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My 2 (insert unit of currency) Fitting K&N Filters (and stub stacks) to the standard carb set up will alter the fuelling - it will make the engine run leaner (experience). The correct way to approach this problem is to fit new needles - a rolling road or dyno is the only way to get this right. "James Bilsland" 3748... MORE
Midget front wheel bearings unfortunately don't 'adjust' in the true sense as they are ball and not taper bearings. You can give tightening the hub nut a go - if loose it won't be very happy anyway... Make sure that you replace the split pin (use a new one if poss). Only real solution for slack front wheel bearings is replacement - don't forget to refit the steel cone that goes in between the bearings (and which holds the inner races away from each other thus preventing 'adjustment'...). Its a bugger when you realise you left it out and... MORE
Jim Its important that you drink the Guinness AFTER the caliper rebuild and not before. However anyone who has rebuilt a gearbox will know that it is vital to spend at least 4 hours in the pub BEFORE you start - that way when you lose a ball bearing and spring from a gear hub you won't care... (and it WILL happen...) ;o) James "James Bilsland" 3733... MORE
Hi, James- Though I am having a problem "visualizing" the reason for a change in needles when going to (only) freer flowing filters, your hands on experience is what I will "go with". There is no substitute for "BTDT" and the dyno is, indeed, the best way to go and, the best teacher and "educator" as well, for sure. Nothing like "seeing it" before your very eyes to make a "true believer" out of you, whether one fully understands the "theory" or not! In my case, I am "tuning" an HIF44 for a Judson blown 1293 so am very... MORE
not familiar with ARP head studs been awhile since I work on an engine. Where can I get them. I will keep you posted as I go along. I sure hope nothing else is glued together. dougp@... 3722... MORE
This shouldn't be a problem as long as everything is clean and properly reassembled - I have split a number of calipers on various race cars for cleaning/rebuild purposes. The only issue was when one (v rusty) set had dodgy bolts & I couldn't get decent torque on them on reassembly - new bolts required. Replace all seals (and a set of stainless pistons would be nice...). James "James Bilsland" 3674... MORE
My guess(es) for what its worth... 1. part of the top of the piston parted company with the skirt due to fatigue... 2. detonation at high revs (overadvanced/dodgy fuel) causing similar symptoms to 1. Hope it's repairable... Regards James "James Bilsland" 3665... MORE
Jim, The mating surfaces of the caliper halves are a mirror smooth machined parts. I have seen some that have extremely thin paper type gaskets. I have seen some that do not require a gasket at all. If there was no gasket there when they came apart, they should go back together the same way. Any brake repair shop should be able to get you the required paper gasket material (if necessary). Otherwise make sure they are free from scratches and squeaky clean before re-assembly. Remembering that there are very high pressures generated by the hydraulics (5000 PSI+). "Stevens,... MORE
Oh wise & wonderful Lists - need your help. After pulling disc brakes off my parts car (Sprite MkII) with help from friend, I ran to store. While I was away "friend" decided to help by disassembling brakes - including separating the Caliper halves to remove pistons. I know the manuals all say to not separate the calipers. Why - sealing issue? How big of a problem do I have? Can they be reassembled? Do I need to buy a replacement set? The calipers are in good condition & I have already bought the rebuild kits, so hate to... MORE
well foks I was out tonight motering in the MG on the freeway mashing the loud pedel to see how it fast it would go (within the speed limit of course) well something happened it started to run on only 3 cylinders. So I started home by the time I got home the main headlamps decided not to work the hi beams were OK. Got home and fixed the lights it was a loose connection in the dimmer switch. The other problem not so good. #1 cylinder had it's spark plug tip mashed and the compression went down to... MORE
Hello Kevin What kind of restoration are you looking for? Is it a total restoration or a rolling one. Also were are you located in New England? I know of 2 places one in Maine and one in New Hampshire. And also think, is this something that you could do your self or even have a few friends help you with. Also I don't know if you have already have or not but you can order a parts catalog from MOSS motors. www.Mossmotors.com. Also look for a whole seller for Moss, I have a great guy here in Maine... MORE
Finally solved my overheating problem this weekend, I was standing in front of my sprite after fitting some new chokes and jets congratulating myself on the difference they made when I felt a breeze around my legs (I was wearing shorts due to our unusually hot weather here in the UK!). Further investifation revealed that some joker had fitted a mini fan to front of my engine which, instead of sucking cold air in from outside was BLOWING hot air from the engine through the rad. New fan and voila, normal temperatures have been restored... BTW, I mailed Zoe... MORE
