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Ooops - I failed to read Paul's final sentence properly... 22 degrees total advance (v a connected or disconnected) is mega safe territory and suggests (as Graham says) a modified dizzy (so I guess you're running the Aldon already?). Run the engine in, replace the head gasket and get it rolling road tuned as previously suggested. regards James "James Bilsland" 2679... MORE
Anyone want to wager on how long a warm 1330 with a high CR will last with 2 head gaskets? A pint says 1 month. (of course you'll have to come to NZ to get it if I'm wrong... and I really do hope I'm wrong.) Good luck Paul, Regards, G "Grant Bowyer" 2657... MORE
Peter Machine a bigger dish in the pistons or replace the head with one that has more volume in it. James "James Bilsland" 2672... MORE
All, thanks for all the suggestions ... only just replaced all the gearbox stuff - previous owner had put the clutch in back to front so it was one of the first things I did. The timing chain is part of the rebuild so that should be ok. Gearbox mounts look sound. Oil cooler sounds tempting but that would delay getting the car back on the road and I'm itching to drive the thing. Fitted a new clutch slave cylinder only a couple of months ago so that should be ok. Radiator and hoses & thermostat are all new.... MORE
Outcast. A 37 year old Glenmorangie - i'll have a glass please !!! The only comment I would make on your tips is that if you have just rebuilt an engine today using new manufactured parts and modern machining methods then it should be to far tighter tolerances and should give a better than new perfomance. Your suggestions on running in still sound good to me. An echo from the past? Graham Robson grday@... on 18-07-2001 22:32:24 Please respond to midgetsprite@yahoogroups.com To: midgetsprite@yahoogroups.com cc: Subject: [midgetsprite] Running In Hi Group, In the dark old days when I was a... MORE
Paul The manual settings for ignition timing only work on unmodified engines. You have to set the total advance on an modified engine. Adjustable timing lights are available at most Halfords stores - get one (today!). Set the timing at 26 degrees total advance (If you are running vaccuum advance disconnect it and plug the hole in the manifold/carb). 11.1 CR will work using super unleaded fuel or LRP - you just have to retard the ignition (and the ignition 'curve' hence the advice you have received to get an Aldon dizzy). I am aware of the 'multiple head... MORE
Hi James, I take note of your comments, and I must say they do worry me a bit, (your knowledge of these engines is undoubtedly much greater than mine), but the idea of the sandwiched gaskets was recommended to me by a friend who use to build race tuned engines at BMC. This technique of sandwiching gaskets was used as a method of lowering compression, especially when high octane fuel was not available. Apparently, (so I'm told) 11 to 1 CR requires a fuel with an octane of 104, and as five star, (not available round these parts) is... MORE
Peter I ran 1.5 roller on my hot 1380. Ditched in favour of standard setup to just take the edge of the 286 cam which was a bit frantic for road use. However red mist moments mean i am thinking of putting them back on....runs fine with either set up in road trim. Flat out racing 6000k + etc would be roller country for sure. Hope this helps (sure it doesn't!) Mike M North London mike643mnp@... 2673... MORE
I have been fitting a reman head to my 948 Midget. In doing so, I thought that I would get some new plugs. Now the original part number in Champion is N5. Now when I look in the latest Champion application catalog, they list an RN12YC. The heat range is the same, but this is an extended tip plug. My question is: Will this work without interference? Last time I checked, plug meeting piston or valve is not a happy relationship. Thanks for everyone's help, Jeff GAN 1 Midget captaincog@... 2661... MORE
Dave Maybe it was working with a bunch of 'Sarf London geezers' at Bill Richards Racing (as I used to do) but we always used to 'rev the tits' off an engine... I hope no-one is confused anymore... James "James Bilsland" 2656... MORE
Paul Not sure I like the idea of 3 head gaskets... To check the new CR work on the basis of 3.4cc volume for each gasket... 11.1 CR is OK for the road as long as the ignition is set up properly (about 26 degrees total advance on a 1330) Good luck James "James Bilsland" 2655... MORE
Peter It rather depends on what cam you are running. Piper cams generally like 1.3 ratio roller rockers. Kent cams generally get on well with 1.5 ratio roller rockers. If you have a standard cam you can benefit fron 1.5 ratio rockers. Roller rockers give no more power than similar ratio non-roller rockers. What they do is prevent you wearing out your valve guides with race/high lift cams too quickly(they prevent too much 'side load' on the valves). Don't bother with Rimflo valves - they are expensive and only really worth it on a standard head/valve size motor sport... MORE
Mark Did the first few years of Midget ownership with 1098 engines - not a problem... Have a go at the following: - 1. New clutch and release bearing 2. As you suggest 1275 oil filter housing & new engine mounts (also new gearbox mounts maybe?) 3. Replace the (single chain) camshaft timing set up with a 1275 duplex set up 4. Check/flush the radiator 5. Replace the thermostat 6. Check/replace the radiator hoses 7. Check/replace/fit an oil cooler and hoses 8. New spark plugs/leads/dizzy cap/rotor arm etc etc... You can go with running in oil - I never... MORE
