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Just found a datsun 210 of 1981 vintage.It has a blown head gasket and a good 5 speed tranny.Any one know if this is a good candidate for swap into 1500midget? "stanley hill" 18445... MORE
I don't know why they went to the larger diameter, but the reasion that I, and many others switched is the larger bore of the slave cylinder makes it easier to depress the clutch. The strange part is that when they went to disc brakes, very large bores, they switched the master cylinder from 7/8" bores to 3/4". It makes it easier to depress, but you are moving less fluid. Bob, Portland, OR "Robert Webb " 18420... MORE
G'day Don .............unless you have the very latest version of the slave cylinder, which has a "waisted" piston and the rubber cup fits over it. Did I forget to say that????? Yup, it was standard but not fitted to many cars. It would have a 7/16" fitting at the end for the flexible clutch hose? Colin "Colin Dodds" 18409... MORE
My engine adapter mounts on the distributor side of the block with only two 5/16 bolts, you can see this type of adapter in Vizard's book. "hapfp2000 " 18415... MORE
G'day Don Starting at the bottom of the slave cylinder, we have: 1.. a spring 2.. a plastic spreader for the rubber cup 3.. the rubber cup 4.. steel piston, a little under 1" deep with a conical recess in the front to locate the pushrod 5.. the dust boot No circlip. It seems when they went from 7/8" to 1" someone decided there wasn't enough room for the circlip groove. I see heaps of clutch pushrods extended with chopped-off bolts. Clearly you will get more clutch travel with a longer pushrod. No? Well the previous owner/mechanic thought you... MORE
Yep, measured the piston again 1" dia. Have the dust cover just did not include it in the photo. Any ideas on why they went from a 7/8" bore to a 1" bore when the slave master is a 7/8 inch bore? "And odd thing to is the repair kit for the 7/8" bore is $3.25 and for the 1" is $13.95 this for a rubber seal and dust boot? I called Moss and they could not answer if the piston was different in the 1" than the 7/8" just that they had kits for both 7/8 and 1"... MORE
Other than missing the front "dust cover", looks just like my 7/8" and 1". But it looks more like my old 7/8". Are you sure the bore is 1" The pistion looks a little small. Bob, Portland, OR "Robert Webb " 18408... MORE
Ah yes Bob.......... Thank you that was a rather important part I left out and learned and remember very well on my first engine pull. BIG OIL SPOT Don "Don " 18401... MORE
Thanks Colin, Yep, it has a 7/16" fitting and uses a flexible hose. Now to find which kit to order for it. I suspect it uses the same waisted piston that was used in the 1500 slave and that rubber cup is the one I need. I have the correct rubber end cap for the cylinder. Take care, Don "Don May" 18412... MORE
Don have done a few and it is a very easy process. The main thing to do is to get everything loose and pick the motor up just enough to be able to get to the nut on the front pully and remove that as well as the pulley and that will allow you to pull the motor and transmission forward easily, clear everything and then up and out. I found that the easiest way is to pull both at the same time. It does help to have an swivel hoist although I have done without it and there... MORE
http://www.mossmotors.com/cgi- bin/db2www/mossmotors/MossUSA/Shop/ViewProducts.mac/report? T=45750&ModelID=50000&PlateID=2768 Try this Part # 38 is what I think you are looking for I hope this helps. At one point on my car I was unable to engage my clutch so I had to jury rig it. I had a function coming up that I wanted to take the MG to. Consequently we made this rod longer in order to get more travel in the clutch due to the fact that the throw out plate was almost gone. It worked long enough to get me through that weekend in about three weeks of minor driving until... MORE
Don... Taking the whole thing out is easier but draining the gearbox usually saves a mess on the foor, as the engine is raised and the whole assembly is tilted downward from front to back at quite an angle in order to "withdraw" all via the engine compartment. Oil normally leaks out of the rear gearbox seal at this point...rapidly! Frank Clarici has a wealth of experience pulling and reinstalling engines from Bugeyes and Spridgets (as do some others on the list). You know how things go when you do a lot of these....you develop "tricks" which allow the... MORE
Bentley's manual lists a 1098 engine weight as 253 lbs. If I recall the 1275 is around 270 lbs. Transmission is listed at 44 lbs. Any one know or guess about how much a 1275 engine weighs stripped of the head, starter, generator, carburetors, exhaust manifold, distributor, all the smog equipment and oil filter? I suppose I could weigh them all and practice some higher mathematics but why not ask first. Don "Don May" 18407... MORE
