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Anyone interested in a steel bug-eye bonnet that needs a little TLC? I got this bonnet to convert my 62 into a bug-eye but it won't fit over my engine (long story) and I'm not about to cut holes in the top of an original steel bonnet, but I have no qualms with cutting up a square nose bonnet. At any rate... this bonnet had been hit on the front passenger corner, so there was a football size dent, right on the fender beading.The dent has been roughly pushed out and needs to go to a body person who... MORE
Bee Anne, Found these ad on the Midget and Sprite Club web site, I do not know anything about it and not sure if they are still avail mg midget 1976 (white) this little car is in good condition ,new tires ,new clutch,new convertible top ,original radio low miles .everything works,no smoke, strong engine,good oil preasure.take this beauty home with you.good interior ,ready to rock and roll. e-mail me for pics you will like it. price $2,800 o.b.o. Contact: sal hernandez Email: chalo715@... Tel: 305-607-3649 Location: miami Florida USA Dated: 13/02/2002 1972 MG MIdget $3400 Great shape 1972 MG... MORE
Charlie, These little heaters aren't great in very cold climates, but just in case, do you know about the manual flaps in the footwells that control how much air enters the cockpit and the shutoff valve on the cylinder head? Gerard "gerardchateau" 7818... MORE
The '61 came with a 948, the '62 came with a 1098 with 1 3/4" mains (junk motor) and then '63 1098 with 2" mains). The 1098 for the mk1 could have been a replacement along the line, anything can happen with the history of these cars. This 1098 discussed does not sound like the original motor for that mk1. I am planning on replacing my 948 with a 1275 I have in storage which is waiting for reassembly. The 948 is ok but not enough power for these Southern Califorinia freeways, especially I-5. My personal opinion on motor... MORE
A '61 would have originally come with a 948. You can tell what's actually in there by looking at the serial number plate in the engine block near the #1 spark plug. It will start with a 9, 10 or 12, indicating the CC range. Gerard "gerardchateau" 7788... MORE
Mikkel, I would evaluate the situation with the current engine depending on if you want to keep the car, reliability factor, and if you are a purist. Firsthand, if the prefix if the engine number starts with 10CG, get rid of it, because it has smaller crank bearing diameters and they tend to throw rods, not as bad as Triumph's awful 1500 Spitfire engine. If the prefix is 10CC, It has larger bearing diameters, I would keep and rebuild it. If the rings are shot, which they probably are, consider a rebore. If you dont care about originality, a... MORE
I wonder if anyone has pictures of a Mk2 Midget 1098 (GAN 3 ?) engine bay (right-hand drive) that could be posted to the Group. Mine has a few bits missing, but also some of the wires/pipes are not stuck down or routed properly, so I have no way of knowing what fixings are needed. Also, the bracket for the heater motor, which I got 'mail order', doesn't seem to be the right one - it places the motor too far to the right, so it clashes with the 'air-box'. At the moment I'm not able to take it... MORE
Yes I thought so mine is a 948 "Lacoco, Mark" 7790... MORE
Does the 1961 midget have a 1098 or 948? "Lacoco, Mark" 7786... MORE
948 originaly "Brad Fornal" 7787... MORE
Not that I need one right now, knock wood, but I'm looking for recommendations for a good repair shop in southern NH. My regular mechanic is strictly a chevy/ford/dodge man, and I figured some one on here would be able to suggest somebody. Another question: on my '79 1500 there are two heater hoses coming from the block. One of then seems to go thru some sort of valve ( which is frozen, BTW). Any clue what this valve is? and does this explain why it takes 20-30 minutes to get any heat out of the engine? On 9... MORE
Bill, As I don't have a steam cleaner and I didn't have a power washer at the time, When I did mine, I pulled the engine, etc. etc. then soaked everything with Simple Green. Waited about 30 minutes, hosed it off. Had to hit the trouble spots a second time. Let is soak in for about an hour. Then just hosed it off. What was left was the rust and paint chips. I have been really impressed with the grease and gunk removal of Simple Green. A little sanding and wire brushing was all there was to it. Sounds... MORE
Bill, There are varying levels of deatail in doing this and it is partially conditional on what you're after and the starting condition. If your car has the ususal rust protection, i.e. OIL, you may find that the condition of the paint underneath is in still good. The problem areas are always around the battery box and master cylnders. Since these areas have typically been paint stripped by loss of respective contents, I suggest you start there after powerwashing the engine bay. You will need to sand, wirebrush and use phosphoric acid to get to bare clean metal. I... MORE
Mikkel, Less than 10lbs oil pressure in an A-series engine is a serious condition and particularly in a 1098 will lead to catastrophic bearing and consequently rod failure. Rebuild or replace it befroe you put a rod though the block. General rule of thimb is you should have 10lbs oil pressure for every 1000 RPM of the engine. The amount your using up is not a good sign either. I don't know your mechanical skill level, but rebuilding these engines isn't terribly difficult or expensive if you can do some of the work yourself. If you don't feel your... MORE
