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Does anyone have tips on how to see the timing marks without standing on your head with a flash light (torch) clutched between your teeth? It was difficult to get a good line of site on the 63 but seems near impossible to view them on my 74. Not sure if this is a serious question or simply a rant. The engine runs great but I am still getting some miss-firing on deceleration Don "Don May" 20493... MORE


Did you check the centering of the jets already? Do the pistons fall back to the bridge when lifting them? Sounds like the mixture is way too lean for some strange reason... Eeg. Eeg.Oberije@... 20488... MORE


Don.... You will almost always get some mis-firing on deceleration with any engine of this vintage (no air pollution stuff)...., most especially heard with a glass pack, RC 40 or any free-flow system "worn in"....even the stock system when worn out!! In the 50's, this was part of what was called "backing off" and is usually confined to the lower rpm range. My new motor does this as well and is tuned beautifully...totally normal. Cap'n. Bob '60 :{) PilotRob@... 20497... MORE


Jason... You can mark them if you want but there is no need to do so because the settings will change a bit over time anyway, as the engine gains miles, wears, and "compression/leak down" changes over time, but it won't hurt anything if you do! :) These carbs are no big deal to adjust, Jason. It's not all that critical, but best to err on the "slightly" rich, rather than weak side of the proper setting, to be sure. Do not fear this procedure. These carbs are very user friendly and one of the most simple, best carbs.... MORE


It would be cool to have a sprite and a mini. They share some parts too, as I am sure you know, provided you get one from the same era. All the tuning advice for the 'A' series engine applies to both. I've had 3 minis, and only recently came to spridgets. They are a superb drive through the bends. Rust-wise, I wouldn't say they were worse than spridgets, but I did see one once with a rusty roof - you wont get that on a spridget! Timbo. "Tim R." 20481... MORE


Jens, The manual says you'll need to heat the ring up to 300 to 400C (572 to 752F) to get it to expand enough. I can vaguely remember doing one myself - I must have done it in one of the furnaces in work as a domestic oven will not go that high. I doubt if putting the flywheel in the freezer will help as they only go down to about -18 or so; not enough to shrink it. Regards David "David Jacobs" 20473... MORE


Yes... a simple solution! Set the static timing to TDC via the marks. Then on the top side of the engine (distributor side) simply put a dab of white paint on the timing cover and on the crank pulley. Multiple marks as desired. One mark for TDC, and one for the timing mark you want to set it to. :^) Paul Tegler wizardz@... http://www.teglerizer.com 20496... MORE


Trevor, Could the plug leads be failing or the distributor cap / plug lead covers be cracked? Try running the engine in the dark (not just shadow) and look for sparks and lightning flashes around the HT side. There is a quicker way of holding onto the dist cap and leads whilst the engine is running but this is normally painful and you sometimes have to do it repeatedly to establish the exact source! - don't do it! Having a look at an engine in the dark can be an enlightening experience for many who use WD40 type liquids... MORE


Well... At least your's engages the flywheel, Jens! You may have worn teeth on the Bendix along with wear on the ring gear. Or, maybe a worn battery down on power? Or leads or grounds than need a little clean-up so all that battery power gets to the starter which is only one part of this elecrical "loop"? Hmmmm.... Cap'n. Bob '60 :{) PilotRob@... 20449... MORE


okay, last night I'm working on a few little things before getting the 79 on the road. It sat all winter, in an unheated garage, and I didn't have a trickle charger so the battery was almost dead. Put the battery charger on it, let it sit for awhile, and tried to fire it off. The starter sounds like it's just spinning, not turning the engine at all. I put it in gear, rolled it a few feet, and tried again. The starter just spins and spins, so hopefully it's not the flywheel, or whatever it's called. I have... MORE


More advice from the Group please. My car is having a complete professional respray this year (not to bare metal though), visible sections only. In other words, I am not stripping out the engine, interior and jetwashing the underside, but I am having some new hinge-pillars welded in, body fully flatted down and so on. The colour is and will be tarten red, the original colour for the car. They've asked me if I want cellulose or 2-pack paint. I said I want durability over originality. But then I remembered hearing that 2- pack doesn't look right on a... MORE


Here are the steps I would take. 1. Be sure to have a full charge on the battery and make sure all connections to the starter are clean. That would the battery terminals, next the connections in and out of the starter solenoid then the terminal on the starter motor. Also check that the ground strap from the chassis to the engine is there. 2. Try the starter again, if it only spins and does not engage then remove it which is very simple as it is held on by only two bolts. You will have to remove the... MORE


Have the carbs been off? If so could it be a manifold gasket problem? Are you sure the caps are on the right plugs? Have you done a compression test? Have you checked the valve clearances? jeremy.cogman@... 20396... MORE