Here's Jason's question: Hello Everyone Just a few questions. First My front wheels, I had the midget up on a lift the other day and I noticed that I can grab a hold of the front wheels and they have a little side to side motion to them. How long can you ride on them this way? ( I have a 450 mile trip that has been planed for up to a year) Also how much in US money would it cost to have the whole front end replaced? (Springs, King pins, rack an pin stuff like that) Thanks... MORE
Group, IMHO you should NOT mix DOT 4 (glycol base) with DOT 5 (silicon base) The result will be, as mentioned a softening and swelling of the rubber seals. If you wish to change to DOT 5 from DOT 3 or 4 flush the system through with DOT 5 and use new seals throughout (A good time to do this is when replacing rusted brake pipes. Ideally, replace ALL brake lines including the flexibles.) There are questions as to the use of DOT 5, some people complaining that the brake pistons will not return fully to their 'old' unpressurised... MORE
Time to adjust the carburetors and needed some advice. I have the Haynes manual that tells you how to tell if the mixture is correct by the behavior of the idle when the carburetor piston is lifted slightly. I have also heard that the mixture needs to be different with the K&N air cleaners. So, how do I go about adjusting the carburetors? Do I use the method described in the Haynes manual with no changes? Do I use the method described, but leave the air cleaners on while I make the adjustments? Do I do something else all... MORE
Hello Everyone Just a few questions. First My front wheels, I had the midget up on a lift the other day and I noticed that I can grab a hold of the front wheels and they have a little side to side motion to them. How long can you ride on them this way? ( I have a 450 mile trip that has been planed for up to a year) Also how much in US money would it cost to have the whole front end replaced? (Springs, King pins, rack an pin stuff like that) Thanks in advance Jason... MORE
Don't know for sure if it's right, but I replaced the first motion shaft bearing in mine (the later ribcase type) and it still has some play! My brother in law says that there are bearings which are engineered /designed to have play....it might be to prevend the engine vibrations from destroying the bearing / gearbox. Maybe others on the list have the same experience with this particular bearing? BR Eeg. (GAN3) eeg.oberije@... 3553... MORE
Hi folks, Finally got around to pulling my 948 engine out of my bugeye to repair a badly leaking rear oil seal. Now I am wondering if it might be my tranny (smoothcase) that might be the culprit. Should there be any play in the first motion shaft. I grabbed hold of the shaft, the end that fits into the engine, and could wiggle it quite a bit. Is there a seal that goes in there somewhere and if so is it a big job?? I am still going to replace the rear seal with a crankshaft oil seal... MORE
Hi After wading through 300 + e-mails. For once a Midget topic. Solved the running rich problem, or Classic Cars of Kent did. The clue was that I could get it reasonable without the air filters on but it went mad when they were fitted. They are standard filters and the back plates were on upside down. There is a pair of small holes above the fixing holes that are an air hole for the pistons. With these blocked the pistons could not balance out. It goes fine now. I got to 35 mph on a short stretch of... MORE
First, it is unfortunate that so many are unsubscibing due to the chats we all see. I sure hope it stops and the list grows once again as I really enjoy seeing what others have to say and get ideas/inputs on my Midget. This information is very useful to me. Now to everyone I have been sending pics to, I had a week of not working on the Midget due to unforeseen events, IE wife's job list, work, weather, etc. I also have a new computer and am in the process of transferring your names to this one. In... MORE
never thought i would hear the words "perfectly good" and "guiness" in the same sentence :) Tad R 74 RWA 1275 Midget Florida "Richard Rivenbark" 3509... MORE
Allen Are you just talking rod bearing or both rods and mains. If it=92s both th at requires an engine pull and if that is the case new pistons and a hotter ca m may be in order. Oil pressure now is 60 at start up, 50 + at speed. Idle is 20+. Your thoughts Doug 77 "Doug Pletcher" 3496... MORE
Tom, You need to remove the "spirolox" retaining ring/clip. Put the MC in a padded vise with the spring pointing up, compress the spring down and you will be able to see the "spirolox" and the groove it sits in. It's a wiggle the thing off deal. Once thats done you can remove the spring and next you have an internal circlip to deal with before you can remove the main piston, after that another internal circlip to get the smaller piston out. Good Luck. Biff Jones Pasadena, MD '59 Bugeye, "Kermit' '62 Sprite, 'Ole Gray' '71 Midget, 'Freebie'... MORE
List: I started to help y friend rebuild his '69 Sprite brake m/c and we got stuck early. How do I get past the spring at the front of the cylinder to unlock the the internal parts? Thanks in advance, Tom Speed '62 Sprite (parts) '66 Midget (parts) '76 Midget (severely damaged awaiting chassis transplant) '75 Midget (transplant donor) '77 Midget (additional parts donor) "Thomas Speed" 3489... MORE
OK folks lets try something other Zoe this time. What is a good compression reading for a stock 1500. I am reading 135 across the board. Also to increase compression aside from different pistons how much can be taken off the head. Doug 77 dougp@... 3466... MORE
