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Give us a clue! How much do you know already, eg do you know if it is a 948, 1098 or 1275? I'm guessing it is not a 1500. Geri 67 Sprite Mk IV. "G & J Swann-Price" 12343... MORE
Gerard, You don't say what engine you have, what state of tune it is in or what speed you wish to cruise at. So for what it is worth I found that my standard 1275 with an LCB would pull 70 mph on most motorway gradients with a 3.7, which on standard tyres gives about 17.5 mph/1000 rpm, ie 4,000 at 70. Geri, 67 Sprite Mk IV "G & J Swann-Price" 12342... MORE
John, I assume you can hear the starter solenoid click when you try to crank the engine? (if you have the mechanical switch rather than a solenoid, ignore that first bit!) If so, sounds like you have a high resistance (ie poor) connection in the high ampage circuit to the starter. Do the lights go out (or the gauges die) when you try to crank the starter? If so clean up the battery terminals. NB always disconnect the ground side of the battery first and leave disconnected whilst messing with any of the large supply connections. Whilst the battery... MORE
Bill, Still probably easier to go down the scrappy and get a spin-on from a newer A-series eg Metro,Ital etc. The Moss conversion still relies on a dodgy seal into the original part. Cost 8 6 years ago and no leaks and no regrets. This of course depends on living in a part of the world where they have Metros Hutch 67 Mk4 Sprite - Durham "Stuart Hutchinson" 12272... MORE
Oops, sorry, too quick on the send key. Yes, if oil flow from the engine to the filter is stopped, there will be no oil to the engine internals. What's the deal with these $50 spin on adapters anyway? I've been changing cartridge filters in Spridgets for 40 years, and they aren't a big deal, and they don't leak it you remember: 1) remove the old gasket before you install a new one, 2) don't overtighten and warp the case. But then I still use felt filters too, so maybe I'm wacky... "tloutrec" 12274... MORE
I used a set of "BF" tm. channel lock pliers to twist and remove the sleeve that the dizzy bolts to. I then turned the shaft two sets of teeth, and it now will run!!! The vacuum advance brass line is bumping the back of the genny, but IT RUNS!!! I will turn it back one tooth tomorrow, it is getting dark and the mosquitoes are getting bold, BUT IT RUNS!!!! Brad Brad Fornal 12294... MORE
I have decided that the reason the 65 Sprite won't fire is because the dizzy gear is off a couple of teeth. I have #1 at TDC, with #4 intake starting to open and exhaust just closed. In that position, the rotor is pointing at #4 rather than #1 piston. The slot is in an almost vertical position rather than close to horizontal. I have the dizzy out, and the sleeve wont come out. I can get it to spin if I tap it with a punch, but I cant get it to come out. Is it safe to... MORE
Bill, Too far for you and not exactly what you're looking for, but if anyone else is looking, I have a '68 Sprite that is a nut and bolt restoration I've been working on since around '97. This car was completely rust free and I stripped it to bare metal inside and out and painted it with the best catalyzed paints. Too many new parts to list but the car is currently a rolling chassis with a freshly built 1275 with all new timing components and a Kent MD266, new pistons, etc. The drivetrain is ready to be dropped... MORE
I've lost track, are we talking 1500. In the Vizard a-series book he notes that the seat is replaceable too. "Jeremy Cogman" 12267... MORE
Very interesting point! I will take note, if only I could get my A-series to run at over 40psi ! Guy "Guy Weller" 12254... MORE
Chris Probly 12V / 586 etc. It's a 1275 Midget engine, built August '71 to December '72 for the UK market - they were built from no. 101 to 6217. Praise be to the Lord Horler. Oh and before you ask - black! HTH Steve Clark Southampton UK "Steve Clark" 12253... MORE
I've recently acquired a spare engine for my frogeye and I'd like to know what it is from. The engine number is 12V7586F/H 1966. Any information gratefully received. Chris 1959 Frogeye Stockport cg.warren@... 12251... MORE
Check out this car. A 1960 prototype up for auction. http://www.forbes.com/technology/2002/06/10/0610feat_2.html Rod S '64 HAN8 "roderickdsage" 12234... MORE
bE VERY CAREFUL MESSING WITH THE PRESSURE RELIEF VALVES IN THE OIL PUMPS. They are there to protect the weakest link, the oil filter. I used to work for Purolator and saw many a blown filter. The pump, after all, is a constant VOLUME pump driven by all 50-75 hp of the engine. On cold mornings, when the viscosity of the oil is like tar, it will stii try to pump the same volume of oil thru the oil passages. Since it can not flow, the pressure builds up. The filter can is only a rolled seam, capable of... MORE
I don't think that bumping up the pressure will do any harm, as all you are messing with is the pressure at which the valve allows oil to by-pass the route to the bearings. The pump itself will not push any more oil around, but maybe more of the oil that is circulated will go via the bearings if less is allowed to by-pass. Within reason, oil pressure itself is not important, but the job the oil does at conveying heat away from the bearings is critical. Of course very low pressure would indicate either a worn pump, poorly... MORE
