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Ryan, "Soft" engine mount? From your description this is unlikely, but it's fairly easy to check by rocking the engine. It's good to get the simple/inexpensive things checked off one by one rather than use the shotgun approach. Tony P. "anthony pooley" 22118... MORE
I would try and isolate the sound a bit more, best done by driving. When you say the vibration occurs above 2500rpm, is that the same for all gears, or is it realy related to road speed? In other words, does it relate to engine speed, as you suggest, or to road speed? Get up to "vibrating speed" and try shifting into neutral. If the noise continues then it is more likely connected with the transmission or running gear than the engine. Can you tell if it is a high speed vibration (prop shft?) or a lower speed related... MORE
David, the MC just kept leaking down, ever sooooo slowly but more than enough to tell that it was going somewhere. I noticed it around the base and on the firewall behind it. I was talking to the mechanic that has the car right now (like I said, I'm no brake man) and he had just taken the MC apart. Somewhere in it's previous life, the thing had been re-sleeved so, he thought that the rebuild kit should fix the problem. I went ahead and bought the stainless brake lines. I hope that helps. The previous owner kept great... MORE
Ryan.... MAYBE..... you've got something that should have clearance from something, that hasn't got clearance from something. Could it be engine to "frame", exhaust to body (even though it sounds/feels like it is coming from the pax side), tranmission to body, etc.??? Cap'n. Bob '60 :{) PilotRob@... 22114... MORE
Sounds like an invitation to go further out on the limb. I agree about the rubber hoses, and you mention that you had just replaced all of the clutch componenets, and not knowing what the car is, I will assume that it isn't a bugeye(dual master cylinder). There is a rubber valve in some brake master cylinders that holds pressure to the drum brakes. If this was deteriorating, it could keep pressure on the brake line. With it being old, and needing rebuilt, other than the brakes being serriously over tightened, I think it would be in the master... MORE
Yes, Bob!!! You can make more backfiring noise by further leaning out the mixture beyond what it "should be", but I wouldn't recommend it!! :):) Many years ago, we used to "blast out" a muffler to get more of this, as well. "Backing-off" exhaust sounds were considered mandatory if you wanted to be considered "cool". Of course, the muffler wears out in this respect over time and use but....we didn't wanna wait! The car had to sound "cool"....today......NOW!! Find a long hill and shut off the ignition while allowing the car to go down the hill while remaining in... MORE
Yes, Bob!!! You can make more backfiring noise by further leaning out the mixture beyond what it "should be", but I wouldn't recommend it!! :):) Many years ago, we used to "blast out" a muffler to get more of this, as well. "Backing-off" exhaust sounds were considered mandatory if you wanted to be considered "cool". Of course, the muffler wears out in this respect over time and use but....we didn't wanna wait! The car had to sound "cool"....today......NOW!! Find a long hill and shut off the ignition while allowing the car to go down the hill while remaining in... MORE
There are no iso-cyanides in any paint. Urethane paints (or paint additives) do contain isocyanate, which, while potentially toxic, isn't the stuff of gas chambers. All decent paints will contain some isocyanate, so the best thing would be to do all the prep work yourself, and have a professional do the actual spraying. That said, certainly many, many people have sprayed a few cars with urethane paint and survived to tell the story. If you just absolutely have to paint the car yourself, and are unwilling to risk any exposure to urethane chemistry, you could use acrylic lacquer. Also... MORE
Chaps.... Even with everything absolutely "spot-on" you are going to get a bit of this with a hot engine after a run so handling this through e-mail without actually hearing it (in terms of extent) and "being there" IS a bit difficult. My bet is that you would get less of this with an HIF (temperature compensated) carb., but this is just an educated (not very!) guess. I've always had at least a bit of this with every "A" or "B" series engine I've ever run, stock or "tuned", and more of it after a "run" wherein the engine... MORE
Or the wrong firing order. If you pull the plug leads, it is ridiculously easy to do, that is why I marked all my plug caps with a small filed mark. (No. of marks matches cylinder no.) "Roger Stinson" 22094... MORE
G'day guys Isn't a bit of healthy debate a great thing? The usual reason for sloppy wheels, even after new ball bearing races have been fitted, is wear in the hub where the outer part of both bearings seat. Even a few thousandths of an inch of wear (due to previous bearings being loose, or the outer ring slipping) will mean that the balls aren't correctly seating on the radial face of the outer race - they are being held apart by the cast iron inner spacer. As little as .005" can make the difference between a loose wheel... MORE
G'day Jack The mechanic's advice is correct. Have the master cylinder re-sleeved in stainless steel. I have no idea what that costs on your side of the pond, but over here is is about $120 AUD = $75 USD. Then you can fit the kit with confidence, and have no more problems for 30,000 miles or more. And even then, you will just need a new kit, as the stainless steel will not rust, and being slightly harder than the rubber seals, it will not have worn. Don't waste your money on a new master cylinder. But after all,... MORE
