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Rob... A PCV (positive crankcase ventilation) valve was used on the '67 engine and on some '68's as well which incorporated other "clean up" systems. This establishes a vacuum or crankcase vapor "flow" system wherein air is taken into the crankcase via a "filtered" oil cap ("graduated orifice") and crankcase vapors are drawn into the combustion chamber via the PCV valve (another "graduated orifice") mounted on the intake manifold which is fed from a tube/hose attached to the "flame arrester" on the timing case cover on the front of the engine. Later modification of the system fed crankcase vapors... MORE
Virginia, You can tighten and replace any spoke merely be letting the air out of the tire and having it off the car. If you are replacing spokes the nipple stays in the rim held in place by the tube and liner. You just slide in a new spoke and screw the nipple down, easy. Jon 3 wire wheel Spridgets "Jon Paschke" 21342... MORE
Jeremy... "Proper" erection of the top solved this problem in my case. Yep...I've got the seam on my canvas BE top. I have found that inserting the rod/cloth firmly in the groove after lowering the top frame bar "springs" then attaching the top at the back, before "popping" the frame "springs" is the way to go to prevent this. At least this works in my case. The rod/cloth must be FIRMLY inserted all the way. Try moving this sideways while pushing firmly "in"....it's gotta go in ALL THE WAY!! No "I think that's OK"!! :) Cap'n. Bob '60 :{)... MORE
Why not, Jason... Have someone (la spousa!) keeping an eye of things after you set it up, if you are doing the start from inside the vehicle. Have FIREX out and handly!! :) But before you begin, how long has it been before this engine was last cranked over? Was it running ok before it was "stored" or "stored" because it was not running? Old oil (this stuff can gel or partially so...won't lubricate), etc.? Cap'n. Bob '60 :{) PilotRob@... 21288... MORE
Nigel, and Jason. I agreee with Nigel to a certain degree.....I would use piece of rubber fuel line long enough to get the tank about 4 - 5 feet away from the engine compartment for that very reason. Also it is important to make sure that the level of the gas in the tank is NOT HIGHER than the fuel pump intake. This will eliminate the tendency for the fuel to SIPHON out of the tank if you should develop a leak anywhere, thus reducing the risk of a SPILL and possible fire hazard David A. Stevens Jr. Utilities... MORE
you're right, is some sort of solid state system. at least the where the points used to be. I didn't touch any of that, so it should be just where it was set. I did remove the air pump, and blocked the line coming from that going into the exhaust. I also removeved the vacuum line/fuel blocker/line into the EGR valve, and just blocked it off at the carb. It's a standard ZS, I haven't touched anything except the vacuum. now for the fuel filter story. I installed a clear filter before the fuel pump, but that seemed to... MORE
Sure... Same thing I did with mine. Grind out all the rust, etch the metal and fabricate with epoxy fibreglass soaked cloth. One you've formatted to the best of general shape, use the Featherlite filler and go from there as you would any other body repair. Or....if it's bad enough, get a fibreglass engine compartment hood to replace. Cap'n. Bob '60 :{) PilotRob@... 21258... MORE
What year? Check your pedal adjustment and, if applicable, slave cylinder adjustment and ensure that the clutch is not under slight pressure all the time. I can't see that a leaking m/c would cause this problem but you need to fix that leak before it turns into a failure halfway across one of those steep overpasses. Gosh, After reading about Kelly's botched body repair job, my problem seems kind of trivial but, here goes. My 63 Sprite is sporting a brand new clutch, suspension, throw-out bearing and fork and all brand new associated hardware. Plus, new seal on diff.,... MORE
G'day guys We must have weaker gravity Down Under. Either that, or we use better rear oil seals on gearboxes. If the nose on the drive shaft isn't badly worn, and the gearbox rear seal is in good condition, it will not leak. I can't count how many cars we have had with their nose in the air for weeks at a time, and no oil leaks. My race car was like this for 5 weeks recently while the engine was getting rebuilt - no oil leaks. Mind you, not the same situation if it's bum up. With no... MORE
Gosh, After reading about Kelly's botched body repair job, my problem seems kind of trivial but, here goes. My 63 Sprite is sporting a brand new clutch, suspension, throw-out bearing and fork and all brand new associated hardware. Plus, new seal on diff., new u-joints etc. BUT, it feels like I'm getting clutch slippage and a little bit of chatter at low speeds in 1st & 2nd gear. It's really noticeable on steep overpasses etc. Once I get up to speed it disappers for the most part, say in 4th gear at speed. I know my master cylinder is... MORE
