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What about the datsun A series engines?Is this a worthwhile swap? "stanley hill" 21132... MORE
Does anyone know if it is possible to drop an engine from an MGBGT into a midget without modifying the engine bay? please email me stuart8862@... or stuart.norman@... Thanks "stuart" 21109... MORE
Ginger Ouch! And yes it does sound about right, 2-300 bucks for parts sounds about right too. It's basically a front full brake rebuild for both sides, inc wheel bearings. I would question why both sides need doing - whats wrong with the other side? Could you get away with less work/parts on the other side? The labour is in dismantling both sides, rebuilding both brake calipers inc new pistons and seals (this is a specialist job, and can't be done at home, may be cheaper to just buy an already re-conditioned pair) re-fitting wheel bearings, calipers, hoses, brake... MORE
Hi Neil Glad you finally saw the light ; ) I'm not really sure what tips you're looking for, the 1275 isn't substantially different from the 1500, apart from the obvious differences. I think you're wise going for a restored one, considering the amount of time and effort, not to mention financial costs of restoring one. I guess, what you need to look out for, depends a lot on the type of restored 1275 you're looking for, and what kind of money you want to spend. Top of the list in my mind would have to be a professionally... MORE
"I still wonder what happened to that head" I once had a 45DCOE I shipped to a fellow out on the west coast to be used with a 1380 being built for him in future. The damn thing ended up in Guam...so help me God! Took about forever to get it back after it was finally traced. Oddly enough, there was a silver lining in this cloud...for me...not the guy who expected the carb.! I had intended to use a Judson blower on my new engine and in fact, the build was "tailored" for the expected load and dynamic... MORE
How about this, OK so it's a 1972 Stag but it's a warning to us all. Friend driving along, cloud of smoke out of rear, it stops so he continues on, then engine seems to loose power. Cause is n/s rear brake jammed on. Drum red hot, cracks in half on cooling, lead balance weights on wheel melted. On dismantling finds no rubber seals in brake cylinder, no brake fluid in this part of the system although other brakes working ( the smoke was the fluid running out on to the hot drum), return springs lost all temper. Boy... MORE
Jason, Pick up a couple of chain "load binders" the snap down type are less expensive than the ratchet type. I have used a cable come-a-long before to tighten down the frame of the car to the trailer....but the load binders are designed for that purpose. David A. Stevens Jr. Utilities Engineer II NYS Office Of General Services Sheridan Avenue Steam Plant 79 Sheridan Avenue Albany, NY 12210 "Stevens, David" 21060... MORE
First, I would practice backing up a bit before you put the car on the trailer. Second, who's trailer is it, did you borrow it from a friend, or perhaps rent it. Third, how far do you have to tow the trailer with the car on it. Fourth, considering your answers to the last 2 questions, what shape are the trailer wheel bearings in. Otherwise, if you are towing the trailer with a small vehicle, please remember when braking, allow DOUBLE the distance between you and the vehicle in front of you. Good luck. David A. Stevens Jr. Utilities... MORE
ok..just talked to him...some of this cost includes the fuel pump and towing charge. He's repacking the wheel bearings, rebuilding the calipers, replacing hoses and boots, replacing the pistons etc. About $289 in parts then labor. Take the fuel pump and towing cost out and it's around 9 something. Gawd. "Virginia" 21000... MORE
Ok...here's what my mechanic is telling me is wrong with the front end. The left caliper isn't releasing fully which is causing the pull. He says it needs to be replaced as well as the rotors, hoses, repack wheel bearings, brake shoes, replace the pistons and says that it should be done for both sides. He's tellihng me it will run about $1100. Does this sound right? "Virginia" 20994... MORE
We have got reading around 240 psi when using 12.5 to 1 compression. Compression readouts also depend on cam shaft used as long duration lower the readings..... "Beckers" 20985... MORE
"Compression readings also depend on on camshaft used as longer duration lowers the readings" Right on, Beckers!! Did we not have such a discussion last night, Bob Gardner, thus covering all our bases on this?? I believe we did! :) But without all the "numbers", "relative" condition cannot be determined to the e-mail observer! Your ears should have been burning last night, Trevorino!! Any luck thus far? Cap'n. Bob '60 :{) PilotRob@... 20987... MORE
HELP! My midget blew a head gasket and ran hot. I pulled it down cleaned every thing up checked head with straight edge,replaced head gasket and thermostat and rad cap.But still runs hot.Removed thermostat,still runs hot.removed cap on thermostat housing and water blows out when running so i assume water pump is working.What the heck is going on???Oh its a 1500 engine. "stanley hill" 20962... MORE
