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-30 degrees @ 1000 rpm sounds like way too much. That may be why it spits through the carbs when you open the throttle. Try 10 degrees @ 1000 rpm. Sooty black plugs is no good. Try resetting the timing first. You may need a new set of plugs to evaluate the mixture as it would take a long time to burn the soot off the present ones. Sounds like you set the carbs about right, and lifting the pistons sllightly is a good way to start, but the proof is in the driving. It should respond with no... MORE
I am in the process of putting a thermostat in the 1275 in the 65 Sprite. It was overheating, so I changed radiators. It got better, but still would climb to 190* when out on the road, not to bad, but I wanted a little cooler. I have a 160* stat to put in it, once I pulled the housing, I noticed it didn't have anything. It is correct that it will cool better WITH a thermostat than without, right?? I shouldn't be to surprised, when I went to change the oil, there was no filter in the canister... MORE
Pixel- Hey.....Happy Birthday, man! And I owe you a 6 pack!! 1.401" intake valves were the largest offered by the factory for 1275 Cooper "S" types! 1.48" intake valves were strictly "aftermarket" types according to Doug at MiniCity. Interesting note: Doug states the larger exhaust valves (1.215?) used in "later" heads did not produce any more power than the smaller exhaust valves originally used and the the latest heads went back to the smaller exhaust valves of the original heads, accordingly. So....check is in the mail!! Enjoy! :) Cap'n. Bob '60 :{) PilotRob@... 14342... MORE
Bill- For correct basic setting of timing, visit: www.teglerizer.com and click distributor advance curves. Identify your distributor by serial number (advance "curve") and set accordingly. as a basic setting. Oh, yeah....adjust the valves first. What heat range spark plugs are you running? NGK BPR6ES? Sooty black indicates a rich mixture or too cold a plug or very weak spark. Bring spark plug gap down to .028 assuming you are running electronic. Start there. When you've got it running smoothly, move back up. For now, let's make firing a little easier by reducing the gap a bit. If you are... MORE
Do you want to keep the shock absorber intact? if not, the easiest thing might be to cut through it in line with the siezed bolt, or heat it up with the torch; if you do want to keep it, you'll have to drill out the bolt. If the engine is in place, this might be easier done from below where the bolt comes through the threaded mounting, You will need to remove the coil spring and swing the wishbone arm down to get access (the usual warnings about releasing the spring tension apply here) Regards David PS one... MORE
Can you grip the shock with a gear puller with the puller screw bearing on the broken bolt? "tloutrec" 14313... MORE
Hi All, Thanks to those who answered my question on the best engine oil to use, now using 15W/50 mineral oil (Valvolene). Anyway, I now have another concern, I changed the engine oil from the running in oil to standard stuf after 300 miles, I have now just changed the oil again after completing the running in (1000 miles), all seems OK oil presure good, no oil being burnt. But, I noted the residual oil in the bottom of the oil filter bowl, was contaminated with very fine metal particals, if it wasnt bright and sunny it probably would... MORE
1974 MG Midget For Sale Purchased a boat, so MG must go. Vehicle is in very good shape. Chrome bumpers, rounded back wheel wells, new convertible top, 2 new wire wheels, 2 new tires, new master brake cylinder, engine and trany overhauled a few years ago. Runs excellent, body and interior in good condition, no rust, 84,xxx miles. Yellow in color, stereo with amp, roll bar. A great car!! Have digital pictures I can send, just email me. Priced at $2,950 Contact: Kevin Kautzman Email: rakautzman@... Tel: 817-514-6539 Location: Ft. Worth Texas USA Dated: 16/08/2002 "Ian & Cathy" 14280... MORE
Bob- Sounds reasonable to me, though I do not have a PCV system or crankcase pressurization problem with the double vent "open" system I currently run in my basically Cooper "S" spec. 1293 application. Still, I like your idea. Cap'n. Bob '60 :{) PilotRob@... 14270... MORE
Ok, Bradster.... Bad or incorrect valve, then. As Gerard and others have explained, PCV valves are a good thing, helping to prevent oil leaks by "evacuating" crankcase pressure when used with appropriate "filtered" oil cap. You gonna get an original in it's place, Brad, or just "vent"? 'Cause if you're just gonna vent, in my experience you'll need more than one "opening" to prevent "pressurizing" the crankcase when you put your foot in it. And a couple of K&N crankcase filters as the engine will breath "both ways" in this event and you won't wanna "draw" unfiltered air..... Cap'n.... MORE
I'd disagree with you here, Cap'n - the high lift rockers don't actually alter the cam timing at all. It's just that at a given point on the ramp, the valve will be open more. In effect, they get to the same valve lift sooner, so I see where you're coming from. Yours pedantically David PS it's possible to lessen the loading on the valve gear a little by using slightly softer valve springs - the increased leverage of the longer rocker arms means the springs are more effective in controlling everything. PPS that reminds me - don't forget... MORE
