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Fluid was disappearing from the clutch master cylinder reservoir, resulting in no pedal pressure and an inability to shift. There was no obvious signs of leakage, just missing fluid. After topping up the reservoir, I could shift again. This happened twice, then topping up the reservoir failed to solve the problem. Suspecting leakage past the seal in the master cylinder, I rebuilt it; then bled the system. The result: no pedal pressure, and still no leaks. Next I replaced the slave cylinder, which showed signs of leakage past the cup, but not the boot. Bled system, but still no... MORE
Sounds to me like something is not in line. Have you compared the old springs to the new springs and measured the distance of the axle location in the old vs. the new? Try that. It seems to me like the rear end is closer or even possibly farther away from the transmission that it was previously. If the noise seems to come from the area where your shifter is My guess is that has something to do with the drive shaft how are the U joints on the drive shaft? You should have not been able to stress... MORE
Help! I am brand new to this group and find myself in a bit of a fix. I have a 1963 right hand drive Sprite in which I just replaced the front and rear springs. I took all precautions when lifting the car on stands such as supporting the axle with a jack etc. When I let her down and drove away, I heard this loud clatter coming from the transmission/bellhousing area. It is as if there is a large bit of metal or a bolt rattling around in there. It stops when I push in on the clutch... MORE
Sounds like you're going to need everything in the major rebuild kit, and maybe some more, like wheel bearings and possibly some work on the steering rack. Slack at the steering wheel could be just a matter of the clamp bolt where the steering shaft connects to the rack being loose. I've seen just that on two previous Spridgets. "Jeffrey Holmes " 19748... MORE
My guess would be that it is caused by worn joints on the prop shaft. Guy "Guy Weller" 19721... MORE
My AH Sprite 1967 MKIV has started making a vibration noise and it is worse when you coast the car out of gear, it isn't noticeable when you are driving in gear but you know it is there, I even tried turning the engine off to see if it still occurred and it did. Any ideas? JON "Purely Classic" 19720... MORE
Yep... Prop shaft, wheels, tires or associated. or even a loose exhaust system banging around while not under "pressure" from a running engine, but I'd guess the former rather than the latter, for sure. If it was a loose exhaust, it's vibration would probably be different under "pressure" of running, most likely vibrating at higher frequency against part of the body I would think. Might be the rear end but this vibration would be accompanied by some sort of growl or gear noise I would assume. Cap'n. Bob (Ret'd) '60 Frog PilotRob@... 19722... MORE
I think the only 5 speed for the 1500 is a Ford Sierra box. I don't believe they are available in the US and even then they require mods to the tunnel cross member and tunnel width. Brent "Brent Wolf" 19709... MORE
Good morning Bob, Chrome plating is porous, yes it lets water through to the metal below. If the base metal was not properly prepared then the rust will come through. Also If the chrome plate is very thin then the surface rust on the steel shows up very soon. If its thicker then the surface rust can spread under the chrome and you don't notice it so much so soon. Depends on where they got the bits from. I remember talking to a guy about when I was doing up the MGB GT the original bumpers weighed a hell... MORE
Nigel... Let me tell you something, I wish to hell it was possible to run a Judson on today's unleaded premiums. I worked my tail off for 2 years to get this to work as did a buddy of mine who lives in Holland. Have been a member of the Judson List for more than a few years now. Based upon the promise of Delrin vanes from the USA Judson rebuilder, I even had my new Rivergate engine "tailored" for this blower. That's how much I was into this application. I figured with self- lubricating vanes, 2 stroke synthetic... MORE
No sweat. By the time you also rebuild the trans, diff, suspension, electrics and brakes, that engine rebuild will be only a small part of the cost :-) "Jeffrey Holmes " 19635... MORE
Are you going to restore it stock (concourse), or personal enjoyment? Are you doing a "frame off" (every nut & bolt removed, cleaned or replaced) restoration, or running/simi-running car and you are going through it a little at a time? If you are going concourse, you should find out if it is the original engine. (BMHT can give you the serial numbers) If you are, and it is original, you might want to have it rebuilt. If not, the 1275 does make a very nice upgrade for a Bugeye. Disc brakes, 5 speed, 3.90 rear end, are also nice.... MORE
Don: The only special tools I have used are a long slim steel punch and a hammer. The outer bearing inner race comes out fairly easily. Turn the assembly over and remove the grease seal with a long screwdriver. You can then drive out the outer race of the outer bearing with the punch and hammer. The spacer will then fall out too. Turn the assembly back over and drive out the outer race of the inner bearing with the punch and hammer. The hub has two small cutouts behind each outer race, they may be hard to find... MORE