The valve is a rotating cylinder valve that either opens the heater core to coolant flow for winter operation, or bypasses the core for warmer months. It is NOT generally available in M*ss or other brittish auto suppliers. It can however be freed up with some sort of penetrant. Usually it gets stuck with calcium deposits that get deposited over years of sitting or non-use. It might be stuck in the Closed or partially closed position causing very little heated coolant to flow thru the heater core thus causing your toes to freeze to the pedals. It can be... MORE
Had something similar several years ago, though only 40 miles/pint. Left lovely louds of blue smoke everywhere, esapecially after a high- speed run (or as high as you can stand in a Midget. Needs thorough rebuild or replacement My actual answer depends on how original you want it to be. Purists would ask you to rebuild it as new, but the other option is to go for something more interesting in the way of Stage 2 1275 or something even more radical from engine suppliers like Oselli. It all depends on your approach, desire for DIY, how you use... MORE
Sorry your question was also 'is there anything I can do...' It sounds to me like your engine is worn out. That type of oil use indicates that the piston rings are knackered and the valve guides are shot. rebuild time I'm afraid... The reasonable oil pressure suggests that the crank is still good although running it short of oil constantly won't be doing it any favours. J "jamesbilsland" 7764... MORE
Mikkel You could swap your engine - although unless you know the car that an engine has come out of, or go to a reputable source, 'exchange' engines can be rather an unknown quantity. Don't go for the cheapest - it usually means that all the engine has received by way of a rebuild is a good steam clean, an oil change and a coat of paint... Check out the MG parts suppliers (M*ss etc.) for an idea on sensible exchange prices. The other option is to rebuild - unless absolutely everything is worn out this can prove cheaper... MORE
My MK 1 Midget uses a LOT of oil (2-3 litres pr. 50 miles). When I start the car the pressure is between 40 and 60, but after a while it drops below 10. Then I know its time for a refill! I am sure it must be easy just to change the engine, but is there anything else I can do about the problem? If I have to change the engine, how much should I pay for an exchange unit (UK pounds)? Mikkel Crone Nielsen London "mikkelcrone" 7762... MORE
Bill, I am in the process of cleaning up the engine compartment on my '75 Midget. I have to pull the engine and trans to replace the trans with a better unit so I decided to tackle the job. I am using two methods: Wire brush on a drill and engine degreaser. I've got the upper half about done with the wire brush and it looks fine. The heavier gunk is below which I won't tackle until I pull the engine in a few weeks. I am freaking out about putting everything back together at this point. FYI-As an... MORE
I have just removed, cleaned, and painted the Heater unit in my 76 Midget. Upon setting it back in place in the vehicle, I notice that the exhaust port (on the bottom of the unit) does not sit flush against the hole that feeds heat into the car. It seems to be a U-channel, with 3 screws on the front flange, 3 on the back, but both ends are open. Is there a reason it is designed that way? It seems that this allows hot air to blow into the engine compartment and engine compartment odors to be sucked... MORE
You can't go strickly by clock position. Having gone through this with plenty of DPO engines, I can tell you that often the correct position of the distributor drive gear is often ignored. Frequently, this is compensated for by unorthodox starting positions of the No 1 spark wire. The best way to tell is to get No 1 cylinder on the compression stroke and see where the rotor is pointing, then place the wires in the right order from there. Gerard "gerardchateau" 7687... MORE
The alternator has three connections, two large, 35 amp spades, and one small. They are large (sense), large (output), small (ignition lamp) in that order. The lead from the battery goes to the center terminal of the alternator. This is the alternator output. The small lead goes to the small terminal of the alternator. This is for the ignition light. The other large wire is the sense wire. The alternator uses this to keep the battery volts constant irrespective of the current being taken by the lights etc which causes a volt drop in the wiring. It goes to... MORE
Tim, There is no need to disconnect any thing else whilst working on the pump unless the car is on a steep forwards slope raising the fuel tank above pump inlet level. The oil level in the block is below the mounting hole. If you want to be PC then disconnect battery to avoid sparks etc. As the hand primer is working is follows that that pump itself is working. No need to strip - unless you are into that sort of thing - or you wish to clean it. The common problem is wear on the pump lever... MORE
Chris Before I broke mine it was running 135 across the board. After the rebuild it is at 155. But this is with flat top pistons and a shaved head. Doug 77 Michigan "Doug Pletcher" 7627... MORE
