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Trying to figure out what the PO's mechanic did to the clutch slave cylinder on the 69 Midget. The slave cylinder is 1" diameter for a 1275. Neither of the parts catalogues have a diagram of the interior parts for a 1" cylinder. It has no cirque retainer to keep the plunger from exiting it as does the diagram for the 7/8' cylinder and the seal fits around the plunger not like the flat one that fits between the spring and end of the plunger as shown for the 7/8 cylinder. The one in my cylinder looks like the... MORE
The wings are bolted on. Several LARGE Phillips head screws at the nose of the car. I believe there are 3 cap screws beneath the carpet and kick panels in the footwells. You need to be careful of the wiring harness connections for the headlamps, thur signals and side markers. They are accessible by removing the front wheels. There are several bullet type connectors there that will allow you to separate the wing from the chassis without removing the lights. I would suggest you use an impact type screwdriver for those phillips screws, they tend to strip out easily.... MORE
G'day all I like the attention to detail. Little things like: 1.. unpadded roll bar directly above your head; 2.. pedal box assembly, wiper motor (including park wire), suspension etc nicely painted in contrasting green primer; 3.. unplugged holes between the engine bay and the cabin; 4.. no grille to protect radiator and intercooler; 5.. at least 3" gap between inner and outer front guards (fenders?) so that those wide wheels can fill the engine bay with mud, rocks etc; 6.. broom handle bonnet prop; 7.. open breathers on the cam covers; 8.. the battery corrosion hole on the... MORE
Thanks for your input David. I am debating whether to try your method...it all depends on whether my clutch release bearing is doing its job. Do you know how far a fully-extended clutch pedal should be from teh footwell/firewall? Or, even better, the depth the slave cylinder should extend to (I think I can get a little thingy in to measure its extension). Thanks R "rior95037 " 18352... MORE
Hi all I sent that link to that car originally, the 160 mph spridget. It's been on my mind for 2 days=85. I have 59 bugeye, and a 79 midget the bugeye's speedo didn't work till recently so I don't know what it will do... I would guess maybe 55 with the 948. But the midget has a 1500 and a weber, I DO KNOW that at 85 mph, "I" get wimpy. The car will do more, ( I don't think "a lot") but I wont. Guess my age "43" and some responsibilities is "my" Governor LOL You would... MORE
aerodynamics, I'd have thought. Or how much drag vs how much power. If my memory serves correctly, the standard bodied 1275 Spridget modified by Special Tuning in the early 70s did about 117mph flat out when tested by one of the motoring mags (can't remember which at the moment) Regards David "David Jacobs" 18323... MORE
Not knocking the car - it looks good and I guess is "interesting" to drive. Just questioning the claimed top speed. In my book, top speed is the fastest it will actually go, not simply a claculation based on the gearing and what it would produce at the second before it "blows" when redlined. Actually, the top speed of mine is somewhere about 120mph. This has nothing to do with gearing or engine mods, so what is it? Guy "Guy Weller" 18317... MORE
Question : What is the height of globalization? Answer : Princess Diana's death Question : How come? Answer : An English princess with an Egyptian boyfriend crashes in a French tunnel, driving a German car with a Dutch engine, driven by a Belgian who was high on Scottish whiskey, followed closely by Italian Paparazzi, on Japanese motorcycles, treated by an American doctor, using Brazilian medicines! And this is sent to you by an American, using Bill Gates' technology which he got from the Japanese. And you are probably reading this on one of the IBM clones that use Philippine-made... MORE
Guy... Understand the first part of your post totally as to where you are coming from in terms of theoretical as opposed to reality. Sure. Not sure about the last paragraph though. You seem to by saying the real top speed of your car is 120 but this has nothing to do with redline or gearing? (Nah!) Or, are you saying the theoretical top speed of your car is 120 but it won't get there despite redline and gearing? (Sounds better!) If it is the latter, than you won't get to 120 any more than his would get to... MORE
I'd imagine they are the same. I'm in the UK where the Metric virus has taken hold and over 5/16 would mean eaither UNF (Unified Fine) or UNC (Unified Coarse) or at the outisde Whitworth but we don't talk about that. As UNF / UNC are American standards I guess your standard 5/16 is probably one or the other, progably UNF. UNC is less common and tends to be used for threading into aluminium or other soft materials or where very high tensile stresses are involved such as the cylinder heads studs in the block. Take one of the... MORE
Hi everyone: New to the group. I have owned Triumphs, Lotus, MGB, Fiats...but this is my first Midget. Our MG is a 1979 US 1500. It is a 37,000 mile car but has been neglected. I am lucky as there appears to be no rust... I am anxious to get her running again. The engine barely ran; it turned out the ZS carb slide had gummed up, preventing airflow. But, I have a clutch problem: Even with the pedal down, I cannot get the car to go into gear (ie "clutch spin"). The trans I believe is OK since... MORE
Exactly, Dave Stevens....and wrongomundo, Jeremy Cogman! Storage is not great in our LBC's to begin with. In my case, I felt the effectiveness of the .50 cal. I have mounted on my hood far "outweighed" the greater quantity of lighter, .30 calibre ammo I'd have to carry to "get the job done"! A simple conversion to the stiffer 10 leaf 1/4 elliptic springs was all that was required after I turned the trunk into a "magazine", the fore/aft balance being maintained by mounting the heavy ".50" well forward on the hood (engine compartment "hood", that is!). I then mounted... MORE
