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Bob, and all Have the nylon washer out now and have removed the pistons. The rear piston was not attached to the front by anything. The manuals I have do not show the wire, or what ever, that wraps around the pins at the end of the front piston to the front of the rear piston. There is what looks to be a cotter pin attached around the rear piston pin but loose. I have no idea how long it is suppose to be, the distance between the front and rear piston, or how compressed the spring is supposed... MORE
Hi all I have one Innocenti Spider 950 Year 1961 with the engine Nr. 9D-U-H- 91758 I have no idee what kind off engin Nr is it for Sprite AN5, or Sprite Mark II, or MG Midget - you start with 9C-U-H.. or 9C-G... ! What is 9D-U-H...? Can you help me about the Numbers - Code Indentifcations for the (my) engine MBC Thanks for help. What is the right Nr for the Gearbox? Is this one Smoot Gearbox Case 948cc? or Ribbed Gearbox Case 1098cc? The Disk for Clutch DIM 6 1/4 is correct? Disk Nr Borg &... MORE
According to Horler the 950 Innocenti used engines with the prefix 9CA-U-H or 9CB-U-H. ( The "U" means a center change lever gearbox and the "H" means high compression. I can find no reference to a 9D prefix . Could it be 9CB and the C is not ledgible and D you see is actually a B? George Stronghilos 17365... MORE
Here's how I removed the innards from my second master cylinder re- build: stopped up all the holes but one and applied air pressure to the cylinder. All the innards popped right out. Be sure to use low pressure 10-25 pounds and don't point the the toward yourself or anyone else. Oh yes, I removed the innards from my first master cylinder by drilling holes in the nylon sleeve until it fell apart. By that time I had marked up everything else in the cylinder with the drill bit. No useable parts left! John "mg_john2 " 17345... MORE
Once I used compressed air to remove the insides of a clutch slave cylinder, had never done it before, zapped it with 80 lbs of air pressure . . . I found the spring a month later during a major shop clean up. :-) I was lucky that time, it was not pointed at me and I had a spare slave to rob one from. Now I do not use 80lb, I don't point it at myself, and I make sure I have some rags wrapped over the end. Don "Don May" 17351... MORE
I am overhauling the dual cylinder master cylinder from the 69 midget. Having a problem here. I have removed the spriolox retaining ring and the outer spring then with some effort removed the circlip which should release the Nylon guide bearing and seal and allow me to remove the rest of the internal parts . . . can't get the nylon guide to come out Ahhhhhhh! cleaned around it, pushed in and quickly released the plunger so it would act as sort of a hammering effect on the rear of the nylon seal. Still cannot get it to come... MORE
It is that cross member that the steering rack and the transfer pipe are attached to that is bent back on this car. The previous owner must have hit some deep pot holes or curbs because that tubular cross member is bent inward about a quarter of an inch or more toward the engine making it almost impossible to remove the belt. There is no sign that the car was damaged from stricking anything with the bumper. That is why I am thinking of parting out the car because I do not want to invest the money to cut... MORE
Don, you can use either radiator with the 1275 (the change came part way through 1275 production), but you will need to use the thermostat housing which matches the rad - the crossflow one has a pipe pointing to the left, the vertical flow to the right. As to which one is 'best', I don't think there's a huge difference in cooling performance so if you are going for 'original appearance' use the vertical flow one, or if you're not bothered, use the one in better condition! Cheers David "David Jacobs" 17314... MORE
Either way, Don... The '67's had the 1275 with the downflow while later models used the xflow which was a "closed" system with it's own overflow tank, through which the system is filled. I've had an alum. downflow for the past two years and my PO'd '67 Sprite had the stock downflow so I'm a little rusty in the xflow dept. I seem to recall the xflow's steering rack incorporating a crossflow tube whereas the downflow cars didn't. However, this facet of the installation can be easily attended to by other means I'm sure. There are those who feel... MORE
When I get the 1275 engine in the 69 MK-III running (most likely it will become a parts car because of a bent front cross frame member) if the engine is in good condition I am thinking of transferring it and the rib cage trans to my 63 MK-1. I have not done this before and the information I cannot find is this: Do you use the existing down flow radiator in the MK-1 or also transfer the 69 horizontal flow radiator over to the 63? Don "Don May" 17312... MORE
Would someone please tell me how to remove the valve cover off a 948 engine? Happy New Year Ed. Don "Don May" 17309... MORE
A happy new year to you Bob and everyone else. Thanks for the tips. Seeing that it is so easy to remove the gas tank and after my experience with the 63 tank and fuel lines I went ahead and took this one off to clean it. I have a background in electronics so play around with most electrical things but in the future will go with a solid state one. Points and contacts are a curse both in Sprigets and old radios which I restore. Would purchase one now but you know . . . retired, lots of... MORE
Good questions!! Do I think the RWA (Round Wheel Arch - as it appies to the rear wheel openings, Don) '73/74's are worth more? Yes, I do because IMHO, RWA Spridget's look far sportier and more well balanced, though I love 'em all. 'Course, beauty IS in the eye of the beholder, and it is the beholder who will be doing the buying, in the event. Anyhow, since RWA Spridgets were made for only two years, I would guess there would be fewer of them than their "square" brothers/sisters. Supposedly, structural strength was the issue in terms of going... MORE