Ahhh... You are running a very high compression motor, Trevor....(I was wondering?!:) compression ratio means everything in the world!! I'm interested again!! :) What sort of octane are you running for this sort of compression, BTW and where is the total ignition advance? I am asking because you're up in 100 octane territory in terms of compression ratio and heat becomes a factor here. What heat range spark plug as well? So, what were exactly the "dry", and "wet" readings, and leak down per centage losses across the board, from 1-4? I am about to advise an ignition analyzer... MORE
Stanley.... Didn't blow a head gasket in my case, but maybe time for a radiator? I've had this happen with a 1275. Sediment can build up over time. New radiator weighed a lot less than the old one did and it wasn't in the build or quality of the new radiator, either! :) Anyway, new radiator resolved the problem in my case, Stanley. Cap'n. Bob '60 :{) PilotRob@... 20963... MORE
Wow... I'm impressed Jeremy, really. Best I could ever get was 200 on an 11.0-1 1340, "dry". Cap'n. Bob '60 :{) PilotRob@... 20960... MORE
Brad... Have no idea? Manufacturer's name has gotta be there somewhere I would think. Either trunk, engine compartment, glove- box? What is it underneath...basically VW? Cap'n. Bob '60 :{) PilotRob@... 20947... MORE
The mystery engine in the ebay ad, 1974 car at 350 dollars solved, courtesy of another mg group Posted 05 April 2003 at 03:27:17 UK time JE was correct. It is a 2TC Corolla engine. I had a 76 SR5 Corolla with that engine. It's a "Hemi" head 1600cc. Those spark plug boots are actually about 6 inches long. Damn near bullet proof motor! Too bad this installation appears somewhat botched. JR "alan.east-jones" 20918... MORE
My 76 midget started acting funny when the temp gauge started climbing up and up only to fall quicly back to norm a few times befor shooting up to the moon and staying there.thinking it may be the thermostat,i removed it.but within 1 mile of driving it did the same thing.I replaced the raideator cap but no change.Removed the fill plub in thermostat housing and water spews out when running.Seems pump is ok.Removed plugs and found 1&2 rusty.Removed head cleaned it up checked with straight edge and installed with new gasket set.Still does the same thing.Would it be a... MORE
The car is located close to where I live so I went over and looked at it. I do not know Toyota engines but saw Toyota on the oil cap. It is located on a salvaged car lot. The PO had gone to a lot of trouble to weld in new engine mounts and modify the trans tunnel. Looks like he gave up before completing the project. There were lots of parts on it I wanted but I have no place to put the complete car. I have no use for the engine and trans, or I would have... MORE
Some of the kits come with a front cover that's split on the crank centreline, which should let you change the belt with the engine in situ. David "David Jacobs" 20898... MORE
With pleasure, RDG. Easiest way: www.MiniMania.com Do Search on "Sprite", "Performance", "All"..... and enter Belt Cam Drive in Search Box, Bob. They've got a couple avail. depending upon "adjustability". Now out there somewhere, is a set-up wherein the front cover can be "split" and the belt replaced without having to lift the engine to remove the front cover. Dave Jacobs posted on this and I too, have seen such a se-up. Unfortunately, I can't where I saw it, either! BTW, the MiniMania set-up does have a breather takeoff on the timing cover... about $280. The Kevlar belt will run... MORE
Have they tested that claim I wonder. Of course I'm sure they'll spring for an engine rebuild if it does fail :) Boy, I wish I knew how!! I know of no way to change the belt without removing the radiator and lifting the engine, Jeremy, and it is for exactly the reasons you mention that I sprung for the more costly Kevlar belt offered by MiniMania/MiniSpares (about US$40), which should last about the lifetime of a normally driven street application. At least this is "the plan"! :) Cap'n. Bob '60 :{) jeremy.cogman@... 20872... MORE
Yup that's the one. Keep it in the toilet and dip into while you are in there for other reasons! Good luck. Hi Jeremy! If you mean "tuning the A-series" by Vizard i have it and have started to read it, very thick book thou it will take me a while. Jens jeremy.cogman@... 20871... MORE
I considered it and I'd like the reduction in noise but I'd understood the belt life was <20k miles and as I do about 10k a year. Can the belt be changed without lifting the engine i.e. can you get the timing cover off past the x-member? , Jeremy Cogman.... One of the best (if not THE best) books on Series A engines ever put together, IMHO. He's tested virtually everything in his book on a dyno. The stuff is either proven or disproven factually. This is my main engine reference manual. Couldn't and wouldn't want to do without... MORE
