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could a faulty u-joint cause this? I just ran the car in 4th gear with the rear wheels lifted off the ground, and heard a slight knocking coming from under the car. I shut off the engine and crawled underneath, but didnt see anything wrong with either joint (for all i know) Ryan "ryanmill1" 22216... MORE


I need a good working starter for a 1275 that I think is blown. Need to start with a compression check. The one in it looksgood inside, but turns real slow on the bench. Anyone got a good used one for sale or loan?? Hate to invest in a new one if the engine is shot. Bill French frenchww@... 22224... MORE


Guy Weller writes, in part: "I sold my 1500.......Now I drive a 1340 "A" series." But there is no room in the above reality for a joke, Guy! :):) Cap'n. Bob '60 :{) PilotRob@... 22221... MORE


David, surprised that you havn't come across this stuff - its been around for years. Locktight make a range of these engineering adhesives. The common one is a blue fluid used extensively to stop nuts vibrating loose, but they also make several grades of adhesive for associated applications. One such is designed for fitting bearings and typical purpose would be to prevent an outer race turning in its housing (eg for wheel hubs) This is what I used for the 1500 thrust washers. I don't know if it made a difference but it was easier than pinning and I... MORE


That's right, Guy... This is the wrong thing to do. You were just lucky this time around but.... don't ever do this again, or the thrust bearings may very well outlast the rings. We can't have this or the 1500 motor might very well last as long as the indomitable, bullet-proof "A" Series. Cease and desist, immediately!! :):) Cap'n. Bob '60 :{) PilotRob@... 22211... MORE


Yes Rob, you are right they can be replaced "in situ". Drop the sump, remove the bearing cap and slide them round the crank, pushing the old one out - if it hasn't already dropped out. Don't think you would be able to pin them though - but then I never did when I had my 1500. I used to put a smear of locktight bearing goo on the back though. Guy "Guy Weller" 22202... MORE


man, you guys are incredible! two hours ago I didn't even know what thrust washers were, now I'm getting lessons in engine rebuilding. Is "crankshaft endfloat" the spec I'm supposed to look up? In the Haynes manual it's speced at .006 to .0014 .. does that sound right? Thanks again for all the help. George "chuibuddy" 22204... MORE


I hope you're joking.you ARE joking, right? Tell me I don't have to pull the engine to replace them. PLEASE? "chuibuddy" 22193... MORE


my 79 1500 is starting to have a funny vibration around 2-3k, which seems to be getting worse. I thought it might be the u-joints, but they seem tight with no play in them. It seems like it's coming from the engine, because if I coast at 30-40 mph with the engine off, there's no vibration. Any experts out there with some advice? "chuibuddy" 22185... MORE


Before you commit to pulling the engine check and make sure it is the thrust bearings. You can check the play in the crankshaft at the front pulley. I don't have my manual handy right now but they do give the max spec for crankshaft movement fore and aft. This measurement will tell you if that is the problem or send you looking elsewhere. Biff Jones '59 Bugeye 'Kermit' '61 Sprite 'Ole Gray' in "The Healey Book" '71 Midget 'Freebie' under restoration http://sprites2.homestead.com/ "Biff Jones" 22200... MORE


Well.... If it not something rubbing against something and it's not non-engine oriented.....? I'm a Series "A" kinda guy but, I have become familiar with this "symptom" through association with the 1500 types here on the list, and I think replacement of these can be done with the motor in the car and the sump dropped (hopefully?). What say you who "know" 1500's? Cap'n. Bob '60 :{) PilotRob@... 22195... MORE


a 1500 with vibration with the engine on, but no vibration at the same speed with the engine off? Crankshaft!! Those idiotic non-pinned thrust washers again? :( Cap'n. Bob '60 :{) PilotRob@... 22192... MORE


Hey.... If it's working for you, who am I to question? But it would run even better (most likely) with a little "through airflow". It's not that I think so....the factory thinks so 'cause that's the way THEY hooked up both the early and late "add on" crankcase evacuation (emissions) systems. The reason the original PCV valve "goes" and the engine begins to smoke is the wearing out of it's rubber diaphragm. It's much like the diaphragm used....well, never mind! :) When it becomes porus the effect is somewhat like your hooking up your PCV valve arrangement in reverse...the... MORE


