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Welcome, new guy! John, I owned a "Vizard" tuned 1275 "over" .060 that gave over 90hp at the rear wheels. In normal daily driving, never had any problem with the axle's or rear ends. I am "smooth" however, no rough stuff. No "banging" clutch's or shifts. The word Oselli conjured up a less than satisfactory impression. I seem to remember Dan Stapleton in his book, referred to having an Oselli lead free head installed on his 1275 when going over to lead-free operation. Performance was well down over the "old" head he had replaced. He was working on the... MORE
Well I finally got my Midget on the road. I fought the clutch problem for several weeks, but perseverance paid off. While it can be driven, I have another problem. The oil pressure starts off around 45 to 50 psi when first started but once it is warmed up it idles at 5 psi and goes to 25 psi when I drive it. I am going to keep it parked until I figure out the problem. I checked the oil over-presurization valve and am using the 20-50 oil and changed the oil filter after only 10 miles to see... MORE
Hi guys, Recently found this group and love the mix of technical info, humour and complete rubbish! Used to own a '63 1098 and a '58 tuned 948 Sprite about 10 years ago. The later Sprite had an ashley hardtop and looked like nothing else on the road. Have just bought a RWA 1275cc and want to go hillclimbing on the odd weekend. Couple of questions - thinking of an Oselli engine. Anyone had any experiences? Any good alternatives? Looking for about 110bhp and will need it to be fairly driveable and reliable. Will the standard halfshafts handle that... MORE
Remove the cylinder head and sump which you've probably already done. Leave the engine upside down over night with the piston rings soaking in oil. Turn the engine over and lubricate the bore from above and leave a while to soak. Firmly support the engine as it would be in the car, and place a block of wood on the piston crown. Use progressively more force with a hammer, small controlled taps with big hammer rather than running across the garage with a small hammer. You might well score the bore, this should come out with a 20 thou... MORE
The easiest way to lower a 1500 to 1275 height is to fit 10" Mini wheels but I suggest that fitting lowered springs would be a better idea! ;o) James "James Bilsland" 5111... MORE
Does anyone know the easiest way to lower a 1500 to the same height as a 1275? Also what is the difference between the springs on a 1500 & 1275 ? Any info would be greatly appreciated. Vince "Vince Gillin" 5109... MORE
Hello All, I recently bought a '67 1275 that stuck the number 3 piston in 1973 and has been on the garage floor since. When I removed the rod end caps I found that the number 3 bearing had spun and part of it was in the pan. I've got the crank and the other 3 pistons out but can't budge the third piston. I've split a couple of pieces of 2x4 trying and used a lot of penetrating oil with no results. Does anyone have any tricks for getting pistons out or is this a job for the... MORE
Thanx for your message, Dave- So it's just a beefed up support these rubber bumpers are attached to; interesting! Just for kicks, Dave, let me know if what you find behind the front rubber bumper will allow the installation of an oil cooler before the radiator. I am curious! Also, would like to know whether you prefer driving the 1275 or the 1500 (once you've got the 1275 up and running) and why you might prefer driving one over the other in traffic and/or on the highway. (1275's normally equipped with 3.9 and 1500's with 3.7; don't have any... MORE
Can you push the car up the drive as well as down? Release the pressure between the starter and flywheel usually frees them up. If you can't, brakes on and keep the clutch pressed down (release the pressure imparted from the drive train) and smack the starter motor with a medium sized hammer. To further that method you could take the spark plugs out to relieve pressure from the engine as well (but I've never had to do that - a smack from the universal thumb squasher usually allows them to separate -) ). If you look through previous... MORE
Jon Spell checker it is. Not really a new computer just a few new parts and lots of old ones. Better to have a new cam and carb more fun less problems. More go fast Doug 77 "Doug Pletcher" 5071... MORE
First thing to load is your spell checker. (G) Wish I had a new computer :-( Bought a new cam and carb for my Midget though. Jon "Jon Paschke" 5070... MORE
All, I know a popular one this, but to save me searching through countless old posts full of non LBC content (lets not open that can of worms again!!) I would like some advice. My 71 sprite (1275) is in dire need of an alternator (don't ask why a 71 car has got a dynamo). What is the best alternator to use? (bear in mind I'm in the uk..) I'm after quite a lot of power due to my sprite being fully technologically advanced and running a PC (again, don't ask - yet!) As ever, all help appreciated... ST... MORE