Hi, George- Mainly for high rpm and do not work with all cams on all engines to the same extent but can also "make up" (question of extent, here) for small valves wherein port sizes are kept small for "rapid velocities" at lower rpm's. They get the valves open a little sooner, keep them open a little longer and close them a little later....almost like "moving up a notch" on the cam. See Vizard's section on these in his great book! Depending on ramp rise of cam, a little harder on the valve train components, all other considerations being... MORE
Thanks for the warm welcome! The car was wired negative earth after all. It does however have a Positive earth warning sticker under the hood. Was this a normal feature? The DPO (LOL!) did infact butcher the wiring harness. Luckily it is after the connector. I found a couple of great people her in San Bernardino California who dismantle MG's (just the really bad ones) and sell the parts on Ebay. They were quite helpful. I have a new ignition switch, but am still looking for a turnsignal/wiper switch. It's way beyond repair. I tried to get it started... MORE
Does anyone in the UK have a spare alternator bracket for a 1275 that they would sell or swap. I need one asap. Many thanks. Jeremy "Jeremy Cogman" 14218... MORE
Jeremy, Gerard, et al I've used some loctite "stud and bearing fit" today and the fit is vastly improved. Some slight movement, but none on the outer race. Both sides were affected - I might try different bearings ( the new ones I had were from Moss) in the medium term or hubs if that does not work. I am assuming that the loctite stuff will be strong enough to last for a while though. Chris "howes" 14209... MORE
I am sorry to keep bothering the list with car related questions, it is so out of character for me, BUT......... When I first started on the 65 Sprite, when I would try and start it, the starter would sometimes drop out early (i.e. turn for a half second, and then let go of the engine and free spin). I changed starters and Martha ran the first one into a shop. They say it is fine. I have another starter on the car and it does the same thing, AND, it also has a dead spot on the armature.... MORE
Here is a generic starter answer.... spinning is only half the process, it must engage the teeth on the fly wheel and hold it there long enough to start the engine. If the shop only hooked it up and watched it spin... I wouldn't take that as an indication that it is working. You say you have a stack of starters to try? I take it these are all used starters? Several of these may indeed be bad... my starter experience has been that most starters fail in the "engaging the flywheel" portion, long before they stop spinning. -Brett... MORE
George, I've got a set with just roller tips, not the type with the main bush replaced with rollers (for the price, I suspect Minimania's are the same). Make sure the kit contains a new shaft (or get one if it doesn't) as the old one will probably be as worn as the old rocker bushes. If you do get the full roller type, it's recommended that the oil feed to the rockers is restricted slightly compared with plain bush types, and it must be clean as any bits in the oil will wreck roller bearings in no time... MORE
Can anyone share their experience with high lift roller rockers? I need to replace the stock ones as the bushings are shot, and Minimania UK is running a special on these for 140 pounds. (minimania US is selling them for $380!) TIA George 63 Sprite 1400cc stage 2 head 544 cam 9.75:1CR 45DCOE "george07876" 14200... MORE
Not dim questions at all, we are all happy to help. The bearing should be flush with the face of the hub (I think, that's always the way I've done it anyway, I'm not sure it will go in any further). J. "Jeremy Cogman" 14196... MORE
Gerard Thanks mate. I will try and drift the bearing further into the hub before retrying - and use a locking adhesive if I can get some. Sorry to ask dim questions all the time - I am suffering from having only run company cars (i.e someone else maintains them!). Still, it is fun learning. By the way, I re-designed the rear undercarriage to accept a later style radius arm box. Only a bit of cutting and grinding and it does seem to have strenghthened the whole area. Rear axle etc. is all fitted now (well, when I get... MORE
I have the 65 going ok, still needs shocks and another starter the worst. But when I am driving it at about 60 -65, I get great billowing clouds of smoke at intermittent times. Not all the time, but enough to make me wonder WTF?? I know I am doing my part to control the West Nile virus, but damn!! 1275 with a hose running from the front timing cover can to the elbow on the intake for PCV. I am assuming I am sucking up a stream of oil into the intake, but isn't this how everyone else... MORE
Chris, Ditto on Jeremy's advice. Sounds like the bearing is loose in the hub. If the outer race can work free, the bearing wonlt be doing it's job. Gerard "gerardchateau" 14185... MORE
Yes I have experienced this before on a hub. Basically the bearing is not a tight fit in the hub. Whether this is caused by very slightly undersized bearings or damage caused to the hub at some time in it's history by pressing in a bearing slightly skew I don't know. It's probably OK, though if it's loose enough the bearing may starting turning in the hub which will just make the situation worse. I solved this problem by acquiring another hub (they are pretty cheap second hand) but in the shorter term I might be tempted to remove... MORE
David, are you talking about the o-ring that goes between the hub and the halfshaft flange or the lip oil seal that goes in the hub inboard of the bearing. jeremy.cogman@... 14177... MORE
