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-Hey Bob coming from a LARGE family (Im the smallest at 5 11 220 I can tell you that I really shuudered when you told this guy to use the windsheild frame to help get in and out. Ive seen my family break some things getting around holding on to things that arent meant to be held on to. SHHH no one tell my wife Im sharing this, but she is as large as I (we are a sight together in the midget lol) But when she first started getting in and out that was her favorite place to... MORE
I am 6 foot 2 inches and about 200lb. I fit and can drive it, but: - I cannot use the indicator stalk of my Mk2 to signal a right-turn because my knee is immediately under it when my foot is on the 'loud' pedal or the brake pedal. - And my upper-leg presses against the window winder, sufficient to leave an impression when I get out. - I cannot get in and out with a hardtop in place. With the softtop I can just do it, but sometimes have to crawl out. I considered removing the window mechanism... MORE
There shouldn't be more than a slight rub. Depress and release the brake pedal a few times and see what you've got. You should be able to spin the hub with one finger and no more than slight rub. If it's more than that, there's something wrong. If the brakes were working okay before you changed the pads, you'll probably find rust and crud in the calipers is preventing the pistons from moving freely. They may have been okay before, but when you push the pistons back, you get into areas on the pistons which have been exposed to... MORE
Has anyone purchased replacement trunk floor from Moss or VB? I was wondering if it came with the flange at the rear end to weld on to the valance. Thanks in advance. Yuchol "yucholian" 20119... MORE
Hi everyone, I am in the process of fitting new pads and discs to my 1967 AH Sprite MK4, I have moved the caliper pistons back to allow for new pads and discs but it is still very tight and you can barely rotate the hub, I haven't refitted the road wheels yet so I don't know just how tight. Is this common? And if it is do they free up once on the road? Your comments please. Thanks Jon "Purely Classic" 20114... MORE
Jon (Purely Classic): The operation goes something like this: Remove wheels and cotter pins and pull old pads...inspect for more or less even wear (we'll assume it's even!:) Inspect rotors for general condition and run-out. (we'll assume no run-out and good condition. Using brake cleaner, spray off pucks and general area. Top off master cylinder with your favorite choice of fluid. Leave cap off. Get in car and slowly push pedal 'til to bring pucks out a little further than they are, but not so far you can't use your favorite tool so you can get "in there" and... MORE
Don This is probably not what you want to hear, but it's what I'd do in your situation. You run a real risk of damaging the Wishbone threaded bushes by attempting to drill out the fulcrum pin - which means you'll need those threaded Wishbone bushes re-bushed. I would simply remove the Wishbone and Kingpin and stubaxle as one unit - and send it off for an exchange unit. I wouldnt waste my time trying to get that fulcrum pin out. However, if you're determined to go it alone, and accept at least one or more components is going... MORE
Don Sound like yours is in the same condition mine was. I took an angle grinder, cut the fulcrum pin on both sides. Then I soaked the king pin in brake fluid for about two weeks with little success in getting the pin free up. I'd cut that to a couple of days. I finally took a small gear puller to get the remaining part of the pin out. The hole for the grease runs all the way through the pin so it keeps the puller centered on the pin with no trouble. Takes a few tries to find... MORE
On short 60 mph exit to exit run on the freeway and the 74 rwa went onto the blocks. Rodeos are for cowboys not midget drivers. Once I started dismantling the front suspension I felt lucky to be alive. The right side was in fairly good shape, in fact, painted on the suspension arm in bright yellow was "1995" I guess when it was last worked on . . . just the right side. The left side was a disaster waiting to happen. The shock arm was flopping about, its spine hole mounting it to the shock having worn... MORE
25+ years ago, I "blueprinted" a Bugeye and on my test run, got 44 MPG. Today, with a 1275 and 1 1/2" Carbs, 3.90 rear end, (still a Bugeye) I'm down to 35 MPG (at 700 miles since rebuild). But we have improved "safety?" since then. Bob, Portland, OR "Robert Webb" 19935... MORE
Jim C. ..... You are correct then, in both cases!! :) No, gasoline is not evil per se. The human beings involved in it's production and marketing (read: artificial pricing) are another story!! :) Of course we all need gas and are all in the same boat subject to the foregoing. Evian I can do without! Speaking as an LBC "gearhead"... we "need" it AND we "want" it. I completely perceive in all cases and understand the "value" of time spent in the LBC...could not agree more, especially in the case of "obligatory" driving....in that as long as you... MORE
Thanks jeremy So the pipe will run inside the tunnel, on the drivers side, next to the tunnel wall, I guess. Am I correct? "closrheidol" 19900... MORE