G'day all Well colour me boring. I just removed the engine from my RWA Sprite to fix the clutch. The front of the car was raised about 3" with timber blocks under the wheels, so that I could get the engine crane in. Three days later, there is a pool of oil emerging from under the car, in the vicinity of the rear of the transmission tunnel. "Oh" says I, "must have a leaky rear gearbox seal." So out comes the gearbox. Might as well rebuild it while it's out, so in go some new synchros, new bearings and... MORE
Gearbox rear seal won't keep the oil in when the 'box is tilted. Standard procedure is to drain the oil before pulling the engine/box. J. jeremy.cogman@... 21221... MORE
Well, Colin... You got fooled by that rear gearbox oil seal but that's OK. Nothing wrong with overhauling the Xmission while you got the engine out anyway as this is the most economically feasible way to go anyway....... new engine, clutch and gearbox on a single engine pull....way to go!! Should be at least 80k+ before you need to worry about pulling the engine again! :) Cap'n. Bob '60 :{) PilotRob@... 21222... MORE
while doing a bit of internet digging to find out more on this suspension, I cam across this little gem..... http://www.trikes.freeserve.co.uk/irom/model2.jpg Something to do on those long dark winter nights? David "David Jacobs" 21209... MORE
Hi Can I use the distributor from a 948 engine on a 1275 engine? If not, does anyone in the UK have one for a 1275 spare (reasonable fee)? Regards Chris '58 Frogeye "howes" 21192... MORE
ROTFLMAO, Bradster!! :):) I figured that would get an appropriate response, though I thought it would be a lot stronger!! Shrinkage, indeed!! I bet he forgot to disconnect the vacuum advance line, though we haven't heard back on this, yet. Wonder how long the engine would last under load at 40 degrees of advance considering 8.8-1 CR and 93PON unleaded premium? I figure maybe 10k miles of "quick" response before you'd see excessive blowby through pinholes in pistons. Whaddya' think, snakeperson? :) Cap'n. Bob '60 :{) PilotRob@... 21203... MORE
And well you should ask, Chris. Yes! Go to www.teglerizer.com and click on distributor curves for comparison of advance curve as it applied to the original 948 dizzy as compared to the serial number you are currently using. Once again, compliments to teglerizer for making this info available to all! :) Cap'n. Bob '60 :{) PilotRob@... 21200... MORE
"Did the original post appear on list?" Apparently not for reasons unknown to your's truly, which is exactly what my response was when Colin originally contacted me off list with this and I referred it to Gerard, explaining to Colin that while I had all the pictures of the various "A" series rods as used in Spridgets, I had no "numbers" to go with the pictures! Cap'n. Bob '60 :{) PilotRob@... 21199... MORE
60 Bugeye with a 69 1275, 1 1/2" SU, 28 degrees at 4000, Vacuum Dist 13 degrees BTDC @ 1000 rpm, Mechanical dist 22 degrees BTDC @ 1200 rpm. Bite the bullet and buy a unisync. You only use it once a year but it beats a hose hands down. Bob, Troutdale, OR "Robert Webb" 21186... MORE
"Whyzat"? Cause your checking the advance with the vacuum advance hooked up and racing the engine under no load for testing purposes? Cap'n. Bob '60 :{) PilotRob@... 21185... MORE
Geeze.... I sent Colin's post on con rods over to Gerard last week....figured if anyone would know, he would. Oh, well! :)_ Cap'n. Bob '60 :{) PilotRob@... 21182... MORE
"You lost me here, Bob" LOL, Jens.... Actually, having the guts to lose one's "self" is paramount to internal development and growth in terms of finding another, hopefully better "self". If I lost you here, then you are not "ready for it". No big deal 'cause maybe you were brought up differently than I and already know what I had to find out for myself. Lets just say that I am no longer partial to blondes, and that while I am certainly not lacking in selectivity when it comes to the physical characteristics of the fair sex, I no... MORE
Jim No torque setting? Thats probably because you're not meant to split them! I'm not exactly sure what the crush washer does - but it sits between the two halves of the caliper - like a sealing gasket I would imagine. Now, you can't buy this part - the crush washer - from any parts supplier - I wonder why ; ) Nigel 71 Midget being restored "amukdigiphoto" 21144... MORE
Hi folks: I have pulled the 1500 engine out mf my 1979 Midget and am trying to figure out the best way to attach it to my 1 ton universal-type engine stand. The engine has the flywheel and block plate attached. Can I use the block plate holes to support the engine (the plate seems as if it would bend). What have you all done? An y pictures? Responses offline as well as on would be appreciated. Best regards, Rio 1979 Midget GAN6 "Rio Rafael" 21141... MORE
No, it's bigger so you'd need to modify the engine bay. Why bother is the other answer as it's much heavier and not as tuneable. If you want more power than a tuned A will give you then there are other well tried options such Toyota twink, Mazda Rotary and Rover K. All these have the added advantage of coming with 5 speed boxes. Does anyone know if it is possible to drop an engine from an MGBGT into a midget without modifying the engine bay? jeremy.cogman@... 21110... MORE
