MAIN

Engine (external)

 1  |  2  |  3  |  4  |  5  |  6  |  7  |  8  |  9  |  10  |  11  |  12  |  13  |  14  |  15  |  16  |  17  |  18  |  19  |  20  |  21  |  22  |  23  |  24  |  25  |  26  |  27  |  28  |  29  |  30  |  31  |  32  |  33  |  34  |  35  |  36  |  37  |  38  |  39  |  40  |  41  |  42  |  43  |  44  |  45  |  46  |  47  |  48  |  49  |  50  |  51  |  52  |  53  |  54  |  55  |  56  |  57  |  58  |  59  |  60  |  61  |  62  |  63  |  64  |  65  |  66  |  67  |  68  |  69  |  70  |  71  |  72  |  73  |  74  |  75  |  76  |  77  |  78  |  79  |  80  |  81  |  82  |  83  |  84  |  85  |  86  |  87  |  88  |  89  |  90  |  91  |  92  |  93  |  94  |  95  |  96  |  97  |  98  |  99  |  100  |  101  |  102  |  103  |  104  |  105  |  106  |  107  |  108  |  109  |  110  |  111 

Previous Page | Next Page

So............just how long should a Clutch Release Bearing last? I have just removed the engine as a first step in replacing it with a 1330cc, and to my horror I find that the release bearing is just a thin ring of jaggged steel...................ouch! Paul Arkley SS 1972 MkIII "Paul T" 2295... MORE

peter best quoted =A3500 for my son after one year's full licence holding. (That was on a 1275 Midget) GordonBParker@... 2302... MORE

Looked into shipping a 20 foot container of Mini engine/box units. Could get 36 in a container. Met Tom Stone ( tom@... ) and he has set up a shipping business for this type of thing. Basically a Ro-ro shipping of a car might cost 600UK for the actual shipping but the extras start to mount up. Pre 74 cars are exempt from a whole load of stuff but post 74 cars are a problem. The Mafia seem to want a sizeable chunk to offload your car at the US end. La Cosa Nostril seems to run the US... MORE

Seems as though I'll never know, then as I can find no trace of any other number on the engine!! Just a riveted metal tag with the mysterious number 1275!! Thanks anyway! Paul "Paul T" 2264... MORE

12G940 is the part number for the ordinary 1275cc head casting. There were versions of this casting produced for the Cooper 'S' but the classic Mk1 'S' had the AEG 163 casting. The differences on the 'S' and 1300GT heads (and MG Metro 1300) is just down to factory machining (bigger valves etc...) Regards James "James Bilsland" 2262... MORE

That is the casting type of the head, not the engine number... Mike "Mike & Kerry Gigante" 2253... MORE

Hi chaps, I am just about to start to replace my engine..............Cough, cough!! Before I commence I have done the simple but pleasing things like clean and degrease the engine and spray paint it a rather pleasing light Hammer finished green........very smart, and adjusted the tappets etc. Whilst doing this I noticed the engine number: 12G940, and thought that it might be fun to know where this engine has originated from............. Any ideas? Paul Arkley SS 1972 MkIII "Paul T" 2226... MORE

Hello everyone Got a question The Midget has been for the last 2 or 3 weeks having a catch in 3rd and 4th. But to night all of a sudden it took off like a rocket. There is no more catch and it does ideal a little higher then were it was before ( 1000) Any ideas? Electronic ignition Just tuned up 4 months ago Thanks Jason Gross 1971 Midget 1275cc "Jason Gross" 2213... MORE

Hey Rick I think I was one of those who were lost. Jgross@... Thanks, Good luck and have fun Jason Gross 1971 Midget 1275cc GAN 5 UB 94654 G "Jason Gross" 2208... MORE

Hi Dave, I wait with bated breath!! Cheers Paul "Paul T" 2200... MORE

Paul 1340 is commonly quoted by racers (and usually wrong unless the engine is a short stroke) +.020 = 1293 +.030 = 1301 +.040 = 1310 +.060 = 1330 73.5mm = 1380 74.0mm = 1400 Do the maths if you don't believe me (or check out the table in Vizard) Regards James "James Bilsland" 2179... MORE

Success! Made up pressurised system with airline set at 30psi & bung in m/cyl. Blew in fluid.Jacked up front of car to get air in slave cyl.to bleed vent. Finally pushed slave cyl. piston back a couple of times to help air to vent. Steve. 72 midget "Steve Cowling" 2174... MORE

