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I have the same knob and before the emblem wore off, I put a nut on the shift shaft and then screwed the knob down until it stopped. If it didn't line up, I unscrewed it until it lined up and then tightened up the nut against the shift knob to hold it in position. Hope this helps.. Rick Las Vegas, Nevada acostahr@... "Hugh Acosta" 5513... MORE
The standard MG Metro Turbo was alleged to produce 93bhp at the flywheel - although anyone who has driven one will question that - they feel no quicker that a ordinary 1300 MG Metro... You *can* use the Metro Turbo set up on a Midget - use the head and manifolds - You have to be careful on compression ratio with turbo engines (although the standard Metro Turbo has quite a high CR) so you may have to change the pistons too. I'm just not sure its really worth the bother - the Metro Turbo has very little boost... MORE
I did it on my first rebuild! The shaft coming from the cam can be installe d 180 out. It's pretty obvious when it happens. The fix is easy, just pay a ttention when installing the shaft, the offset should be correctly aligned. I don't remember the orientation and am too lazy to dig out the manual at the moment! Martyn meastwood1@... "Martyn Eastwood" 5503... MORE
I just looked in my 1963 MG manual and the Haynes manual and they both say to install the dissy gear with the larger part uppermost. That is with the #1 TDC on the power stroke. Doug 77 "Doug Pletcher" 5486... MORE
Had several Heralds in the 60/70s, 948 saloon, 1250 saloon, estate and convertable. Unique at the time as it had a chassis. Like most convertables of the time they leaked and rotted from the inside out. Looked the business though. Chassis rotted away, had several outriggers fall off but the sections are simple and easy to replace. Actually had a chassis break in half driving through South London. On accelerating it would come up and hit the floor whilst on breaking it would slam into the road. We opened the doors and wrapped the tow cable round and drove... MORE
VeeEight your Spridget I won an interesting magazine off of eBay (your "beware, you may get screwed in cyberspace" community) the other week. It is a May 1961 issue of Cars, The Automotive Magazine. In it is an article entitled 4 great engine swaps. The most interesting of the 4 was a 270 c.i. 'Vette engine with the automatic powerglide slipped into a Bugeye. It is a 5 page article with about 1 page of text and the rest is 22 photos of the car with close-ups and tech tips. FWIW, he removed the accelerator pedal and made the... MORE
Aaaahh memories! My first 2 cars were Heralds (though saloons) - learned a very great deal through having to work on them / fix them myself! From memory - mechanicals are all pretty straightforward / robust - apart from arms / bushes in the rear suspension??? Main thing -as Margaret has already mentioned - is chassis members - particularly rear outriggers - and sills. Marvellous access to all front end oily bits with that one-piece flip-up bonnet (check the catches) - a fantastic turning circle and lovely wooden dash. Don't know about current parts availability - is there no... MORE
Making a key to fit the diff oil drain plug... (I ground the end of a bit of steel bar to the right size, tried to bend the bar to a right angle using a 3 foot scaffold pole for leverage. The bar broke, the scaffold pole hit me in the chest and I broke two ribs!!) .... "Stuart Toller" 5355... MORE
Mike Why not swap round your planet gear carriers between your welded 4.55 and open 3.9 to try out the welded diff? Phillip Island must be one hell of a track - I find that the 3.7 is too tall even for Spa with my car... I run a 4.2 at Brands and Oulton and a 3.9 at Silverstone and Donington The 4.55 gets used for hillclimbs and Lydden Hill! James "James Bilsland" 5339... MORE
Mike Wasn't really asserting anything - just making a suggestion... I also wasn't really talking about the concours people - I've only seen about 3 or 4 concours Midgets at Silverstone but I know how much work must go into one of those cars - I was really thinking of those people who just go out and buy ordinary Midgets and drive them for fun and aren't really interested in working on them and/or modifying them in any way... I'd hate to be thought of as being unkind to anyone...! J p.s. Are you allowed to run a welded... MORE
Mike, Trying to get mine back to near original, the engines a 1098 instead of a 948 but have had the intention of getting it back to the 1960 she once was. You know, the engine smokes, the brakes dont brake, the carbs wont stay tuned the shifter wont stay in first gear and the wiring didnt work. ORGINALITY AINT IT GRAND. In truth, after 2 years 6 months and 1 day(but I'm not counting) she should be nearing completion and should be back on the road in the next 2 weeks Bob 60 AN5 TAMPA, FL MTGBRKR1@... 5335... MORE
Hi Everybody, My name's Martin Peake and I've owned my '71 Austin Sprite since 1982. However, its boy racer LCB exhaust fell apart in the snow of 1986, I went out and bought a Golf GTI and the Sprite's been in a series of garages ever since. A few weeks ago, I decided it was either sort the old thing out, or get rid of it. The body is fairly rotten, and I'm not convinced it's particularly straight anymore, so I've bought a partially-restored shell - all that's original is the transmission tunnel area. There's some welding to be... MORE
There are 1.5 forged rockers available in the UK for about UK=A3140-ish and they are complete with new pillars which re-align the rocker assembly. I could see that the Corolla rockers may upset the geometry of the rocker gear. Does the rocker pad line up with the valve stem? If so, is the pushrod now working at an angle? Dave dave_oneill138@... 5240... MORE
