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Bill, The pistons MUST rise and fall freely! Anything else you do before you correct that is a waste of time. Two typical causes: 1. The bell is slightly torques or off center. 2. Non centered jet. This will cause the needle to bind up. Remedy for #1- loosen the hold down screws and remove bell and piston. Throughly wipe them both free of any debris, dirt etc. Make sure there is nothing lodged in the piston grooves. Reassemble the piston into the bell and push /pull, listening for any scraping/ abrasive sounds. you should only hear air whistling... MORE
The pistons must be able to move up and completely down freely, or the carbs will never work. Hmmm. Corrosion? Take off the covers and look. Bent needles? Someone work on them with a large hammer? If you can get them fixed, AUD 136 should work fine on a 1275, I think. On the other hand, if you shop around, you can probably buy a shiny new pair for just over $300. Considering the cost of two good rebuild kits, (and maybe shafts and bodies rebushed)all of which may not solve the problem...Or a Webber downdraft conversion kit for... MORE
And when you take off the condenser terminal....remember it, and the terminal for the points both sit over the little plastic thingy to isolate them inside the distributor. I found the reason for my poor starting....even though the car ran fine after it did get going... and that was a loose/floppy float chamber on the bulkhead side of the carburrator....once tightened the car started perfectly every time... Alas now ive blown the head gasket!!! so back to the drawing board... The head has come off tonight... reassembly tomorrow. trials and tribulations Night all eugene "EUGENE BONNER" 8768... MORE
Jim, the only white with brown strip that I see used anywhere is on a UK model 1275 positive earth. It is for the oil filter switch to ground. "Brent Wolf" 8778... MORE
Are you asking about motor flush? I've ised it several times with no problems. I don't know how it could clog anything. If you think you have "chunks" in your engine you better flush them out! Besides the oil filter, you have a screen in the sump that would prevent any large pieces from being sucked up anyway. Gerard "gerardchateau" 8767... MORE
Get your hands on a Pegasus racing catalog and check out the remote mount Canton/Mecca filters. There not terrible expensive and after seeing what it cost to rebuild an engine these days, I think a worthwhile investment. The filters are easily replaceable without making a huge mess and good for much more than 3000 miles too. May not be for everyone though. Gerard "gerardchateau" 8766... MORE
Listers, I am currently restoring a 65 MG Midget that had been sitting outside for over 12 years. I have been repairing the squirrel chewed wiring in the engine bay and have come across a white wire with a brown stripe exiting the harness with the generator and ignition wires. I have looked at several schematics in different manuals and none of them indicate what this wire does. Does anyone have a guess as to where it goes? Thanks! Jim Davis 1974 TR6 1965 MG Midget *** The information in this e-mail is confidential and intended solely for the... MORE
Jeffrey, Well, given recent explanations and interpretations of darkened oil, it seems there are other possibilities and causes. My train of thought was that oil _rapidily_ turning dark could be a result of mixing with the sludge in the engine. I guess the motor flush would still be a good idea to see if post flush, the problem persisted. Gerard "gerardchateau" 8745... MORE
ok, thanks for all the help & advice..one last question(for now...haha!), what year, make model datsun(or other make trans. bolts up to the 1098 engine? "babyblumg" 8743... MORE
Of course, great gobs of black tarry goop in the sump is a bad idea, but I had understood the query was about dark colored oil, and that may be something quite different. As Peter C. points out, some brands of oil darken more quickly than others, although I don't completely buy the Castrol explanation. Some oils are more quickly oxidized and darken from that alone. The synthetics darken less, not because they suspend carbon less well, but because they are more oxidation resistant. Nonetheless, carbon suspended in the oil is the major cause of dark oil, and this... MORE
Well, I'm going to disagree with you (yes, again). If you read my earlier posts on this topic, I mentioned having opened about 4 or 5 1275's and I am currently even rebuilding a Datsun 210 engine, which is basically a metric British engine. I digress... anyway, the couple engines I opened that had the "goo" in them had planty of scratches and scarred bearings, even though one of them had already been rebuilt at least once. The 210 Datsun (which is as near a bulletproof engine as you can get) also had the 'goo'. Becuase the metallurgy in... MORE
You ask a question which has no *correct* answers. In my opinion, and it's just that, one opinion, I'd recommend you rebuild it back to stock configuration. If you want reliability, buy the best parts you can find, and build it carefully. These cars are better than their reputation, it's just that they spent so many years when they were dirt cheap, and every amatuer mechanic diddled with them, so they ended up with jokes about leaking oil, bad electrics. I'll bet among the posters here there are plenty of cars which are dead reliable. I have a friend... MORE