Through the tunnel, there should be a bracket that takes the fixed pipe to flexible hose junction at the back of the tunnel. "Jeremy Cogman" 19891... MORE
Hi everyone Can anyone advise regarding the route the rear brake pipe takes from the front four-way junction to the rear? Does it go under the car or through the transmission tunnel? Regards Chris Howes "howes" 19890... MORE
Remember this? Well, I took the midget out for its first ride this year (secretly hoping that the problem had somehow miraculously cure itself during winter storage - I really must stop taking those pills) So I checked out David Nixon's suggestion - it was the easiest to check - no luck there. Then I tightened the axle mount nuts as some of you suggested - skinned my knuckles applying enough torque to burst a blood vessel- Hey! Problem is solved - nice neutral drive! Thanks for the advice Olgierd MK3 "Dijkhof34" 19888... MORE
No1) could be lean mixture No2) can't think of anything else apart from the disc possibly being assembled to the hub with dirt or something in between the parts (it's more likely to be warped though) No3) yes it's stock on a 74 car - to restrain the engine/gearbox in the event of an accident David "David Jacobs" 19876... MORE
Don, if your steering wheel is an original one on the '74 RWA, it's fairly easy to improvise a puller which uses the spoke-to-hub bolts. In fact this is probably better than using a traditional two or three legged claw type as I found out when I used one and managed to bend the spokes. Luckily I didn't want that wheel, it only came off to replace it with the correct type for the year. Regards David "David Jacobs" 19869... MORE
the grease cap and measure. Note, too, that the wheel bearings are thrust bearings that are torqued. See the manual for specs. Since you'll have to replace the bearings, make sure to install them correctly. They're marked to show to place them. It surprised me at first, then I remembered that nothing about Sprigets surprises me. Rich "rohanley" 19861... MORE
Don No problems on the terminology, I understood ya! To be honest, it really does sound like you need to rebuild the front suspension. My front suspension sounds like its in better condition to yours and I'm rebuilding mine as a matter of course. On the bright side - if you do rebuild the front suspension - the handling will be back to 'as new' or pretty close. As for that castellated nut in the wheel hub - I'm there too, got the split pin out - now how to get this nut out! Anyone know what size this... MORE
Seems I am one large bag of questions lately but . . . no questions no learning. Question #1. When I let up on the gas as the engine decelerates it is miss-firing. .. popping . . . is that an indication that the timing is too advanced or retarded ? Fuel octane? Or other ? ? ? Question #2. A front brake disk has a lot of resistance against the pads during only part of the wheel rotation. Any causes other than disk warp I should check? Question #3. On the 74 there is a tubular bar about... MORE
If you are replacing the actual axle seals, there should be only 1 1/4X28 countersunk Phillips head screw located under the brake drum that needs to be pulled to free the axle. The wheel studs should not need to come off. There is both a gasket and an O-Ring in there as a seal for the axle shaft. I hope that helps. Matthew Pfeil 76 Midget "Matthew Pfeil" 19855... MORE
Hi... I just joined your group.... just bought a '77 midget and need to replace the rear axle seals. Can anyone tell me should I be able to just pull (with a little umph) the axles out of the rear housing after I have removed the 4 backing plate bolts ? The rear has lug bolts/nuts (not spinners). 4 nuts behind the backing plate inboard of the rear end. Does anything else hold the axles in ? "nstanko" 19847... MORE
Don Im a bit confused here as to exactly which part is worn, possibly due to your teminology being different to mine. First off, I assume the 'swivel pin' you refer to is the Kingpin, and are you saying the bottom of kingpin hole is worn? or the threaded bush part of the Wishbone (the A bracket)? Also the 'swivel pin and bushings are very good with no play in the swivel axel assembly' are you referring to the fact theres no play in the Kingpin/stub axle ? If I understand you correctly - you're saying the hole at... MORE
As Brad said, follow the clutch line back from the slave and eventually you will find the leak. The fluid is leaking somewhere and, nasty stuff that it is, it could be doing damage to something else. It strips paint much better than most of us are happy with. Incidentally, it is difficult to apply pressure to the clutch pedal when you have your head in the footwell, so have someone do it for you with a piece of wood or similar, but try it first so that there is no danger of it slipping off and doing you... MORE
Yep, it is the kingpin. My first time dealing with front end suspension so I used the terminology from the British factory manual as I am not that familiar with any of the terminology for the front suspension components yet. It's the hole at the bottom of the Kingpin that is worn. Looks like the wise thing to do now is wait until I can afford a major rebuild kit I keep finding more worn components. I have been unsuccessful breaking loose the nut at the end of the wheel bearing spindle inside the hub .... Of course the... MORE