Hi Group, In the dark old days when I was a lad (black & white story coming up) to run a rebuilt BMC A series engine in you used a SAE 30 oil and drove GENTLY for the first 500 miles or so. 1st oil change after 250 miles, replace filter and oil (SAE 30 oil again and new filter 'cause that is where the metal bits collected). After this you could rev the engine a little provided it was at running temp, you were not running at high revs for extended periods and you were NOT PUTTING IT... MORE
I would also like to know any thoughts on roller rockers as I have heard that it is like going up to the next cam number, but also improves flow and breathing amy thoughts welcome. mike c "michael.chapman4" 2643... MORE
Right Hi Chaps, I'm back on the road. Well after all the "trials and tribulations" I have, with the help of a very good friend taken the head off my engine...........remember the "new 1330"..........and replaced the head gasket............it had blown, between 2 & 3, just as we thought. Probaly due to my negligence in not tightening the head bolts after the engine had been run for the first time and got up to temperature..........ah well you live and learn. Why would the bloody thing not start?.......Well we just do not know, but, we also stripped the carburettor down and... MORE
Peter, I have 1.5 to 1 rockers and Rimflo valves in my 1098. I can not give an honest impression as to their effectiveness. I ran the car for 1 month after a rebuild in Utah, 4500 ft up. The cam was not degreed in correctly. Winter set in and I never got back to it until now. Now 14 years later my son and I are fixing the rust and will get the engine running soon. It will be his first car. Start em off right! BTW I'm a transplant from the mother country. Martyn meastwood1@... "Martyn Eastwood"... MORE
Running in oil for first 500 miles (very thin stuff so the engine beds in - it will smoke a little), keep revs under 3000rpm. Change oil to 20-50 or whatever you use. Slowly increase revs. Good even steady running is good, motorway driving along with the trucks at 55- 60! Just my 1/2p You will no doubt get more suggestions, the trick really is just not to over due it. Really cheap oil can work in place of running in oil - alegedly . . . Chris car? Also, I've never had a car that needs running in... MORE
Cast your minds back a bit ... remember I first asked about a rattle in the engine ... which turned into a question about what to exchange the engine with ...? Well anyway, rather than going down the modified route (sorry James et al!) I decided to go for having my original 1098 engine rebuilt. Anyway, now the summer is well and truly over, the engine is now back with me (well, at the garage anyway). Before it goes back in the car I'll be replacing the engine mounting blocks and also converting the oil filter head to take... MORE
Clang-a-chunkackunkachunka-thakalumpabanga-KTHRUMP-futshshshshsh! Rod through the side of the block. What do you call it in the US? "rob thomas" 2620... MORE
Hi, My Frogeye Sprite is looking for a good home: It is a Geoffrey Healey-approved Isle of Wight-built replica with a twin-carb 65bhp 1,275cc A-Series motor. GRP shell on a galvanised steel chassis assures a long life. Colour is bright red with biscuit tan interior, new battery, windscreen, Pirelli tyres on Minilite replicas and a stainless steel Maniflow exhaust. I have owned this car for six years, but too much work means I have no time to drive it, and cars need to be used. If you are interested, please drop me an e-mail. Cheers, IAN KUAH IK 2618... MORE
Bent needle on the instrument. Cap.n Moores' Bentley had to come home on the back of the train after the 27500 rebuild on his 1929 engine showed a dropping pressure on the first post-rebuild run (down to Avignon). Got it home, stripped the bottom end and finally decided to test the gauge on the dashboard. Needle had reached the stop and caught on the stop 'pin' and bent the shaft. Every time it started it would reach the end of travel and bend the pin further until at running pressure it only showed 10psi. "rob thomas" 2617... MORE
Hi Guys, Someone was asking about Geoffrey Healey's book - More Healeys etc. and wondering if there were copies about. A friend has just bought an out of print book from the States using Automated Book Exchange at www.abebooks.com which holds info for bookshops all over the world - there seem to be copies in the US & Oz at present.... Shame I've just spent my 'Frog Money' for the moment on a 10CC 2" mains 1098 engine for my rebuild. Give it a go, as I was amazed what I could find in the way of out of... MORE
Paul I hope it is the head gasket and not the pistons :o( Good luck (fingers crossed) James "James Bilsland" 2604... MORE
Well thanks for all the useful advice regarding oil pressures. However it looks as though I blown the head gasket!! Engine will not start at all no matter what I do. I took the plugs out and they were soaking wet with.......well something, oil, water, petrol, I cant really tell. I've checked the compression and sadly the results are very diagnostic: cyl 1 180 psi cyl 2 140 psi cyl 3 140 psi cyl 4 170 psi Looks like gasket has blown between 2 & 3, and these are the plugs that are wet!! I've spoken to the Chap... MORE