Jeff (and anybody else still following this thread) That'll be Toby (on Midgeteurope list) with the Talbot Sunbeam engine and semi spaceframe chassis - I think he a bit mad personally :-) Engine and 'box very light, but it's only 930-odd cc, so its gonna be a screamer to get 90bhp out possibly? Plus they are notorious for eating head gaskets - Wills rings required I think. At least he won't have too many problems with the axle. He has a web site with a few piccies on somewhere - ah... found it... http://www.kmvs.freeserve.co.uk/index.html Wonder if he decided to... MORE
Jeremy and all, I have considered the Jag lump in the Midget... wasn't there a Jag engined Frogeye way back? ended up in Oz? Must do a web search... K-series looks a good idea - I know a chap that has built a number of very high output K-series (up to 250 bhp from the 1.8 litre!). Trouble is they aint cheap, especially the RWD conversion parts (though at least available off the shelf). The Mazda I would like, and its been done before as well, but bit rare in UK. Although come in RWD format. For some (irrational?)... MORE
Hi People, Bit of an open question that I may have asked before, so forgive me if this is a bore - but then again it might stir up a few views as it's been a bit quiet... The work on getting my 1500 back in the road progresses apace, and with that in mind I am trying to get straight in my head what I shall do with my '2nd' Midget. It's a '71 rolling shell. Bought from a scrap yard cheap. Literally a panelled monocoque less boot(trunk)lid, but includes front suspension/steering/brakes, rear suspension (empty axle). The wings... MORE
Rick The first thing you should do is re-check the oil pressure with another gauge - they do go wrong and it would be a real bitch to pull the engine if nothing is actually amiss... The next stage is to replace the oil pump - while the engine is out you should check that that the main and big end bearings are OK - it would also be a good plan to check that the cam bearings are properly aligned and that the clearance between the cam and the bearings is OK. You might also check the rocker... MORE
I'm not sure which model. The modification is limited to rebushing so they fit on a standard competition A-series rocker shaft. They are popular with the customers of a particular engine builder (excellent reputation). They are also relatively inexpensive - I think they were ~A$380 which is say UKP120 or so - compared to the approx A$600-A$800 for roller rockers. I can take a photo if you like.. Mike "Mike & Kerry Gigante" 5189... MORE
Mike Agreed - the only valid comparison would be with another car on the same RR on the same day, however throwing out bhp figures gets the conversation going.... Engine spec as follows: - 1380cc A+ 1300 Ital block, 73.5mm Omega forged pistons, EN16T Midget crank, balanced Cooper 'S' rods, ARP rod bolts, modified Midget flywheel lightened and machined to accept 7.5" AP racing clutch, crank & flywheel dynamically balanced, Kent 310 'scatter pattern' camshaft, Kent vernier duplex timing gears, steel centre main strap, Vandervell (Clevite) 'VP' main and big end bearings, baffled sump, modified race cylinder head, 11:1... MORE
I have bought from them no problems yet to start engine quality of work on inspection is ok and every thing looks to be as expected I have bought inlet manifold and exhaust and distributor from them so if not up to spec will be their problem and they know it - same purposeas self - I have gone for new half shafts from Peter May they look much moresubstantial and I have heard good reports - due to complete rebuild this month and run in over winter ready for next season. Peter Mays work is first class know... MORE
James, Many thanks for the info - glad I asked the questions. Have already got the Frontline brochure and will definately look at their half shafts. Will have to start saving for the K series conversion though......... Will look at the links when i find a few spare minutes. What sort of power are you racing boys seeing? John Plymouth, UK 1973 Midget (will be fantastic when finished) Audi TT (fantastic) Citroen Picasso (complete rubbish) jc691907@... 5142... MORE
Vince I am sure I can get a set of 10" minilights machined up to take a knock-on centre if you're interested.... But seriously folks... As I understand it 1500's were heavier than 1275's and had to be raised to pass the US impact tests. This means that 1500 front springs are quite a bit taller than 1275 springs and the spring rate is greater and 1500 rear springs have an additional leaf. I am no 1500 expert but I also recall that they have a spacer in the front spring hanger which raises the car further (?). To... MORE
Welcome, new guy! John, I owned a "Vizard" tuned 1275 "over" .060 that gave over 90hp at the rear wheels. In normal daily driving, never had any problem with the axle's or rear ends. I am "smooth" however, no rough stuff. No "banging" clutch's or shifts. The word Oselli conjured up a less than satisfactory impression. I seem to remember Dan Stapleton in his book, referred to having an Oselli lead free head installed on his 1275 when going over to lead-free operation. Performance was well down over the "old" head he had replaced. He was working on the... MORE
James, I tried the 10" mini wheel option but I couldn't get them over the wire wheel hub !!! Vince 69 Midge "Vince Gillin" 5130... MORE
Thanx for your message, Dave- So it's just a beefed up support these rubber bumpers are attached to; interesting! Just for kicks, Dave, let me know if what you find behind the front rubber bumper will allow the installation of an oil cooler before the radiator. I am curious! Also, would like to know whether you prefer driving the 1275 or the 1500 (once you've got the 1275 up and running) and why you might prefer driving one over the other in traffic and/or on the highway. (1275's normally equipped with 3.9 and 1500's with 3.7; don't have any... MORE
