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Finally I can solve the problem.........after checking and rechecking.....t he vacuum hose has a puncture.......small as a sewing needle one......!!! r eplace it and end of problem !!! Tks. to Capn Bob, Red Midget, and Biff Jones Jorge =B473 RWA 1275 Buenos Aires - Argentina PS: Sunny and 100 degrees daily here....so MG and owner are happy ones crui sing roads !!!!! "Jorge Dimitrakis" 16660... MORE
No list that I know of, but what were you thinking of? I have a 60 Bugeye and the donner car for it was a 69 MG. My Bugeye got Engine (1275), Transmission (Ribcase), Differntal (3.90), Rear brakes (dual piston), Disc brakes, wheels & tires, Driveline, steering column, and steering rack. The Bugeye body is different, sidecurtains, windshield, interior mirror, doors would inter-change with a 63 but the 69 would be different in those areas. Bob, Portland, OR "Robert Webb" 16594... MORE
Thanks Bob, Thanks for the information. I was wondering if I would have to buy any additional parts to use the wire wheels off the 69 on my 63 using the front and rear wire hubs from 69 to do the change over. New hub change over kits are rather expensive. Don From: Robert Webb To: midgetsprite@yahoogroups.com Sent: Wednesday, November 20, 2002 5:36 PM Subject: [midgetsprite] Re: Parts swap list No list that I know of, but what were you thinking of? I have a 60 Bugeye and the donner car for it was a 69 MG. My Bugeye... MORE
I went to replace the plugs on my '76 midget this afternoon, and saw taht the last plug had a non-fouler on it. I know that you arent supposed to run these on more than half the cylinders, which leads me to beleive they are harmful to performance. I know my rings arent in top condition (and i cant afford to cahnge them at the moment) so there is surely oil burning. Should i put this non-fouler back on, or should i frequently change the last plug (the only one that seems to be getting fouled) If i put... MORE
Ryan, I would just keep using the non fouler. It's only in one cylinder and will save on some aggravating work changing the one plug all of the time and some $$ too. It probably robs a little performance but probably not too noticeable. I know of that hassle worth the front plug and Alternator. No need to remove it just loosen it up, remove the belt and swing it as far back as it will go. You can get a plug socket on a breaker bar in there and get it out Good luck Mike kna331@... 16575... MORE
Agreed, Ryanmill1 Best all around smallest sports car thus far for the buck is arguably the Miata, I guess. It does everything reasonably well and is of decent appearance. Would love to see a modernized Midget with the Cooper's 115hp engine hooked up to a 5 speed. Would definitely have to come in under US20k for a proper niche in the market I would think....sell a zillion of them if priced right. Cap'n. Bob (Ret'd) '60 Frog PilotRob@... 16565... MORE
Well, Jorge- Now I get the picture...so much for a hung up or sticking throttle cable I have never had an engine wherein I kept the emissions systems. These came (same as your's, most likely) on my PO'd '74 and I removed them entirely, replaced the oil and fuel caps with vented ones, cut the restrictors on the carbs, and vented the crankcase to atmosphere through K&N filters from valve cover and timing case flame arrestor. Of course, the air pump on the exhaust side went also along with the charcoal element cannister for fuel vapors and engine crankcase... MORE
If you have an origional water/automatic choke carb that has been converted to manual, you may still have a problem in the choke mechanism. I converted to manual choke as well, but still had a rich running condition. After investigating further, the fuel enrichment needle and seat were to blame. Bad seals and excessive wear allowed fuel into the carb at all times, not just on cold start up. I solved this problem by making a temporary gasket to mount the choke housing. This gasket only has the mounting holes. effectively blocking the gas from ebtering the carb through... MORE
I'm here in a suburb of Kansas City, if anyone knows of someone reputable. (i've grown to distrust a few garages around here, including one who tried to attach a puller to my rear wheel-bolts to change the bearings, ignoring the set screw) "ryanmill1" 16508... MORE
Bradster! Well, at least Bill has the manual choke instead of the dreaded autochoke...so at least he's ahead in that respect. Finding an ethically run garage where people know their stuff can be difficult. I sympathize with William's problem in this respect. Hopefully somebody out his way will take note and can help him out. Yeah - 1275's forever!! I hear that! :) Cap'n. Bob (Ret'd) '60 Frog PilotRob@... 16518... MORE
Mine is the only MG I've ever seen in person, let alone drive, so I'm unsure if mine functions normally. 76' Midget (1500) I can reach 30 or 40mph quick, but to get it beyond 40 takes time. To accelerate from 40 to 60mph can take a good 90seconds. Once at 60mph, I usually back off the accelerator, because the car is shaking so it feels as if it's going to fall apart. I realize its a small engine, but its also a small, light car. Is this situation normal? Ryan "ryanmill1" 16487... MORE
Is that a big deal? When i replaced the master cylinder, i just poured in a bottle of the $2 stuff Ryan "ryanmill1" 16486... MORE
Right on the money Bob! I want a daily driver that will be able to jump on the interstate and cruise flawlessly, or run down to the parts house to fetch parts for the truck, or whatever. I'm not interested in a racer right now. The last one I built was just too damn scary! For a driver that is... So I' interested mainly in low end and mid-range performance. The ZS on my 1500 is the 150 I think. The throat meaures 1 3/8". Which I believe is the 38 mm carb. It uses the smaller diaphragm in... MORE
