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Jeffrey If you try fitting the steel wheel half shafts to a wire wheel axle case you will find that they will not go completely home because the steel wheel shaft is about 3/8 to 1/2 inch too long. There is an easy solution, saw about 3/8 to 1/2 inch off the end of each shaft. A new hacksaw blade for each shaft will easily achieve this, or if you are good at freehand anglegrinding, use that with a cutting blade (not a grinding wheel). Using the narrower wire wheel casing allows the use of wider rear wheels should... MORE


Hi Chaps, Any of you clever people know how to get a halfshaft out of an axle casing/diff when it has snapped/jammed at about the spline area? I assume the diff is a more desirable part to keep than the axle casing, if one has to be sacrificed? (especially as it's a 3.7 diff) Warning - Stihl Saw on standby... (for those that don't know that's a VERY heavy duty 2-stroke powered 300mm-odd diameter disc cutter/grinder!) Cheers, Phil FilMidget@... 2795... MORE


All, After the last visit to the mechanic, he told me the front shocks in my 77 Midget need replacing. In looking at Moss and Vic Brit catalogs, I see conversion kits for the rear, but nothing beyond different springs for the front. Recent discussions pointed me to Frontline. But the website does not contain pricing on the front end kit. Anyone know the current price? Brake lights are out. Bulbs appear fine. Brake lights are usually optional in Massachusetts, but need to get the beast inspected soon, and the Powers That Be want the lights functional. How easy... MORE


Not sure about the front shock conversion, but the brake light switcheroo, ain't no big thing. Because of the location on the leading edge of the foot-pedal box under the hood, sometimes requires small fingers. Pretty simple fix otherwise. I replaced mine in about 30 minutes or so. "Stevens, David" 2697... MORE


Bent needle on the instrument. Cap.n Moores' Bentley had to come home on the back of the train after the 27500 rebuild on his 1929 engine showed a dropping pressure on the first post-rebuild run (down to Avignon). Got it home, stripped the bottom end and finally decided to test the gauge on the dashboard. Needle had reached the stop and caught on the stop 'pin' and bent the shaft. Every time it started it would reach the end of travel and bend the pin further until at running pressure it only showed 10psi. "rob thomas" 2617... MORE


Hello fellow members, My name is Ian Kuah. I am a motoring writer and contributor to magazines like Autocar and Auto Express. I am a also big fan of the Frogeye Sprite, and over the years, I have tested several incarnations of the Geoffrey Healey-approved Frogeye Car Company Sprite replica built by Keith Brading on the Isle of Wight. Here are my impressions. Anyone who wants to know more or is looking for one can contact me by e-mail at: acj12@... FROGEYE SUPERSPRITE There comes a time when even the small specialist car makers who are granted limited production... MORE


Thanks mike for your input. My cable has gone at the speedo head end were it is nearly a direct line in, so no stress should be there. the other end from the box is straight thro' the tunnel so again is straight. Many thanks to dave of Cambridge for organising todays run much enjoyed me and grandma.( Wife was unable to attend). Off to france germany and holland next week in the midget, so we are deciding what we can fit into one suitcase, shoes not included. will give you an update on return or via the net... MORE


James, Thanks for all this I will have to read it several times to get a good handle on what you say. However, I have discovered that the timing marks are the complete reverse to those shown in the Haynes Manual, so I assume the picture shown is not a representation of the engine but just an indicator of the timing marks. I have now set the timing to just 3 degrees BTDC and I have used the LEFTMOST timing mark on the engine block, the engine seems slightly rough on idle but there is no hint at all... MORE


Hi Chaps, 1330cc now installed in Arkley...........was it worth it?.....I'm not sure yet. Have only run it to 3000 rpm because of running in precautions................BUT!! The bloody thing pinks in every gear! and not just a little......Why? I have set the timing, according to the timing marks, at 0 degrees. Now then, this assumes that I have understood the Haynes Manual!! The sketch in the book shows in excess of three possible variations of the timing marks, and the marks on this particular engine appear to be as described in the book as "on later vehicles", therefore 0 TDC... MORE


Yes I remember being in a barn once. There she sat, two beautiful headlamps, strong chassis, graying top, but the rear end needed some work. She was a finicky at first but finally came around with some loving care. I decided to marry her anyway and that was 22 years ago and the rear end still needs work!!! Also what is this Yank stuff? I am from south Louisiana! We considered anything north of New Orleans a northerner/Yankee! I am what is called a Coonass! We lived right next to the bayous, swamps, and marshes. We would be out... MORE


It has been known with some water pumps that when they get hot the impeller comes loose in the shaft. Don't know if this applies to A series though, but if it does this could be the problem. Without the stat maybe the temperature stays just below that at which the impeller comes lose. Just a thought Alan Kempster "Alan Kempster" 2374... MORE