It's hard to improve on PilotRob's treatise, but my 2 cents: I'll guess you're running rich, have some ring wear and blowby, but as David said - if it runs okay and doesn't use oil, don't worry about it. As a minor point; when we bought our first Sprite in '60, we meticulously flushed the engine at every oil change. We didn't know about flushing oils, so we drained the oil, refilled with a 50/50 mixture of oil and kerosene, ran that at a fast idle for 5 or 10 minutes, then drained that, changed the filter and refilled... MORE
Hi Jason According to my original Sprite hand book it is bad practice to let your car warm up at idle speed at a standstill, much better to warm it at higher revs on the move. On the question of oil colour I have a newly rebuilt engine and at 1000 miles the oil looks almost as clean as it did when it was put in (quite difficult to see it on the dipstick since it is so clear. Prior to the rebuild it was like yours, but if it runs ok and doesn't burn oil who cares about... MORE
I have opened more than a couple engines that had what just about amounts to tar in the crankcase. This stuff is thicker and heavier that the rest of the oil and sticks to everyting it can and is mostly NOT going to drain on an oil change. One I recently opened had even been rebuilt at some point. I can't be sure, but I had the impression that it hadn't been cleaned out well before being reassembled. The crank was at .010 undesize and the bearings were already shot from this dirty stuff mixing with whatever oil changes... MORE
You probably have a lot of sludge in the sump. Get a bottle or can of motor flush and follow the instructions. Gerard "gerardchateau" 8717... MORE
Jason, The last time I used it, you added it to the engine and let it warm up to normal running temperature, let it run for 15 minutes, then shut it down, drain it out, then replace it with fresh oil. I was never sure just how much of the sludge in the engine was dissolved by the stuff, but the rocker arm cover did look cleaner. Nothing replaces an engine teardown for cleaning, but it could cut down on the amount of easily dissolved crud and keep it from solidifying into moon rocks. Just my tuppence worth David... MORE
Now with this engine flush stuff. Do you add it right with the oil that is in the car already or do you have to do an oil change and then add the flush and then do another oil change? Thanks Jason "Jason Gross" 8727... MORE
Ya know, Jason- I read the first part of your post on this and couldn't help but relate your warm-up style to the black oil but, there is much more to consider so "maybe" or "maybe not" with respect to these particular thoughts on this as to how they MIGHT relate to each other, but here it goes, anyway. Bear in mind, modern oils are "detergent" as well as "ashless dispersant" types; they "clean" in the first instance, and "hold" contamination within the oil "in suspension" to be drained away at the next oil change. The "older" the engine... MORE
Hello Folks I have a question for you all. First the history My car is a 1971 MG Midget 1275, when first starting it needs some time to heat up so I have to sit in the car till I get it up to temp. once it is there I can put the choke in and get out of the car. When operating it runs great and I have had no problems with the car. I do have a samll oil leak but it hardly uses any oil. I do an oil change every say 900 to 1000 miles... MORE
babyblumg- Try the 5 speed with the diff you have in the normal driving you do on a weekly or monthly basis. It will soon become apparent to you whether the diff ratio you have, along with the 5 speed ratios, is suitable and compatible with YOUR "application", or needs changing in your personal opinion, which is the only one that truly counts in such personal matters. For an idea of what to expect with different ratios and tires (size) combos, you might want to take a look at the great info that is available at: pixelsmith@... This site... MORE
well, one person has given me a starting point.but I need a few specifics.. My engine needs a re-ring(overhaul?) and my clutch is BAD, and I agree w/ the others on the MUST HAVE a 5 speed. I am not worried about the "value" of the car, as I never intend to sell it. I do however want a reliable daily driver (I just really love the body and styling) VERY reliable. This is myquestion: I am considering another engine, and tranny, and what rear axle would work best... Ive heard the chevy is a good engine..what about a... MORE
If you are after more relaxed cruising then changing the final drive ratio is the best way to achieve this with out - over stressing engine, over stressing your fuel bill and ending up deaf !! Consider swapping to a five speed conversion using a different make gearbox (loads of specialists out there), changing diff ratio or trying to find an overdrive box from a Triumph. 1st option is pricey but strong and refined, 2nd option is the most simple and cheap but limited in options, 3rd is not so pricey, is periodically correct but not so refined. If... MORE
Stanley When I rebuilt my 1500 I went .020 over flat top pistons standard pistons are dished, a new TSI 275-2 cam from TSI Imported Automotive, and milled the head .080 but I think you can go .100 without a problem, a Weber DGV, headers and a free flow exhaust. This will give you a compression ratio of about 9.5 to 1 up from 7.0. Much faster now but still takes a lot of RPMs to do 70 mph. But it gets there a lot faster and easier. Sounds great too!! Doug 77 Michigan Doug Pletcher 8695... MORE
Heat is good, Jason!! And a working blower (while venting heated air into the cockpit) also provides for another method of engine cooling in the summer (albeit at the possible expense of the occupant's comfort level!). Cap'n. Bob '61 :{) PilotRob@... 8692... MORE
