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Well- The "nailhead" was a type of 8 cylinder engine that powered 60's Buicks or thereabouts. My mechanic (Tom Telesco) caters to these along with other period types and all muscle cars as well. Does Model "A" and "T"'s, the works. Don't worry, if your buddy is into these he'll know what I'm talking about and will probably know Tom as well, assuming he's a Buick lister. Bugeye was also my first ride, before I moved to MGA's, then B's. We've both apparently gone "full circle", eh? :) Cap'n. Bob (Ret'd) '60 Frog PilotRob@... 16916... MORE


When I FIRST got into Spridgets, the car would not fire, so I drag out the trusty Bentley, and this is what I read........ Page 77 Locating a fault ("short" for Americans) Having determined, by testing as previously described, that the fault lies in the low-tension circuit, switch on the ignition and turn the crankshaft until the contact breaker points are fully opened. Refer to the wiring diagram and check the circuit with a voltmeter (0-20 volts) as follows. NOTE.-If the circuit is in order the reading on the voltmeter should be approximately 12 volts. (1) Battery to control... MORE


Come to think about it. You may be right. The starter will be looking for a ground someplace and if it turns over the engine is grounded someplace but maybe not good enough Doug 77 Michigan Doug Pletcher 16913... MORE


So it goes with the original 7/8" master cylinder, Bob Irwin. The later 3/4" type Mk ll set-up would provide more pressure with less effort. I, too was considering a switch over to a 3/4" bore, in consideration of the effort required after going over to discs. Then I considered the problem of maintaining directional control in "panic" stop situations as a consequence of "locking them up". Especially in view of the fact you never have to worry about exerting too much pressure in a "panic stop".....it's instinctively "automatic". And that's exactly "the problem", most especially with power brakes.... MORE


Mike Did you reconnect the engine ground strap. Won't work without it. Doug 77 Michigan Doug Pletcher 16904... MORE


I assume that I do have the original master cylinder. I don't know how to tell until I take it apart. Would replace it with the 3/4", but they seem to be hard to come by. Clearly two master cylinders would be better - do they fit in the space of the one original? Any ideas on where I could get one and where I can find instructions on how to install it. Thanks Bob rlirwn@... 16902... MORE


I have a 1960 Bugeye with original brakes on the back and disk brakes on the front. Last year I rebuilt the calipers, put on new pads, rotors, hoses, brake shoes, and rear brake cylinders. In short, I think I did everything I can except the master cylinder. The brakes are orders of magnitude better than when I started. However, I still have to push pretty hard to get the car to stop, and a "panic" stop would be difficult. Is this just the nature of the sprite brakes, or am I likely to get significant improvement by replacing... MORE


Ryan! What year car are you drivin'? 1275 engine? Tube from manifold go to flame arrester on timing chain cover? Cap'n. Bob (Ret'd) '60 Frog PilotRob@... 16868... MORE


Heh, heh!! :) Hi, Chuck... I'd love to have another Bug...what a great car! But, we've got an '85 Golf with the 8 valve GTI engine to run around in this winter and this, too, is a great little car. Would've loved to have had a Judson on my old Beetle, though. With a deep sump allowing another two quarts in there along with a little overdriving of the cooling fan, I think it would've worked pretty well, even on today's unleaded premium octanes. Cap'n. Bob (Ret'd) '60 Frog PilotRob@... 16852... MORE


Hello folks Putting in an oil cooler this weekend and was wondering were do you fit the oil cooler thermostat? 1971 MG Midget 1275 Thanks Jason "Jason Gross" 16828... MORE


Bill, I recently bought new hex-headed bolts for my 1275 to replace unsightly PO-installed stuff. (I hadn't even thought of looking for Allen-headed cap screws, but now like the idea). Anyway, they are definitely NOT metric but ARE American National Fine, so your 20 TPI bolt sample is correct. The 11mm bolt previously used is close, but no cigar. 11mm = .433", slightly less than 7/16" (.4375") BUT the 11mm thread pitch is 1.5mm (.059") or approx 17 TPI , i.e. a bit coarser than the correct 7/16" X 20 TPI (.05" pitch). All this to say that the... MORE


A little knowledge is a dangerious thing and I probably have about as little as anyone but this setup bothers me. The inner bearing is a tapered roller which I think as a little hard to install backwards, the outer is ball, which I think is incompatable. You can run tapered, I am, inner and outer, but the spacer needs shims to fit so the centers are able to be tourqed and have the correct tolerance so the bearings turn with out too much or too little play. Ball bearings on the other hand need the spacer and I... MORE