Thrust washer(s). Ed "justbrits" 22191... MORE


Hi, Bill.... Ok....we don't know what sort of a rebuild job was done on the engine. Judging by the "tone" of the contents of your mail, probably not a very concientious one with respect to assembly anyway, it seems. That "scroll" rear engine area needs pretty close tolerancing as well as siliconing of the half moon gaskets back there or it will leak to one extent or another I am told, even on a new engine producing minimal blow-by. Speaking of which....what sort of shape is the engine in (mechanically speaking) in this respect? Compression, leakdown, etc.? "Blue" exhaust?... MORE


Hi, Max... Running without a thermo or blanking sleeve is not an option as the system requires some sort of restriction for proper flow, so you do need the "blanking sleeve" if you remove the thermostadt. www.MiniMania.com carries these. I think they're $15. Is there anyway you can remove the electric fan from the front of the radiator and relocate it to the rear as a puller rather than a pusher? Pullers are a little more effective as in this way they are not blocking or deflecting any airflow to the radiator, frontally, when the car is going over... MORE


the balancing machine consistes of a rotating spindle to which the wheel and tyre is fitted. The machine is run up to speed and a set of sensors then detect where the 'heavy' point is on the circumference. Lead(?) weights (the machine calculates how much) are added to the wheel rim opposite the heavy side to counteract this. The machine should also detect where the out-of-balance condition is across the width of the tyre, so sometimes weights will be on the inside, sometimes on the outside of the rim. To get an accurate assessment, the wheel needs to be... MORE


Bill B.!! What sort of a "ventilation" system are you currently running so as to allow crankcase pressure to escape? Cap'n. Bob '60 :{) PilotRob@... 22160... MORE


If you're talking about an A series engined Spridget, there is no rear main seal, just a scroll. This will leak with even a tiny positive pressure. If the crankcase ventilation is working properly, there should be a negative pressure in the crankcase, and it should try to suck the glove in. "Jeffrey Holmes" 22152... MORE


Thanks for the replies. In adition, I guess I should have added that I am runinng an electric fan, (yellow plastic) which is situated in front of the radiator. I also have a oil cooler, below the fan. I have no idea what the thermostadt temp-setting is. I should check. I car itself has been so well looked after before I had it I doubt it if the radiator is bunged. I may change to distilled water for coolant - now it is summer if you think this will help. I am inclined to think that the gauge is... MORE


That doesn't sound too bad. My 1275 on Duckhams 20/50 gives 60 psi at all revs while warming up but once it is thoroughly warmed it gives about 20 at tickover, 40 roundabout the 2.5krpm mark rising to 55-60 over 4k. Who knows how accurate the pressure gauges are. I wouldn't be surprised if their was 10psi variance between different gauges. If you do much high speed running then an oil cooler may be a good idea. when running on a new oil change to castrol classic 20w50 the oil pressure dros much lower to approx 20 at idle... MORE


Bill, I understand that, when working correctly, the crankcase ventilation system should actually create a negative pressure ( at least a pressure less than ambient ) - not simply prevent a pressure build up. Negative crank case pressure would actively reduce oil loss. Having said that, I am not sure how you would check it! If I stretch plastic food wrap over the oil filler hole with the engine running, it pulls it downwards indicating a suction here. I use a non vented oil filler cap so that suction in the valve cover also equals suction in the crankcase... MORE


Bob... Your pressure isn't bad at those numbers though it could be a little higher considering it's 20/50 you are dealing with. But not necessarily to worry. I agree with Andrew about the gauges. Anything your gauge tells you should be confirmed by substitution with another gauge....I use my mechanic's gauge to check mine and he's got two independent gauges. So, by checking mine (and others), he's always checking his for accuracy, as well!! :) A Series A engine with decent bearing AND decent oil pump clearances should idle at not less than 10psi (stinking hot, not just warm)... MORE


Hi, Bob in San Diego....bit warm out there today, aye?! When I was experimenting with a Judson blower on my PO'd '67 Sprite with stock 1275, I did experiment with adding an additional 2 quart tank, professionally fabricated and installed. This did slow the tendency to overheat in terms of rate of increase but eventually, it would get there anyway....it just got there more slowly once the boost truly came in. IOW, you could run longer in boosted operation before the temp. gauge began to climb towards never, never land. If there was someway to increase radiator cooling area... MORE


Max.... First of all, you have to confirm the water temp. gauge is reading accurately and not errorneously on the high side. Check your's with a thermometer or mechanic's gauge. Second, what range of thermostadt are you running? .......and is it "opening" at the correct temperature. The easiest way to check this would be by simple substitution. Thirdly, what is the outside air temperature at which these running temps are recorded? Usually, you run a 68c thermostadt when outside air temps. are expected to go to 20C+ and a 75c thermo. when expected to go much below 10c. For... MORE