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Well, shes been sitting for 8 to 10 yrs, only my aging back caused me to quit driving! British Racing Green(originally mallard green)with tan seats. Heres my plan, Squirt marvel mystery oil down the spark plug holes to prepare the engine for a hand turnover via the fan blade bolt and a long ratchet(hope its not too hard to turn). I tried inflating to flat tires and only two inflated. I guess I will have to take the wheels off to get the other two to inflate as tubeless bead arent making a good seal, maybe I can just... MORE
jeff- While not qualified to say, it does seem that with modern digital electronics, auto-cam & ign. timing that without all that stuff they would still burn clean as a whistle when new. But as miles build, all that other stuff probably comes into play in keeping emissions to virtually "0" as wear and tear builds on engine mechanicals over time. My mech tells me that cat. convs. today are simply more of an additional clean-up device instead of THE primary clean-up device it used to be, so I'm sure there is a little more than something to what... MORE
Exactly, RBH- A "reasonable" category should be established for passenger-carrying SUV's appropriate to their weight/horsepower ratio or whatever. At his point they will become as efficient in these respects as they can reasonably be compatible with smooth running. It can be done and should be done for the well-being of all concerned, especially in "dense" traffic areas (NY Metro area, fr'instance). Later pollution-equipped Spridgets and LBC's have their "categorical" specs. to meet here in CT. 'til their 20th birthday at which time they become "exempt" in this respect, as do other older type pax carrying vehicles. Retrofitting non-pollution types... MORE
The short answer is that they could both be correct - in slightly different circumstances. It depends on a variety of factors, including your mig welder and the thickness if the sheet. The only real answer, unless you know someone who can actually show you, and give the benefit of their experience, is to do some trial welds on scrap until you get it correct. (Always a good idea BEFORE starting on your priceless MG - sorry - Spridget) One more thing, DON'T work along the holes in order. Move backwards and forwards along the length in order to... MORE
Steve- Sounds like they crushed the exhuast system....I've had this happen when the car is not carefully placed on the lift before being raised. Now you are probably hearing normal valve lifter noises "through" an exhaust leak caused by the above-mentioned, which would also account for all the other "noise" coming from the engine compartment. The accelerator cable will sometimes get "hooked up" on it's little metal end as it goes onto the heat shield in the engine compartment. This would account for a sudden way higher than normal idle. You might check that all throttle return springs as... MORE
Steve, I am based in Leeds and have recently just done a full clutch job and engine build. If I can help please contact me. Where did you get the job done and what did they say they have done. Sounds like they have put it all back together without any care as most symptoms sound like basic setting up ie unsealed exhaust connection, timing and possibly tappets. "Peter Whittle" 17066... MORE
With reference to your problems since having clutch fixed. 1. Did they fit a complete 3 piece clutch? 2. I recently took my engine out and replaced the clutch unit and inevitably when you remove an engine from a 35 year old (mine is 1967 too) engine it disturbs things. I had vibrations for a couple of weeks when accelarating in 3rd gear, turned out to be the timing had been knocked when hoisting the engine out. 3. Chinking noises could be tappets, put a screwdriver from your ear to the rocker cover while the engine is running and... MORE
1) Does it sound like nuts and bolts rattling in the cylinders? If so that's 'pinking' i.e. pre-ignition and this can wreck your engine because it will generate loads of heat that can melt pistons and burn valves. It can be caused by quite a few things but a likely source is excessively weak mixture. 2)Is the exhaust noise from the engine bay or somewhere along the pipe. 3) You are right, a standard 1275 should idle at 1000 or a bit less. No A-series however highly tuned idles at anywhere aprroaching 3500. Again fast idle can be a... MORE
Hello chaps We recently had a clutch problem with our Mark IV (1967) so she went in for some (very expensive I might add) work. Now she's come back, there seems to be a whole new set of problems that weren't there previously. Before I go back to the garage and ask them what the deuce they think they've done to my baby, I'd like to be as well-informed as possible. The symptoms are: 1. Quiet chinking noises from the engine, which get faster as I rev her up. My next-door neighbour suggests it might be the tappets, either... MORE
it's not usually the engine itself, it's mating it up to a suitable transmission that can be tricky - you'll need to source a suitable bellhousing or adaptor to get the two to join up. If it's already commercially available, it's obviously a whole lot easier! For example, the Rover K series/Ford gearbox is quite a well known conversion now. Regards David "David Jacobs" 17053... MORE
Yes Don, They are fundamentally the same, but the 1275 is different in quite a few areas including torque specs. If you plan to rebuild the engine, you will need 1275 specifics. You can get by with the Haynes I suppose, but I find so much inaccurate info in it, I don't trust it. Gerard "gerardchateau " 17047... MORE