It does help maintain concentricity (if you like those big words)....and eliminates any undue side stress on the bolts...just make sure that the length of the bushing is less than the thickness of the mounting brackets...that way you will be sure that the bracket is tight against the engine David A. Stevens Jr. Utilities Engineer II NYS Office Of General Services Sheridan Avenue Steam Plant 79 Sheridan Avenue Albany, NY 12210 "Stevens, David" 18398... MORE
Kim, I had the same concerns a while back.....what I did was make some bushings from steel pipe....just long enough so that they would cure the slack problem without actually being long enough to touch the engine when tightened.......4 - 5/16 diameter bolts should be enough to hold the engine in place......just make sure that the weight is OFF the stand while you are tightenenig them.....in other words.......pick the engine up with something else ( come a long, chainfall etc.) hold it in place while you bolt the block to the engine stand......then remove the hoist. David A. Stevens... MORE
Don, In my 79...the mainshaft extends approximately 3 inches into the clutch housing....the engine needs to be able to move forward enough to clear that.......I loosened the front mounts for the transmission enough to allow the front of the engine to clear the cross arm......I have also removed the engine and tranny as a unit before....that is not the solution you request...but it is an option. David A. Stevens Jr. Utilities Engineer II NYS Office Of General Services Sheridan Avenue Steam Plant 79 Sheridan Avenue Albany, NY 12210 "Stevens, David" 18388... MORE
Peter Yes it does, and we are talking about the same thing. So whats the best way of removing the tie rod end ball joint from the steering arm - cos that doesnt want to move either - do I need a ball-joint splitter? tia Nigel "amukdigiphoto " 18367... MORE
Yeah, a swivel or tilter bar on it would be very helpful. Don't connect the engine hoist hook at the middle of the engine, lift at somewhat towards the front of the engine. This will make the engine/transmission tilt with the back lower than the front. This will help clear the battery tray. Kim Yuchol 18399... MORE
OK David, I still have it on the engine hoist so I won't have to put any weight on it till I have all 4 bolts tightened. I guess I need to make some sort of sleeve too. Kim Yuchol 18397... MORE
Thanks Colin I posted a photo on the group photos in my folder (Don May) What you described is what I would have expected but this is what was in the car. Check out the photo "Slave cyl" Was there ever a 1" cylinder like that for a 1275? Don "Don May" 18403... MORE
OK, I went and got some 5/16 grade 8 bolts to mount the engine to the stand to work on it. The question is, are they strong enough to hold the engine with just 4 of 5/16 inch bolts? Plus, the holes on the mount of the stand are 1/2 inch and there would be a lot of play in them with these bolts. I did get some heavy duty washers to bolt through. Maybe I'm worrying too much.. Kim Yuchol 18392... MORE
Oh Don, I have never pulled a Spridget engine out either-till 2 days ago! I tell you, it was much easier than I thought. But I pulled mine with the transmission. I don't think half an inch will be enough, but I think you can if you take the transmission support bolts out and just let the transmission angle up a bit with the engine to clear the brace. You'd have to put some sort of support under the transmission but boy, half an inch is awfully close. Just take the whole thing out. Kim Yuchol 18390... MORE
Thanks Don, Moss Part #35 illustration is the outer style of the slave in the car (69 1275 midget), but the inside parts are like the ones in illustration Part #50 for the 1500 models. No tapered spring and the seal fits around the plunger and with no cirque retainer nor is there a grove for one in the cylinder. ??? Don "Don May" 18394... MORE
I took two photos of the bent cross brace and how it is pushed back almost to the engine pulley and posted them on the group photo site in my folder "Don May" (Cross brace and cross brace 2) I can barely squeeze the fan belt in the space between the brace and the engine pulley. Don "Don May" 18393... MORE
Never pulled a Spridget engine and need advice. The cross brace in front of the front engine pulley had been pushed back at some point in the life of the car and is only 1/2 and inch in front of the pulley. The instructions in my manuals simply say lift the engine and pull it out. (Bentley and Haynes) But . . . how far forward does the engine need to travel to disengage from the clutch/flywheel before you can begin to lift it up and out? I do not have a clear picture of how the engine shaft... MORE