I guess that those of us involved in the UK modified Midget racing scene are the ones who find the book of most interest. I should declare an interest as it is my step-fathers car featured on the cover... (yellow modified Midget). John Baggott has effectively written an account of his own racing experience along with a homage to Steve Everitt who was sadly killed in a road car accident in Greece in 1987. Steve was an amazing guy and dominated UK Midget racing for nearly 10 years. We all knew he could have made it 'to the top'... MORE


g'day from down under, 1st -thank you to all who helped with the "sticky brake syndrome".All the parts on the entire brake system had been replaced Except the rubber hose from the back of the shell to the back axle..............guess what was stuffed?!! A bottle of cockmans white rum to Biff ....how the Pom's get a pipe to contract under internal pressure we shall leave to them and their god!! 2nd yes Blighty is a great place to visit hire a "classic sports" from one of the many suppliers of same and pray for decent weather!! But, really, driving... MORE


1. Jack the car up, so that the sticking hub is free from the ground. 2. Using a small club hammer, hit the hub several times at all points. 3. From time to time try to rock it, and eventually there will be a little movement. 4. Keep banging the hub with the club hammer until you can rotate it one full turn. 5. By now it should be possible to drive the car to free everything fully. I have a Honda N600 which has the same problem with the nearside rear if left standing for more than a... MORE


Hi Steve - and the rest, The Frontline kit is great. Handling and roadholding vastly improved. I went the uprated lever arm and -ve camber bushes route at first. Personally I couldn't seem to get a decent set of uprated (recon) dampers (or std rate recon come to that). Some were of appalling quality. Also the nylatron bushes didn't last very long in my 1500 (used for 40 mile commute). Overall a PITA. The frontline kit is only expensive when you hand over the cash - once its on the car it will seem like a bargain, and better... MORE


I am scooting right along now but ran into one major problem with the right front fender. It appears that the Midget was wrecked before and the entire front end of it was rebuilt with good old BONDO. I will try to remove it and reshape the front using the left one as a pattern. The little Midget is now sitting under the canopy very happy with the coat of primer on it. When the heat allows (over 120 degrees in the shade right now), I plan to squirt the silver paint on it. Al least with this heat... MORE


I have had trouble with the roller bearing release bearing kit in the past because the roller bearing tends to 'fall over' and the movement on the clutch arm isn't enough to compensate. This I fixed on my race car by using a nylatron insert inside the bearing carrier that is just bigger than the gearbox 1st motion shaft and which sits over the shaft to stop the bearing falling over. I can't say how successful this would be on a road car as I imagine that it would wear out fairly swiftly given day to day use... A... MORE


Oh and by the way, mine was the only Arkley at Silverstone, apart that is one that was supposed to be racing but suffered from a broken gear box........ouch! Why?......does nobody like the Arkley.......has no one else got an Arkley.............is there something inherently vulgar about the Arkley? There must have been many hundreds of Mg's of all shapes and sizes.....why no Arkleys? Very puzzling! Paul Arkley SS EOG 188 K "Paul T" 2143... MORE


Recently I saw a great tip / trick to do this: - Connect a hose from the bleeding nipple of a brake caliper to the bleeding nipple of the clutch slave cilinder - Open both bleeding nipples - Press the brake pedal to pump brake fluid into the clutch slave cilinder - Do this as often as is desired - Close the bleeding nipples - Remove the hose Because of the fact that the fluid is going up through the clutch-fluid line into the reservoir, it will be easier to get the air pockets/bubbles out! Be careful not to... MORE


Made progress on the rust problem, at least until my welder went crazy. At least I pretty much did the rear end of the Midget around the bottom of the boot. Next step is to tackle the sides along the bottom. Rick Las Vegas, Nevada acostahr@... "Acosta" 2091... MORE


I've run an A+ engined Midget with the 1500 Midget gearbox for 6 years. Uses an HIF 44 (HIF6) on an alloy MG Metro manifold. The MG Metro head has larger inlet valves (Cooper S size) and is compatible if you drill and tap a bypass hose stub for the water pump end. Photos available along with any other info. Picking up my new MGCGT today. Triple 45 DHLAs!!!! Had 3x48 webers on it but he bust one getting the spindle out to change the acc pump. Cost him just under 800 quid for the bits to do this.... MORE


Hi rob, in reply the carb isn't yet on a manifold, so any pointers ? The head cane from a 1990 Metro 1300, the valve gear looks a whole lot beefier so no doubt I'll use that to as I understand its compatible. Regards peter peter bentley 2026... MORE


In trying many years ago to get some old SU's to work, I ran into the same problem. In fact, when I got the MGA running, I had to get it smogged, and it passed. Only then did I discover it was running on only one carb! First, try loosening the jet centering nut at the base of the carburetor, then lift the piston to see if it freely moves up and down. Do this on both carbs, as one may be sticking open! Then once you are sure there is no binding, check the throttle shafts, and loosen... MORE


Has anyone had experience towing spridgets with tow bars. I have a '73 midget and want to tow it to a car meet. I bought a tow bar which attaches to the bumper supports (i.e., remove bumper first, then bolt on in lieu of bumper). All is well on straightaways during the tow, but after a turn the (midget) steering wheel tends to rock back and forth several times, then straightens and rolls true until the next turn. Any suggestions or helpful comments would be appreciated. Kingpins and other steering gear seems tight. Cheers, Chuck Charles A. Lessman, Ph.D... MORE


The reason for this is that late model housings did not have a filler, it was on the diff centre. "Beckers" 1931... MORE