Russ.... Assume this is happening in all gears and is not a function of speed and only engine rpm's. I am an "A" Series kind of guy but have heard from 1500 guys on the list that this engine has a penchant to loose thrust washers off the crank. Evidently they are not "pinned" and as wear takes place, they simply fall out into the sump and the crank starts moving fore and aft. Not being real familiar with this, I would assume one would really feel this in the clutch and/or gearbox. Not saying this is your problem... MORE


Trevor... Sorry about your problem but check the valve clearances (if not already done) and do a compression/leak down check and see what the "numbers" are. Cap'n. Bob '60 :{) PilotRob@... 20397... MORE


they're actually stainless steel, and ought to clean up ok in place with some metal polish. If you still want to remove them, there's supposed to be a little stud that passes through the sill, at one end of the trim strip (can't remember if it's at the front or the rear) and has a nut at the back holding it in place. Along the rest of the length there are spring clips holding it on; you need to carefully lever the strip off with a wide bladed screwdriver or scraper or something similar. It's best to lever the... MORE


Hi Don, I've been under the weather, sorry I haven't posted recently. I run those tires on my car and love them. I wonder if you would though as they are low profile and will lower your speed, your motor will be reving. I changed to a 3.7 rear end to make up for the low tire size. These are real high performance tires and as such they do wear fast too but do they stick. I would look for some 165 / 70 / 13 or even 155 will work fine. I've got a 71 with wire wheels... MORE


depends on the garage....if they have a good heavy duty drill press and a center cut end mill. they should be able to counterbore where the nuts go on the header....they need to bore a large enough diameter to allow for a socket to fit over the nut....If the studs are too short....why dont they just use longer ones? David A. Stevens Jr. Utilities Engineer II NYS Office Of General Services Sheridan Avenue Steam Plant 79 Sheridan Avenue Albany, NY 12210 "Stevens, David" 20302... MORE


actually I have not had to have header plates done....but getting heads planed is about the same process.....I would tell them to leave as much metal as possible...to avoid heat warping..... Is the problem that the studs are not long enough.....or tightness of the intake and exhaust manifold.......maybe they could use an end mill and counterbore for the nuts......if it is a stud length problem David A. Stevens Jr. Utilities Engineer II NYS Office Of General Services Sheridan Avenue Steam Plant 79 Sheridan Avenue Albany, NY 12210 "Stevens, David" 20300... MORE


Currently registered, roll bar, vintage pop open gas cap, new windshield, new tries, custom fender flares, lowered, sway bars, later model 1275cc motor comes. dual SU carbs, alt convert, new battery, elect igintion, new starter, new starter switch, disk brakes, new exhaust system, just has head gasket, valves adjusted, new dist cap, has the wrong seats, and much much more. I am flying out of the country friday night. The car has $8000.00 put into it and I am willing to sell it for $3000.00 I was asking $5000.00 comes with tow bar as well I also have a... MORE


I"ve got the Haynes. I have access to a really good shop here and trust them to do good work. Tom Bedenbaugh of Memphis Imports and Sports. He's done all the engine work on it. "Virginia" 20261... MORE


Check the distributor cap isn't 180 degrees wrong way around. The old A Series will run like this but not well. "Tim R." 20236... MORE


1964 Austin Sprite EX racer. Currently registered, roll bar, vintage pop open gas cap, new windshield, new tries, custom fender flares, lowered, sway bars, later model 1275cc motor comes. dual SU carbs, alt convert, new battery, elect igintion, new starter, new starter switch, disk brakes, new exhaust system, just has head gasket, valves adjusted, new dist cap, new hoses, and belts, everything from MOSS motors or england, much much more. It does have the wrong seats, . I am flying out of the country friday night. The car has $8000.00 put into it and I am willing to sell... MORE


Mike: Tube tip hangs just off the bottom of the tank and is normally covered with a little "sock" or net to keep larger debris at bay. Continue cleaning out all fuel lines with compressed air right up the carbs. to make sure all is clear. Now I'll let those 1500 types familiar with that "ZS" carburetter take it from here 'cause "I heard tings" about that water choke/diaphragm set-up and I'm a series "A" SU/Weber kinda guy anyway. Cap'n. Bob '60 :{) PilotRob@... 20221... MORE


Hi everyone. I have a '79 Midget 1500 which I have been working on getting roadworthy for many months. Car has orig. ZS150CD4T carb with water choke, first the history: Cleaned out tank All new rubber fuel hoses New mech fuel pump carb has had basic rebuild incl. gaskets,cleaning,new gross jet, choke made operational,new decel bypass valve(which did not work so now holes are taped off) manifold is tight, not to mention everything else,tune up, timing set,etc. Problem: Car starts ok, will idle fine, I have let it idle for a 1/2 hour at a time. Revs up ok.... MORE