right as looked at the rear end. All brand new leaf springs and cov.shock kit Spax "Jason Gross" 5796... MORE
Yup your right Primer is porous and it will hold water. I just did the rear end of my car last weekend and I scraped, sanded, primed and then painted with flat black rustolium before putting the undercoating on. Long answer sorry But you right Jason Maine 1971 MG Midget GAN 5 UB 94654 G "Jason Gross" 5795... MORE
I couldn't help her guys, maybe you can: "My 1967 MGB GT isn't running right now. It has an overheating problem which is making me crazy. I have replaced the thermostat, replaced the radiator, replaced the temperature gauge and rebuilt the heater. The next step is the water pump then the head gasket!!! If that doesn't work I may just shoot it between the headlights and bury it in the back yard! ARRRRGGGGHHHH! There is also a bit of a transmission problem. I hope (Ah...eternal hope!) to get it back on the road for the MG swap meet on... MORE
Also, "clutch woes"- A good time to possibly upgrade to a "roller" throw-out bearing in place of the "stock" carbon-type? I have found "action" to be much smoother with these and even though they do not have the problem Grant writes about in his post, have always felt you are better off in neutral than "holding" clutch pedal "in gear", anytime it can be avoided. Cap'n. Bob '61 :{) PilotRob@... 5747... MORE
sound like your carbon donut (throwout bearing) is gone. When they wear thin, it's not uncommon for them to crack and fall apart, resulting in a 'sudden' change in operational feel. Now not thick enough to press in the fingers of the clutch pressure plate, the grinding of gears while trying to shift is the clutch not fully disengaging. Paul Tegler ptegler@... www.teglerizer.com Paul Tegler 5717... MORE
The clutch on my '73 midget suddenly started making a scraping noise when pedal is pressed down and slows engine. I am unable to shift gears without grinding. Any suggestions. Thanks one and all. Chuck clessman@... 5715... MORE
Hello everyone. I recently bought a rebuilt bodyshell, where the transmission tunnel area is the only original metal. Everything else uses new, Heritage panels, and all appears well. The doors hang nicely with even gaps, and sitting there in the garage the shell appears to be good and straight. But how can I check this? There doesn't seem to be too much point in doing any work at all until I've confimed the shell to be true. All advice gratefully received. Martin Peake Tewkesbury, Glos, UK '71 Austin Sprite "Martin Peake" 5619... MORE
Just a quick note to warn anyone thinking about converting their steel wheel car to wire wheel by using bolt on "converters" ... DON'T DO IT!! Unless of course: a) You enjoy having to drain your axle just to change brake shoes. b) You have a stock pile of O rings and gaskets you need to use up. c) You like the sound of your rear tyres scraping against the inner wheel arch everytime you go over a dip in the road. Having said that, I have a brand new pair of rear axle wire wheel converters that are... MORE
Having been to Wisconsin on business, I can confirm that the aiport shops are full of cheese shaped head gear. They didn't tempt me. However, don't Briggs and Stratton engines come from WI too? Anyone put one in a Sprite yet? Chris Howes Wales '58 Frogeye "howes" 5568... MORE
I have just complete the body, trim and paint and the interior of my 1959 Bugeye. It has the orig. 948 cc and non-synco transmission. 104 K. It purrs like a kitten and is fun to drive...easy. I just returned from a club show in Chareston, SC and was not to impressed with the midget mk I and bugeye their. I should have taken mine ! When one goes to a "real" show, not concurs, how are the cars judged? Is there a point system ? Is it better to have an orig. non-carpeted interior? I would think well... MORE