I have sent out a few questions in the last few weeks and I have not even seen a reply. I didn't know if it was getting to you folks or not. Thanks Jason 1971 Midget 1275cc "Jason Gross" 5046... MORE
Stuart- Thanks for your message on oil coolers not being stock on 15oo's. How about that! Well, we are learning all things about 1500's these past few days, including their differences from Series A in terms of running oil pressures. I agree with you absolutely; oil coolers should be stock on 1500's. I am told by others their crankshafts/bearings could use a little help and that this is the weak point in 15oo's. Cap'n. Bob '61 :{) PilotRob@... 5045... MORE
Doug 77; This is certainly good news! Great! And I learned something about 1500's. Looks like the Royal Purple 20-50 is certainly the way to go; enjoy "carefree" driving and continued good luck with new engine! :) Cap'n. Bob '61 :{) PilotRob@... 5040... MORE
Hi Ed in SD- Not "panic" time, Ed; "concern" time! I would agree with you if engine wasn't so "new", but I don't "know" the 1500 either, being a Series A type of guy. In a recently rebuilt Series A, assuming proper "street" clearances, I'd expect 70 cold and nothing under at least 60 hot at 3,000 revs. and these would be minimums at that, for a "new" rebuilt. Heck, my well used 1098 delivers this in 80+ degree ambient temps. and it's got nearly 50K on it (using 20-50). I assume (ass-u-me) the 1500 comes stock with an... MORE
Mike nice spridget. I have one question as a fellow Midget and MGC GT. Who is the owner of the sebring replica MGC GT? Is there any information about that particular one online? Tad R. Orlando, FL 74 RWA Midget 1275 69 MGC GT "richard rivenbark" 5036... MORE
Bob Thanks for the kind words. Car back in 1986 was around =A35000 fully built. In 2000 the last cars, Type Approved, K Series sold for =A318000. So what's it worth today ? Hard to tell, on average more than a steel frog. Very few of the original 150 odd made ever come up for sale. One of the ear ly 1275's was advertised recently for =A37500. The later cars change hands for =A312000- 15000 ! They tend to be purchased by people who want a Geoffrey Healey Original, it s a broad church. Airline pilots (hello Capt. Bob),... MORE
Chris I think you are right. 6000 should be the limit. My old 948 Bugeye fully raced prepared was good for 7500 maybe a little more and that was scary. Doug 77 "Doug Pletcher" 5033... MORE
Doug (and all), Watch out going above 6000 rpm. My engine was built by a reputable (race) engine builder, included fully balanced bottom end (inc clutch), and he only took the motor up to 6250odd once it was run in. I seem to remember he recommended a 6000 limit. Having said all that, I know I have over-revved it a few times when having a good blat (inc missed gears, over-euthusiastic overtaking etc). This includes seeing the needle well past the 7000 mark - I am pretty sure it hit the stop at the end of the scale. But... MORE
Doug- There you go; that's the ticket, ok. Your post says it all, Doug. I assume you also installed a new oil pressure reliefe valve set-up as well when you did the motor? If not, now is the time; cheap insurance! This is a "live and learn" situation; BTDT. At least you caught this early so as to prevent damage to the crank and other internals due to low pressure, metal contamination, etc. This is what is really important; the "recovery", not the "error"! Good "recovery", Doug! Cap'n Bob '61 :{) P.S. - I am posting this along with... MORE
Hi, Mike: You are the first and only person I know who has one of these! I hear now, the Company is out of business(?) or is it simply up for sale(?). Would you mind telling me something of this "modern Frogeye" such as engine and driveline spec.? What sort of gearbox and rear axle ratio has it? And, of course, your subjective opinion and feeling as to what it is like to drive as compared to, let's say, a regular Frogeye with possibly a stock 1275 or something like that, provided, of course, you've had that sort of... MORE
Ref 1500's, a mates (rather tired) 1500 ran 10-20 psi below my 1380 'A' but seemed fine, used a bit of oil but they all do when a little worn. I hear they go on for ever! Cheers Mike M North London mike643mnp@... 5018... MORE
Cap'n. Bob '61 :{) I have about 300 miles on the new engine now. It is quite a bit quicker than before. I have not fine-tuned the timing yet will to that after a few more miles. Next time I go to the pump I will look if it=92s RON or PON I think it=92s RON. I have situation I don=92t like the oil pressure is not what I expected. At start up it=92s over 60 but as the engine heats up to 180/1 90 the oil pressure is still 60 but when the oil heats up it drops... MORE
Hello everyone I have a 1971 MG Midget that I have restored. We went to a MG car show and my wife really like the looks of the 1980 MGB LE. I have since found one and we are going to take a look at it this weekend. Anything anyone can suggest to look for? Any help would be appreciated. Thanks Jason 1971 Midget 1275cc "Jason Gross" 5005... MORE