Indeed the 4,00 rpm figure is a self imposed redline. I just can't stand listening to it scream like that in a daily driver. I feel like I'm torturing it if I go above 4,000 rpm. Yellow line on my Tach is at 5,500 and redline at 6,000. When it comes to using formlas to figure things like CFM at WOT I get lost easily. I have always been a Cadillac girl. Everything from '58 Fleetwods on up to 78 Sevilles. My favorite was the 74 Hearse! Anyway, I'm used to figuring for Quadrajets. 759-859 CFM! Depending on the... MORE
Bela- I know what you mean about winding up the engine for no good reason on a daily driver. Could not agree with you more. My current "build" is specifically "tailored" to to the low and mid-range and while it will rev. freely to 6.5K, there is just no reason to "go there", especially with the 5 spd. Shifting at 5,000 puts me in a good position "torque-wise" with the next higher gear in all cases. What size is the ZS on your 1500? 1.5" (38mm) or 1.75 (44mm)? As I would think the mfg. knew what he was... MORE
Guys.. Referring to recent past posts wherein octanes were mentioned with respect to Judson blowers and/or low pressure supercharging in general. The following is reprinted by permission of Jacques LeClainche of the spridget autox team list or owns and drives a racing BE. See: http://members.cox.net/jleclainche/ It is edited just a bit to shorten it up a tad. "Cap'n Bob: The best friend of my Bugeye's last owner helped build the now 982cc race engine. While he could not recall the exact CR, he told me it was definitely over 12.0-1 and possibly as much as 13.0-1 and that they... MORE
Cap'n. Bob (Ret'd) wrote "211 cubic feet per minute" Is this WOT at redline? No that was figured at 4000 rpm. Redline would be higher. Not having a 1500cc tach available I used his 4000 rpm (self imposed redline?) to compute the 211+ cubic feet per minute. 5000rpm = 264cfpm 5500rpm = 291cfpm 6000rpm = 317cfpm 6500rpm = 344cfpm Of course these figures assume 100% breathing. Real or actual cubic feet per minute flow figures would be less. Biff Jones '59 Bugeye 'Kermit' '61 Sprite 'Ole Gray' in "The Healey Book" '71 Midget 'Freebie' under restoration http://sprites2.homestead.com/ "Biff Jones"... MORE
I have been doing my homework trying to figure out what CFM my 1500 really needs. According to the formulas I found on this page (figuring my engine has 91.5 CID) I only need 106 cfm at 4,000 RPM. Does this sound right to everyone? Are my calculations wrong, or have I missed something? I found a great deal on a brand new 35mm Mikuni that I am hoping will solve all of my headaches. Is this carb too small? I bow to the wisdom of the board. Beladona 78 MG Midget 1500 Redlands, CA PS- As far as... MORE
About 6months ago i purchased a '76 Midget that had been sitting garaged for the better part of a year. Because of that period of time undriven and the age of the vehicle, I knew there would be work to do. (a great first car, and well worth the work) I've been slowly replacing about everything with any kind of rubber seals as it goes bad. (hyraulic cylinders, oil seals at the rear wheel bearings, etc) a few weeks ago, one of the rear brake cylinders went bad, so i replaced both sides. I went to bleed the system,... MORE
asuming the advance springs are anything like correct, something else must be restricting the motion of the points' rotating baseplate - the connecting wire maybe? With the cap off, can you move the baseplate by hand? Does yours still have vacuum advance as well? If so, that can be checked by the usual sucking on the pipe method! (I also have a 45D fitted to my 1380 A series - it came from Moss UK as a 'performance' item and as it is one of the later designs, it has the sliding points which are supposed to last better/wear... MORE
can anyone tell the difference between a 45d and a 25d4 distributor. Mine should have a 25d4 but is fitted with a 45d. everything is okay except that the spark doesn't advance with engine speed and I have set it to 8 degrees before top. The 45d fitted is almost new and the internal weights seem to be free enough. Thanks John "jcrsprite" 16435... MORE
HATE TO SELL BUT I HAVE TO MOVE!!! Email me for info and pics brutiss@... . Awesome 1970 mg midget, sorry ot sell, but have a new job and have to move. This little beauty was in storage for 20 years, and then taken out and brakes replaced, engine rebuilt, carbs rebuilt. The interior is immaculate. original, no rust inside, new carpet, new top, no rips inside, am/fm cassette. This interior is sweet. 1 previous owner. Absolutely no rips. Floor pans solid no rust. The car is painted in the original burnt orange (original paint. Absolutely no accidents, engine... MORE
Guys- I forget which site we were having a discussion last week on Judson blowers, so I am forwarding this message on octanes used in a high compression 948cc motor installed in a racing Bugeye owned by Jacques LeClainche who belongs to the Spridget Autox.Team List. This motor is most likely runnng between 13.0-14.0 to 1 as are a lot of racing Series "A"'s running "O-ringed" today. What makes the post interesting is that 30-32 degrees of total ignition advance (which is the normal total for a stock 8.8-1 1275 using normally available premium pump octanes) is still being... MORE
Hi, 13 years ago I paid =A3200 for a Mk3 with a dented bonnet; fibreglass wings , one of which was ripped open; broken windscreen; no MOT or tax; but the engine was good, as was the rest of the body. Another =A3250 got her on the road. The overall condition then was what would now be classified as 3/4 by the MGOC. Perhaps this info. will give you a guide as to what to pay now. Incidentally, Ava had a Heritage shell rebuild 10 years ago, and is still going strong! Margaret South Lincolnshire (UK) mmbrock88@... 16411... MORE
I never have understood dis-assemble to inspect thing, whether master cylinders, wheel cylinders or U-joints. When I take one apart, the seals are replace or it is. The books always say to take apart the u- joint and grease them, then put them back in. They gota be kidding. I'm cheap but that is ridiculous. Bob, Portland, OR "Robert Webb" 16407... MORE
