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I don't wish to boast but I stripped mine down on Saturday and didn't lose any little parts.... ....Although it's still not right so any help on Choke / venturi / jet sizes for a pretty much normal 1275 would be helpful....???? :-)) ST Sprite '71 "Stuart Toller" 3138... MORE


Stuart Standard 1275 at a guess would like Choke 36mm Aux Vent 3.5 Emulsion tube F2 Airs & main jets really need setting up on a RR but as a first go (and at a bit of a guess since I haven't played with a 'standard' 1275 for years) I would go for 160 airs and 155 mains... I think Vizard gives the jetting for a standard 1275? James "James Bilsland" 3141... MORE


I recommend the beer approach followed with whisky once the engine is back in the car. ;o) J "James Bilsland" 3125... MORE


Dear Eeg / Bob et al, Go along with that with the exception of using a whisky instead of beer. You could also partially drill or grind the old ring in one place then chisel it to split it and then get it off. Suggest the use of goggles if you are doing it that way. (Big tee-hee) I wouldn't lubricate, use anti-seize, use aluminium ring gear or fly it across the Southern Hemisphere! ;-) Outcast A-H Sprite IV grday@... 3124... MORE


Hi, ST- I don't lose my "little parts", either, and as I said, it's really the only way to "thoroughly" clean out all those little channels. Also, by "spraying" carb cleaner into channels, you see what channels are "attached" to other channels! Very educational!! "Normal" settings I had in my 45DCOE when I picked it up originally from Sports & Classics, many, many years ago, "tuned" for stock 1275 Spridget: Chokes 34mm Aux Vent 3.5 Mains 145 Air Corr. 175 Pump jet 50 Idle 50F9 Placed same on stock 1275 and worked just fine, right out of box. Hope... MORE


"More photos in photo section" 'Cause, Gary, some of us (like myself) have just gotten their scanners and haven't set them up, yet! Working on it. (First I've got to take apart my 45DCOE and find the two little ball bearings and how they affect the accelerator pump circuit if, in fact, they affect this circuit at all, as I have been led to believe in prior experience, so that I can get off the hook with "Daniel 1312"!) However, pictures of my little Leaf Green '61 Frog are "on the way"! Just don't hold your breath! Cap'n. Bob... MORE


Hi list, Just something that just popped-up in my mind yesterday evening.... The haynes manual gives some instructions on replacing the starter ring gear.... Question 1: When should this gear definitly be replaced? How to judge if this is necessary? (If I look at mine, the teeth are a bit rounded, but still there...) Question 2: Should I go the haynes way, and do it myself or should I purchase a refurbished one? Question 3: Should I get the flywheel balanced after replacing the gear? Any other advice, tips & tricks for replacing the ring gear are welcome! Thanks... MORE


Hi all, In need of help again. Convinced the car is running rich (and I cannot get it any leaner) and that I can get it going better I had a look at the carbs. It is a November 1972 1275cc UK car with no known mods. Twin Su's. The needles are AN, are these right as my book says this year should have AAT? Will this matter? The needles have no spring behind them. Where should the shoulder of the needle be in relation to the piston? When the piston bottoms what should bottom on to what? Now... MORE


I have a farly tuned 1275 and use a standard v-flow cooling system with much success. Only mod. is removal of the engine fan and a sucking kenlowe. Oh and I have an oil cooler which I guess helps. "Jeremy Cogman" 3157... MORE


Hi All. The restoration of my 60 Bugeye is finally complete except for a pesky real oil seal leak. I plan on running her for a few hundred miles with the hope everything will wear in (New rebuilt engine)after a while. If not I will pull the engine and install a real seal conversion kit. Anyone ever installed one?? Is it a straight forward project or are there any tricks or pitfalls I should know about? I have a picture of my bugeye in the PHOTO section if anyone wants to take a look. I would like to thank... MORE


Unlatch the clamps on the windshield pull the studs off the car fold back the top and pull the top free from the frame so it does not pinch fold the 2 corner sides in on top of the top and then pull the hole top over into the car Then attach the boot over the top by snapping on the boot. For parts try www.thebpc.com he is a MOSS MOTORS whole seller Good luck Jason Brewer Maine USA "Jason Gross" 3066... MORE


I have just uprated my engine and driven thro france with the temperature on the sicn boards reading 40deg c I have fitted the american spec rad and had no troubles unless i was trying to exceed the speed limit Mike c "michael.chapman4" 3056... MORE


Having been away for a few days i have not seen the conclusion to to the tachometer / revcounter wavering, I have rebuilt my engine etc and now find that my tacho wavers did anybody have a solution. mine also stopped wavering if the lights or wipers were on .Help!!!!!!! Mike c "michael.chapman4" 3041... MORE