Can anyone tell me if the gear ratio at the rear end in a 75 - 1500 midget is different than a 74 - 1275 also is the housing the same. Thanks Don Too many mgs "Don " 19487... MORE
The baulk ring has a tapered/grooved surface that fits over the gear cone. Normally a new or good condition baulk ring will leave a gap between the end of the ring that fist over the cone and the flush surface where the synchronizer teeth begin. The gap between the baulk ring and the synchro teeth is where you check with a feeler gauge. Less than .015 is a problem. If you have a Bentley manual, there is an illustration in the transmission section of the later gear assembly that will help you visualize this. Gerard "gerardchateau " 19477... MORE
I took the 65 Sprite out for a drive today. With it being 72* and sunny, the wife followed in the 68, you should have seen the looks!! Anyway, I noticed, when I shifted the car at around 3,000 rpm, it shifted smooth. Of course I am a bit puzzled as to why I have to push the shifter a bit to the left while going into 3rd and 4th. Not alot, but is doesn't slide in easy like it does on the other two cars. Anyway, if I rev the engine up to 4,000 or 4,500, it does... MORE
It's a long way from Santa Clara to Berkeley on city streets, 53 miles of city driving, but the 74 rwa is tucked in the drive way next to the 63. Engine ran great, temp fine, oil pressure fine, trans except for normal noisy first performed great. Front end . . . a bit loose somewhere, needs looking into. Discovered a PO had a oil cooler and torsion bar. installed. Over all a great car. Nice spring day here so top down was great. First act when I got home was to remove the tacky wheel edge plastic trim.... MORE
Yep, Nigel, I did set it up on a chassis dyno in it's application on my PO'd '74 Vizardized RWA Midget which got 90hp at the rear wheels. God, I loved driving that car.....lowered, with flares for the Yoko 008R 60 Series 185's. Had a 2" exhaust from the large bore LCB through a "reversed" glass pack. Great sound and went like hell! Back then I was doing a lot of highway driving commuting to my domicile in LaGuardia from Stamford (60 mile round trip) at least once, and sometimes twice a week. With the stock ribcase and 3.7... MORE
Hi all, found this on the BBB list, someone out there in Yankee land might be interested. I am, but too far away !! It looks like this guy knows what he is doing, he's certainly got all the right parts IMHO regards alan Posted 17 February 2003 at 03:55:48 UK time Brust, Sacramento CA, roethler@... I am replacing the a-series MG with an A-series toyota (4age). This summer will be the big swapout and I'm wondering if anyone is in need of a complete 1275 driveline: 1275 +.030 8.8 pistons CAHT11 LCB Header ported head alloy valve cover... MORE
though if you've got a V8 MGB with a Rover 5 speed, they reckon disconnecting is a must as the 'box has it's own oil pump (driven off the input shaft?) and pressure fed lubrication. Regards David "David Jacobs" 19381... MORE
Hi all, Was wondering if anyone in the UK has any experience of fibreglass front ends? I have been toying with the idea but I'm unsure as to whether to take the plunge or not..... A friend of mine bought a fibreglass front end for a Spitfire from Moss many years ago and never used it was fairly terrible, I'm hoping things might have moved on.... all answers gratfully recieved..... Neil "Neil Rouse" 19372... MORE
Mark Howard... Well you may very well be correct, sir but in any event, I think the improved manifolding that comes with the 1.75 set-up is really the main "improver" and not necessarily the bigger single carb. And, of course, Nigel is absolutely correct in terms of "lightening", no doubt about it. The improvement in going to alum. wheels and or a lighter flywheel (lower gears) on acceleration proves his point... hell...just going to 30psi in the tires makes a hell of a difference in "zip"!! (or "zap"... whatever!:) But now, we are muddying the waters!! FOCUS guys, FOCUS....."breathing"... MORE
No, it is based totally on air flow area through the carb throat(s) to the engine (all four cylinders, or two ports if you prefer). One 1 3/4 has a 2.41 cu in. flow area and each 1 1/4 has 1.227 cu. in. flow area for a total of about 2.45. So one 1 3/4 appears to flow slightly (very slightly) less than two 1 1/4's overall. Using only a single 1 1/2 (which I think started all this) would only allow a flow area of 1.77 which I think would really reduce performance from the two stock 1... MORE
Hmmm... Consider driveshaft disconnect post reinstated....otherwise gearbox will run without lubrication unless you can tow it "backwards" with rear wheels off ground. And....warm congrats on purchase of '74 RWA Midget....had one of these.... nothing wrong with wind-up windows and a top attached to the car that quickly "erects" on a daily driver....quick erections are good in any case of course. Do not stow top when wet...this will avoid "shrinkage" which is a bad thing, also in any case. :) Cap'n. Bob (Ret'd) '60 Frog PilotRob@... 19341... MORE
Yo, Don.... Disregard my "driveshaft" post for a sec.- hold that thought! How far did you say you had to tow it? Cap'n. Bob (Ret'd) '60 Frog PilotRob@... 19339... MORE