"backfiring" Hi, Steve.... Not an uncommon occurrence at all my friend. With a new stock exhaust system you don't even hear this, unless the engine is really coming off a long high rpm blast down the highway and the engine is really hot and even then, it is so muffled you probably wouldn't hear it with a new stock system. With headers and/or a free-flow or "sport" exhaust system, you'll always here it to some extent after a long, hard run and truly warm engine. This will be probably more so with the strictly mechanical advance 23D Cooper "S"... MORE
David, Don't bother pulling the rubber boot, if everything is OK you have to replace it. If it not you have a messy part to play with! Simply leave the car on the ground and have someone rotate the steering wheel from side to side (about 9 to 12 ins). Get hold of the joint with your fingertips, you can feel for worn steering rack joints through the rubber boot of the steering rack with a worn rack producing a 'click' or 'jerk' near the joint. You will feel play if it is worn. The whole joint will seperate... MORE
G'day all The matter of Timken (or any other brand) of tapered roller bearing, vs the original ball bearing races, seems to have raised it's head again. For some strange reason, tapered roller bearings seem to have been blessed with the "superior" tag. Well, in some ways, they are. But in some ways they are not. Now it took a bearing technician about 10 minutes and a few drawings to explain the "effective axle load bearing width" or some such thing, and why tapered rollers can be inferior to angular contact ball bearings. So I will not try to... MORE
Colin, I don't know if this is true in this case, but my understanding is that roller bearings, with their greater surface area of contact, are designed for applicatuions with a higher radial loading. This would seem to me to be like the wheel hub bearing where they carry the weight of the car. OTOH, at the inner end of the half shaft, in the differential cage, there will be relatively less radial load so a ball bearing will be fine, and have less frictional resistance. Having said that, I would presume that the ball bearings are OK (as... MORE
David, On one occasion, having not had replies to a series of e-mails, I rang to complain. the answer I got was: "Oh, sorry, we never look at the e-mails. Next time could you telephone to advise us that you are sending one so that we know to look out for it" That was said in all seriousness by their Customer Services section!!! Truely Amazing!!! Guy "Guy Weller" 22051... MORE
Dear MG folk, Since the beaing question seemed to generate some conversation, here is what I have on getting some stouter bearings for the Midget front hubs. The Timken numbers for the front tapered bearings and races are: 07097 05066 05185 07204 You will need two of each of these. You will use the standard grease seal; for reference, the Carquest part number is 471192. Winners Circle in Cleveland is a good source and they are familiar with the upgrade. My set was about $90 for the whole thing. Rob C '75 Midget, McGee robbiesg@... 22044... MORE
The 3/4" dual master cylinders come up on ebay every couple of months or so, But they will need rebuilt or sleeved. If you have one now, you could just have it resleeved. The earlier cars used a 7/8" dual master cylinder and are interchangeable. The 7/8" was for drum brakes and the 3/4" was for disc. In going to a 7/8", the petal pressure will be harder. What seems to be the problem with your existing master cylinder/brake system? Bob, Troutdale, OR "Robert Webb" 22043... MORE
Hi all. Among other problems, I have been battling a cutting out problem on my stock '79 Midget 1500. Now after many test starts in the driveway it seems that I now have a getting progressivly worse starting problem: The engine cranks over for what seems to be too long with no sign of firing, then when it tries to fire the enging almost stops dead, like it almost jambs up then cranks again until the same happens. Only does this for 10-15 revolutions of the engine then solonid starts clicking. On just recharged battery.All electrical still operates but... MORE
Mike.... When there is a "feeling" the engine is firing "against" the starter, this is usually a sign of mis-set timing....usually too far advanced. Sure it could be something else, but this is immediately what first comes to mind. Cap'n. Bob '60 :{) PilotRob@... 22041... MORE
Does anyone have an idea where I might locate a master cylinder for a 63 Sprite? No luck with Moss or Victoria British. I ordered the rebuild kit but, I'm not sure that it's going to solve the problem. Is it possible to use the master cylinder from an older car? There seems to be plenty of those around. Thanks "austinbud2002" 22032... MORE
Dear Dave, I just installed a set of Timken rollers in my '75 using '79 hubs from a donor car. Had no difficulty whatsoever and they roll very well. Like you I was advised not to use the distance piece. The distance piece can be used with this setup but is requires some special tools/techniques and is generally only used by racers. If you don't want to give up on better bearings I can foward the Timken numbers. Rob C '75 Midget, McGee robbiesg@... 22026... MORE
There is a company in Kentucky called Rivergate ( http://www.rivergate5speed.com ) that sells a Datsun B210 5-speed transmission conversion kit for midgets. I bought one from these guys and they *really* know what they are doing. I highly recommend you contact these guys and ask them about an engine conversion. If anyone can help you, they can. I have the 5-speed in my 73 Midget and it is WONDERFUL! These vuys race Midgets for a living so they know them inside-out. Good luck! -Tom "tmruwart" 22015... MORE
Hi Jim Lundgren.... Hope you get your Midget back soon with rebuilt engine running beautifully! Welcome aboard....a motorhome is OK.... just as long as you don't live "in a van down by the river"! :):) Cap'n. Bob '60 :{) PilotRob@... 22010... MORE