Now sounds like the time to bite the bullet and buy a pair of unleaded cylinder heads, or face the litigation when the plug embeds itself in someone's head. Roy david.stevens@... on 09/08/2001 16:16:18 Please respond to midgetsprite@yahoogroups.com @INTERNET@wtgw Roy, now is the time for the helicoil fix, oh and by the way, it eventually will blow out and imbed itself somewhere in the engine compartment... Roy Drake 3038... MORE


LOL! Why did no one tell me this before I serviced my VW Camper! No.3 plug is now a permanent engine fixture after I crudely carried on tightening, thinking 'this doesn't feel right? It should have stopped turning by now'. I just hope it doesn't blow out of the engine, unlikely with the agricultural compression ration of the VW. Roy. ******************************************************************** This email and any attachments are confidential to the intended recipient and may also be privileged. If you are not the intended recipient please delete it from your system and notify the sender. You should not copy it... MORE


Sounds like a textbook case of vapour-lock to me- heat from the engine is boiling the fuel in your fuel lines or carburettor. Try fitting a heat shield, rerouting your fuel lines, or wrapping them in heat-proof stuff. Also check your timing and mixture, advanced timing or a weak mixture may be increasing the temperature under the bonnet. Good luck! G "Grant Bowyer" 2994... MORE


Keep adding the 2 cents worth .... here's my two penn'orth .... For your information (but not to annoy), what was (but is not any more) the largest fleet of 'privately' owned Range Rovers (32 of) in the UK hasn't used anti-seize on spark plugs from 1971 to date, neither did I when I owned mine. When I sold that (no 48 from production line with limited slip centre diff), it was 22 years old with the original engine and heads - but it did have new unlubricated plugs that were changed at service intervals. It did not have... MORE


Thank you for this advice, Chris, on installation of plugs in aluminum heads as I am about to do this with my new engine! Cap'n. Bob '61 :{) PilotRob@... 3013... MORE


Where I can get aluminium heads for my 'A'Series engine? :o) Outcast A-H Sprite MkIV grday@... 3004... MORE


Roy, now is the time for the helicoil fix, oh and by the way, it eventually will blow out and imbed itself somewhere in the engine compartment... "Stevens, David" 3011... MORE


Chris, et. al, IMHO. Those of us who have owned any of the VW air cooled engine cars are quite familiar wit the term "HELICOIL". That is until we learned to heat up the engine before we attempted to take the sparkplugs out. Due to the thermodynamics of aluminum, it heats up much faster than the ferrous metal used in the plugs (ergo the reason they make cooking surfaces out of the stuff). Therefor, if you run the engine and warm up the heads fro a few minutes, shut it down and then remove the steel plugs (which have... MORE


David- IMHO I think you have more than one problem here, maybe! The stalling in hot weather seems related to fuel getting hot (vapor problems), which I have never had, even in highly tuned 1275 (100hp+) street engines; so why would your fuel get hotter than mine under similiar circumstances? Hmmm! Are you running a normal "heat shield"? Could you be more specific on the cold weather starting problem? It's cranking OK but not firing at all, or just on some plugs 'til it warms up? Is humidity a factor like it happens in dry cold weather as well... MORE


Hi all, My 1967 early Mk 4 sprite features a misfire when it gets warm, especially sat in traffic. I THINK it may be related to the non vacuum advance distrib utor. Has anyone else had a similar problem? It seems to go away when the e ngine cools. The motor is 1275cc, stage 2 head, and I think the distributor was modified for race (not my doing!). I get a very bad problem cold starting the vehic le which seems to improve when I replace the plugs and the rotor arm - but then gradually gets worse again... MORE


Two car shows coming up this month in SE Pennsylvania. August 11 & 12 is the New Hope Auto Show, at the New Hope/Solebury High School in New Hope, PA, just off Route 202. (Easy access from NJ.) Lots of antique and classic cars, and a good variety of Brit cars as well. A pretty good auto jumble (flea market), and food is available from the local Boy Scout troop, so it isn't too expensive. August 19 is the PA Mustang Club car show in Coopersburg, PA. On Route 309, just north of Quakertown. Very large selection of classic... MORE


Paul I don't want to worry you unduly but as soon as you start tuning engines you move out of totally 'safe' territory. If MG had thought that a 1275 engine could reliably give 100bhp at the flywheel over 100,000 miles then they would have done it... I do recommend RR's for tuned engines. IMHO using a RR is much less of a risk than taking an engine that has not been properly set up and thrashing it down the motorway at 90mph. Ignition and fuelling errors can very quickly lead to vaporised pistons or burnt valves... I cannot... MORE