OK, I admit it. I've never used an engine stand. I have pulled my 1275 out yesterday and now I want to mount it on the stand. Now, I assume I have to find long bolts that threads onto the back of the block, right? If yes, what threading is the bolt? I told you guys, it was a dumb question. Yuchol Kim Yuchol 18286... MORE
19 th November 1974, was the start of the 1500 vehicles. Radiator was changed in Oct 1975 for North American vehicles. There is a difference between a 1275 Radiator and a 1500 one, so I don't think you can interchange them. Nigel "amukdigiphoto " 18266... MORE
Can someone tell me what year they started using 1500 motors and will a radiator from a 75 work in a 74. Is there a differance in the radiator in a 1500 vrs 1275 and if there is will a 1500 radiator work in the 74 without to much of a problem. Thanks Don 65 & 74 midgets "Don " 18265... MORE
At 160 MPH you had better hope that he did everything right, actually not just right, PERFECT! The frame horns don't look "Bugeye", too wide and small and the rod that holds up the bonnet can't just clip down like regular cars. You could only open the bonnet at home. Nice job, but still has more to go. Bob, Portland, OR 60 Bugeye "Robert Webb " 18264... MORE
Don't know what the confussion is. Just a case of semantics. It's a '65 Sprite with a fiberglass bugeye/frogeye bonnet. From the engine bay shot and interior shot it looks like a well thought out conversion. Everything looks neat and tidy, no half-a**ed work. The price on the other hand and wether it will actually do 160 mph are questionable. Should be a very spirited driver! Biff Jones '59 Bugeye 'Kermit' '61 Sprite 'Ole Gray' in "The Healey Book" '71 Midget 'Freebie' under restoration http://sprites2.homestead.com/ "Biff Jones" 18259... MORE
Hi all, Just purchased a 1965 mk2 mainly for my wife to have fun in on the weekends. During the trip home on the transporter a section of chain wore through a weak gas tank and started a leak. I have ordered a new tank, rubber pipe, gaskets, screws for the sending unit from Moss in the united states. My question is should I replace some other items that I might not know about. Sending unit maybe? Thanks in advance! Guy "majvaneekelen " 18216... MORE
Yeah, it does... The Facet fuel filter prior to the pump doesn't remove the really fine stuff that the K&N engine compartment one does, really. I think the K&N goes down to five microns or something like that. Probably better off having the K&N mounted "down there" between the tank and the pump, though, which is I think, what you're really saying. And, if so, I have to agree with you for obvious reasons, Dave. I don't think the fuel can ever be overfiltered, though there is only so much pressure! :) Cap'n. Bob (Ret'd) '60 Frog PilotRob@... 18238... MORE
Hi, Gerard, That may explain the cut off lifter rod stuffed way up in the hose to the air pump I discovered on the 69. :-) If I recall correctly had the same offer on my (was) 76 Volvo 242DL. Funny thing is it always passed smog with very low emissions recorded. How did you like that great weather yesterday? The 72 I looked at yesterday was in worse shape than the wonderful 63 you turned me onto. The guy is in for a reality check. As I posted later the seller had taken is as part payment for... MORE
Correctomundo, Don. In later cars, a fuel filter was placed in the engine compartment, I beleive, when they went over to emissions types, I think. The Facet square solid state pumps can be had with a screw in filter as an option, I also have a K&N cleanable filter in the engine compartment. But none came with the earlier cars as far as I know except that in tank gauze one that I covered over while coating the new tank on my PO'd '67 Sprite....you don't wanna know what I went through to tear that SOB outta there, afterward!!... MORE
G'day Don If you look at any rear axle half-shaft (other than a new one) you will clearly see how much of it goes into the diff centre. There is a very visible witness mark over 1.5" from the end. So if you use a wire wheel shaft, that is 3/4" shorter, then clearly you will still have over 3/4" engaged. It works fine, as long as you don't try and "burn-outs". I know a lot of cars that have had this done and no of none that have had problems. Of course, it's not the tidiest way to... MORE
Paul I hear what you say and to a point I agree. BUT - you knew that was coming didn't you - My experience has been that if it is going to free up, it will free up quite easily by rotating the engine while keeping the car still with the clutch pedal disengaged, but if it doesn''t free up easily, the only safe way to do it without storing up troubles for later is to dismantle it. So 1) Make sure the hydraulics are working or hold the lever of mechanically and try shifting it that way. But... MORE
I hope that it stays that way after you have finished rebuilding it! :-) Good luck Don. So long as you take it steady, you will have fun and a great sense of achievement when you have finished. Just one thing though, as you dismantle, make a note of which length bolt goes where, particularly on the engine / bell housing joint, otherwise you might have 'a bit of fun' re-assembling it! "Roger Stinson" 18191... MORE
There are a many cars running around on the streets today that have switched to wire wheels using both methods. I would recommed switching the rear end as well. There is a 1 1/2" difference in the rear end widths. This will also effect the location of the wheels to the body. I have a set of axles and front hubs that I would like to sell and I know of people that have a rear end, both 1/4 and 1/2 eleptic that they want to sell. Contact me off list for information of either. Second question. The 1275... MORE