okay, I've removed the air pump and check valve from my '79 1500. Should I just block off the line from the check valve which goes in to the exhaust manifold ( it appears)? And will this require rejetting the carb? It ran almost perfect before and ran better with the air pump belt removed...any other Ideas on what I can pull off to make it a better, non-emission-impaired engine? thanks in advance... BTW, I live in a non-emission checking state. On the East coast of the US. And the car emits nothing as it is, so if I... MORE
Well for one thing...that engine prefix (FM) is a Triumph Spitfire prefix FP is Midget 1500cc FM is Spitfire The UE prefix is emissions equipped. The SS is a factory supplied spare engine. 7.2 was the head and piston (dished) 8.5 is dished pistons and the smaller chamber volume of the mid 70's head 9.1 is flat top pistons. ...no way to tell what you have just looking at the engine #;'s Paul Tegler ptegler@... www.teglerizer.com "ptegler@cablespeed" 17248... MORE
Sorry chaps in view of the recent correspondance re Brakes, I will add my tuppenyworth to the list now as it appears appropriate. ...................................... Ref. The brake shoe springs are supposed to pull the shoes back from the drum and their close relationship is governed by the proper adjustment of the brakes, via the adjuster. ......................................................................................... If each wheel cylinder has two rubber seals, why don't they auto retract and bring the brake shoes off the drum, LIKE THE FRONT CALIPER SEALS ARE ALLEGED TO DO ? Unless things have changed since I worked for Lockheed Brake Co. and... MORE
I can't tell which fulcrum pins you;re talking about, but if you are referring to the ones for the king pin, they are screwed in. You can't drive them out with a punch no matter how much heat you apply. The ones in the frame have rubber bushings with metal sleeves. Those frequently will rust onto the pins. A good penetrant and some patience is you best first shot. If that doesn't work, a torch will help, but you'll make a hell of a toxic sting from the burning rubber bushes. On the pistons, it would be a mistake... MORE
Brad, I use a crescent/box wrench that size for just such a purpose. Easier than unbolting all that stuuf just to crank the engine over. The closed end is just the right angle and works perfectly in the limited space. Gerard "gerardchateau " 17241... MORE
I am having a tough time getting the fulcrum pins out, and yes I did remove the pins that keep them from rotating. They were rusted in and it took a hammer and punch to get them out. I am reluctant to get out the torch and heat these up, but that looks like the last resort, any suggestions? Also, my car has a Spitfire engine in it, how does one differentiate between the 7.2, 8.5 and 9.1 compression pistons? I want the 9.1's when I am finished with the rebuild. The cylinder measures right on the money for... MORE
Ed in SD writes: "With or without a working clutch....." Well......assuming "neutral".... normally the drag of transmission oil wouldn't be a factor, but since you are trying to turn it over by hand, and have no idea the viscosity of the oil in the gearbox or the shape it is in (jelled?), you might just find it a better idea to raise the rear wheels off the ground (less drag?) which might make the job go a little easier!! With the handbrake off! And, before you try, make sure the rear wheels will easily turn by hand! In other... MORE
Thanks Harry, thats what I needed to know about the gas lines, its raining here in NC today so I hope to have time to find the MG keys so I can get into the trunk to get the scissors jack to see if the tires will inflate with wt off of them! I poured marvel mystery oil in the cylinders yesterday, I am going to look for an aeresol can with a small straw so I can get the oil spread around a 360 degree area. i will use wd 40 if i cant find the MMO in... MORE
Good point about the clutch...they do have a way of "sticking". Better off having this car on jackstands to be sure engine does turn over freely and not being held in place by a sticking clutch with wheels grounded. Turn it over by the fan while holding tension on the belt with the other hand. Is oil in crankcase still liquified or has it "jelled" over time? Cap'n. Bob (Ret'd) '60 Frog PilotRob@... 17217... MORE
I know it may sound mad, but make sure all the return springs are in place and working. Over a period of time the heat shield tends to cut through them, resulting in over reving. Other than that make sure the pistons are dropping back correctly (that is if you have SU's) You can check by operating the lifting pins on the side of the carb body. Check the colour of your sparking plugs to see what state the mixture is in also. R "Roger Stinson" 17172... MORE
Don't waste your time at this stage removing the gas tank. A '73 should have a drain plug, but if it doesn't, buy yourself a hand-pump siphon for $10 or so. You can also easily remove the rubber hose connection between the filler neck and the tank opening (inside the trunk). Use a flashlight, not electric lamps to inspect. you don't want to take the chance of a spark igniting gas fumes. You will almost certainly need to disassemble the carbs and floats before it will runs, as well as the brake and clutch system. Once you hand crank... MORE
A new, but irritating problem has developed for me for Xmas... the engine starts fine...even from cold runs well, and i drop in the choke as i go along, as i have always done. and it settles down to a normal idle speed. I drive the car for 10 miles, and when i then stop for junctions etc... the engine is racing at 2500rpm!!! Ive replaced the choke cable...as a just in case measure..no diffeence! fuel consumption has increased considerably. Ive checked the linkeages, and can find nothing untoward Ive rechecked the accelerator cable...no probs.... it sits with a... MORE