Doug- I think you are correct in quoting oil "normally" acceptable oil pressures for the 1500 engine....as a matter of fact, I know you are correct. As I understand it, the weak point of a 1500 unit is the bottom end. Assuming this is true, bumping up oil pressure by a conservative 10psi sounds like a wise and sound move. Usually, engine manufacturer's know what they are doing but no, I do not see where bumping up an additional 10 lbs will hurt anything. It will cost you a little power but expect this loss to be in the... MORE
Cap'n. Bob Thanks for the input Let me add a few things. It is my understanding 45-50 lbs is normal for a 1500 engine (somebody correct me is I am wrong) that is what I am getting without shimming the valve. Also idle pressure is 30 that is good. This engine has all new bearings and new relief valve in fact everything is new except the oil pump. So I don't think it's clearances I think it's just the design of the engine. Bumping up the pressure should not hurt the engine don't you think. Next oil change I... MORE
Good, Doug- No problem. Keep it exactly the way it is, then and "go with it". Chances are it is not a weak (worn) pump then, but "clearances". Doesn't matter.... it is working for you and that's what counts!! Just understand this method of "creating" oil pressure does not represent the engine's "true" situation in this respect (most likely). Actually, the best thing to do would be to obtain a "new" oil pressure reliefe valve set-up and install same and see what the "real" pressure really is, assuming the gauge has been checked for accuracy and it's reading IS... MORE
Asking the stupid questions first.. fuses check ok? connections not green or are they clean.. OK now on to more less stupid points.. (the stupid would be from my end..not yours..) Horn problems usually revolve around the bullet/spring that makes the connection to the ring.. mine broke/melted.. I just re-routed the wires to a switch on the dash.. for me it was easy, heater removed so I had two spare slots on the dash. wipers.. have 1.8 part spridets..both 71's so not sure if the wipers are same.. my driver is a 74... could check to make sure tomorrow,... MORE
Jeremy Lots of ghost stories about slave problems. I was trying to figure out how the slave could be leaking. Overthrow is one idea! However the final problem was traced to a split pipe which was running down the inside of the pipe to the slave and collecting on the bottom of the slave LOOKING like it WAS the slave !! It wasn't so I had a new pipe made up, cleaned everything and bleed the system which was a nightmare. As you say the nipple is so tight up against the chassis so I had the starter out,... MORE
Cap'n. Bob I understand what you are saying but I just came back from a 30 mile ride and the oil pressure is staying at 55 to 60. It does not drop back to 45 to 50 as you and I thought. But at next oil change I think I will change the oil pump because in my infinite wisdom when I rebuilt the engine I did not change it although I changed everything else. am going to a classic car show today it's about 40 miles away and it 80+ degrees. Will see if oil pressure maintains 55... MORE
Mike What do you mean by slave overthrow, the piston has gone too far and won't come back? Yes one of the things I hate about the Toyota conversion ( I have one too) is the slave bolted on from inside. I've wondered about changing that but the clearance with the chassis leg is so tight. Next time I've got it out I might experiment with some countersunk machine screws from outside. Hope it's gone well, looking forward to hearing of your success. Jeremy "Jeremy Cogman" 12124... MORE
HI folks would like some thoughts on this. It is my ubderstanding that the oil pressure relief valve will operate under excessive oil pressure and allow some bypass to keep oil pressure in check. Is that correct. With that in mind with starting oil pressure at 60 lbs and after warm up oil pressure is 45lbs if relief spring pressure is increased than startup pressure should be higher but after warm up pressure should still be 45lbs because the valve is now closed. Does that makes sense. Well I decieded to experiment I shimmed the relief valve and increased... MORE
Doug- Get your oil really hot and it probably will get back to 45lbs.!! When you re-shim the valve you are adjusting it totally and not at "one end" of the spectrum, I have been told. Other listers more mechanically educated will tell me if I have been advised incorrectly. I do not know about 1500's but, on Series "A" motors, oil pressure at the low end of "normal" can also (and often is) be a sign of a worn oil pump, and not necessarily worn bearings. And, I cannot see why this would be any different for any... MORE
Something I have always wondered about oil coolers. When a person drains their oil and they have oil cooler, won't a good amount of oil stay trapped in the cooler and wouldn't slug collect in there especially if the cooler isn't perfectly horizontal and all lines run downhill. Or does it make sense to disconnect and flush the cooler at every oil change. Also, I seem to remember in JC Whitney's years ago, that they were selling an oil filter which used replaceable rolls of toilet paper. Rod S '64 HAN8 "roderickdsage" 12074... MORE