Hi James, Thanks, I too thought it was actually 1330 but I was told at Silverstone it was a 1340, still I believe you........so from now on........a 1330 it is. Cheers Paul. "Paul T" 2171... MORE

Well I've got an electric temp guage in my 1275 (1320 actually as its had a +60 thou rebore) and normal 65 mph driving, stays steady at 80 degrees - even driving fairly fast back from Silverstone on Sunday and boy was THAT hot, it only rose ever so slightly. At idle it rises to 80, and after a length of time starts to climb and can reach 100 especially in traffic jams. I shouldn't worry unless it starts to boil. GordonBParker@... 2181... MORE

What about mine. Bog standard 1275 engine 58k miles from new. I thought the temp gauge was US until I replaced the thermostat. I replaced it with an 82 deg one as I could not get an 88 deg one as in the book. Now it runs with the gauge half way between C and N what ever I do. Terry "Terry Isherwood" 2188... MORE

Funnily enough while you would expect a modified engine to run hotter than a standard one (more power = more energy = more heat) my experience is the opposite. I think that a well modified head must allow the engine to run more efficiently and at a slightly cooler temp... I would have thought about 80 - 85 degrees (celsius) about right (based on what your thermostat is likely to be). Anything up to 100 is OK in small amounts (i.e. traffic jam/hot day). Running over 100 for long periods of time is getting into shark infested waters... James... MORE

Smelling Lotus (Loti?) - been there - usually they smell of burnt engine oil... James "James Bilsland" 2156... MORE

Any hints on installing a 1340cc engine in my Arkley? Any thing I should look out for or be aware of? Regards Paul "Paul T" 2152... MORE

Here's another little poser for all you experts on the list. What is to be considered an acceptable normal working temperature for a standard 1275 'A' series engine: a) under normal road conditions b) under sustained fast motorway conditions, say 65 MPH (FAST, I hear you shout....well you know what I mean) c) under normal tickover At what temperature should one start to get concerned. And finally, I am just about to replace my 1275 with a fast road 1330, will it.........run at the same temp...be cooler......or run hotter, and will the normal radiator be sufficient? Well I think... MORE

Marcus Edwards 1275 midget 1971 Cheltenham UK Marcus Edwards 2140... MORE

Peter It is probably not a good idea to drill and tap your block for 11 studs unless it is disassembled (swarf and engines really don't mix...). Use a head gasket for marking purposes for the extra studs. You can use an 'S' head on a midget engine without the extra studs. As I said to you on Saturday 11 studs are a good idea on a racing engine because of the higher compression ratio. This is not likely to be an issue on a standard spec CR engine. You should however try and work out what the CR... MORE

Ok, You have to use the spacer. That is a must. The good news it that your studs are not machined into the block, they are just a bit seized. Use some penetrating oil (Liquid Wrench) and two nuts per stud. Tighten the nuts into each other and then, turning only the lower nut the stud should come out. Now for longer studs. Go to your local hardware store and find a piece of "all thread" that matched the thread size of the portion which came out of the block (the coarse side) and two nuts and lock washers.... MORE

Although far too much has been said on this subject, and I am not worthy to comment [No Spridget running or on the road] But, from my Morris Minor days I recall using lighter oil in the Dashpot. Also, taking Mike North's advice in Mascot a while ago regarding reading Mini magazines to keep up with A Series tuning - and in an article, they said at the end "Don't forget to fill up the SU dashpot with light oil (Penrite of some sort/SU dashpot oil/3in1 etc) and NOT to use engine oil. Someone the other week was asking... MORE

I have a '75 Midget that needs a new fuel pump. I have the old pump off and I'm struggling to put the new one on. The replacement pump has a curved arm - the old one was straight. The replacement pump also came with a 5/8" spacer. Here's the dilemma - I can't manage to get the pump on without the spacer - but with the spacer the bolts (which I assume machined into the block of the engine) are too short to reach through the new pump. Any suggestions? The catalog stated that the spacer was only... MORE

Marcus, The way I understand it is that viscosity of the oil affects the rate of damping within the carb and varies the 'smooth' rate of acceleration/decelleration change. This can reflect as a rich over- run, however, at a steady throttle opening the oil viscosity should have no effect at all. If your car always seems to run rich it is more than likely the carb (s) requires adjusting (favourite) or the needle/seat has begun to wear beyond adjustment. If the carbs are worn the only answer is either a refurbishment kit or change the carbs. If they have... MORE