It is going to be 71* today, getting colder (56*) by Sunday, so I am going to replace the front bearings today. I have a Koyo inner roller bearing and a Beck Arnley ball type outer bearing. Neither one has any markings for "thrust" on it. My 1969 Chilton's doesn't even mention the front bearing replacement. The BMC shop manual, Bentley for the 1275 series cars, Clymer, and Glenns all mention the orientation of the word "thrust". The Haynes mentions that the word "thrust" may be on different sides, depending on the manufacturer. SO, with no more books to... MORE


I am fitting the late 1500cc twin circuit master cylinder to my 1275cc but I can not source a new push rod. Can any one tell me what the length of the push rod should be from say centre of pivot point to end of rod as I hope to manufacture one this weekend. "Peter Whittle" 16768... MORE


Guy, I've done that before also. It is easy. Only drawback is doing on a car that has 40 years of accumulated gunk in the tunnel. Mot a problem for me as by the time I get to that stage, there isn't any debris in there anymore. A plastic bag as a sleeve over the arm will make the rest of the job less messy. Gerard "gerardchateau" 16766... MORE


Hi I use IE your web site and pictures are great! the fading is a nice touch, and the wheels look good can I ask what they cost for 4? you have done some outstanding things on your car!! I am working on mine.....not to the specs you have, but I am a perfectionist,,,,,maybe someday, engine out bay detailed etc. "Wm Thompson" 16747... MORE


Hi all! I've recently bought a set of Minator wheels for my Bugeye. They came with "MG" stickers to put on the caps. The question is, of course - does anyone know where to get "Austin Healey" stickers for them? They'd have to be round, about 4cms in diameter. My website has a picture of the wheels if you'd like to see. It's at: http://www4.tpgi.com.au/jcadsl/bugeye.html Cheers, John "John Cunningham" 16719... MORE


Hi Chaps! Took the Midget out on the road for a test drive today after a year- long mechanical rebuild (rebore, pistons, etc ). All seems to work OK, although I really shouldn't have painted the exhaust manifold! Drove proudly around for a couple of miles getting used to the new single-box exhaust note with the bonnet (hood) removed to let the remainder of the paint burn off the manifold. Felt a bit less proud when a little lad said to his mum, 'Oh, what a poor car'. Anyway, one peculiarity I'd welcome some help on. Having checked the... MORE


Thanx, Paul- Engine oil it is. I heard from Kent Miller that early Metropolitans may have had 1200cc engines. Ours is a 1960 and is equipped with a "B" series high compression unit with the model designation 15F-H-xxxxx. Cap'n. Bob (Ret'd) '60 Frog PilotRob@... 16716... MORE


nooooooooooo, definitely B series - 1500cc A series motors are very few and far between. (Don't forget the A series/B series nomenclature is nothing to do with the MGA/MGB model names; purely the engine type - both these cars had B series engines) Cheers David "David Jacobs" 16698... MORE


Yes, David C.- Rings and other components haven't seated as yet most likely. Lean out the front carb a bit and keep going "gently into the night". Give it a couple of hundred miles and check it again. Cap'n. Bob (Ret'd) '60 Frog PilotRob@... 16707... MORE


Mets are not fitted with A-series engines. The blocks are larger, more like A's or B's, probably the same that was used in the A40's. I'm not sure what their exact designation is however. Gerard "gerardchateau" 16692... MORE


I can't imagine BMC going against type, so it's most likely supposed to be a 3 synchro 'B' series gearbox, as fitted in MGAs, MGBs and countless other saloons of the period. I (or rather Neil Cairns on http://www.mgcars.org.uk/mgccz/technic/codeseng.pdf ) can confirm that the 15F engine is the correct one for a USA spec Metropolitan. Regards David "David Jacobs" 16678... MORE


Much appreciated, Brad. Engine oil it is. But now we are not too sure it's an MGA gearbox at all though we know that its an the engine is a "15F-H-" model. You see, it powers an original 1960 Nash Metropolitan!! ("Beep, beep.... beep, beep....his horn went beep, beep, beep.......!") Anyone have a clue as to what gearbox was hooked up to the MGA Series "B" type that came factory installed in these cool little cars (not that anyone should, but......!:) Cap'n. Bob (Ret'd) '60 Frog PilotRob@... 16672... MORE


I have recently had the engine out to replace gearbox and whilst at it changed the cam shaft (1275cc) and the fan and the front brakes to extra large disks and callipers and the diff and propshaft and .................. (Another casualty of while it is in bits story). Obviously I have had the sump off this has been replaced with new gaskets and rubber front and back half moon seals.Previously we had no oil leaks now it don't exactly drip but dribble. I know I will have to take the sump off again but any ideas how to get... MORE