I've posted this on other boards and thought I'd throw this out here as well. Has anyone looked into installing a Suzuki Swift GT engine in the Sprite and if so can they share their findings? Suzuki Swift Gt 1989-1995 1300cc DOHC 16 valve 100HP 83Lbs torque weighs about 275lbs. Although front wheel drive it will bolt up to a Samurai 2wheel drive tranny. George Stronghilos 17048... MORE
Gerard, thanks for the response. The rain, and a cold, has me shut down for awhile. Big time cabin fever, as you know I have no garage to work in other than my workshop which if full from top to bottom and in-between at the moment. But I removed the carbs from the 69 and can clean those to keep busy for a few hours. I think I can make enough space to bring in the engine to work on. Don "Don May" 17049... MORE
I presently have a copy of the Bentley's Complete Official 948 cc & 1098 CC Sprite/Midget manual I use for my 63 Midget. I now have a 1275 cc engine to work on. Aside from the emission control stuff on the engine is there enough differences between the 948/1098 cc engines to warrant spending $40.00 for the Bentley manual that also covers the 1275 cc engine? What are the differences between the 948/1098 cc engines and the 1275 cc engine? I have a Haynes manual that does cover the 1275 although I prefer the Bentley manuals. Don "Don May"... MORE
From my own apparent ignorance, may I ask why? I have always used a bit-o-grease just about any time I needed a little long-lasting lube including the pistons while rebuilding calipers - no ill effects that I have ever experienced first hand. Israel "Israel Engle" 17038... MORE
It has always been my practice to use a little bearing grease around the threads and haven't had that problem yet. Israel "Israel Engle" 17036... MORE
Hi, Have been having a terrible time with the engine on my '79 1500 Midkget since removing it to replace clutch. Still fighting with on and off not start problem, Leaking water pump and some other annoying things. Started to suspect a carb problem,insufficient choke? I have adjusted the choke a couple times very recently (ZS150CD4T) the one with the auto "water" choke. Went to check it once more, while removing the cover the black plastic insulator just crumbled to peices. I was hoping someone might be able to help me out with this part. I know alot of... MORE
Don- If all you are going to do is remove the air pump, you need do nothing in terms of tuning, Don. Neither the crankcase recirculation or closed circuit crankcase intake system (via the fuel tank with specific size orifices for crankcase and outside air "breathing") cost the engine any power. And while I personally have to have oil vapor circulated into the combustion process, there are benefits to this including cooler running and relieving the crankcase of "positive" pressure, thus taking the load off the seals in terms of oil leaks. What you should do is begin by... MORE
Starting to work on a 1275 engine from an early 1969 MKIII that has been sitting for 23 years. In good shape when last ran. From the look of the plugs when I pulled them it was in good tune at the time it last ran. The air injector pump is frozen solid and had no belt to it. I have no desire to leave the emission controls in except for the crankcase breather as they are no longer required for that age car. Does anyone have any tips I should know about or can point me to a... MORE
It does look like it has been closed against it's will. Like someone tried to force it down without unlocking the trunk rod support. It's possible that, as a result, the hinges have been bent, or sprung slightly. This would make a simple adjustment quite difficult. Just a possibility....... Paul mgmidgetguy@... 17006... MORE
I have a 60 bugeye with a 1098 gearbox installed. The fitting on the front U-joint does not face toward the access hole, and there is not enough room to get one of those angled fitings on a grease gun over fitting by going through the access hole. Can someone suggest how to get the grease gun onto the fitting? I'm also wondering if something was installed incorrectly? Also, my manual indicates that the front steering rack is to be lubed with 90 wt gear oil (I think - don't have the manual with me). The steering rack is... MORE
I was looking at my car real close and comparing it to the pictures in my book tonight, and noticed a few things I hadn't before. You can see where the catalytic converter has been cut off, and a short piece of pipe has been welded in place. Also the air pump is missing. The only traces are the original air pump mounting holes and the pulley that once attached to the belt driving it. If i'm drawing the right conclusions, the air pump doesnt help the performance of the car in any way, it's just another thing for... MORE
Great! Just what I need...another car! :) Guy wants way too much for it...were he selling it "built" and ready to go, it would be a different story. I used to own a '67 hardtop with a 1600cc GEX, "deep" sump, Weber DFEV, 009 Crane-equiipped dizzy with uprated coil, Glasspack sport exhaust, KYB tubes all around and 8 spoke 6" "White" wheels running 185/78 15's. All heat exited out from under the rear seat (excellent velocity & volumn). I think it could easily beat a Judson equipped 1200 with no problem. Car went like hell for a VW. Cruise... MORE
Professionaly at full bore. Bob, Portland, OR "Robert Webb" 16928... MORE
Hi all. Looking for help with a no start problem. I rimoved the engine on my Midget 1500 1979 to replace the clutch. Engine ran fine, started and ran it before I pulled it out. Now engine back in and it won't start. I thought I checked over everything so now I need some suggestions. All connections are tight. Points are opening, cap,points,wires,plugs all newly installed before job was started. Checked all fuses, No spark from plug wires when engine is cranked, also no spark from lead going to distributor when engine is cranked. Coil was not fooled with... MORE
